Not long ago, we introduced you to a number of basic and popular options for men's classic shoes: oxfords, derbies, chelsea boots, chukkas and loafers. Today it's time to talk about brogues. Of course, the world of men's shoes is much more diverse and is not limited to classic shoes. and, of course, we will write about other types of men's shoes, but still the main emphasis is on the classics. Thus, as you already understood, today we will look at an extremely popular, but often little understood type of shoe - men's brogues.
Definition of brogues
The term "brogue" has an Irish accent and generally originates from the UK, namely Scotland and the west of England. The Irish word "brog" translates to "rough or strong shoes." Apparently Brog or brogue is also used to refer to footwear.
The Merriam-Webster Dictionary describes broguing as shoes with perforated ornament. Therefore, it goes without saying that any shoe decorated with perforations, regardless of whether it is derbies, oxfords or loafers, will have a middle name - brogues. Therefore, you can find oxford brogues, derby brogues, brogue loafers and so on.
|
|
|
|
Origin of brogues
Brogues were originally developed in Scotland and Ireland as footwear suitable for wearing while working outdoors. The countryside of Ireland and Scotland was characterized by wet and marshy terrain, which was not kind to the people who worked there and, of course, the first thing to suffer was their feet.
Moors of Scotland Local residents needed shoes that were suitable for this harsh terrain. The original men's brogues were made from untanned animal hide. Their distinctive feature there was a series of perforations and serrations. The purpose of this perforation was to allow water that had entered inside to escape. Another feature of their design was that, unlike other shoes, they did not have a tongue and also had high lacing that started above the ankle. This design feature made it possible not to get dirt and dust inside while walking through polluted or swampy areas. This basic design is often considered the standard shoe style for traditional Scottish costume.
Brogue ancestors as part national costume Scots So, brogues were originally designed to be worn with outerwear and were the main type of footwear worn by the working class mainly in Scotland and Ireland. It is because of these very roots that brogues were not considered appropriate footwear for higher social classes or business occasions for a long time. However, the situation changed in the 20th century, when men's rugged brogue boots were used as a template for fashion women's shoes. Today, perforation and broging are used exclusively for decorative purposes. Famous women Actresses such as Marlene Dietrich and Katharine Hepburn made them their signature style, boldly choosing men's brogue boots as a base. British model Twiggy also often performed in brogues custom-made by George Cleverley. All this led to an increase in the popularity of brogues. Because of this influence, perceptions began to change and the rough peasant shoe began to be considered acceptable to be worn by all levels of social class for most occasions.
|
|
|
|
By the 1920s, brogues were extremely popular among men, especially in the United States, but in England and continental Europe men's brogues are now an integral part of the men's wardrobe. Famous people like Fred Astaire, Gary Cooper or Cary Grant regularly appeared in public wearing brogues.
Characteristics and styles of brogues
Composing a list of characteristics of brogues is a difficult task, since they are universal shoes and are often found in various forms. However, we will list the main characteristics (basic - this means not all brogue boots can have all these characteristics):
- Low heel
- Presence of a sock.
- The presence of a backdrop.
- Availability of lace patterns.
- The presence of broging - decorative perforation.
Brogue designs have evolved and brogues have acquired different types.
1. Full brogues have a pointed toe with extensions called wings. They run along both sides of the boot and usually end near the foot. When viewed from above, the toe box is shaped like a "W" or "M", depending on which side you're looking at. Brogueing usually runs along the entire edge, as well as a decorative pattern in the center of the toe, called medallion. There are several options in this style.
2. Demi-brogues They have a toe without wings, brogueing is done both along the edge and on the sides of the toe, and a medallion on the toe is often found. This style was first developed by the famous London shoemaker John Lobb in 1937. Today you can find many variations, including with a V toe, with and without a medallion.
3. Quarter brogues Although they have a toe without extensions or wings, they nevertheless differ from semi-brogues in that the brogue is performed only along the edge of the toe and do not have any medallions.
4. Ghillie brogues- standard shoe style traditional clothes Scots, which is a full or semi-brogue, but differs from them in that they do not have a tongue and have long laces, which are tied and wrapped around the calves.
5. Modern brogues. You'll certainly find all sorts of modifications to classic styles. One of the most popular options is the brogue U-toe.
Brogues come in a variety of styles with a closed or open system, however, this is not the defining characteristic of men's brogues, except in the case of the Ghillie brogue. The most common brogues are oxfords (closed lacing system), derbies (open lacing system), monks (with single or double strap), chukkas, moccasins and even boots (both with and without laces).
|
|
|
|
How to Wear Men's Brogues
Despite the popularity of men's brogues, full brogues are not considered a completely formal shoe that can be worn with a men's classic three-piece suit. But, despite this, it is worth noting that men's brogues can one hundred percent be considered business shoes: quarter-length men's black brogues are perfect for business style.
Rules for wearing brogues:
- Always keep in mind that the more brogueing and perforations your boots have, the less formal they are and vice versa. While full brogues are ideal to pair with a casual outfit, semi-brogues in dark brown are very versatile and can be worn with tweed, sporty jackets and brown suits.
- Despite the fact that Prince William once committed a faux pas, men's brogues are by no means suitable for a classic black suit.
- If you are wearing a suit that is close to a formal, classic style, it is better to opt for half or quarter brogues, as they are more or less capable of maintaining the formality of the outfit. Full brogues go better with wool and tweed suits.
- For semi-formal occasions, when chic is not required and you can get by with a jacket or blazer, long-winged brogues will suffice. They will maintain the right amount of formality and at the same time add a touch of casualness.
- In a casual atmosphere, men's brogues can be paired with jeans, chinos and other non-dress trousers.
- Men's brogues come in a variety of colors, starting with the classic brown and black. Of course, there are endless shades of brown, and brogues are now available bright colors: red, green, blue. It is worth remembering that bright, spectacular shoes attract attention and cannot always be universally combined with most things in your wardrobe. But the basic rules for matching your shoe color with the rest of your outfit also apply to brogues.
- While the majority men's boots Made from chrome leathers, brogues are available in suede, full grain leather and all other types of leather. Ideally, you should choose brogues made from one type of smooth leather.
- Most of the shoes you will see in the store will have a traditional look with symmetrical perforations. However, in recent years there have been more creative men's brogues that look like someone fired a shotgun at your boots. So if you are more inclined to fashion news, it could be interesting way attract attention and stand out from the crowd.
- While I've seen some gentlemen wear the boots with shorts, and even three-stripe sweatpants, I have to admit that I'm not a fan of this style at all. For me, the shoes work well with jackets, blazers, informal suits in light tweed colors.
- Every man should own at least one pair of brogue boots, but I still recommend multiple pairs. If versatility is the main goal, maroon brogues will be best choice, however, chestnut will also work with many outfits. Of course, if you work in a bank, law firm, or other white-collar organization, it's best to take a closer look at black quarter brogues. If you don't have a specific dress code, suede brogues in various shades of brown work great. For boots I like it light brown color or dark burgundy.
Classic shoes are the foundation of a wardrobe; they can say much more about a man than any other item of clothing. Nowadays fashion is not as strict as it used to be, and boots under a formal suit may not be boring at all. Universal models have also appeared that are equally good both in the office and at informal events. Today we will talk about the leading three men's shoes - brogues, oxfords, derbies. The difference between these models is practically unnoticeable to the inexperienced, but yet it exists.
An all-time classic
In relation to Oxford shoes, you can use many epithets, but always with the prefix the most: the most classic, the most stylish, the most strict, the most traditional and businesslike. Many people associate sophisticated style and strict etiquette with England. That's right, because the ancestors of Oxford shoes first came into fashion there. Their ancestors are the Balmorals (photo below), named after the Scottish. In turn, their predecessors were Oxford ankle boots, popular in 1800 in the oldest European educational institution, after which they received their name.
In the USA, Balmorals and Oxfords are synonymous, and in the UK the former are considered a variety of the latter due to the missing stitching along the welt of the boot.
Derby
Less formal. They are considered a universal shoe model. In England they are often called "bluechers". The shoes got their name, according to one version, in honor of Marshal Blucher from Prussia, who, together with his army, participated in the Battle of Waterloo. The military, according to legend, wore the original open-laced boots, which, in all likelihood, were later transformed into shoes.
What is fermentation?
It's easy to get confused by the variety of shoe models. When starting a conversation about the difference between derbies, oxfords and brogues, one interesting detail should be mentioned. The brogues have perforations. The process of applying a pattern by perforating holes of various sizes is called brodging. It can be done on both derbies and oxfords.
Irish cattle farmers began deliberately punching holes in shoes in the 17th century. The main function of fermentation then is water from the foot and its rapid ventilation. Gradually, the model became popular among foresters and rangers, and then among the aristocracy. At this time, the appearance of modern brogues was formed. Convenience, practicality and versatility - these three qualities contributed to the popularization of shoes.
Thus, the difference between Oxfords and brogues, derbies and brogues, lies in the small perforations on the heel and toe. In fact, they are not a separate style of shoes, they are just a way of decorating them.
Types of brogues
Over time, the need for through perforation disappeared and punctures became decorative. They are applied in the form openwork pattern on the surface of the shoes. Depending on the technology, there are three types:
- Full brogues. In this case, the entire surface of the shoe is perforated.
- Demi-brogues. Small punctures are present only on the cut-off toe and are grouped into a specific pattern.
- Quarter brogues. Perforation is present only along the seams.
Derbies, brogues and oxfords: the difference in appearance
Oxfords are characterized by closed lacing. The vamp (front part of the boot) is sewn on top of the ankle boots (side parts), tightened with lacing.
In the case of derby, the opposite is true. The lacing of this type of shoe is open; the boots are sewn on top of the vamp. Therefore, the sides move freely to the sides when the laces are untied.
Initially, both types of shoes were typical exclusively for men's wardrobe. However, in the 20s of the last century the first women's oxfords and brogues. Difference between male and female model practically absent. Unless the latter are produced in the most diverse color scheme. In Russia, a craze for Oxford shoes among women was observed in 2010.
What to wear with derbies, brogues and oxfords
Many people do not know that in the case of derbies, brogues and oxfords, the differences also apply to wearing rules. Not all models look equally good with a classic suit and jeans. Certain requirements exist, and it would be useful to take them into account.
The most classic and strict model is Oxfords. Black shoes without perforations and decorative elements worn with a formal suit or tuxedo, tailcoat. Brown model suitable for skin for everyday wear. Women, on the other hand, can wear oxfords anytime and with anything.
Derby can be called the opposite of Oxford. The shoes are universal. Models in black and brown will go well with formal business suits. Derby from soft skin, with colored inserts, in bright colors will perfectly complement jeans or cotton chinos. Red leather shoes are very popular. Such derbies add brightness and originality to the image. Their destiny is an informal style of clothing: slacks, jeans.
Derby is the case when you can buy one pair and safely combine it with everything you have in your wardrobe. True, preference should be given to the least elaborate monochromatic models. This is the difference between Derby and Oxford shoes.
Brogues occupy an intermediate position. As already mentioned, perforations can be applied to both Oxfords and Derbys. It should be remembered that wearing shoes immediately reduces the degree of formality. Stylists do not recommend wearing brogues with formal suits. They are most harmoniously combined with tweed or wool suits and jackets in a casual style.
How much do men's oxfords and brogues cost?
The difference in price is determined by two factors: material and brand. Classic Oxfords have always been made from high-quality smooth leather. However, times are changing. Now you can find on sale models made of patent leather, suede, leatherette or a combination of materials. The classic color of the model is dark brown and black. Classic models can be found from old-time shoe companies: Crockett & Jones, Santoni, Edward Green, Cheaney, Wolverine and Barrett. Be prepared to pay a pretty penny for luxury brand products. Oxford shoes (pictured) from Crockett & Jones start at €395.
Of course, in mass markets it is more democratic. Shoes from genuine leather cost from three to four thousand rubles.
There is practically no difference in price between derbies, brogues and oxfords depending on the model. Classics are always more expensive, but not much. Quite often you can see how the cost of a thing changes greatly depending on fashion trends. However, this is not the case; classic oxfords, derbies and brogues are always in demand. For example, the British company NEXT offers its customers all models at prices ranging from four to five thousand rubles.
Brogues are another item of men's wardrobe that has migrated to women's. These comfortable, stable boots appeal to women who know what they want and keep their feet firmly on the ground. As usual, fashion designers have already managed to “tame” these shoes and give them feminine features. And now brogues can rightfully be called women's shoes.
What are there
A little history: brogues - boots with perforations - were “born” by Irish farmers. They had to walk a lot through swampy areas, driving cattle. So they made holes in their boots to get rid of the water that filled them and to ventilate. The word "brogue" is translated from ancient Gaulish as "to make holes." This term refers not so much to a specific shoe model, but to the way it is designed. Perforations are used to decorate shoe models such as Oxfords, Derbys, and loafers.
You don't have to limit yourself to brown or black
Over time, perforation ceased to play a practical role and was preserved only as a decorative element. Modern women's brogues can have more than just a classic look.
The characteristic features of brogues that distinguish them from other types of classic shoes are the toe cut out with the letter W (it looks like wings) and a medallion pattern made of holes (the number of holes can reach up to 500). Brogues have a low wide heel, open or closed lacing, and an upper made of leather, suede, or textile.
Depending on the amount of perforation, brogues are divided into:
- Full brogues. Abundantly decorated with perforations over the entire surface.
- Demi-brogues. In this case, only the seams and toe are decorated with perforations.
- Quarter brogues. There is even less perforation - it is only on the seams.
- Strict brogues. Referred to this species shoes only conditionally. There are no perforations at all, but there are characteristic “wings” on the toe.
There are also variations with purely feminine elements: on a high platform and stiletto heels, decorated with stones and rhinestones, with prints and embroidery, gold and silver buckles. Women's brogues can be traditionally short and taller. There are no restrictions in their color design: they are used as calm classic and pastel colors, and neon shades. Brogues come in one tone and two colors.
Women's brogues are not boring!
What and how to wear brogues
Since brogues originally had a working purpose, they look most natural in everyday looks. But in a business setting they are also quite appropriate. These shoes are considered stylish and status, and therefore will be correctly perceived by employees and business partners.
You can wear brogues with such things as:
Cropped trousers. They should be ankle length. If it’s longer, it’s better to tuck it. Long pants will eat up several centimeters of your height. Combine cropped trousers with blouses, T-shirts, tank tops, cardigans, sweaters, jackets or stylish suede and denim vests.
Jeans. These can be either narrowed models or wide boyfriends. Be careful: too narrow models with brogues can look comical. Will complement the look of a shirt in men's style– denim or checkered flannel.
Skinny or boyfriend styles - jeans go well with brogues
Shorts. Possible options: mid-thigh or shorter models, breeches. Sewing fabric – denim, wool or something lighter. In summer, leather and fabric brogues are worn under shorts on bare feet. In the demi-season version, plain socks, thick tights or lace stockings are suitable. Their color should either contrast with the shoes or support other accessories.
Brogues and shorts - a friendly pair
Overalls. The most advantageous options: trouser length to the ankle or with a bottom in the form of shorts.
Skirt or dress. For a formal event, brogues can be worn under a black sheath dress or pencil skirt. WITH summer dresses These shoes also harmonize very well with sundresses made of flying fabrics. Just avoid romantic details such as ruffles and flounces. An oversized sweater, a fitted jacket, a bomber jacket or a light coat will complete the look. You can also wear a maxi skirt under your brogues, but it should be straight cut and have side slits.
Brogues go perfectly with a dress
Costume. Brogues look very stylish with a tweed, corduroy and wool suit. If the suit is made in a classic style, it is better to choose minimally decorated quarter brogues. A simply stunning duet – patent leather brogues with a tuxedo. Two-tone brogues in classic tones are also suitable. An elegant hat and gloves will enhance the effect. In this form it is quite possible to go out into the world.
Every year more and more models of not only clothing, but also shoes appear. Thanks to this, any girl can find something suitable for herself that will allow her to look fashionable and stylish. Relatively recently, such a shoe model as women's brogues has become popular.
Women's brogues
Initially, brogues, like many other models, were considered exclusively for men, but then they successfully moved into the women's wardrobe, which the ladies are incredibly happy about.
Women's brogues are shoes with perforations; they most often have lacing, both open and closed. A distinctive feature is the presence of a detachable toe, which can have a variety of shapes.
These shoes were first invented by farmers in Ireland and Scotland. It was extremely convenient for people of this profession. There were perforations on the shoes not for beauty, but so that the shoes could dry faster, that is, the considerations were purely practical, and the cattle breeders did not think about fashion and style. A little later, such shoes ceased to be a necessity and, it would seem, should have disappeared, but this did not happen. It began to be worn by ordinary city residents who liked this model.
Now women's brogues are completely different. This applies to their color scheme, the presence of prints, height or lack of heels. That is, there are simply a lot of varieties of these shoes thanks to modern designers.
Types of brogues
Women's brogues are divided into several types. Basically, these types depend on where exactly the notorious perforation is located, which is a distinctive feature of this shoe.
Full brogues
As the name implies, this model has a completely perforated surface, and the toe is very reminiscent in appearance of the English letter W. They are considered the most classic model, which will perfectly complement both a strict look and a looser street look.
Demi-brogues
This type of women's brogues is distinguished by the presence of perforations exclusively along the seams and on a special cut-off toe. This toe is visually separated from the main part of the shoe by a seam that is straight. If you look closely, the combination of all the holes located directly on the toe resembles a medallion in appearance.
Quarter brogues
This type of brogue is considered the most formal and suitable specifically for a business, strict style. There is perforation on the surface only along the seams, that is, it is practically not noticeable. And on the toe there is no noticeable pattern in the form of a medallion.
What to wear with women's brogues?
Of course, it’s difficult to call brogues absolutely universal, but they can still be combined with a lot of things. Many women are hesitant to buy brogues because, in their opinion, they look too masculine and, accordingly, all images created with them will look too rough. But such conclusions are incorrect. If you choose the right items for these shoes, you can look not just feminine, but also sexy, because for this it is not at all necessary to constantly wear high-heeled shoes.
In addition, the advantage of brogues is that they look good on women with different figures and different age categories.
An obvious combination is to wear brogues with classic clothes. This a win-win, which will definitely look stylish and harmonious. Surely everyone business woman available pantsuit, this is exactly what you should wear women's brogues with. In the office they will be as convenient and comfortable as possible, which is important for modern ladies.
Brogues will also look quite good with jeans, especially rolled ones. As for accessories, in this case, you should give preference to a clutch, and in a situation with a classic suit, to a suitcase bag.
With skinny jeans you need to be careful not to visually shorten your legs. It is best to complement this look with elongated outerwear. It is also not recommended to wear women's brogues with miniskirts, because the legs will look too massive.
But with a dress you can combine brogues, which have a bright color and high heels.
Women's brogues will look good in combination with denim or classic shorts; in the first case, you can choose a fairly bright color, and in the second, it is better to stick to classic colors.
Naturally, brogues are not compatible with evening dresses, you shouldn’t even try to combine them, because the image will absolutely turn out extremely strange and ridiculous. The same can be said about deliberately sporty things, that is, about tracksuits. Brogues a priori will not suit them, so there is no need to try to be original and combine incompatible things.
This type of shoe should be preferred in casual and business style; these are the most acceptable options.
Women's brogues may look like classic shoes, or they may have a more modern look, in which their features are only guessed, but these are the models that will fit perfectly into the current wardrobe of any girl. Watch the updated versions in the video below.
How to choose brogues?
It is best to purchase women's brogues in branded stores so that you do not have to doubt their quality. It is the quality of this shoe that determines how long it can be worn. Brogues should be made of high-quality material, for example, leather models are popular. Thanks to the perforation, your feet should feel comfortable in them. It is important to carefully inspect the surface of the shoe to make sure that there are no cracks, abrasions or defects on it.
As for the color of this model, it needs to be selected based on what you plan to wear the brogues with. If a woman is going to wear these shoes exclusively to the office, then you shouldn’t choose bright colors; it’s better to stick with the classic brown or black color. But for brogues that you plan to wear for a walk or even a date, you can choose a brighter color. There is no need to be modest here, since bright shoes will become the main accent in the image.
It is best to choose women's brogues with very low heels; these will make your feet as comfortable as possible, and this model is classic, so it will take its rightful place in the wardrobe.
Before purchasing any modified women's brogues, for example, with platforms, heels, prints, etc., it is best to find classic models for yourself in order to understand what all their charm is. And then you can purchase some more daring, extravagant option.
The video below shows a versatile model of full brogues that can be worn every day and combined different styles in clothes.
Brogues are the most informal type of shoe.
What distinguishes them from other shoes is primarily the perforation with which they are richly decorated. And also a special type of fastening of the toe to the main part of the boots, similar to the letter W.
It is believed that Irish farmers were the first to try on brogues.
They often had to wander through swampy lands, their feet inevitably got wet, and then they began to make holes in their shoes so that the water would immediately flow out and their wet feet would dry out faster.
Probably at the same time the name of such shoes was born, which comes from the Gallic word “brog”, which means “to pierce with an awl.”
Later, British aristocrats drew attention to these decorations.
Prince Edward of Wales
Especially they pleased the famous fashionista Prince of Wales Edward. According to his order, shoemakers began to make holes in shoes in accordance with an intricate pattern.
Boldly combining such boots with different suits, the prince looked incredibly elegant and attractive.
Other dandies began to imitate him, decorating their lace-up shoes with perforations.
Practical benefits there were no longer any holes in the boots, so they gradually stopped making them through.
In this form, brogues have survived to this day.
What modern brogues look like
Brogues are back in fashion. Modern “holey” boots come in several types.
What to wear with brogues
Men's brogues are not easy shoes. The abundance of decorative elements attracts increased attention, however, it makes it very difficult to create a harmonious image.
Brogues are considered to be part of an informal style. They will look perfect with clothes made from tweed and corduroy. These combinations have already become classics.
They will also go well with sports or club jackets.. You will get a great look if the clothes have checkered colors. A bow tie will be a great addition to this look.
Classic brogues, especially those with rough thick soles, will harmonize well with jeans, shirts, leather jackets and parks. With them, the image will become more elegant and respectable than if your feet were wearing sneakers or sneakers. At the same time, it will remain fashionable, youthful, fresh.
You can try combining brogues and with classic suits. They will help diversify a boring business style.
However, in this case, you should still give preference to dark shoes with a minimal amount of decorative trim.
It is worth remembering that such “freshness” will not be appropriate everywhere. It’s still not worth going to official events with a strict dress code in such shoes.
Before taking brogues out of your shoe closet, you should pay attention to the silhouette of the trousers or jeans you are wearing. They shouldn't be too narrow.
Otherwise, a “clown effect” is possible when the legs and feet look awkwardly large. Decorated toe fashionable shoes in this case once again will emphasize the comic nature of the image.
Brogues: to take or not to take
We can definitely say that brogues will do honor to the wardrobe of any fashionista. They look stylish and modern, they can refresh a business look or add rigor to an informal one.
However not everyone manages to correctly combine such shoes with clothes. For beginning fashionistas, creating perfect bows using brogues may be too much for them.
We can absolutely say that brogues are the choice of daring, self-confident men with ideal taste.
