Perm hydrogen peroxide how much. How to make a fixer with liquid hydrogen peroxide. Some mistakes when perming hair. Necessary tools and materials. Fixation procedure

In order to do a high-quality perm yourself, you first need to understand what effects the hair is exposed to during this procedure. If you look at the cut straight hair, then we will see that it has the shape of a circle, and curly hair has the shape of an oval. What follows from this?

To curl straight hair, you need to change the shape of its section while simultaneously twisting along the axis. When you wind your hair with curlers or bobbins, it bends and changes its shape. In this case, the internal bonds of keratin (the structural protein of hair) are displaced, but not torn, and the curl is maintained until the next hair wash.

Before perm The keratin scales of the surface layer of hair are tightly closed. But under the influence of the chemical composition, the bonds inside the hair disintegrate, the protein fibers are damaged, the scales open, and at this moment the hair, when wound on bobbins of different configurations, can be given any shape. The breakdown of molecular bonds should ideally reach 30%, then the hair will become stringy and viscous.

The next step is to stabilize (fix) the new hair shape. To do this, use a weak solution of hydrogen peroxide. At this moment, the swelling of the hair stops, and it begins to return to its natural state: the previous connections inside the hair are restored, the keratin acquires its original strength and elasticity, and the scales close. This stage should be given great importance: if the fixation is done incorrectly, then the perm will turn out to be fragile. During perm hair experiences physical and chemical effects simultaneously. When wound around a bobbin, the hair is stretched, in addition, each layer of hair puts pressure on the underlying one.

Thus, two forces act on the hair - tension and pressure. As the temperature during curling increases, the hair's ability to resist changing shape decreases, so during the curling process an insulating cap is used, which retains the natural heat of the human body.

Each subsequent curl will look less beautiful than the previous one, since chemicals destroy the keratin of the hair, which is why a new substance is formed in the hair - meta-keratin, which reacts differently to the curling solution. There may come a time when your hair simply stops being curled and you will have to wait a while for it to grow back.

Hair curling tools.

If you decide to do perm at home, you will need a sufficient amount bobbins various shapes and diameter - from 50 to 80 pieces. They do not have metal parts and are secured with rubber bands. Also for perm can be used at home plastic curlers, which are also secured with an elastic band or clip. Peignoir(a special cape made of waterproof fabric) will help you keep your clothes in order, and protective gloves will protect your hands and nails from aggressive solution. Among other things, you will need:

  • plastic comb-tail,
  • curling compound and fixative,
  • insulating cap,
  • bowl and sponge for fixative,
  • drug for neutralization and stabilization,
  • biological fixative.

Please note that during curling, products from the same company/brand must be used. You can buy all this in a specialized store.

Perm compositions

Almost all curling lotions are based on organothio compounds and their derivatives - they make it possible to influence the shape of the hair and change it even at normal body temperature. A very important characteristic of the drug is its pH value. The higher it is, the more active the effect of the drug on the hair and the greater the likelihood of complete destruction of bonds and dissolution of hair keratin. What curling compounds are used today?

Alkaline permanent (from Latin permaneo - I remain, I continue) is used for curling healthy and natural hair. The disadvantage of alkaline permanent is that it emits harmful hydrogen sulfide vapors, which can cause various side effects- headache, malaise, dermatitis (skin inflammation).

Acid-balanced permanent used for naturally weak, tired, heavily colored hair. This composition does not contain strong alkalis and is less harmful. Its main component is glyceryl monothioglycolate. This composition begins to act only after it is mixed with the activator (it is included in the kit, both liquids must be mixed before use, since the finished mixture cannot be stored), and a chemical reaction occurs with a large release of heat, and the composition warms up to 40 degrees C. The peculiarity of the acid composition is that due to the low swelling of the hair, the hairstyle is less afraid of moisture and weather influences, and looks more natural. The disadvantage is that the product is less stable and the curl does not last very long.

Soft alkaline permanent - a gentle solution, when used, the hair also receives a protein course of treatment, due to which the hair structure improves and the curl becomes more durable. Has no smell. Disadvantage: It often causes allergies.

Gel-like product for permanent - used for curling the roots of short hair, for example, curling the temporal zones in men's hair short haircuts. To do this, use a comb, not bobbins.

Foam permanent - the most harmless preparation for hair curling. It is so soft that the result is hair with volume and virtually no frizz. As mentioned above, great importance when perm is given fasteners which have oxidizing properties. Such preparations must contain hydrogen peroxide, but not more than 3%. Fixators perform the final operation in the hair curling procedure, ensure stabilization of the resulting curl, and return the internal structure of the hair to its previous state. Fixatives can be of the following type and consistency:

  • concentrated fixatives(they are diluted with water in a ratio of one to one, their packaging bears the inscription “1+1”),
  • non-concentrated fixative(ready to eat),
  • foam solution(it is foamed with a sponge and applied to the hair, but it must be remembered that in this case it is the foam that “works”)
  • non-foam solution(it is applied from the spout of the bottle separately to each bobbin).

Perm stages

Ideally, “chemistry” is best done in a hairdressing salon experienced craftsman, but if you want to perm yourself, then strictly follow the instructions. First of all, you need to carefully examine the scalp and find out if there are any inflammations, scratches or abrasions on the scalp. If so, then with perm You should wait until the skin heals. Perm should be performed in the following sequence:

  1. Wash your hair with shampoo, squeeze out the moisture and dry with a towel.
  2. Determine the method of applying the chemical to the hair.
  3. Curl your hair into bobbins.
  4. Soak your hair with the chemical composition.
  5. Put on an insulating cap (option: cover your head with polyethylene, wrap it in a towel).
  6. Record the start time of exposure on the clock.
  7. Check the quality of the curl.
  8. Rinse off the drug, without removing the bobbins, with running warm water for 5-7 minutes.
  9. Apply the fixative for the first time for 5-8 minutes.
  10. Remove the bobbins.
  11. Apply the fixative a second time for 5 minutes.
  12. Rinse the fixative with running water and squeeze out the water.
  13. Rinse your hair with an acidic solution to neutralize the fixer.
  14. Dry your hair with a towel.
  15. Apply a medicinal product to restore hair structure.

When performing these procedures, there are several important points that you should definitely pay attention to and in no case neglect them.

Determining the condition of hair and scalp before curling

As mentioned above, if there is any damage to the skin on the head, perm better to reschedule. You also need to check if you have allergic reaction for drugs. It appears most quickly on the thin, delicate skin behind the ear. To check, you need to apply the composition with a cotton swab on the skin and after 10-15 minutes it will be clear whether there is an allergy or not (redness, rash, itching may appear).

You need to be especially careful with blonde (bleached) hair. If they do not break after being immersed in curling lotion, but lose their original appearance, the composition must be diluted with water in a ratio of one to one.

Choosing a curling composition

It is very important to assess the condition of the hair and make right choice appropriate drug, since the degree of effect of different drugs differs from each other. First of all, we need to determine hair structure .

Let us remind you that hair can be soft, medium, or hard.

How to determine this?

If your hair feels soft and limp to the touch, it means you have soft hair, if it is coarse and thick, it means it’s tough, and if it’s neither one nor the other, it means your hair is normal. Then it is determined hair quality - thin, thick or normal. As a rule, hair structure and its quality are closely interrelated. If your hair is soft, it means it is thin. Blondes are more likely to have this type of hair, while brunettes are more likely to have thick, thick hair. In addition, it is very important type of previous hair treatment - dyed, bleached, with permanent residue, untreated. The fact is that the previous method of processing hair increases its porosity; it can also increase under the influence of sunlight, salt water, and hot air. In these cases, it is necessary to select the optimal chemical composition and a means of protection, and in case of severe damage to the hair structure, it is better to carry out preliminary treatment. There are several permanent rules for damaged hair:

  • when curling the roots that have grown after the perm, you should try not to apply the composition to previously curled hair;
  • for heavily bleached hair and a large percentage of highlighted (partially colored) strands, hair protection products must be used to even out the structure of colored and split hair and ensures uniformity perm. Keep in mind that every company that produces formulations for perm, usually offers several types of drugs:
  • for healthy, previously untreated, difficult-to-treat hair,
  • for normal hair,
  • for porous hair that has previously been exposed to oxidizing agents,
  • for blond and highlighted hair.

Having chosen a composition, you must strictly adhere to the instructions for use, since there may be differences not only between drugs from different companies, but also between the next generation of the composition from the same company.

Hair washing

There is a rule: perm Performed only on clean hair! Therefore, before curling, you must wash them, regardless of the last time you did this. This will slightly open the scales, which will speed up the penetration of the curling composition into the hair. The hair is washed once, and the scalp does not need to be massaged in order to preserve the fat layer on it, which will protect it from excessive exposure to acids and alkalis. After drying your hair with a towel, comb it, but you should not use a hair brush either before or after washing, so as not to damage the cuticle (the top layer of hair).

Curling hair with bobbins

Depending on the hair type, bobbins are chosen. If the hair is hard and elastic, then it is wound in thin strands on large bobbins. Medium-bodied hair is best curled with medium-sized curlers. Thin hair is wound into small bobbins, separating very thin strands. In this case, the strands must be separated with zigzag partings so that clear parting lines do not form, and the bobbins must be placed in a checkerboard pattern. It must be taken into account that the thickness and width of the strand must correspond to the thickness and length of the bobbin. The process of winding strands of hair onto a bobbin is as follows: the strands are separated from each other with a comb-tail, combed out, pulled perpendicular to the head and wound onto the bobbins. Make sure that the ends of the strands are carefully twisted and do not bristle or stand out from the general mass. The direction of hair curling depends on:

  1. on the direction of hair growth (if this is not taken into account, the hair can be broken at the root),
  2. from the future hairstyle (it is better to place the bobbins in the direction in which the hair will lie in the future),
  3. from a haircut, which can be emphasized using curlers of different diameters.

The angle of tension of the strand can be different: the higher the strand is moved relative to its base, the more magnificent it will be later. If volume at the roots is not required, then the bobbin is placed as low as possible to the base of the strand. The securing elastic should not be tight, pressed into the hair or located close to the roots, so that there are no creases that can lead to hair breakage. The elastic band can be at the top of the curler or placed crosswise. You can also use hairpins to secure your hair - wooden or plastic.

Hair curling methods

Direct method. The hair is first moistened with the composition and then curled: first from the lower part of the back of the head, since this is the coldest zone and the most growth grows there. healthy hair. To get an even curl, you need to curl your hair very quickly. They are pre-wetted in the composition, then, after winding, they are impregnated with it two more times. Indirect method. Wet hair is rolled into curlers and then moistened with a curling solution, and as it dries, it is moistened with a spray bottle. Winding is done in any sequence. This method is most preferable, since wet hair absorbs the solution faster and better retains its original structure. Mixed method. It is used for hair longer than 20 cm. Before curling, only the ends of the hair should be moistened with the composition, retreating 2/3 from the roots. In this way, the bobbins are wound around the entire head, and then all the hair is wetted. According to the way the bobbins are placed on the head, the curl is divided into horizontal and vertical. At horizontal way the hair is wound onto a bobbin located horizontally in relation to the base of the strand, from the end of the strand to its base. The disadvantage of this method is that a high-quality curl is obtained only on the first revolutions of the bobbin, then it weakens due to the increase in the diameter of the bobbin with each revolution. At vertical way the hair is wound in the reverse order - from the roots of the hair to its ends - and the bobbin is located vertically on the head. The main advantage of this type of curling is that the curl is uniform along the entire length of the strand. But at the same time, the hair does not come into contact with the head and there is not always enough internal heat for the curling process. One more note: if the hair has been permed several times and the ends of the hair are completely lifeless, then you can wrap the ends of the hair in paper. In this case, the ends will not suffer so much.

Applying the curling compound

When all the hair is twisted into bobbins, the composition is applied to each bobbin from above and below with a brush. This must be done quickly and evenly. Cannot be applied very a large number of composition immediately, since the upper layers of the hair, having absorbed too much moisture, will swell and will not allow the composition to pass into the lower layers, which will remain uncurled; in addition, the composition may begin to drain, which is not always pleasant. The first time you need to apply the composition very sparingly. The second time you can apply a little more. And the third time it is applied until the liquid stops being absorbed. In this case, you cannot save the composition or fixative, since the hair must be soaked very well. Before applying the composition, the scalp along the hairline should be lubricated. protective cream, and tie a rolled-up napkin around your head. After impregnation of the hair with the composition, the tourniquet is removed. After the hair is evenly moistened, a warming cap is very carefully placed on the head, being careful not to move the bobbins. To preserve heat, the cap must be tightly secured, otherwise the curling process will be lengthened.

Exposure time

The holding time is always individual, on average from 10 to 30 minutes, as it depends on the structure of the hair and the desire to have a curl of one or another elasticity. To determine it, it is necessary to untwist the strands in different parts of the head during the curling process. (It's important to remember to twist the strands back!) A sign of a good curl is a bouncy and moist curl. After rinsing and fixing, the degree of curl in the hair will increase slightly, and if the exposure time is too short, the curl will not have time to form completely and will be short-lived; if exposed to the curling composition for too long, the hair can be severely damaged.

Rinse

Without removing the bobbins, you need to rinse your hair very thoroughly in the shower. Rinse time depends on hair length. So hair up to 10 cm in length is washed for at least 1 minute, 10-20 cm - 2 minutes or more, and hair longer than 20 cm must be washed for at least 3 minutes.

Fixation

Bottom line perm depends on proper fixation, which restores the damaged hair structure. If the fixation is done superficially, the molecular bonds of the hair will remain partially split and the hair will be inelastic. After thoroughly washing your hair and patting it with a towel, apply the fixative.

The holding time is determined according to the following table:

After applying the fixative and the required holding time, the bobbins are carefully removed, trying not to pull back the curl. Then the fixative is applied again. After re-fixation, the hair is thoroughly washed and treated with a preparation to neutralize and stabilize.

At the final stage, a biological fixative is applied, which instantly strengthens the hair keratin, makes the hair elastic, and affects the duration of preservation. perm and elasticity of curls. After thoroughly washing your hair after fixing, you need to blot it with a towel and apply the product evenly to it. After 3 minutes, the hair is thoroughly washed again. After this, you can use a rinse balm, which will restore the natural acid pH of the hair and scalp and make combing easier.

Hair care after perm

It takes at least 48 hours for the hair keratin to strengthen. Therefore, it is advisable not to dry or blow-dry your hair during this time, or curl it with curlers. For hair care with perm there are rules:

  • You need to wash your hair only with special shampoos, and also use special hair balms with perm.
  • If your hair is very dry, you should carry out intensive treatment that will restore the hair structure: you can use medicinal products, masks for weakened hair. The course of treatment is at least 10 sessions.
  • After every 3-4 hair washes, it is advisable to apply medicinal preparations, and for long hair, a preparation for the ends of the hair is necessary, because they will become drier after curling.
  • In order for the “chemistry” to last as long as possible, you should not pull your hair while it is wet or twist it with a towel. You can comb them only with a sparse comb, and immediately shape them with your hands. Don't go to bed with a wet head.
  • It is necessary to protect hair from exposure to direct sunlight, salt and cold water, and in the summer protect them with special preparations with ultraviolet protection.
  • Laying is done in a more gentle way. It is important not to overdry your hair or damage it with backcombing. For styling you should use a nourishing foam balm.

And after all these manipulations, you can finally enjoy the result. The efforts of the home hairdresser will not be in vain: with perm morning styling becomes easier, because the hair has become more pliable and soft, holds its shape better and makes it possible to try many different hairstyles.

After rinsing your hair, you can begin fixing the curls in a twisted position. For this purpose, the master prepares a special composition - a fixer, which is hydrogen peroxide of 3-5% concentration. You need to add a certain amount of soap shampoo to the fixer for viscosity. The fixer is prepared immediately before applying it to the hair and used immediately after preparation.

Fixer composition:

1. For short hair:

– 2 tablets of 6% hydroperite,

– 20 ml warm water,

– 15 ml of shampoo.

2. For long hair:

– 4 tablets of 6% hydroperite,

– 40 ml warm water,

– 15 ml of shampoo.

In the absence of hydroperite, perhydrol of 30% concentration is used.

Pour into a non-metallic container:

– 40 ml warm water,

– 15 ml of shampoo,

– 8–10 ml of perhydrol 30% concentration.

The resulting solution should contain about 5% hydrogen peroxide.

Having again tied a towel twisted into a rope on the head to protect the face from the fixer, the latter is foamed with a foam sponge and each bobbin is carefully treated with it, generously moistening it with the solution. It is very important to evenly distribute the fixing composition between the bobbins. Since the component of the fixer - oxygen gas - evaporates very quickly, the fixing solution must be constantly foamed and moistened with it.

After applying approximately 1/3 of the entire solution and leaving the fixer on the hair for 5–10 minutes, carefully (so as not to unnecessarily stretch the curls) remove all the bobbins. Finally, apply the remaining fixer to the hair for another 5 minutes.

After this, rinse the hair thoroughly with water without shampoo.

When performing a perm at home, you will need an assistant - another pair of hands, as well as:
- bobbins or plastic curlers of different diameters (from 4 to 20 mm) with elastic bands - 50-80 pieces;
- plastic pins (if you are doing flat curls) and plastic clips for securing the strands;
- two non-metallic combs: with a sharp end and with rare teeth (metal combs cannot be used, since when the metal comes into contact with the chemical, the curling effect is reduced);
- two foam sponges: for applying the chemical composition and fixing agent;
- polyethylene insulating cap and peignoir and rubber gloves;
- a beaker for measuring the required volume of the chemical composition and fixing agent;
- two plastic, glass or porcelain cups or bowls for chemical composition and fixative;
- cotton wool and two towels;
- a jug for rinsing hair.

In addition, you will need special preparations and hair care products:
- chemical composition for curling;
- fixative (fixer): ready-made or prepared independently (for 75 ml of water, 8 hydropyrite tablets and 15 ml of shampoo or liquid soap);
- vinegar (6-9%) or citric acid for rinsing hair. It is better to use vinegar, as under the influence citric acid hair color may change;
- shampoo or liquid soap;
- a product for restoring hair structure or balm for application to hair after perm;
- Vaseline or any cream.

In order to choose the right perm product, you should accurately determine the quality of your hair (dry, oily, normal), since products have been developed for each hair type. special means. It is also necessary to check the skin's reaction to the perm product.

Checking the reaction of skin and hair to a perm product

Apply 1-2 drops of the drug to the skin behind the ear and leave for 7-10 minutes. If skin irritation (redness, burning, etc.) appears during this time, rinse off the composition with a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution and rinse the skin with water. In this case, you should abandon the perm or use another product that will not cause signs of skin irritation.

If the skin reaction to the chemical composition is normal, you should also check the hair reaction to this drug. Separate a small strand of hair at the back of your head and apply chemical agent. After 2-3 minutes, check the strength of the strand: if it breaks, then the concentration of the composition is too high for your hair type. Dilute the composition with water in a ratio of 1:0.5 or 1:1 and repeat the test on another strand of hair. If, as a result of the test, the hair becomes brittle and a gray coating appears on it, then a perm should not be done and a course of hair treatment should be carried out.

Before you start perming, you should examine your scalp. If you notice abrasions, scratches or any other painful phenomena on the skin, then perm is not recommended.

When performing a perm, you need to strictly follow the instructions for a particular product, as well as follow the sequence of operations of this process.

Perm technology

1. Wash your hair with shampoo, but do not massage the scalp so that the oil remains on it, which prevents the skin and hair from drying out. You can use it instead of shampoo laundry soap, since the alkali included in its composition well loosens the outer layer of hair. Dry your hair with a towel and comb gently with a wide-tooth comb.
After washing your hair, you can perform a preliminary haircut, taking into account the future shape of the hairstyle. At the same time, leave the hair length 2-3 cm longer than the intended hairstyle.

2. Curl your hair with bobbins, curlers or curlers: use the end of a comb to separate a thin strand with a horizontal parting, place it at a 90° angle to your head, comb and stretch. Place the bobbin under the ends of the hair and twist the hair onto it to the roots, bending the ends with the thumbs and forefingers of both hands in the direction of twisting, and with your middle fingers pressing the strand to the bobbin.

A few words about bobbins and hair curlers

Choose the diameter of bobbins or curlers depending on the shape of your future hairstyle.

For short hair, you should choose small diameter bobbins or curlers that will provide lift for hair up to 10cm long and great curls for slightly longer hair.

When winding hair with bobbins or curlers, remember that the width of the strands should not exceed their length, otherwise you will get uneven curls.

The hair needs to be wound onto the bobbins evenly, but without tightening it tightly, so that the chemical composition gets into the lower layers of the hair, and secured with an elastic band parallel or crosswise (in the shape of a “figure eight”).

Also try to ensure that the thickness of all wound strands is the same - about 5 mm.

Very short hair can be styled in flat curls using plastic clips.

Thus, strand by strand, wind all the hair onto the bobbins.

The direction of twisting depends on the direction of the strands in the hairstyle. The sequence of curling depends on the length of your hair:

  • if you have long hair, then it is recommended to curl it starting from the mid-occipital area from the crown down to the neck, and then from the crown to the face, placing the bobbins horizontally.
    At the same time, the hair of the temporolateral zones is curled. In these areas, bobbins should be placed in a checkerboard pattern;
  • at short hair start curling your hair from the parietal area from the face to the crown, and then from the mid-occipital area to the neck, placing the bobbins horizontally. The hair of the temporolateral zones is curled in the same way as the long hair, in a checkerboard pattern.

3. After curling your hair, lubricate the skin on your forehead and temples along the hairline with cream or Vaseline and tie it with a cotton band or napkin. Cover your clothes with a plastic negligee or waterproof cape, and put rubber gloves on your hands.

4. Using a beaker, measure the required amount of chemical composition (about 50 ml for short hair), pour it into a cup or bowl and begin quickly applying to curled hair. First, the composition should be applied to the occipital zone, then moving to the parietal and ending with the temporolateral zones.

5. Put a polyethylene cap with an insulating pad on your head (instead of an insulating pad, you can use an ordinary terry towel, screwing it onto the cap from above).

6. Leave the mixture on your hair for the required time. The holding time depends on the type of hair and its structure. To avoid hair burning or underexposure, follow the instructions for use of this drug.
15-20 minutes after applying the composition, you can conduct a test: remove the insulating cap, spin several bobbins on the parietal, infero-occipital and temporolateral areas. If curls are just beginning to appear, you should wait for the maximum time recommended by the instructions. The curl needs to be monitored at certain intervals.

7. Upon achieving the desired effect - the formation of elastic curls - thoroughly rinse the composition from your hair with warm water, without removing the bobbins from your head, and carefully pat your hair with a towel, removing excess moisture.

8. Proceed to apply the fixative. You can use a ready-made product or prepare a fixative yourself immediately before applying it to your hair. Beat the fixer until foam forms and apply half the amount to the hair with a second sponge, without removing the bobbins.

9. Leave the fixative on your hair for 7-10 minutes, then carefully remove the bobbins and apply the remaining fixative to your hair for another 5 minutes.

10. Rinse your hair with water and then rinse to neutralize the chemicals. This rinse is prepared from water and vinegar or citric acid. For short hair you will need about 2 liters of rinse solution, for long hair - 3-4 liters.

11. After rinsing, dry your hair with a towel and apply a product to restore hair structure or balm.

12. Style your hair with curlers (it is not recommended to use a hair dryer after perm).

Upon completion of the perm, all tools must be thoroughly washed. hot water with soap.

Types of perm. Perm options

1. In addition to the horizontal (described above) perm, there is also a vertical (or spiral) perm. Its characteristic feature is that the length of the hair does not affect the quality of the curl, unlike horizontal curling. Horizontal curling often gives good result only on short hair; on long hair, good curls are obtained only at the first turns of the bobbin, and closer to the roots, the curls are wound weaker.

With a vertical perm, the hair is wound onto bobbins, starting from the roots of the hair to the ends, and evenly distributed along the entire length of the bobbin. Bobbins for vertical curling have the shape of a stick (rod).

One way to perform a vertical curl is as follows: divide your hair into thin strands. Twist each strand along its axis, and then wind it onto the bobbin stick in a spiral, starting from the roots, and secure both ends with an elastic band.

2. If you have long hair, you can only curl the ends of your hair. To do this, divide your hair into square strands 5-6 cm wide and pass each strand through plastic curlers, divide it into three more strands, and wind each of them onto bobbins of a smaller diameter. Then secure all three bobbins together.

3. On regrown hair that has already been permed, you can perform root perm, in which the ends of the strands do not need to be treated with a chemical composition. To do this, only the regrown sections of hair are wound onto the bobbin, and the ends of the strands are released and twisted into polyethylene or foil. Next, curling is performed using conventional technology.

4. Very long hair can be wound with two bobbins to obtain uniform curls at the ends and roots. Wind the ends of the strands onto a large bobbin, then place a bobbin with a smaller diameter in the middle of the strand and wind the hair around both bobbins to the roots.

5. If you have curly, thin hair, treat only individual strands with the chemical composition to give your hair volume. To do this, put a rubber cap on your head with holes made in it, pull out individual strands (as when doing highlighting) and wind them onto large bobbins. With this method of curling, the holding time is minimal - 15-20 minutes.

6. You can also twist your hair into bobbins, separating them not with horizontal, but with oblique or zigzag partings. You can leave your bangs straight or, conversely, chemically treat them by doing a contrasting cut on the rest of your hair.

Some mistakes when perming hair

If your scalp becomes irritated, you most likely used too much of the chemical and the excess that was not absorbed into your hair ran off onto your scalp.

If your hair has become brittle, then perhaps you pulled it too hard when curling it, pulled it with elastic bands, exceeded the exposure time of the chemical composition, or did not apply the fixer quickly and thoroughly enough.

Discoloration of the hair can be caused by the use of metal tools or utensils, since the metal, reacting with the chemical composition, can leave a metallic residue on the hair and cause discoloration. Also, the reasons may be a higher concentration of fixer, exceeding the duration of exposure of the fixer on the hair, or insufficiently washed hair before the neutralization operation.

Hello, dear friends! The article talks about a homemade way to create a long-lasting perm. A couple of decades ago, it was possible to transform from someone with straight hair into a girl with curls only in a hairdressing salon, and only good master. Since then, hairdressing technology has made a big step forward: new methods, tools and materials for creating hairstyles have appeared, and it is no longer necessary to turn to the services of a hairdresser. It is enough to know how to do a perm at home - and you will be able to create curls in a convenient environment and at any time.

  • Vertical - suitable for long strands, performed using thin long curlers. It starts at the roots, then spirals down to the ends. On long curls This results in so-called spiral chemistry.
  • Horizontal is done on short and medium strands, the process is standard for conventional curling with curlers.
  • - needed thin hair without volume. By itself it does not give curls, but only makes the hair more voluminous.
  • American implies the creation large curls on long hair. This option uses large volume curlers.

What you need to create a perm at home

  • Permanent composition. This one is sold in specialized stores, produced for each type of hair, contains protective components, vitamins and oils (not like in the old days). The products differ in composition and other nuances, so it would be wise to get advice on choosing from a good hairdresser. And in any case, on a permanent basis for home use there must be a permission notice.
  • Latch. You can buy it or make it yourself (5 g water, 5 g shampoo, 5 g 3% hydrogen peroxide, for long strands the amount of ingredients can be doubled).
  • Curlers, bobbins. The main rule of choice is that it should be plastic or wooden products.

The shape of the chosen tool affects the shape of the curls. It is better to curl short strands with small-diameter bobbins, and large-diameter bobbins for long strands.

  • Comb (sparse teeth).
  • Foam sponges - for applying permanent and fixative.
  • Two containers for diluting compounds (not made of metal).
  • Two towels + shoulder cape.
  • Measuring container, cap, rubber gloves.
  • Mild shampoo with a caring effect.
  • Vaseline (can be replaced with thick cream).

You can also prepare vinegar to rinse your hair after washing.

How to do a perm step by step

  1. , do not use conditioner or conditioner.
  2. Dry without a hairdryer, comb.
  3. Put on a cape.
  4. Divide the hair into two parts vertically at the back of the head. Start working on the front one, secure the rest with a hairpin so that they don’t interfere.
  5. Separate the curl horizontally so that it stands at a right angle.
  6. Screw it onto the chosen base (curlers, bobbin). Don't twist the end.
  7. Do the same with all your hair.
  8. Lubricate your scalp. For this you have prepared Vaseline or cream.
  9. Dilute the composition for creating curls in a container according to the instructions provided for it.
  10. Lubricate the curled strands, use a sponge (and don't forget to wear gloves). Application pattern: back of the head-temple-parietal part.
  11. Put a cellophane cap on your head and wrap it in a towel.

Exposure time

Now you know how to do a perm at home step by step, the duration of which depends on the characteristics of your hair and the desired result.

  • Light curls natural effect- 10 minutes is enough.
  • Cool curls - 30 minutes.

Do not twist the strands too tightly, otherwise the chemical composition will not reach the lower layers. Make them equal to the width of the bobbins to ensure even curls.

  1. After the hair has been left in for a long time, remove the towel and cap.
  2. Without removing the curlers, rinse off the composition and pat your hair dry with a towel.
  3. Beat the fixer in a second container until foamy (with a sponge).
  4. Distribute through curled strands.
  5. After 10 minutes, remove the curlers and treat the curls again with fixer for 5 minutes.
  6. Rinse your hair in the shower, use a balm or a restorative mask.
  7. Rinse your hair with vinegar (one tablespoon per liter).

Good to know

As you can see, the whole process is not very complicated, but almost every stage has its own nuances.

Before using an aggressive drug to create curls, you need to do a test for skin allergies: apply it behind the ear, if after 7 minutes there is no reaction, you can make curls. If irritation or redness appears, look for an alternative, less harmful drug or give up the idea of ​​becoming curly. If there is an adverse reaction, the composition should be washed off with hydrogen peroxide, then with water. It's worth doing another test to find out how. chemical drug affects your hair. Separate a piece of hair, lubricate it with the product, wait two to three minutes: if it breaks, the product is too strong, dilute it with water 1:1 and repeat the test on another. If it becomes brittle again (a grayish coating is possible), first treat your hair, strengthen it, nourish it, and moisturize it. And only then do a perm.

After curling, use a mild shampoo (choose one special for artificially created curls).

After exposure to aggressive substances, hair should be pampered with nourishing or moisturizing masks.

It is better not to use a hairdryer. If necessary, then only in a gentle (cold) mode.

It is better to comb artificially created curls with a wooden comb with sparse large teeth.

Conclusion

Need to remember:

  • Select the volume of curlers or bobbins taking into account the length of your hair.
  • Choose a preparation for creating curls taking into account the type and characteristics of your hair, so that the harmful effects on it are minimal.
  • You cannot dye or lighten your hair after chemical exposure. If necessary, do this a couple of weeks before the procedure.
  • A high concentration of fixer, excessive exposure of the compositions, as well as the use of metal utensils for diluting them, can affect the color of the hair (discolor it).

This concludes the story about how to do a perm at home. Be sure to follow the instructions on the purchased products, take into account the recommendations of specialists and create perfect curls without leaving home.

See you in the next article!

Rinse with water

To ensure that there is no curling agent left on the hair, rinse the head with a copious stream of warm running water for 4-5 minutes. Considering that the hair is curled, the procedure should be performed very carefully.

Curl fixation

After rinsing your hair, you can begin fixing the curls in a twisted position. For this purpose, the master prepares a special composition - a fixer, which is hydrogen peroxide of 3-5% concentration. You need to add a certain amount of soap shampoo to the fixer for viscosity. The fixer is prepared immediately before applying it to the hair and used immediately after preparation.

Fixer composition:

1. For short hair:

2 tablets of 6% hydroperite,

20 ml warm water,

15 ml shampoo.

2. For long hair:

4 tablets of 6% hydroperite,

40 ml warm water,

15 ml shampoo.

In the absence of hydroperite, perhydrol of 30% concentration is used.

Pour into a non-metallic container:

40 ml warm water,

15 ml shampoo,

8-10 ml of perhydrol 30% concentration.

The resulting solution should contain about 5% hydrogen peroxide.

Having again tied a towel twisted into a rope on the head to protect the face from the fixer, the latter is foamed with a foam sponge and each bobbin is carefully treated with it, generously moistening it with the solution. It is very important to evenly distribute the fixing composition between the bobbins. Since the component of the fixer - oxygen gas - evaporates very quickly, the fixing solution must be constantly foamed and moistened with it.

After applying approximately 1/3 of the entire solution and leaving the fixer on the hair for 5-10 minutes, carefully (so as not to unnecessarily stretch the curls) remove all the bobbins. Finally, apply the remaining fixer to the hair for another 5 minutes.

After this, rinse the hair thoroughly with water without shampoo.

Neutralization

The perm composition, whose pH is 8.5-9.5, acts on the hair like an alkali. If you leave a small amount of it on your hair, it will gradually destroy it. Rinsing your hair with water will not completely remove the curling compound. Therefore, the next important hair treatment operation during perm is neutralization with a weak solution of acetic or citric acid.

As is known, alkali is characterized by an excess of OH ions in a solution. The greater their relative amount, the higher the concentration of alkali, i.e., with a neutral reaction of the medium, the pH of the solution is 7 and the relative amount of hydrogen ions H + and hydroxyl OH - is approximately the same. Some excess of one or other ions is inevitable, but in hairdressing practice there is no need to accurately determine it. An increase in the alkalinity of the solution begins with an increase in pH, i.e., when it begins to exceed 7. The composition for perm is a low concentration alkali with a pH of approximately 9. Acidic solutions, which include, in particular, citric or acetic acids, characterized by a predominant amount of hydrogen ions H +. The more of them in the solution, the lower the pH of the environment, i.e., an increase in the number of hydrogen ions entails a decrease in the pH of the environment, starting from 7.

What happens in the solution during neutralization? In solutions of any liquids in which water is present, continuous decomposition and combination of its molecules occurs.

One water molecule breaks down into one hydrogen ion H + and one hydroxyl ion OH -, which, when combined, again form a water molecule. If the reaction of the environment is neutral, i.e. There is an equal amount of both ions in the solution, and a continuous process of decomposition and reunification of water molecules occurs. If OH ions predominate, some of them do not participate in the process of water formation due to the lack of the required amount of H + ions. By adding an acid in which hydrogen ions predominate to an alkaline medium, the following picture can be observed: as the number of hydrogen ions increases, the number of hydroxyl ions will correspondingly decrease, which, when meeting each other, will form water. Thus, as soon as there is one hydrogen ion for each free hydroxyl ion, the reaction of the medium will become neutral. If there are slightly more hydrogen ions, the reaction of the medium will be slightly acidic. In hairdressing practice, due to the inability to accurately control the pH of the medium before and after neutralization, it is necessary to use compositions that approximately ensure complete neutralization of alkalis. Typically, a weakly acidic solution of acetic or citric acid is used for this.

To obtain a composition of such a weak concentration, you can take 2.5 g of citric acid and dissolve it in 1 liter of warm water. To better neutralize alkali residues on the hair, it is necessary to rinse it well with the prepared composition. Rinsing alone is not enough - the alkali remains on some areas of the hair. The operation must be repeated several times. Hair care. - M.: LLC TD "Publishing House World of Books", 2009.

After neutralization, the hair is wrung out, dried with a towel and curled with curlers.

When perming hair that has been bleached and significantly loosened by hydrogen peroxide, you need to increase the amount of water in the neutralization solution to 2 liters, leaving the amount of acid 2.5 g unchanged, or, conversely, halve the content of citric acid without changing the amount of water.