Soap has long been a mandatory hygiene item and remains so to this day. However, all cosmetic products are being improved in pursuit of the capricious buyer and manufacturers are looking for more and more “competitive advantages”. At one time, “balanced pH” became such a marketing trick. Now pH 5.5 is almost a mandatory option for every self-respecting soap. Let's look at exactly how the acidity level of a cleanser affects the skin.

Marcionini acid mantle

What is this: On the surface of the skin there is a hydrolipid film, an acid mantle, which is the first skin barrier. This film is called the Marchionini mantle. Marchionini's mantle contains lactic acid, various amino acids that are excreted by the sweat and sebaceous glands, free fatty acids, pyrrolidonic acid, etc. All this gives a natural “acidic” skin reaction (I remind you that in chemistry a pH below 7.0 is considered acidic).

Functional: The skin and acid mantle are interested in attaching only those bacteria that are beneficial and protect the “host” from pathogens. The acidic environment strengthens the “good” bacteria and prevents the bad ones from developing, which is how the skin microflora is formed. The main function of the mantle is to protect the skin from bacterial and fungal infections and provide protection against alkaline substances and microorganisms. An intact acid mantle supports the formation and maturation of epidermal lipids, and as a result, the “wall” remains unbreakable.

This figure represents the acidity value of the skin of a certain “average person”. Marchionini determined the pH of the skin of a healthy person to be from 3.0 to 5.0. Later, the famous Blank clarified that the natural pH of the skin is still slightly higher - 4.2 to 5.6. It is now believed that normal skin pH is in the range of 5.0–6.0. Manufacturers of cosmetics take this point into account: almost all mass-market products, including face creams, are in this range. And the number “5.5” itself became popular thanks to marketers from Johnson & Johnson (who care about you and your health).

A pH of 5.5 is also called “balanced.” Strictly speaking, this is illiterate. In fact, any cleansing cosmetic product has a balanced pH. If the pH formula is not balanced, the product will simply be spoiled. At the same time, the pH can be absolutely anything, there are professional peelings with an acidity level of 2.0, and there are natural soaps with 8.0, and they are all balanced.

Why is alkalization dangerous? When using products with a high pH, ​​the components that make the mantle acidic are washed out. The skin will, of course, restore its losses, but this will take time. Oily skin will recover in 3 hours, dry skin will take up to 14 hours, and it will be especially difficult for it, because in 14 hours you can wash your face at least once more, i.e. the “vicious circle” cannot be broken, the skin never fully recovers. As a result, the skin will begin to colonize with harmful microorganisms, and you will get an inflammatory reaction. Optimal conditions for most harmful microorganisms are a pH level of about 7.0, and acne bacteria develop when the skin pH just begins to exceed 5.5.

The fuss and hype around pH has given rise to a lot of very persistent myths that wander from blog to blog and from article to article. At first glance, the information looks plausible: do not wash your face with bar soap, oily skin needs to be scrubbed more vigorously, and the main thing is that the label has that same 5.5 indicator. In reality, everything is somewhat more complicated.

Myth No. 1. Soap dries out the skin.

• Natural soap- solid product, a mixture of higher fatty acids and glycerol. Composed of fatty acids vegetable oils and animal fats. The production of soap is based on the saponification reaction, which results in the formation of alkali metal salts and alcohols. Even if the soap leaves a pleasant oily film, the pH of such soap will always be alkaline - from 9–11.
• Syndet soap- a solid product, a mixture of synthetic detergents and soaps (no more than 10%), which are much less drying to the skin.

If on the label at the beginning of the list of components we see a surfactant like lauryl sulfate or Sodium Lauroyl Isethionate, this is a syndet, most likely with a neutral pH. Yes, yes, that same aggressive lauryl sulfate in cleansers has an acidity index of 5.5! But if at the top of the list is something like Sodium Palmate, then it is most likely a natural alkaline soap.

We are used to calling something bar soap, hence the confusion. But, as you can see, there is a difference, syndet can be brought to a neutral or slightly acidic pH (this is the majority of soaps on supermarket shelves), but with pieces “ self made"and other "black African" pH ranges from 10.5 to 11.0. So the impact on the acid mantle will be different.

Myth No. 2. Wash oily skin more strongly, do not wash dry skin at all.

U oily skin Indeed, the sebaceous glands are very active, which means that there is excess sebum, which many try to remove by all means. Natural soaps made from valuable oils, toners with astringents and alcohols, and much more are used.

The result is usually disastrous - dehydrated, sensitive, but still oily skin (in the T-zone), most often with acne. You already understand the reason: the acid mantle is disrupted and pathogenic microflora begins to grow. Oily skin with acne does not need to be further alkalized. Your choice is in the exact opposite direction - acidic care products. It’s not for nothing that products for problem skin often contain salicylic acid, the working pH range of which is about 3.5.

Dry skin also has an increased pH, because the sebaceous and sweat glands are not so active, which means there are not enough “acids” in the mantle. When caring for dry skin, it is also better to choose products with an acidic pH, but in the composition, look not for salicylic acid, but for glycolic or lactic acid, which, in addition to their exfoliating effect, moisturize.

Myth No. 3: pH 5.5 will protect skin from irritation

A very convenient myth. It would seem that everything is so simple, to track just one parameter. Alas, the irritating effect is obtained from a combination of many factors - the aggressiveness of surfactants, their combination, additional emollients in the formula, flavors and, finally, pH. Our skin is a very complex structure; in addition to affecting the acid mantle, cleansers also affect the lipids of the protective barrier and even proteins. So you shouldn’t religiously believe that “5.5” on the label will protect you from all troubles; you should take a closer look at the composition.

Today, most products on the market have a pH of 5.5-7.0, which is quite normal for healthy skin, but if you have acne or dry skin, it already has a high pH, ​​and a product with acids should definitely be your choice.

Tatiana Morrison

Photo istockphoto.com

When the pH balance is disturbed, the epidermis immediately makes its dissatisfaction known. How? The most different ways. The skin may begin to become inflamed and irritated over trifles, or even become overly sensitive. In the worst case scenario, there is a chance of acne. Direct connection between the acid-base environment of the skin and its appearance for you at least it means one thing: the line “normalizes the pH balance” on the packaging of a cleanser or cream is much more important than the tempting promises of marketers.

Now you know why you should care about those two strange letters - pH. If you often skipped chemistry, we’ll tell you: translated from English, this abbreviation stands for “potential hydrogen” and is used to denote the ratio of acid and alkali in any matter. The minimum value of the pH scale is 0 (acid predominates here), the maximum is 12 (respectively, alkali). For cosmetologists, the pH value indicates the condition of the epidermis.

The pH balance of human skin ranges from 3 to 7, and the specialist’s task is to bring these numbers closer to the gold standard, that is, 5.5, or at least keep them within the range of 5.2–5.7 units. If you constantly feel tightness and dryness, and the area around your eyes was already covered with a fine network of wrinkles at age 25, most likely your pH is dominated by alkali. The other extreme is increased acidity, when there is oily shine and pimples on the face, and skin sensitivity increases. Draw conclusions: if you find out the meaning of your acid-base balance and start taking care of your face in an appropriate way, even oily or dry skin can turn into normal.

1. Physiological Cleansing Gel, La Roche-Posay
2. Cellular Power Serum, La Prairie
3. Renewing Peel, Artistry

Test

Find your balance

Fortunately, it is easier to calm the skin than the nervous system. To understand how to do this, complete the task. Answer questions honestly and remember the results. After that, count which answers (A, B or C) there are more, and read how to return the pH to the optimal value.

1. What does your skin look like after cleansing?
A) Soft and smooth.
B) Tight and dry.
C) Still a little oily and not completely clean.

2. How many times a day do you moisturize your face?
A) Two. In the morning and in the evening.
B) One.
C) Not once.

3. Does it happen that your skin begins to react strangely to products that you have been using for a long time? We are talking about decorative cosmetics and caring cosmetics.
A) No, I didn’t notice this.
B) Sometimes something like this happens.
C) Yes. And lately she has been reacting violently to everything I offer her.

4. How often does the skin dry, peel, or turn red?
A) Never.
B) Sometimes.
C) Regularly.

5. Have you noticed that your skin looks worse in the morning than in the evening? After sleep, it is duller, and wrinkles appear deeper.
A) No.
B) Yes, I see this regularly.
C) In very rare cases.

6. Your skin has become too oily and inflamed every now and then.
A) No.
B) This happens periodically, but then everything returns to normal.
C) Yes.

7. Do you often experience redness and irritation?
A) No.
B) Only after using cosmetics.
C) Yes.

8. Does your skin look puffy and shiny?
A) Yes, almost always.
B) Rarely.
C) It is rather just shiny.

If option A is the leader among your answers, then your pH level...
... optimal
Your skin is worried better times: She is in a calm state and nothing bothers her. We hope it will always be this way. It is unlikely that your face will wrinkle or develop red spots in the near future. And this is not just a happy coincidence - we praise you for your success in moisturizing, exfoliating and using cosmetics that are right for you. Keep up the good work.

If option B is the top choice among your answers, then your pH level...
...too tall
This means that the skin has long been in need of additional hydration, it dries and suffers, and besides, by its nature it is prone to the premature appearance of wrinkles. The level of alkali, alas, is off the charts. Your epidermis is practically devoid of protective lipids: it really cannot withstand bacteria, UV rays, or harsh environmental influences. Think about whether it is correct, and most importantly, whether you cleanse and moisturize your skin often enough, and whether you use scrubs regularly.

If option C is the leading answer among your answers, then your pH level...
...too low
We dare to assume that you know a thing or two about oily skin and hypersensitivity. Inflammations on the face indicate an excess of acid in the protective mantle. You're probably over-cleansing your skin or overusing acid peels in an attempt to remove excess sebum. Forget about it and listen to WH's recommendations.

Without water

Believe it or not, something as harmless as water can disrupt the pH balance of the skin. According to Jeannette Graf, MD, assistant professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai School of Medicine, with constant exposure to water, the skin's lipid layer (one of the layers that holds beneficial nutrients) wears down. Thus, the epidermis with a high pH value loses its natural lubrication and becomes drier and tougher.

If the pH is low, the skin becomes extremely sensitive and oily: it begins to secrete sebum at an emergency rate to compensate for the lack of moisture. Try switching to cleansers that don't require water. They are easy to identify by their creamy texture. If you are unable to wake up until you wash your face with ice water, replace it with thermal water. It's better to stay away from tap water.

As for the body, train yourself to shower quickly. And be so kind as to shorten your bath time. Dermatologists also advise avoiding the shower one or two days a week. They mean it, yes. Cool water is the most beneficial for the body. At a minimum, it should not be hot - this way you will avoid dilation of blood vessels, opening of pores and loss of moisture. And think about installing a filter to reduce water hardness. It will block the path of minerals such as phosphorus and chlorine, which also affect the pH balance in a negative way.

Night cream

While you sleep, your skin cells work hard to repair the damage they suffered during the day. So help them! Even if you're dying to sleep, don't be lazy, apply night cream every evening. Choose a product with vitamin A - that is, retinol. It has long been known that this component has super properties: it smooths out wrinkles and shrinks pores, but in addition, it also helps the skin in the difficult task of restoring and maintaining optimal pH balance.

1. Moisturizing fluid for face Aquamilk, Lancaster
2. Refreshing cleanser 2 in 1, Weleda
3. Visible Difference Balancing Night Cream for Combination Skin,
Elizabeth Arden

Scrubs and gommages

Do you know why children's skin glows so much? Yes, because there are almost no keratinized cells on its surface. With each birthday celebrated, their number increases rapidly, while the amount of moisture in the skin, on the contrary, decreases. Your salvation from dead cells is peelings. It's simple: if you periodically dry out and peel (that is, your pH is high), you can experiment - use both abrasive and acidic scrubs. If the pH is below normal, switch to gommages - gentle exfoliating agents, and allow yourself something harsher once every two weeks, not more often.

Milk and tonic

Fanatical cleansing of the skin makes the sebaceous glands work twice as active. They can’t leave their face without a protective lipid layer. Most cleansers (especially after which the skin seems to squeak, it seems so clean) are acidic. A striking example is soap, forget about it. At your service are milk and oil-based emulsions (they work without water and remove fat-soluble contaminants). Remember about the tonic - it returns the pH balance of the skin from alkaline to slightly acidic, ideal for you.

Hyaluronic acid

Don’t go to a fortune teller: moisturizing is recommended for any skin type. And not only to get rid of tightness after a swimming pool or a long stay in an air-conditioned room. The more moisture in the skin, the better the epidermal cells are able to retain it. Classics of the genre - means with hyaluronic acid. This component itself is an excellent humidifier, but it also accumulates water in the right places. Is your face seriously dry? Give yourself a short course of intensive care - use products with added acids (for example, fruit). And this doesn't help? Add a drop of argan or some other oil to your night cream - this way you will quickly restore the protective layer of the epidermis, which resists moisture evaporation. Girls with oily skin, go in search of light gels or cream-gels - fortunately, there are plenty of such items on the cosmetics market today.

Restoring pH balance

If you meekly follow all our recommendations, and don’t turn a deaf ear to the words of cosmetologists, but there is still something wrong with your skin (either a pimple will pop out, or it will turn red somewhere), take a closer look at cosmetics that purposefully work to restore acidity. - alkaline balance. They usually contain the following words: “pH 5.5”, “balancing agent”, “restoring product”, “normalizing skin pH balance”.

1. Moisturizing soothing product Crème Dermo-Apaisante, Payot
2. Hydrating matte fluid Hydra Sparkling, Givenchy
3. Soothing lotion for restoring surface pH Balatone™,
ZO® Medical by Zein Obagi

Our expert:
Inna Semerkhanova. Dermatologist-cosmetologist, training manager of the Equilibrium training center

Skin microflora– beneficial microorganisms, our permanent “cohabitants” are perfectly adapted to their native environment and help maintain biological stability, cleanliness of the skin and protect it from pathogenic microorganisms. How does the protection system for our skin and the body as a whole work?

The microflora of healthy skin is an ecosystem that is quite resistant to external influences. Microflora of human skin is largely regulated by the acidity (pH) of the skin. Acidic pH is one of the main factors that make the skin “unattractive” to bacteria. Typically, the skin temperature is slightly lower than normal body temperature, its surface is slightly acidic and predominantly dry, while for most bacteria a neutral pH, a temperature of 33 ° C and high humidity are optimal for reproduction.

In general, skin antimicrobial protection includes mechanical rigidity (stability) of the stratum corneum of the epidermis, reduced moisture content, lipids of the stratum corneum, lysozyme, pH 5. The fact that the normal pH of the skin surface plays a beneficial role in relation to local immunity is now considered indisputable.

Acidity and skin microflora

A common theory is that skin acidity(pH) plays an important role in its antimicrobial protection. The normal condition of the skin is acidic, it is maintained by the secretion of sweat glands, sebum and the breakdown of fatty acids by epidermal staphylococcus. Therefore, it is believed that resident skin microflora (i.e. normal flora) also partially maintains the acidic pH of the skin.

Normal (resident) flora grows better at an acidic pH, while pathogenic bacteria, such as Staphylococcus aureus, prefer a neutral pH. Thus, a more acidic pH protects the skin from colonization by non-resident and pathogenic bacteria.

Acids produced by resident microflora (normoflora) are also part of local defense mechanisms and depend on normal microflora. For example, Staphylococcus epidermidis, Propionibacterium acnes, Pityrosporum ovale, Corynebacteria produce specific lipase and esterase enzymes that break down triglycerides into free fatty acids - this leads to a decrease in the pH of the skin surface and thus creates unfavorable conditions for pathogenic microorganisms with which a person comes into daily contact.

Normal flora also acts as a barrier and serves to prevent invasion and growth of pathogenic bacteria. Healthy growth and retention of resident flora effectively prevents the colonization of the skin by transient bacteria, including - Escherichia coli(Escherichia coli), Pseudomonas, Staphylococcus aureus(Stephylococcus aureus), Сandida albicans.

Us and “them”: a map of skin microflora

The microflora of the skin of the face is different from, say, the flora of the hands or other parts of the body. The composition of bacterial strains on the skin varies depending on the skin area (table). The table below shows a kind of map of the microflora of human skin, where you can see that each part of the body is characterized by a certain type of microorganisms.

Region	Bacterium
Upper body	Staphylococcus epidermidis
Face (bridge of the nose)	Staphylococcus hominis
Head	Staphylococcus capitis
Forehead/inner elbow	Staphylococcus saccharolyticus
Crotch	Staphylococcus saprophyticus
Forearms	Micrococcus luteus
Armpit, conjunctiva	Corynebacterium xerosis
Axillary folds	Corynebacterium minutissimum
Axillary folds	Corynebacterium jeikeium
Sebaceous glands, forehead	Propionibacterium acnes
Sebaceous glands, forehead, armpits	Propionibacterium granulosum
Armpit	Propionibacterium avidum
Armpit	Brevibacterium spp.
Forearm	Dermabacter spp.
Dry areas	Acinetobacter spp.
Surface of sebaceous gland follicles	Pityrosporum spp.

A high density of bacteria is found in areas of the skin with a less acidic pH: the genitals, anus, folds under the mammary glands, armpits. Relatively dry and exposed areas of skin have a lower pH and lower density of microorganisms. For example, the inner surface of the forearms has a bacterial population (in colony forming units) of 102-103 cfe/cm2 - compared to 105 cfe/cm2 in the armpit area.

Artificial occlusion (wrapping) of the forearm leads to a significant change in skin pH, composition and density of bacterial strains. For example, in one study, before occlusion, the skin pH was 4.38, and after 5 days of occlusion it increased to 7.05. Similarly, in the case where the bacterial count before occlusion was 1.8 x 102 cfu/cm2, it increased to 4.5 x 106 cm2 after 5 days of occlusion. It follows that a moist skin environment promotes bacterial growth and colonization. In skin folds, where the pH is slightly higher, there is an increased density of bacteria.

Normal skin microflora: acidic pH – stability

As already mentioned, the acidity of the skin surface affects the growth of both permanent and pathogenic microorganisms. The presence of an acidic membrane is one of the key factors in skin immunity. On the contrary, pH fluctuations disrupt the quantitative and qualitative composition of normal flora and can become a predisposing factor for the development of dermatological pathologies.

• The acidic pH of the skin (pH 4.0-4.5) helps the resident bacterial flora to remain in a certain physiological zone in stable numbers and prevents the colonization of pathogenic microorganisms.
• Alkaline pH (8.9), on the contrary, promotes the dispersion of permanent microflora throughout the skin.
• A less acidic pH promotes the growth of microorganisms, especially gram-negative and propionic bacteria.
• High pH in the axillary folds promotes accelerated bacterial growth, which is associated with the development of an unpleasant odor.
• Acidic pH increases the activity of antibacterial lipids and peptides. The acidic pH of the skin facilitates the production of natural antimicrobial peptides, promotes and regulates keratinization and desquamation.
• The normal microflora of human skin is also a source of antibacterial components (proteins, lipids, peptides). For example, bacteriocins are a group of specific proteins that are produced by bacteria of the genus Staphylococcus epidermidis: bacteriocin is partially active against other staphylococci, it is especially effective in inhibiting growth Staphylococcus aureus.

Relationship between pH and microflora and skin pathologies

Changes in skin pH and other organic factors play a role in the pathogenesis of a number of skin pathologies, in their prevention and treatment.

Acne

Propionibacterium acnes, which are associated with acne, is a classic example of how a slight increase in skin pH facilitates the transition of a resident bacterium to a pathogenic one. At normal pH 5.5 growth Propionibacterium acnes is minimal, however, a slight shift to the alkaline side makes the environment more comfortable for these microorganisms, resulting in growth Propionibacterium acnes is rapidly intensifying.

Recent studies have shown the consequences of changes in skin pH in atopic dermatitis, especially impaired skin barrier function and increased colonization Staphylococcus aureus. The same thing happens with atopic eczema, and not only does growth increase Staphylococcus aureus, but also the production of exotoxin, which can induce the spread of eczema to other, more distant areas.

Candidiasis

A change in skin pH from acidic to alkaline is also a risk factor for the development of fungal infections (). An interesting study was in which a suspension was applied to the right and left forearm, the pH of which was previously changed to 6, 0 and 4.5 Candida albicans and occluded for 24 hours. It has been shown that more pronounced inflammatory phenomena occur at high pH. This proves that the pH level is associated with local immunity - the skin's ability to protect itself from infections. These data allow us to conclude that changes in skin acidity are a risk factor for the development of candidiasis (thrush).

Hygiene and care: in harmony with microflora

Height Brevibacterium epidermidis with whom they are associated bad smell body, can only be slowed down if the pH is reduced to 5.0 or lower. It is noteworthy that washing with tap water with a pH of about 8.0 can increase the acidity of the skin and keep it in this state for up to 6 hours. At the same time, taking a bath every day for several weeks or stopping washing for the same period of time did not lead to excessive growth pathogenic flora or to a significant imbalance in the composition of friendly bacteria.

The use of synthetic detergents with acidity similar to the skin surface resulted in an increase in skin surface pH for a short time, and these changes were limited to the superficial layers of the stratum corneum.

It is important to understand that regular use of alkaline cleansers (milk, tonic, especially soap), detergents that damage normal flora, and even “hard” alkaline water (pH 8.0) will adversely affect the natural pH of the skin and disrupt its microflora. To maintain normal microflora of the skin of the face and body, you need to use cosmetics and care products that do not disturb the normal pH of the skin.

Human skin contains water molecules, and therefore has its own acid-base balance (pH), which can change depending on the condition of the person’s skin. In other words, skin pH is the content of acid and alkali. “The pH of the skin is a kind of protection against harmful factors, which prevents the local immune system“,” explains Maria Sokolova, cosmetologist at the Essence beauty and health center.

“The most important function of the acid-base environment is protection against pathogenic flora: acidity ensures the coordinated functioning of skin cells, control of microflora on the surface of the skin, and prevents the proliferation of pathogenic flora. In addition, the pH level affects the rate of renewal of the stratum corneum,” adds Taisiya Petrova, cosmetologist-esthetician at the Aging Control aesthetic medicine clinic.

How to Determine pH Level

In order for the skin to maintain the necessary moisture balance and have high resistance to infections and other external irritants, the pH level must be 5.5. As soon as a shift occurs in one direction or another, skin problems begin. That is, dry skin is characterized by a balance from 3 to 5.5, which indicates a dominant acidic environment. Numbers from 5.7 to 6 are typical for oily skin, where an alkaline environment prevails. “It is quite simple to determine that the acid-base balance is changed: if the pH is low, this will be indicated by factors such as flaking of the skin, severe dryness and tightness, itching, redness, and there will also be an unpleasant or even painful reaction upon application decorative cosmetics. An elevated pH level is caused by oily shine, rashes and enlarged pores,” says Maria Sokolova.

There are many methods for determining skin pH, and the most common is the use of indicators. “Indicators are litmus papers of various colors, which change color depending on the acidity. The advantage of this method is that it is cheap, but you cannot count on accuracy. For more precise definition To determine the acidity of the skin, a pH meter is used - special equipment,” explains Victoria Zhovtun, cosmetologist and dermatologist at the Open Clinic.

“In beauty salons, to determine pH, portable non-invasive electronic testing devices with an indicator or glass electrode are used to determine the level of acidity in numerical terms - pH meters,” explains Natalia Frolova, dermatocosmetologist at the Golden Mandarin health and beauty center.

Why pH imbalance is bad and how to choose products

Deviations from normal indicators acidity can be the cause or consequence of many serious barrier dysfunctions. “For example, a violation of the synthesis of lipids, which take part in the regulation of the aquatic environment and acidity, leads to irritation of the skin, its dryness, and redness. And to the development of pathogenic microorganisms in them. These changes occur with psoriasis (here there is a deviation from the norm in the acidic direction), dermatitis and acne (here there is a deviation in the alkaline direction). For example, with acne, the pH of the skin is about 6 units,” says Christina Komissarova, cosmetologist at the Italian beauty salon Domenico Castello.

The prevalence of an alkaline environment in the skin leads to the proliferation of bacteria that can cause acne. When the balance decreases towards an acidic environment, the skin becomes not just dry, but very dry. Such dermis does not retain fluid well, suffers from dehydration, and becomes susceptible to microtrauma. Through these open “gates” bacteria enter the skin, which can cause irritation and skin diseases.

To avoid skin irritation, you should use cosmetics with the same pH level as the pH of your skin. However, in practice this is not always possible to apply. “Most often creams for home care have a pH of 5–9 and can be used without much concern. There are many peels and creams with a pH from 1 to 5, which can harm the skin if used incorrectly, so such products must be used under the supervision of a specialist. - Victoria Zhovtun warns. - When using toilet soap with an acidity level of 9–11, magnesium and calcium salts remain on the skin of the face. This causes peeling and the appearance of allergic reactions on the skin. The properties of the cosmetics used depend not only on the pH amount, but also on the content of beneficial components, the characteristics of the water and microbiological purity.”

"People with thin sensitive skin the synthesis of epidermal lipids is impaired and the skin has a very thin stratum corneum that cannot perform its protective functions, so if a cosmetic product has a pH below 4.5, it will cause irritation and redness. In this case, you need to use products with a pH of 5.5. But for those who have fat and problematic skin“To normalize the acid-base balance, you need to take drugs with a pH of 4.0-4.5, and not 5.5,” explains Natalia Frolova. - When choosing cosmetic products, it is not necessary to pay attention to the “pH balanced” label. It may not exist, but if the drug is certified, this goes without saying. Certified ones go on sale cosmetic preparations, which do not change the pH, otherwise they will cause significant harm.”

About the need to use tonics

The statement that cream cannot be applied without tonic, since it is a conductor for cosmetics, is quite controversial. “The only obstacle that cosmetics encounter on its way is the stratum corneum (this is solved by exfoliation) and the small distance between the skin cells themselves, which does not allow large molecules into it

“There are people who do well without toning and are absolutely satisfied with the condition of their skin, then you need to use serum with vitamin C - it has an acidic environment and will even out the pH level after washing,” adds Taisiya Petrova.

You can do without tonic. Initially, tonics were used to restore the pH of the skin after washing, since many cleansers contained surfactants, which are alkaline. Today, fairly gentle cleansers are produced, and many of them do not contain soap at all. Therefore, they practically do not disturb the acidity of the skin, and if they do, it is much softer and it is restored on its own quite quickly.

Not everyone has thought about the concept of “balanced pH”. However, this is exactly what we hear when advertising cosmetics and try to read it on a jar of cream. How does pH affect skin condition?

Many skin problems are associated with improper levels of acid-base balance. The skin loses its protective layer, which allows bacteria to easily penetrate its surface. The right choice of cosmetics and detergents will help restore pH balance and get rid of a number of dermatological diseases.

pH = 7 is considered neutral, but a predominantly acidic environment is formed on the surface of the body. The used pipeline water disrupts it due to chlorine impurities. To compensate, it is necessary to acidify the water or additionally use tonics and creams.

What is pH?

The abbreviation was introduced by the Danish scientist S.P. Sørensen more than 100 years ago. The literal translation means “weight of hydrogen.” Hydrogen is constantly split in the liquid, which makes it possible to trace the ratio of hydroxyl ions to hydrogen ions.

The concept of pH is associated with chemistry, which not everyone loves from school. For a better understanding, we can draw an analogy with temperature, which can be high (hot) and low (cold). Also, pH has two extremes - acid and alkali. The numerical value shows the ratio of these two indicators.

When mixing alkali and acid, “zeroing” occurs, as when hot and cold merge. A neutral substance cannot have an acidic or alkaline environment. To clarify the value, use a scale of 0-14. It will allow you to tell how alkaline or acidic a substance will be.

Water has a neutral pH value = 7. If the value is less than 7, then the environment is acidic and vice versa for alkaline liquids.

The lower the indicator, the greater the acidity; the higher the pH, the more alkaline the environment. Neighboring values ​​differ by a factor of 10. For example, pH=3 is 10 times more acidic than pH=4, 100 times more acidic than pH=5 (10x10). Strongly acidic and alkaline substances damage the skin.

The safest are substances with pH=3-9. Liquids outside this range cause irritation and chemical burns. This should be taken into account when choosing cosmetics.

Acid-base balance of the skin

Everyone knows how water stings the eyes - the culprit is pH. The alkaline liquid enters the mucous membrane and begins to change its acid-base balance. But this only happens in people with dry skin. If your skin type is oily, then feelings of discomfort may not appear. Therefore, using soap to wash your face is a real test: it destroys the protective layer that retains moisture.

A protective film of sweat, fats and acids is formed on the human skin - the mantle.

Acids (lactic, acetic, citric) are the result of the activity of beneficial bacteria. The film of them is called the acid mantle.

On the human body you can find different values ​​of acid-base balance - 3...7 (armpits 5.8-6.6, head and face 4.0-5.7, palms 6.2-6.5). Differences exist even on the face: forehead - 4-5.5, eyelids and corners of the eyes - 7, cheeks - 4.2-5.9.

Many people remember the advertisement about pH 5.5 and with great confidence consider this to be the ideal value for their skin. However, research a couple of years ago showed that the average skin pH = 4.7. If the value is 3-4.6, then the skin becomes dry, and at 5.8-7 - oily.

Skin reaction to pH changes

The acid mantle has a special function - it prevents the penetration of microbes, toxins and allergens into the body. The degree of protection will depend on the pH level. At normal value it is maximum. However, the increase in acidity that can occur with misuse peeling, makes the surface hypersensitive and increases the tendency to irritation.

An alkaline environment is ideal for “aggressors”. When the mantle is damaged, dermatitis, psoriasis, eczema, acne and skin aging develop.

On oily skin, the secretions of the sweat glands are oxidized, which shifts the balance to an alkaline environment, and allows microbes and infections to actively develop. For this reason, the correct pH balance (4.7-5.7) is important for skin health.

Balanced acidic pH provides skin elasticity and healthy looking. An alkaline environment leads to increased dryness or oiliness of the skin, which is the cause of most diseases on its surface.

An imbalanced acid-base balance causes problems. For acne and other diseases, you first need to understand the concept of pH. Of course, short-term deviations do not cause strong changes. But their regular occurrence leads to disruptions in transepidermal regulatory mechanisms, large loss of moisture and dryness.

Symptoms of acid-base imbalance

There are a number of signs that allow dermatologists to determine a violation of the normal pH of the skin:

• itching, feeling of tightness, dryness;
• frequent irritation and redness;
• excessive peeling;
• hypersensitivity to cosmetics;
• feeling of heaviness, greasiness after washing, using moisturizers.

A person can take tests, the questions in which are related to the description of the condition of the skin in different periods. The results will be summarized and will allow you to determine the direction of change in the acid-base balance.

Reasons for pH changes

The acid-base balance changes under the influence of various factors:

• prolonged exposure to water or sun;
• exposure to low and high temperatures;
• sudden change in temperature;
• skin diseases (acne, dermatitis, fungi) shift the balance to an alkaline environment, and psoriasis - to an acidic one;
• incorrect diet, if the body does not receive the required amount of fatty acids, the formation of an acid mantle is problematic;
• use of cosmetics (soap, decorative cosmetics) without taking into account acidity;
• increased sweating;
• smoking;
• use of antibacterial agents;
• taking vitamins and antioxidants.

Taking into account the symptoms of acidity disorders, they move on to an individual determination of the causes and prescribe treatment.

If skin problems occur, you should reconsider detergents. Manufacturers often indicate balance, but in practice discrepancies arise. You can use test strips at home to check.

Alkaline products

It is important for people with skin diseases to know which products have a high alkaline or acidic environment. This will provide them correct application, and will also prevent many problems.

Soap

As previously mentioned, the normal pH value for human skin is 4.7…5.7. Regular solid soap has a value of 9...11. This is very different from the normal value, many times, which does not allow creating comfortable conditions for the skin.

When buying soap, it is better to give preference to products with a pH as close as possible to 5, but not more than 6.5. They are completely safe for the skin, ensuring the preservation of the acid mantle.

Tap water contains chlorine, which changes the neutral value to the alkaline side pH = 8. This shows that one use of such water already disrupts the acid-base balance on the skin. It takes more than 6 hours to restore normal condition. It’s worth thinking about how many times a day you wash your hands! The feeling of tightness, itching and dryness is explained by the alkaline environment of the water used.

For washing, it is better to use mineral water with an acidic pH or herbal decoctions. If this is not possible, then acidify the water with apple cider vinegar or lemon juice.

Makeup removers

The mucous membrane of the eye and tears have a pH value of 7.4. For this reason, separate products with an alkaline pH value are used to remove makeup from the eyes. The well-known 5.5 is not recommended for use in such cases. More comfortable conditions will be created by products with pH = 7-7.6.

Depilatory products

All hair removal products are based on melting the hair shaft due to a highly alkaline environment with pH=12. When using them there is a high probability chemical burn and irritation. You should not keep the creams on for a long time, and after removing them, be sure to acidify the skin with gel.

Dyes and curling products

Curling products have an alkaline environment of 9-9.5, and hair dyes - 8.5-11. To neutralize, it is necessary to use conditioners with a pH of 3-5, and shampoos with a pH of 5-5.5.

Acidic products

Despite the acid balance of the skin, when choosing products you should carefully monitor the low pH value.

Tonics

A recent survey showed that many people do not understand the need to use toner. In fact, they are required to restore the pH of the skin after washing with water. The special composition has an indicator of 3-5. Tonic is very important in skin care and should not be ignored.

Peeling

Chemical peeling is done with a pH of 1.5-3. It was previously mentioned that a value of 3 is safe for the skin. Peeling should be applied according to the instructions. Be sure to use neutralizers with alkali.

Intimate hygiene products

These cosmetics are in direct contact with the mucous membrane and must provide the camphor value of the acid-base balance. The optimal pH value for such products is 3.8-4.2. Do not use shower gels and alkaline soaps.

Neutral means

Separately, there are products with a natural pH value for the skin. Let's take a closer look at them.

Creams

The acidity of creams lies in a wide range. Most of them are neutral - 5.5, which is confirmed by the inscription “balanced” on the label. This value is comfortable for healthy skin, which many people cannot boast of.

Enzyme creams must have a certain pH value. Each enzyme has a working range. Some are effective in acidic environments, while others are effective in alkaline environments.

Creams correct problems that have arisen not only with their composition, but also with their pH value:

• for dry skin, you need to choose alkaline creams with a pH of 5-6;
• for alkalized or oily skin, the value should be lower than normal (pH 3-5).

A properly selected cream will allow you to achieve balance and bring you closer to perfect skin. But don't overdo it. For example, highly alkaline creams with pH7 cause irritation.

Do not put your fingers into the jar of cream. Microorganisms quickly adapt there and change the pH of the product. The ideal option would be a cream in a tube. But if the product is not available in this form, then it is necessary to use a spatula, which is washed after each use.

Conditioners and shampoos

The scalp and hair have a pH of 5, the ideal value for them is 4-6. The most common shampoos are with a rating of 5-7, but there are more. They dry out the skin, which leads to irritation. The use of conditioners with a pH of more than 7 is pointless.

Alkaline products, including tap water, open up cuticles. If the reverse process does not occur, their closure, then the hair loses moisture, becomes lifeless and begins to split. The main task of the conditioner is to close the cuticles, soften and smooth. Tools with a value greater than 7 cannot cope with such a task. Healthy hair Shampoos and conditioners with acid balance(pH 4-6).

If hair care products are alkaline, then herbal infusions, aloe vera juice or apple cider vinegar are used to soften their effects.

Determination of pH of cosmetics

On quality products, the manufacturer always indicates the acid-base balance value. If they are missing, you can use the following:

• Ask the manufacturer. On official websites there is always data for feedback, through which a visitor can ask a question of interest. Good companies won't hide things like that important information. If the answer is vague or absent altogether, you need to think about the advisability of using the funds.
• pH testers and litmus papers. The strips are easy to use: dip into the product and determine the value by finding it on the color scale. Litmus tests can be used directly when purchasing the product in a store.

The appearance of the strips is different, but the principle of operation is the same. Their cost in pharmacies is a couple of hundred rubles. Today, electronic testers are sold on the market for 700-1000 rubles.

The components included in the composition allow you to approximately determine the pH of the product. Lactic acid, aloe vera, and lemon juice, wheat protein. Alkalinization occurs by adding suttocide, surfactants, triethanolamines and alkaline mineral water.

Restoring and maintaining pH

Once you know the pH of your skin and cosmetics, you can safely move on to restoring the acid-base balance. Following simple rules will return your skin to a healthy appearance:

• wash only with soft water: mineral or acidified;
• use mild cleansers;
• do not ignore toner after washing;
• you need to choose products taking into account your skin type;
• preference should be given natural remedies, since chemical components often upset the balance.

Acid load of food

Nutrition also affects the acid-base balance. Food creates additional stress. All foods release alkali or acid during metabolism. If the diet contains foods with amino acids in proteins that form sulfuric acid, or organic carbohydrates and fats, then the acid load is positive. If there is a lot of organic salts of magnesium, potassium and calcium in food, then an alkali is formed.

Acidic foods: meat, cheese, grains, eggs, yogurt and milk.

Nuts and legumes are neutral.

Alkaline foods: green leaves, roots, vegetables, fruits, berries.

For skin problems, dermatologists always recommend reviewing your diet and adding missing products.

Cosmetics have a great impact on the scalp and face. It can correct the balance or make the disorder worse. You should not trust the magical pH of 5.5, since each product has its own purpose and acidity value. It is necessary to consciously select cosmetics in order to eliminate the problems that arise. If you know the pH limit values, then do right choice won't be difficult. Knowing your skin type and the acidity level of the product, you can effectively maintain beauty and health, excluding skin damage.