“Fashion is the ability to dress in such a way as to walk down the street unnoticed.”
Hubert de Givenchy

The 20th century was revolutionary in the fashion industry; fashion has undergone tremendous changes. The main reason for such frequent and significant changes was the wars that shook humanity. Because of the wars, the place of women in society was rethought, which undoubtedly affected the fashion industry. The changes were so fast and crazy that this, of course, caused not only the chaos of fashion, but also changes in the canons of beauty of the female body. It was during this chaotic time that the great couturier Hubert de Givenchy was born, who brought the very classics into the fashion world, something that will be relevant even a century later.

The legendary couturier Hubert de Givenchy was born on February 21, 1927 in a family of aristocrats, Marquis Lucien Taffin de Givenchy and Beatrice Baden, which undoubtedly affected his upbringing and perception of life. Few people know, but Hubert's full name sounds like Count Hubert James Marcel Taffin de Givenchy.

Hubert's mother Beatrice Baden was the daughter of the owner of the Tapestry and Beauvais workshops and part-time talented painter Pierre-Adolphe Baden. Perhaps it was his grandfather who influenced Hubert's creative nature, since his grandfather loved collecting rare fabrics and works of art. At the age of 5, Hubert already knew by heart the names of all fabrics and could distinguish them by touch with his eyes closed. The boy constantly looked into the box in which his grandmother also kept scraps of fabric and sewed dresses from them. He laid out the scraps, trying to match them to his own taste. At such a young age, the boy already had his own vision of beauty.

Hubert's father's family came from Venice. In 1713, the eldest member of the family received the title of marquis. This undoubtedly influenced the status of the family and became a landmark event. This year also became important for art, because it was in Venice that Antonio Vivaldi wrote the three-act opera “Ottone in villa” (“Ottone in the Villa”), and in Paris since 1728, Vivaldi’s famous concert program “The Four Seasons” was constantly held " This undoubtedly left its mark on the musical development of the “Capital of the World”. Hubert also strived to create beauty and conquer Paris, but in the fashion industry.

At the age of 2, the boy lost his father, who died from complications during the flu, and the child was raised by his mother and grandmother. Hubert grew up in a cultural environment, surrounded by representatives of the bourgeoisie, this certainly had an influence on him. The boy's mother also made an invaluable contribution to her son's desire for beauty. She loved to dress beautifully and therefore collected fashion magazines, from which 8-year-old Hubert began to sew his first dresses for dolls, just like the models in the magazine, and although his mother wanted to see a lawyer in her son, she had to accept her son’s creative nature. Hubert finally confirmed his decision in 1937 at the World Exhibition in Paris, realizing that he wanted to connect his life with fashion. The teenager was delighted by the outfits from the most famous fashion houses in France, presented in the Elegance pavilion. A developed sense of beauty marked the beginning of his hobby, which later grew into his life’s work.

Young Hubert grew up, gradually turning into a charming guy. Tall, stately, handsome and yet very shy. American Vogue wrote about Hubert de Givenchy: “He is more beautiful than many movie stars.” Despite the fact that Hubert was a very attractive young man, he was in no hurry to become the life of the party, preferring to contemplate, rethink what was already established, and at the same time he was not a rebel, he admired the classics and simplicity of thought. Like no one else, he knew how to translate the simple into a chic look. Like many, Givenchy had his own idol. He was Cristobal Balenciaga, a talented couturier who loved to create chic outfits. For that time, he played like crazy, beating time itself! This is what attracted Hubert's calm nature.

He wanted to study with Balenciaga, but he was never allowed to study with the famous couturier. But Givenchy did not even think of giving up. The Jacques Fath Fashion House, where Hubert's creative path began, became his ticket to the world of high fashion. Givenchy wanted to develop his sketching technique, which is why he began attending the School of Fine Arts. Later he will present his first creations. Already in these works the talent and professionalism of the great couturier was visible. After completing her collaboration with Jacques Fath, Givenchy worked with Robert Piguet, Lucien Lelong, and after 4 years with Elsa Schiaparelli.

It was during his time working with Elsa that he acquired extensive connections in the fashion world and a reputation as a responsible and talented specialist. Schiaparelli trusted his talent, and so Hubert headed one of Elsa’s boutiques. Later, when the Schiaparelli salon closed, Hubert decided to create his own clothing collection, and he succeeded. Many celebrities lined up to purchase outfits from Hubert Givenchy. His creations were distinguished by elegance, simplicity of lines and extraordinary femininity. It may seem that the master's path has been smooth and easy, but it is not. The idea that came to him while working at the Schiaparelli salon to produce ready-made luxury dresses failed; the production system turned out to be ineffective. However, Hubert still managed to turn the vector of fashion towards “pret-a-porte” clothing. In 1968, Givenchy opened the Givenchy Nouvelle boutique, proving that luxury ready-to-wear was the future of the fashion industry.

In 1952, Hubert Givenchy, who was 25 years old at that time, opened his own fashion house. Thanks to his undeniable talent and perseverance, he becomes the youngest couturier with his own fashion house. The face of his fashion house was the fashion model Bettina Graziani, for whom the designer would later create his legendary white blouse with black frills and name it in honor of Bettina.

1953 becomes one of the most significant years in Hubert’s life. Meeting his idol, finding the muse and inspiration for all his future creations and the release of his first collection. But first things first! Givenchy finally meets his idol, Cristobal Balenciaga. From that moment the friendship of two great talented creators began.

They listen to each other's opinions, both admiring and criticizing each other's collections. Hubert fully supported Balenciaga when he decided to no longer allow the press into his shows. This was done so that the press did not influence buyers. Of course, the press rebelled after such a decision by the couturier, but after the death of Dior, Balenciaga became one of the most authoritative couturiers, and his opinion had to be taken into account. In turn, in gratitude for his support, Balenciaga takes Hubert under his wing.

The first collection, which was released in 1953, was a tremendous success. The very same blouse that Hubert created for Bettina became especially successful. The model wore it at the show, after which the model became famous, and every woman wanted the “Bettina” blouse in her wardrobe. Due to a lack of funds, Givenchy had to create its collection only from cotton. Then only 15 people came to the show, but despite this, the collection was successfully sold.

The meeting with his muse was unexpected for Hubert! Then unknown to anyone, Audrey Hepburn came to Givenchy's salon to buy a dress for her role in the film Sabrina. The great couturier's secretary said that Hepburn was expecting him. Hubert suggested that the same Hepburn, the Oscar-winning actress Katherine, was waiting for him. He was quite surprised when he saw a beautiful, fragile and embarrassed girl. Who was wearing sandals, a white T-shirt and plaid trousers with a straw hat on her head. The actress told the couturier that she wanted to dress with true Parisian chic. After all, she was offered a role in the film “Sabrina”! The couturier then did not pay much attention to the young girl and invited her to choose a dress to her taste. Audrey's chosen dress was a huge success in the film. However, Givenchy was not listed in the credits. Later, Hepburn would come to apologize to the couturier. Having calmed the girl down, Hubert will say that thanks to the film, his outfits are in even greater demand.

Givenchy even won an Oscar for his outfits in the film Sabrina. From that moment their long 39-year friendship began, until Audrey's death in 1993. Couturier was next to his muse until the last minutes of her life, when Audrey was dying of cancer. After the death of the actress, Givenchy ended his creative activity.

Every creator needs a muse, and his muse was no longer there. He had no one to create for, so two years later the couturier sold his fashion house and left the fashion world.

But still, his muse inspired him for new creations for many years. So in 1967, Audrey asked the couturier to create a perfume just for her. Then Givenchy invited the famous perfumer Francis Sabron, who created an exquisite fragrance called l’Interdit (“Forbidden”), which combined citrus, floral, fruit and berry notes. For three years only Hepburn used them. Only later did it go on sale. The designer's work in the perfume field began with these perfumes. New fragrances will appear later: Le De, Monsieur de Givenchy, Amarige, Xeryus, Ysatis, Organza. All the fragrances in the women's line were influenced by Audrey.

Aristocrat of style

Famous clients called him one hundred percent comme il faut and an aristocrat of spirit and style - and not only because he was born Count Hubert James Marcel Taffin de Givenchy. In his work, as in his personal life, he never went beyond the boundaries of refined nobility, which is almost impossible in the bustling world of fashion. Today, the master's grieving fans say that even this is a gesture in the spirit of Givenchy aristocracy. In his own words, said by the master a year ago on his 90th birthday, he “lived many, many happy years,” and on March 10, 17 days after his 91st birthday, he quietly fell asleep without alarming anyone. And so he remained with a smile on his lips forever in the ideal world of dreams, where back in 1995 his best creations also quietly disappeared.

Today, the couturier’s followers identify three truly aristocratic gestures, which, according to many, left world fashion forever with him.

Discreet chic

“Fashion is the ability to dress in such a way as to walk down the street unnoticed,” said the founder of the Givenchy Fashion House. - And perfume is a woman’s calling card. Without him she is anonymous." It was for his not flashy, but restrained chic, coming as if from within, that Hubert de Givenchy was so appreciated by Maria Callas, Marlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo, Grace Kelly, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Persian Shahbanu Farah Pahlavi, Baroness Pauline de Rothschild and actress Audrey Hepburn, his favorite . All these ladies began to be considered the most elegant in the world, largely thanks to who dressed them. For Audrey Hepburn, Givenchy created a little black dress and long silk gloves, which, after the release of the film Breakfast at Tiffany's, in which they “played,” began to be considered a symbol of refined luxury. Givenchy dressed his favorite Audrey until her death, and two years after she died, he himself left the fashion world. This was in 1995. Then he said that now he has no muse.

Public scope and personal modesty

Throughout his long life, Hubert de Givenchy never commented on his personal life. Everything that those around him managed to extract from him, that more than anyone else, besides the beautiful Audrey, he was inspired by Jacqueline Kennedy, later Jackie Onassis. The couturier loved these two women as an artist, and as a man he loved the only woman all his life. When she was still a very young, modest and poor girl, he took her to his Fashion House as a secretary. From then on, for many years, she was the main woman in his life, but her name is not mentioned even after his death.

Delicacy and ability to leave

Few of those who were surprised by Givenchy’s “change of image” in the late 90s knew that Hubert himself had not been within the walls of the Fashion House named after him for a year now. And he has nothing to do with the creation of tacky, almost kitschy models. In 1995, the brainchild of Givenchy - the Fashion House and brand - was bought by a large corporation and invited its creative directors and designers. And under the name, which until recently meant a sophisticated, sophisticated style, completely opposite and sometimes downright provocative images began to appear on the catwalk. Relatives said that Givenchy was very hurt by this. However, not once did he allow himself to comment on the quality of the work of his followers - even when the collection of his first successor was officially declared a failure.

“I think that when you sell your company, you no longer have the right to manage it, and that is quite difficult,” Hubert de Givenchy said at the time. He settled in the ancient castle of Chateau du Jonchet in Romilly-sur-Aigre near Paris and began working at an auction house, specializing in antiques, which he was very knowledgeable about. And only once, over a glass of young wine, he admitted to a Hollywood actress that the red carpet in Cannes had not seemed to him a standard of refined taste for a long time and no one now thinks “about the true needs of a woman.”

Around the same time, Count de Givenchy will answer British journalists’ question about the “decline of morals” in fashion like this: “C”est la vie. Fortunately, I lived many, many happy years. Beautiful fabrics, wonderful people, wonderful memories.”

Givenchy was born on February 21, 1927, and died on March 10, 2018. His ideal woman is Audrey Hepburn and Jacqueline Kennedy. Instead of announcing the date and place of the pompous farewell and funeral, the relatives of the deceased told the public that instead of flowers and wreaths, Hubert would prefer a donation to UNICEF.

Well, Hubert de Givenchy always knew how to leave gracefully.

Count Hubert Taffin de Givenchy died quietly in his sleep, in his own castle, just three weeks after his 91st birthday. A worthy end to a worthy - or rather, magnificent - life.

For Hubert, everything turned out exactly as he dreamed of since childhood. In fact, he, the son of aristocrats from the city of Beauvais in northern France, was destined for a career as a lawyer. But Givenchy himself knew from the age of 10 that he did not want to pore over papers in the office: his calling was to create beautiful things. It all started with a trip with my mother to Paris in the late 30s - then they went to an exhibition at the Petit Palais. The exhibition was dedicated to fashion, curated by Jeanne Lanvin herself, and the creations of Schiaparelli, Chanel and other couturiers were exhibited. What he saw impressed little Hubert so much that he firmly decided to connect his life with the fashion world. The boy's father died when he was only two years old, and the mother had no choice but to come to terms with and support her son. The teenager's idol was Cristobal Balenciaga - from his youth Hubert dreamed of meeting him.

Already at the age of 17, Givenchy moved to Paris, entered the prestigious Higher School of Fine Arts and quickly acquired the necessary connections in the fashion world. He interned with Jacques Fath and Robert Piguet, was friends with Christian Dior, and even at one time was the art director of Elsa Schiaparelli's boutique. In 1952, when he was only 25, Hubert decided to set out on his own. His first atelier on rue Alfred de Vigny was so tiny that dresses and blouses had to be ironed in the bathroom before the first show. However, the young fashion designer came up with a clever strategy - already in his debut collection he presented sets of interchangeable items that could easily be combined with each other. It was new and commercially viable. In March of the same year, international media, like American Life, began writing about him.

A year after the triumph, another dream of Hubert came true - during a trip to New York, he met with Balenciaga. Moreover, the acquaintance became fateful: the couturier, who was already in the status of a legend at that time, believed in the talent of the promising newcomer and took an active part in his fate. Over time, the Spaniard helped Givenchy move to a large studio on George V Street (Givenchy's flagship boutique is still located here). In addition, it is believed that the older friend seriously influenced the aesthetics of the Givenchy brand - in particular, he instilled in the young designer a love for rounded silhouettes and clearly tailored cuts. “I am a believer, and I have two idols - Balenciaga and the Lord God,” Hubert would later say.

Another extremely important person for Givenchy was Audrey Hepburn. They met in the same 1953, when the young actress came to the boutique of an aspiring fashion designer to pick up clothes for filming in the film “Sabrina.” Hubert himself was sure that Audrey’s more famous namesake at that time, Katharine Hepburn, would come to see him. By his own admission, he was quite upset when he saw that he was mistaken. However, that evening he and Audrey had dinner together, and even before dessert was served, Givenchy realized that he “would do anything for this girl.” They collaborated and were close friends for forty years - until Audrey's death in 1993. Givenchy created costumes for almost all of Hepburn's heroines.

Characters from the serious and thoughtful Jo Stockton from Funny Face to the frivolous Holly Golightly from Breakfast at Tiffany's wear Givenchy outfits on camera. The only exceptions were “War and Peace” (they needed historical rather than modern costumes) and “Two for the Road” - here Audrey played an ironic and emancipated woman, and the director decided that clothes from Paco Rabanne and Mary Quant would suit her better .

1 /4

Hubert de Givenchy and Audrey Hepburn

"Sabrina"

"Breakfast at Tiffany's"

Dress and lace mask from the movie “How to Steal a Million”

In addition to Audrey, Givenchy's clients included other celebrities who defined the era: Elizabeth Taylor, Jacqueline Kennedy, Marlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo and Princess Grace of Monaco. His style became the personification of “expensive” and “thoroughbred” elegance. The Givenchy brand has found its niche somewhere halfway from Chanel to Dior. His things were not as “bold” and laconic as the first, but still not as complex and deliberately feminine as the second. The Givenchy woman does not seek to attract attention to herself at any cost. At the same time, just by looking at her, you will understand that her outfit costs several thousand dollars.

In the late 80s, Hubert de Givenchy sold his brand to the LVMH concern, and in 1995 he completely retired, giving way to his successor John Galliano. He was successively replaced in this post by Alexander McQueen, Julien MacDonald, Riccardo Tisci and Clare Waight Keller. The creativity of each of them is a separate chapter in the history of the fashion house. But we, taking this opportunity, will remember what the world will remember Hubert himself for - the man without whom this whole story would never have begun.

"Broken" kits

The beginning of the 50s, when Givenchy founded his brand, was not the easiest time for European fashion designers. Many old fashion houses closed, unable to withstand competition with American brands: clients increasingly preferred clothes from overseas - they valued them for their affordability and practicality. That is why the young designer decided from the very beginning that his clothes would be wearable and comfortable - two qualities that not all of his French competitors took into account.

Already in his first collection, he included sets, the components of which could be purchased and worn separately. For example, blouses and cardigans, which were paired with several skirts of different lengths and different prints. Now this seems surprising, but in those years this approach was considered innovative - before Givenchy it was not customary to “break up” sets and costumes.

Blouse “Bettina”

Another highlight of Givenchy's debut collection in 1952. The blouse, the sleeves of which are decorated with large curly frills and a contrasting black print, instantly became a bestseller. The license for it was immediately bought by the New York store "Russex" - they began selling a cheaper copy of the thing - it’s hard to think of a better evidence of recognition.

The blouse was demonstrated by the one in whose honor it was named - Bettina Graziani, model, it-girl, muse and right hand of Givenchy: for several years she was responsible for public relations in his fashion house. In the mid-50s, Bettina left her job, but they continued to be close friends with the fashion designer until her death in 2015. In honor of Graziani, one of the most famous fragrances, Givenchy Amarige, was created in the 90s.

Today marks the 85th anniversary of the legendary designer, founder of the House of Givenchy, Hubert di Givenchy. Let us recall the main milestones of his creative biography.

The founder of the legendary House of Givenchy, Hubert James Marcel Taffin de Givenchy, was born on February 21, 1927 in the city of Beauvais, located north of Paris, into an aristocratic family. In 1930, his father died, and his mother and grandmother raised Hubert and his older brother Jean-Claude.

Givenchy, then still a child, was greatly impressed by the World Exhibition held in Paris in 1937: after seeing the pavilion dedicated to fashion and elegance, the boy decided to become a designer in the future. It should be noted that there were other prerequisites for this: Hubert had famous artists in his family. He is the great-grandson of the French painter Pierre-Adolphe Badin, the grandson of the artist and director of tapestry factories Jules Badin. Hubert's maternal family also included designers, including those who decorated the famous Grand Opera House in Paris.

Hubert was educated at the Ecole des Beaux-Arts in Paris. He then began working as an assistant to the famous designer who had a significant influence on fashion - Jacques Fath. The aspiring designer Givenchy also had the opportunity to work with such masters as Robert Piguet and Lucien Lelong - together with Hubert, the then unknown Pierre Balmain and Christian Dior learned from them. And from 1947 to 1951 Givenchy worked for avant-garde designer Elsa Schiaparelli.

Having gained experience, in 1942 Givenchy, who was then barely 25 years old, opened his own fashion house in Paris, becoming at that time the youngest designer in the industry. Givenchy named his first collection Bettina Graziani in honor of the then famous fashion model who became its face. His famous design of a modest white cotton blouse with black and white ruffles became also known as the “Bettina blouse.”

Hubert, then still strapped for cash, initially used fairly inexpensive materials, but his style immediately aroused considerable interest. He gravitated toward the then-current “new look,” however, unlike the more conservative Dior, Givenchy was distinguished by innovation.

The year 1953 brought Givenchy the acquaintance of his idol, the Spanish fashion designer Cristobal Balenciaga, as well as the actress Audrey Hepburn, who was starring in the film Sabrina at that time. Subsequently, Audrey became Givenchy's muse, his most famous client and good friend. Hepburn was the true embodiment of the sophistication and elegance of the House of Givenchy. She began to wear clothes of this particular brand both in life and in the movies - who doesn’t remember the famous black dress that Hepburn’s heroine Holly Gollightly had breakfast with in front of the Tiffany boutique window; Audrey’s other famous heroine, Sabrina, was also dressed in sophisticated Givenchy outfits.

Givenchy, in turn, said that Audrey is the ideal embodiment of the woman for whom he creates his clothes.

Audrey Hepburn in the movie Sabrina

Audrey Hepburn in the movie "Breakfast at Tiffany's"

Hubert de Givenchy and Audrey Hepburn

Givenchy also dedicated its first perfume L"Interdit to Audrey, after which the Parfums Givenchy perfume line was launched.

Among Givenchy's clients were other women who became the true embodiment of elegance - Jacqueline Kennedy, Grace Kelly, Greta Garbo, Marlene Dietrich and many others.

In 1954, Givenchy presented its first prêt-à-porter collection, and later, in 1973, launched a men's line. In 1988, the House of Givenchy became part of the French group LVMH.