On the basis of which it will be possible to then construct a drawing and make a skirt pattern of the appropriate sizes. You need to take measurements very carefully and do all measurements with great accuracy. Any measurement inaccuracy will then appear in the finished product.
As an example, calculations and construction will be made on a figure with the following measurements:
| Dimensional sign | Designation | Size (cm) |
| Half waist | ST | 38 |
| Half hip circumference | SB | 52 |
| Hip Length | db | 16-19… |
| Distance from waist to floor at side | DsB | 102 |
| Distance from waist to floor in front | Chipboard | 100 |
| Rear waist to floor distance | DsZ | 100 |
| Skirt bottom level | U | 30 |
U – level of the bottom of the skirt- measured vertically from the floor to the desired level of the bottom of the skirt. When calculating, the measurement value is subtracted from DsP, DsB and DsZ to determine the length of the skirt in each section.
Loose fitting table (CO) for the skirt
Construction of a straight skirt pattern with one dart along the front and back halves
1. Construct a right angle with the vertex at point T, from which we plot vertically:
Front length: TN = chipboard - U = 100 cm - 30 cm = 70 cm.
Length to hips: TB = Db = 18 cm.
Through the obtained points B and H, draw horizontal lines to the left.
2. Skirt width along the hips: BB 1 = SB + CO = 52 cm + 1 cm = 53 cm.
Through B 1 we draw a vertical line until it intersects with the waist line at point T 1 and the bottom line at point H 1. This straight line is the middle of the back panel of the straight skirt.
3. Length of the skirt along the back: H 1 T 1 = DsZ - U = 100 cm - 30 cm = 70 cm.
4. Front panel width:
- for a proportional figure: BB 2 = 1/2 (SB + CO) = 1/2 (52 cm + 1 cm) = 26.5 cm. Or taking into account the bulge of the abdomen 1/2 (SB + CO) + 1 cm = 1 /2 (52 cm + 1 cm) + 1 cm = 27.5 cm
- for a thin, flat figure or, accordingly, evenly full: BB 2 = 1/2 (SB + CO) = 1/2 (52 cm + 1 cm) = 26.5 cm
- for a figure with protruding buttocks, the back panel of the straight skirt should be wider than the front: BB 2 = 1/2 (SB + CO) - 1 cm = 1/2 (52 cm + 1 cm) - 1 cm = 25.5 cm
- for a figure with a strongly protruding belly, the width of the front panel is greater than the back one: BB 2 = 1/2 (SB + CO) + 2 cm = 1/2 (52 cm + 1 cm) + 2 cm = 28.5 cm
Draw a vertical line through B 2, we get points T 2 and H 2.
5. Side skirt length: H 2 T 3 = DsB - U = 102 cm - 30 cm = 72 cm.
Or, from T 2 up, set aside the difference in measurements DsB - Dsp = 102 cm - 100 cm = 2 cm.
6. To determine the side and all the undercuts of the front and rear halves of the skirt, find the difference between the measurements of SB and ST, taking into account their loose fit (SB) and then (SB + CO) - (ST + CO) = (52 cm + 1 cm) – (38 cm + 1 cm) = 14 cm
If, when calculating the total solution of the darts, we received a value greater than 14.5 cm, then to better fit the skirt on the figure, it is necessary to construct additional darts. If the amount of darts is from 14.5 to 17.5 cm, we build an additional dart at the back. If the amount of darts is more than 17.5 cm, we build another additional dart in the front. An additional dart is built between the main and side cuts.
7. Side dart solution equal to 1/2 14 cm = 7 cm. From T 3 to the right and left we put aside half of the tuck solution: 7 cm /2 = 3.5 cm.
T 3 T 4 = T 3 T 5 = 3.5 cm.
The remainder of the dart 14 cm - 7 cm = 7 cm is distributed among the darts of the back and front halves of the skirt.
8. The emphasis of the side dart either reaches point 3 or the hip line, point B 2. If the slope of the hips is large or the fabric is poorly ironed, the stop of the side dart reaches point B 2. If the skirt is without a side seam, then the emphasis is only at point 3 and above.
9. Connect straight points T 4 and T 5 with point 3, divide the segments in half and restore a perpendicular of 0.5 - 1 cm at the division point.
10. Draw convex side lines through points T 4 and 3, T 5 and 3.
In a straight skirt, the side sections below the hip line can be cut exactly in a straight line or with a slight extension downwards (up to 3 cm, symmetrically relative to point H 2). Extension downwards is desirable for full figures with a large difference in the half-circumferences of the hips and waist. In the finished product this expansion is invisible and the skirt looks straight.
11. Create an arched waist line through points T 4, T and T 5, T 1. At points T and T 1 a right angle must be maintained.
This dart is placed either in the middle of the waist (segment TT 4 is divided in half) or its position is determined as 1/4 ST + 1.5-2-3 cm = 1/4 38 cm + 3 cm = 12.5 cm.
TT 6 = 12.5 cm. From point T 6, lower the perpendicular down to the hip line.
Dart solution the front panel is equal to 1/3 7 cm = 2.5 cm. From T 6 we put aside half of the solution in both directions.
T 6 T 7 = T 6 T 8 = 1.25 cm.
Increasing emphasis
The sides of the darts are aligned with each other on the larger side.
13.Construction of the back dart of a straight skirt.
Dart solution the back panel is equal to 2/3 7 cm = 4.5 cm. This dart is placed in the middle of the waist: we divide the segment T 1 T 5 in half, we get T 9, from which half of the solution is put on both sides.
T 9 T 10 = T 9 T 11 = 2.25 cm.
Increasing emphasis equals 3-6 cm.
Note. If there is a large deflection along the back and convex buttocks, then the sides of the waist dart of the rear panel are drawn with convex lines during fitting. If there is a convex belly along the front, the dart can be designed with concave lines.
Constructing a pattern for a straight skirt with two darts along the back
1. Calculation of the total solution of darts along the waist line:
(SB + CO) – (ST + CO) = (52 cm + 1 cm) – (38 cm + 1 cm) = 14 cm
2.Side dart solution equal to 1/2 14 cm – 1 cm = 6 cm. From point T 3 to the right and left we put aside half of the tuck solution.
T 3 T 4 = T 3 T 5 = 3 cm.
3. The remainder of the dart 14 cm - 6 cm = 8 cm is distributed among the darts of the back and front halves of the skirt.
4. Construction of the dart of the front panel of a straight skirt.
The position of the dart along the waist line is determined as 1/4 ST + 1.5-2-3 cm = 1/4 38 cm + 3 cm = 12.5 cm.
TT 6 = 12.5 cm. Point T 6 is the middle of the dart.
Dart solution the front panel is equal to 1/4 14 cm - 1 cm = 2.5 cm. From T 6 we put aside half of the solution in both directions.
T 6 T 7 = T 6 T 8 = 1.25 cm.
Increasing emphasis The waist dart is 6-8-10 cm.
5. Construction of darts for the back panel of a straight skirt.
The position of the first dart along the waist line is determined as 1/4 ST = 1/4 38 cm = 9.5 cm.
T 1 T 9 = 9.5 cm. Point T 9 is the middle of the dart.
First tuck solution equal to 1/4 14 cm = 3.5 cm. From T 9 to the right and left we put aside half of the solution.
T 12 T 9 = T 11 T 9 = 1.75 cm.
The second dart is located in the middle of the segment T 11 T 5. Point T 10 is the middle of the dart.
Second tuck solution equals 14 cm – (6 cm + 2.5 cm + 3.5 cm) = 2 cm, (where 6 cm is the side dart of the front and back halves; 2.5 cm is the waist dart of the front half; 3.5 cm is the first waist dart of the back half)
From T 10 to the right and to the left we put aside half of the solution.
T 10 T 13 = T 10 T 14 = 1 cm.
The increase in the stop of the first groove is 3-6 cm, the increase in the stop of the second groove is 6-8 cm.
STRAIGHT SKIRT
This topic is for those who want to learn how to cut and sew a simple straight skirt with a slit in the back for themselves or their girlfriend. The construction of the pattern, cutting of the product and assembly of the product are described in detail here, both for beginners and for those who know how to sew, but some questions arose during work.
The measurements are given for a specific figure as an example, you substitute your measurement numbers and follow the described scheme for yourself.
In this topic you will find some tips that you will need while working. If you have questions or suggestions, please ask so that you can edit this topic in more detail.
Taking measurements.
We begin taking measurements by marking approximate points and lines on the figure.
We fix the waist line with a thin braid, which we place strictly horizontally. Since the drawings are made for half the figure (when cutting, the pattern is placed on the fabric folded in half), measurements of girth (except for the arm girth) and width are also recorded in half size.
Waist circumference (From). Place the tape horizontally around the body along the waist line.
Hip circumference (About). Apply the tape to the buttock points. It runs horizontally around the body, in front along the protrusion of the abdomen and hips, and closes on the right side of the body.
Skirt length (Length). We measure from the waist line to the side.
Measurements:
Overall: 1/2: 1/4
Waist circumference (From) – 70 cm: 35 cm: 17.5 cm
Hip circumference (Ob) – 96 cm: 48 cm: 24 cm
Skirt length (Length) – 50 cm
Additional data: total: 1/2
Freedom of fit at the hips (SO) – 4 cm: 2 cm
Pattern.
We draw a basic skirt pattern without a loose fit and without seam allowances.
Take a sheet of paper 10 cm larger than the half-circumference of the hips (HH) and longer than the measurement Length. by 10 cm (i.e. 58 cm by 60 cm).
Stepping back 5 cm from the top edge, place point A and draw a line from it perpendicular to the side edge.
We write on the line - the waist line.
Set aside 18 cm from the waist line along the side edge and place point B.
We write on the line - the line of the hips.
From the waist line along the side edge we set aside the length of the skirt (Length Yu.) - 50 cm and put a point H.
We draw a line from it perpendicular to the side edge.
We write on the line - the bottom line.
From point A, we plot the half-circumference of the hips (HH) along the waist line - 48 cm and place point A1.
Draw a perpendicular down to the waist line and place points on the hip line - point B1, on the bottom line - point H1.
From point A we set aside the circumference of the hips (H) - 24 cm and place point A2.
Draw a perpendicular down to the waist line and place points on the hip line - point B2, on the bottom line - point H2.
We sign the constructed lines:
Line AN - middle front,
Line A1H1 – middle of the back,
Line A2H2 – side.
Side groove.
From point A2 along the waist line, set aside 3 cm to the left and right and place points A3 and A4. We connect them to point B2.
In the middle of each line A3B2 and A4B2 we draw a 5 mm perpendicular to the side and a smooth curved line.
Front undercut.
From point A along the waist line, measure 10 cm and place point A5. We lower the perpendicular to the line of the hips and mark 10 cm on this line. Place point B3.
From point A5 to the left and right we measure 1 cm and put points A6 and A7.
We connect these longings with point B3.
Rear undercut.
From point A1 we put 10 cm along the waist line and put point A8, from which we lower the perpendicular to the line of the hips and measure 15 cm on it. We put point B4.
We calculate our individual back groove using the formula:
Half hip circumference (HH) minus half waist circumference (SW) minus front dart (2 cm) minus side dart (6 cm) equals
POB (48 cm)-POT (35 cm)-2 cm-6 cm=5 cm
(If the back dart is more than 5.5 cm, then we make two identical back darts, i.e. we divide the total amount of the back dart by 2. For example: POB (49 cm) - POT (35 cm) - 2 cm - 6 cm =6 cm. Now 6/2=3 cm. This means that the first back groove is located, as written above, with a total of 3 cm, the second will be located in the middle between points A9 and A4 - the construction is exactly the same as the first. )
This number means the total amount of the back groove, so we divide it in half (5/2 = 2.5 cm).
From point A8 we put 2.5 cm along the waist line to the left and right and put points A9 and A10.
We connect these points with point B4.
We outline our pattern with a thick line, as shown in Fig. 5, and cut out the pattern along this line.
Glue on the sides of our pattern along a wide strip from the waist line to the bottom line.
We add 1 cm of freedom of fit along the hips on each side, because CO = 4 cm in total girth, and we have a drawing of a skirt with half girths.
Draw a straight line from the hip line and along the bottom line, which smoothly transitions to the waist line without any allowance for a loose fit (CO).
We sign along the line of the middle of the front and back - lobar thread.
We trace our new pattern and cut it out.
This is a ready-made skirt pattern for construction on fabric, but without seam allowances.
Skirt cut.
Before cutting, the fabric must be decated and ironed with a hot iron, to see if there is any defect in the fabric in order to get around it when cutting.
Laying fabric for cutting
First of all, when cutting fabric, it is necessary to focus on the direction of the grain and weft threads, since the fabric stretches differently in the direction of the warp and the direction of the weft. ( The basis- threads running along the edge of the fabric. Hence their other names - “ lobar threads" or " main threads". Ducks- threads running across the edge of the fabric. Their other name is “ weft threads".)
If the parts are placed incorrectly when cutting, the product will quickly lose its shape or turn out skewed (if not immediately, then after washing).
Usually we fold the fabric for cutting in half with the right side inward, aligning the edges.
This option is suitable for cutting a product in which all the parts are paired (two shelves, two backs, two sleeves, etc.), or for cutting a product in which some of the parts are paired, and the other part has a fold in the middle line. For example: the back is made of two parts, and the front is a whole part with a fold. In this case, we lay the parts as follows: the back pattern is to the edges, and the middle of the front is to the fold of the fabric.
If both the back and the front are whole parts with a fold in the middle, then it is better to lay the fabric with two folds, as shown in the figure.
We lay the back pattern with the middle line to one fold, and the front pattern with the middle line to the other fold.
This layout method is also used for skirts if the front and back panels of the skirt do not have seams.
Among modern fabrics there are those that stretch well on the warp and poorly on the weft. In this case, we perform the layout of the patterns in reverse, i.e. The direction of the warp thread on the patterns should lie along the weft thread of the fabric
If you are translating patterns from magazines, then do not forget to translate the arrows indicating the direction of the warp threads (lobe threads).
We lay out our skirt pattern according to Figure 10, pin it along the perimeter of the parts.
We outline our skirt pattern with fine tailor's chalk.
A dull edge of a crayon can be “sharpened” with a knife.
We mark the allowances around the pattern pieces using a ruler and tailor's chalk: at the top - 1 cm, on the sides - 2 cm, at the bottom - 4 cm, in the center of the back - 2 cm.
And again we outline with thin chalk.
At the bottom of the fabric we draw a belt along the fold with chalk: length - POTS + 10 cm, and width - 8 cm. We draw the same detail (belt) on the non-woven fabric.
Let's cut out our parts.
Sewing a skirt.
We transfer the outline of the parts to another layer of fabric using copy stitches (snatch), i.e. on a paired part or on the symmetrical side of a solid part (parts with a bend). These are the same running stitches, but when laying them, the threads do not tighten, but form small loops 1-1.5 cm high. The length of the stitch in the loop is 3-5 mm, the distance between the stitches is up to 1 cm.
After laying stitches around the perimeter and inside the part, we move the cut apart, stretch the snares and cut the threads. As a result, the outline of the pattern is obtained on both identical parts (or symmetrical sides) at once. We trace it along the wrong side with thin chalk.
Before the first fitting, we connect the skirt parts with running stitches.
To process a recess, fold the corresponding part with the front side inward along the center line of the recesses so that its sides are aligned. To avoid shifting layers of fabric during processing, we cut off the undercut with several pins, placing them perpendicular to the basting line. In order not to stretch the fabric, we baste the sides from the cuts of the part towards the top of the dart.
We iron the darts on the front half of the skirt to the center of the front, and the darts on the back half to the center of the back.
Baste the side seams and the back seam until the snake is positioned.
First fitting.
We put the sour cream product on the figure and secure the clasp with pins. By external inspection we determine the correctness of its overall fit. Then we proceed to the necessary clarifications and corrections in accordance with the figure.
First of all, we check the position of the side seams, the direction and length of the undercuts, and the length of the product.
If the product turns out to be too big, then we take the excess fabric into the seam. If it’s not enough, we rip out the basting lines on the sides and release the fabric.
Glue the interlining onto the belt piece with a hot iron and iron the belt in the middle along its length.
We attach the belt to the skirt. We pin it with a pin. We mark with chalk the connection of the belt along the pin, on the skirt we draw the edge of the belt along the waist circumference as it fits on this figure.
Unfasten the belt and remove the product.
We clarify the defects of the skirt, i.e. we remove (and trim excess fabric) or release fabric reserves.
Once again we put the skirt on the figure, performing the second fitting. If there are any other defects, we will remove them again.
Then we process the seam sections with a zigzag stitch or overlock.
We sew the side seams, press them onto the back or press them.
Sewing a zipper into the back seam of the skirt.
Place the zipper at the top of the back seam of the skirt and mark with chalk where the bottom zipper lock is located.
Use small stitches to sweep the top of the seam up to the mark, then use a sewing machine to sew to the mark where the cut of the skirt begins.
Iron the seam. Unzip the zipper and place it on the seam on the wrong side of the skirt so that the edge of the seam coincides with the edge of the teeth. We pin this side of the zipper to the skirt, capturing all three layers. Fasten the zipper and pin the other side of the zipper to the skirt. Place small running stitches on both sides of the zipper. We remove the pins. Using a sewing machine, we sew a line along the front side of the skirt to the width of the foot (about 5 mm) from the zipper teeth from top to bottom, turn it behind the clasp - sew 1 cm, turn the product and sew it back from bottom to top along the seam.
Remove the running stitches and iron the zipper.
We cut off the skirt, matching the top of the product, from the middle of the front to the middle of the back. Unfasten the zipper.
From the chalk line drawn where the belt will be sewn, mark 1 cm per seam. Cut off excess fabric. We secure the grooves and seams with tacks so that they do not come apart.
We mark with a notch the middle of the front and the middle of the waistband. We place the prepared belt with the front side on the front side of the skirt. Having aligned the cuts, we connect the notches, pin them, and baste them from the side of the skirt with a slight fit of the latter.
We turn the belt in the middle with the front side facing inward. We sew the edges of the belt, folding the lower edges, retreating 2 cm on each side from the zipper. We process the edge of the belt that is not attached to the skirt with an overlocker. Turn the belt right side out to wrong side. We connect the curved edges inward and pin them together.
After this, we bend one edge of the waistband, overlap it with the other edge, sew it together and machine stitch along the waistband of the front side of the skirt with an overstitch seam 1 mm from the edge of the stitching.
We bend the bottom of the product and the slit (first the bottom of the skirt, and then the slit), overlapping the lower edge of the skirt. Apply running stitches. We iron the edge of the skirt and make cross stitches from left to right, and make needle punctures from right to left, alternating them along the main fabric and along the folded edge. In this case, the stitches should not be noticeable from the front side. The main fabric is not pierced through, but only by capturing half of its thickness. Stitch length is 5-7 mm.
Final wet-heat treatment
We clean the product from industrial waste (chalk, thread, etc.). Turn the skirt inside out. Iron the belt without stretching its upper edge. We iron the zipper through the ironing iron. Iron each side of the cut together. Iron the entire fabric of the product well. The product cools down for 15-20 minutes.
Cut a loop on the upper (front) part of the belt. From the edge of the belt, the loop is located at a distance of 0.5 - 1 cm exactly in the middle of the belt. Sew a button on the lower left side of the belt. The location of the button should be marked with the zipper closed.
Thank you for your attention.
Hello, dear needlewomen! It's spring outside, and every girl wants to look new every day. A stylish skirt will help with this: straight, pencil, sun. And there are no extra skirts. You will learn how to quickly sew a skirt without a pattern from this material.
Skirt with elastic drawstring
A skirt with an elastic band is sewn easily and quickly. In just an hour, a new item will appear in your wardrobe.
Let's start sewing!
- Take the material and fold it in half.
- Let's measure the circumference of the hips.
- Let's make an allowance for freedom of movement - 5 cm.
- Leave seam allowances - 1-5, cm.
- Let's measure the length, leave it for the hem and drawstring.
You will end up with a rectangle.
For beginner tailors, it is better to make a pattern on paper.
- Sew the side seams.
- Process the cuts using an overlocker.
- Press the seams.
- Fold the top section of the skirt inside out to the width of the elastic and stitch.
- Insert the rubber band.
- Fold the bottom by hand.
Using the same principle, you can sew an A-line model. When cutting pieces, flare them towards the bottom.
Using an elastic band, you can also sew a curvy model in several tiers. This could be a floor-length skirt or a very short item. It can be sewn in the same way, only the width of the panel for each tier must be increased by about 10-25 cm.
You can sew a half-sun or sun skirt using an elastic band. A pattern on paper will help beginning craftswomen:
- from the upper right corner draw a radius ® to indicate the waist line,
- and radius (R1) to find the bottom edge line (radius R + product length).
Radius R = half hip circumference + allowance for freedom of movement and seams.
To make the product unique, take 2 shades of fabric. The sewing procedure is the same.
The easiest sewing option
You can sew an elegant straight skirt in the evening. If you have a boring jumper or blouse, then everything is simple: cut off everything unnecessary, insert an elastic band and that’s it!
Novice dressmakers can choose this option.
A straight skirt can be sewn with one back seam. Take the fabric, take two measurements - hip circumference and length of the product.
Such a skirt can be sewn from knitwear. If you want to get a floor-length skirt, then you will have to leave a slit in the back, otherwise you will not be able to walk, but in a short one you will feel very free.
If the hip circumference is 100 cm, measure 50 cm from the fold + freedom allowance - 5 cm + for allowances - 1-1-1.5 cm.
The sewing pattern is the same.
Sewing a wrap skirt
Wrap skirt has not left the podium for several years in a row. This style goes with any outfit, and there are a lot of styling options. It can be sewn with ruffles, pleats, short, long, elegant, formal or casual. You can also choose any fabric. In any case, you will look both elegant and seductive.
A charming wraparound model can be made in one evening. The white border, wide belt and row of white buttons make it unforgettable.
Modeling
Take the pattern of a straight model as a basis.
- Let's expand the right front half. To do this, cuts are made along the marked lines and 10 cm are added to the folds.
- The left half of the product is cut without folds.
- The bottom of the scent is cut according to the pattern.
Pattern details:
- Rear half – 1 child. with fold;
- Front right half – 1 child;
- Left front half – 1 child.
- The belt is cut out from a strip 10 cm wide (5 cm in finished form). Its length is equal to the waist circumference + 3 cm – the opening for the fastener.
More complex option
The highlight of this model is the small folds.
Modeling
- Shorten the pattern of the front half and back to the desired length.
- Set aside 10 cm from the hip line down and draw a line.
- At the bottom of the pattern, set aside 2 cm from the side line. Narrow the model as shown in the drawing.
- To get the smell, you need to completely re-remove the front half.
- Move the left dart to the side, remove the right one.
- Divide the right half of the front of the model into 3 equal parts, drawing vertical lines with dotted lines.
- Using the pattern, draw the wrap of the skirt, rounded towards the bottom.
- Additionally, draw a 3 cm wide skirt facing.
- Cut the wrap part along the lines as in the pattern drawing.
- Place the parts at a distance of 4 cm from each other along the outer edge.
- Cut out the facing for the top of the product, 3 cm wide. The facing is cut out with closed darts on the front and back of the skirt.
How to tailor a skirt
- Front half of the skirt – 1 piece. with a fold.
- Rear half – 2 children.
- The smell of the skirt – 1 child.
- Smell trim – 1 piece.
- Facing the front half of the top of the skirt – 1 piece. with a fold.
- Trimming the back half of the top of the skirt – 2 pieces.
Sequence of work
- Sew darts on both halves of the product.
- Sew a zipper along the middle seam of the back halves.
- Place folds on the wrap of the model, stitching each one 6 cm.
- Reinforce the wrapping with non-woven fabric.
- Place face to face on the scent and stitch.
- Cut the allowances close to the stitching, turn the facing to the wrong side, baste it, iron it.
- Hem the facing with a blind stitch.
- Baste the skirt along the free side, ironing the allowances.
- Fold the bottom 3 cm and hem by hand.
- Apply the scent to the front of the product, carefully align it on the side, and sweep.
- Sweep the front half on the scent side and the back half on the side. Sew, ironing seam allowances.
- Reinforce the facing of the top of the product with non-woven fabric, sweep the side seams, apply to the top edge of the model, baste, and stitch.
- Then you need to turn the facing to the wrong side, sweep it, then smooth it with an iron.
- Secure the facing with a blind stitch along the seam allowances.
- Sew stitches on the wrap.
- Apply the scent to the skirt according to the markings.
- Sew buttons on top of the wrap onto all the loops, grabbing the skirt fabric.
Wrap skirt samples
Look how elegant a long wrap skirt looks.
Fashion Favorite - Pencil Skirt
Seductively fitting the figure, it will emphasize all the advantages of a woman. This style is suitable for girls and mature women of all sizes.
The model is ideal for both classic and romantic style of suit.
To choose the right fabric, you need to know several nuances. For plump women, plain fabrics or those with small, sparse patterns are suitable.
Boho tablecloth skirt:
- Take a square of fabric.
- Cut a circle in the middle of the “main” square.
- Sew on the rectangles (they are shown in a different color).
- Sew on the elastic waistband.
If you are 1.70 m tall, take a square 115 by 115 cm. Cut a circle according to your waist size.
- Sew the long sides with the sides of the (blue in the picture) square. Start stitching on both sides, 1 cm from the edge.
- Sew the short sides of the quadrangles together. You can wear a skirt!
Boho is femininity itself!
Multi-tiered design gives full play to your imagination!
A bold choice for true fashionistas!
Dear craftswomen, the whole summer is ahead! It's time to sit down at the typewriter and delight yourself with new things. Now you know how to quickly sew a skirt without a pattern!
A straight skirt is a part of the wardrobe that every woman has!
Well, or almost everyone.
A straight skirt is a wardrobe staple and is why all women should have it.
Thanks to its simplicity and unobtrusiveness, it can easily be paired with almost any blouse, jacket or even T-shirt.
It is with sewing that it is best to begin learning sewing for those who want to learn how to sew.
The pattern and construction of the drawing of the base of a straight skirt is very simple and uncomplicated.
The drawing of a straight skirt was constructed using the EMKO method.
If you don't know about taking measurements for a skirt, then I strongly advise you to study this issue, because each cutting system has its own rules for taking measurements.
Construction of the basic mesh for the skirt drawing.
To construct a mesh, we construct a right angle with the vertex at point T.
The grid consists of 3 horizontal and 5 vertical lines.
Horizontal lines: waist, hips and bottom.
Vertical lines: middle of the back panel, middle of the front panel, side line, back dart line, front dart line.
Construction of a straight skirt drawing:
1. Construct a right angle at point T, which corresponds to the position of the waist line from the back.
2. Skirt length.
From point T downwards we put Di and put point H.
3. Position of the hip line.
From point T downwards we set aside a distance equal to Dts2/2 - 2 cm, and place point B.
4. The width of the skirt along the hips (mesh width).
From point B to the right we lay off a segment equal to Sb + Pb and place point B1.
5. Through points T, B and H we draw horizontal lines to the right, from point B1 we draw a perpendicular up and down and at the intersection with the waist line we put point T1, at the bottom H1.
6. The width of the back panel of the skirt.
From point B to the right we set aside a distance equal to Sb + Pb/2 - 1 cm, and place point B2.
The front panel of the skirt is made wider so that the side seams do not go forward, but go slightly back.
From point B2 we raise and lower the perpendicular and at the intersection with the waist line we place point T2, and with the bottom line - H2.
7. Total calculation of the tuck solution.
The total solution of the darts is equal to: SВ - (Sb + Pb) - (St + Pt)
8. Side dart.
Is the side dart opening equal to? total solution of tucks.
SВ/2 = X
Т2Т3 (left) = Т2Т4 (right) = X/2
9. Back dart position.
From point B to the right we set aside a distance equal to BB2/2 and place point B3.
From point B3 we draw a perpendicular upward to the waist line - this is the center line of the back dart.
Back dart length = 12 - 15 cm (depending on body shape).
Back dart opening = 0.3*SB
If the back dart opening exceeds 5 cm, then a 2nd dart is built, which is located between the side cut and the main back dart. The resulting solution is distributed between 2 tucks, the larger solution goes to the 1st tuck, and the smaller solution goes to the 2nd. The second dart is built shorter than the first by 1.5 - 2 cm.
10. Front dart position.
From point B1 to the left we set aside a distance equal to B1B2/2 + 1 and place point B4.
From point B4 we raise the perpendicular to the waist line - the center line of the front dart.
Dart length = TB/2 or 9 - 10 cm.
The front dart opening is 0.2*SB
11. Increased side cuts.
From points T3 and T4 we raise the perpendiculars up by 1.5 cm and place points T31 and T41.
We connect points T31 and T41 with a straight line to point B2, divide this segment in half and from the division point along the perpendicular to the left and right we set aside 0.5 cm to form a convex line in the hip area (side seam).
We draw the waist line with a smooth concave line, connecting point T31 to point T and point T41 to point T1.
The back panel of the skirt is highlighted in blue, and the front panel is highlighted in red.
The lateral line runs along one straight line.
The pattern of the drawing of the base of a straight skirt can be supplemented with any divisions of the structure.
You can sew a straight skirt by adding some decorative elements to it, or you can “cut” it into several parts and combine it from different materials.
Flight of your imagination, and the skirt of your dreams is at your feet :)
Construction of the base of the skirt according to the method of G. Zlachevskaya
We all know that when creating a pattern for any skirt, it is necessary to have a proven and well-fitting base. Any of these skirtscan be modeled using the basis of G. Zlachevskaya
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Perfect Skirt
Calculation of the basis of a straight skirt with a perfect fit. To do this, take measurements using the instructions.
We will further use the following data for calculations:
Waist circumference 76
Hip circumference 106
Back skirt length 104
Side skirt length 105
Skirt front length 103
To construct the drawing, we introduce abbreviations:
St - waist semi-circumference 38
Sat - hip semicircle 53
Dusz - Back skirt length 61
Dusb - Side skirt length 62
Dusp - Skirt front length 60
Increases in looseness of fit.
At the waist for freedom we add: Pt = 0.5 -1.0 cm.
It adds 1 cm along the hips. For cutting the lining, we will not give this increase so that the lining fits the figure.
"Models of women's skirts"
The increase in hips depends on the fullness of the figure:
Ob= 96cm - 100cm => Pb= 0.5cm
104cm - 108cm => Pb= 1cm
112cm - 116cm => Pb= 1.5cm
Over 120cm => Pb= 2cm
To construct the drawing, we use the same measuring tape that was used to take measurements.
1. Construct a right angle in the lower left corner with the vertex at point H.
2. Skirt width: HH1 = Sat + Pb = 53 + 1 = 54
3. Skirt back length: NT = DYUSZ = 61
4. Mark the hip line. TB = 18-19 cm draw a horizontal line BB1 = HH1.
The TB figure is average. If you think your buttocks are too high (low), ask to measure your distance from the line to the maximum protrusion of the buttocks.
With an asymmetrical figure, this measurement may differ for different halves and two different halves of the back panel of the skirt are built, differing in the position of the hip line.
5. Rear panel width: НН2 = НН1: 2 - 1 = 54: 2 - 1 = 26
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Advice from the book by G.N. Alexandrova:
Shifting the side seam towards the back panel for small sizes, hip volume (OB less than or equal to 104), is not necessary.
For medium sizes, up to OB=116 - offset by 1 cm (used in point 5)
For large sizes, OB over 116 - offset 2cm
6. Draw a vertical line from H2 and mark the side length of the skirt on it. H2T2 = Dusb = 62.
From H1 we set off the length of the skirt in front vertically: H1T1 = 60
7. Connect points T1, T2 and T with straight lines. This is the position of the waist line. Create a smooth line with a slight downward bend.
8. Darts. We determine the sum of the solutions of the front and rear darts:
SUM = (Sat + Pb) - St = (53 + 1) - 38 = 16
9. The side dart solution is half of this amount:
T3T4 = SUM: 2 = 16: 2 = 8 (from point T2 we put equal amounts to the right and left)
Let's connect points T3 and T4 with B2
Let's make the side line smooth (for a proportional figure): T3B2 and T4B2 are divided in half and restored along a small perpendicular, setting aside 0.5 cm at each. Draw smooth hip lines through these points.
10. Divide the remainder of the SUM into three parts. One part goes to the front dart: 8: 3 = 2.7 Two parts - to the back: 2.7 x 2 = 5.4 11. Placement of the darts on the waist line (for a proportionally folded figure): section of the waist line from the middle of the back We divide the panels in half to the side dart (TT4) and from the division point we draw a straight line, perpendicular to the waist line. This is the middle of the dart, its inner fold. The back dart accounts for 5.4 cm, which means we set aside 2.7 cm to the right and left of the middle of the dart. The average length of the back dart is 14-16 cm.
Advice from the book by G.N. Alexandrova
Darts visually expand or narrow the figure. With narrow hips, it is better to shift them 1-2 cm towards the lateral line. And with a full figure, on the contrary, move it 1-2 cm to the middle of the front.
12. We design the front dart in the same way. The length of the front dart is much shorter: 9-11 cm.
Advice from the book by G.N. Alexandrova
If you have a flat stomach, it is better to move the front dart 1-2 cm towards the lateral line. With a protruding belly, on the contrary, move it 1-2 cm to the middle of the front.
For a proportional figure, the darts are designed with lines with a slight deflection (0.1 - 0.2 cm) from the middle to the inside of the dart. 
http://www.season.ru/sovety/modeling/yubki/vik_jubki.html
Skirt for an asymmetrical figure
To understand the material, you must read the article "Study and description of the figure. Zlachevskaya's skirt."
Many ladies can notice a slight asymmetry of the left and right parts of the body when carefully examining themselves in the mirror. Different shoulder heights, curvature of the hips and convexity of the chest - a lot of all sorts of “little bits” make us non-standard.
However, when making clothes, it is customary to hide the fact of asymmetry, and shoulder products are made on the highest shoulder, hiding the different bevel of the shoulder due to the thickness of the shoulder pads.
Skirts are another matter. The waist (belt) area is the supporting one, which is why the products are called waistbands. The skirt should fit tightly around the waist and hips, and clearly “sit” on the convex points. Then it will not shift when moving, spin and ride up. The accuracy of construction is especially important when there is obvious asymmetry of the figure.
Taking measurements for an asymmetrical figure.
Before us is a lady with different steepness of the hips on the left and right and different bulge of the abdomen - Ksenia. Already at the stage of taking measurements, your work will increase.
It is necessary to measure the left and right parts of the body separately, carefully taking the x-s and y-s values. The length measurements on the left and right sides may be different.
All calculations and measurements on the left side will be accompanied by the index L, and on the right side by the index P.
The value of the transverse diameter of the hips D will be taken taking into account the greatest convexity of the abdomen. She is on our left PH=5. So, the measurements have been taken:
Left half Right half DP=102
PHL=5 PHP=4 DBL=103 DBP=104
BHL=4.5 BHP=b D3=106.5
WHL=8.5 ZHL=8.5 OT=107
PYL=8 PYP=6 OB=141
BYL=15 BYP=18 D=45.5
ZYL=19 ZYP=19 d=32
The difference in the measurements of PCL and PCP indicates different abdominal convexity.
The difference in the BHL and BHP measurements is about the different curvature of the hips. Notice also the different heights of the hips.
Perform calculations.
Since the figure is asymmetrical, the calculation and construction are carried out entirely on the entire product in a spread.
Let's calculate the darts: S=OB-OT=141-107=34
There are six of them on the entire product: two front, two side and two back. Since the measurements of the rear darts on the left and right are the same, we can assume that the solutions of the rear darts on the left and right will also be the same.
Calculation of darts for the left half.
RPL=PHL*S: (PHL+BHL+ZHL+PHP+BHP+ZHP)=5*34:(5+4.5+8.5+4+6+8.5)=4.65
RBL=BHL*S: (PHL+BHL+ZHL+PHP+BHP+ZHP)=4.5*34:(5+4.5+8.5+4+6+8.5)=4.19
RZL=ZHL*S: (PHL+BHL+ZHL+PHP+BHP+ZHP)=8.5*34:(5+4.5+8.5+4+6+8.5)=7.91
Calculation of darts for the right half.
RPP=PKhP*S: (PKhL+BKhL+ZKhL+PKhP+BKhP+ZKhP)=4*34:(5+4.5+8.5+4+6+8.5)=3.72
RBP=BHP*S: (PHL+BHL+ZHL+PHP+BHP+ZHP)=6*34:(5+4.5+8.5+4+6+8.5)=5.58
RZP=ZHP*s: (PHL+BHL+ZHL+PHP+BHP+ZHP)=8.5*34:(5+4.5+8.5+4+6+8.5)=7.91
We will need the sum of the darts on the left half, let's calculate it: 4.65+4.19+7.91=16.75
The amount of darts on the right half of the skirt is: 3.72+5.58+7.91=17.21
There are six darts in total. Let's check:
RPL+RBL+RZL+RPP+RBP+RZP=4.65+4.19+7.91+3.72+5.58+7.91=34=S
The first stage of work has been completed, an accurate calculation of the darts has been made, taking into account the asymmetry of the figure. If you sew a skirt with one seam, for example, at the back, the above calculation is enough for a perfect fit.
The question of determining the width of the product panels arises when the skirt model must have side seams and a precisely defined mid-front line.
When constructing a symmetrical figure, we separately calculated the width of the front and back panels of the skirt, explaining this by the different convexity of the abdomen and buttocks. We have derived a formula for calculating section OO1.
OO1=D:2-(d:2+PH) or OO1=(ZH-PH):2
In the model's figure, the X values in the front and back are also different on both sides.
PHL = 5, and ZHL = 8.5 - from the left side. On the right - PHP = 4, and ZHP = 8.5.
Let's take this into account when calculating section OO1 (we use a larger measurement value):
OO1=D:2-(d:2+PH)=45.5:2-(32:2+5)=1.75
On our figure, the situation is further complicated by the different curvature of the hips. The most convex hip will require more fabric. Translated into design language, this means that the width of the front left panel will be less than the width of the front right panel of the skirt. In turn, the width of the rear left panel will be less than the width of the rear right panel of the product. Thus, all four panels of the skirt will have different widths, which must be calculated. How to do this?
You remember how in detail we discussed the calculation of section OO1 in the previous article in the chapter “Applied Geometry”.
In this article, we looked at the figure from the side and calculated OO1 from the values of HH and ZH. Are you familiar with the drawing?
Now imagine that this is a view of the figure from the front. And you see not the bulge of the abdomen and buttocks, but the curvature of the hips. Your task is to calculate the width of the area between the verticals. Let us denote them by the letters A and A1 from the word asymmetry, since the need for this calculation arises only with an asymmetrical figure.
The formula for calculating AA1 is similar to the formula for calculating OO1. Only instead of the deviations of the most convex points along the front and back, let’s substitute the values of the deviations along the left and right hips or the values of BHL and BHP.
AA1=(BHP-BHL):2=(6-4.5):2=0.75
Now you can calculate the width of the panels. The general pattern is this: subtract OO1 from all front parts, add OO1 to all rear parts, subtract (AA1:2) from all left parts, add (AA1:2) to all right parts. We divide the distance between the verticals A and A1 by two so as not to follow the lead of the figure and not to emphasize the asymmetry.
Width of the front left part=OB:4-OO1-AA1:2=141:4-1.75-0.375=33.125
Width of the front right part=OB:4-OO1+AA1:2=141:4-1.75+0.375=33.85
Rear left part width=OB:4+OO1-AA1:2=141:4+1.75-0.375=36.625
Width of the rear right part=OB:4+OO1+AA1:2=141:4+1.75+0.375=37.375
Let's check. The sum of all the widths of the panels should be equal to the circumference of the hips.
33.125+33.85+36.625+37.375=141, which is what was required.
To distribute the side dart, you need to find the left and right arcs at the waist. On asymmetrical figures they are different.
To do this, from the sum of the widths of the left panels, you need to subtract the sum of the left darts and divide the resulting value by two: (69.75-16.75): 2 = 26.5
So, the left arc at the waist on the figure is equal to 26.5, then the arc on the drawing is equal to the arc on the figure plus the dart opening or: 26.5+RPL=26.5+4.65=31.15
Subtracting the arc along the waist in the drawing from the width of the front left panel, we get the part of the left side dart that needs to be removed from the front left panel. In numbers it looks like this: 33.125-31.15=1.975
Therefore, the distribution of the side dart is as follows:
1.975 cm is removed from the front panel, and from the rear panel RBL-1.975 = 2.22 cm.
Let's check the rear part. The width of the back left panel minus the left arc at the waist and the opening of the back left dart should be equal to the part of the side dart that needs to be removed from the back left panel.
36,625-(26,5+7,91)=2,22
We will also calculate the distribution of the side dart for the right side of the product.
Right arc at waist=(71.22-17.21):2=27 cm
Arc according to the drawing: 27+RPP=27+3.72=30.72 cm
Part of the right side dart, which we remove from the front panel:
33.85-30.72=3.13 cm
Part of the right side dart, which we remove from the back panel:
5.58-3.13=2.45 cm
Check on the back part: 37.375-(27+7.91)=2.45 cm.
The calculations are completed. Now you will not only be able to fit the skirt on an asymmetrical figure by accurately determining the openings of the darts, but you will also calculate the width of each panel of the skirt separately. In practice, this guarantees a clear vertical position of the side seams, despite the different curvature of the hips.
We carry out the construction.
Start building from the bottom line. Then determine the middle of the front part, set the width of the left front panel to the left, and the width of the right front panel to the right. Raise the corresponding verticals of the side seams. And so on, gradually, setting aside the appropriate widths and verticals, you form a drawing grid. Applying darts is no different from constructing a regular skirt.
And this is also an application from Galia Zlachevskaya for constructing a skirt according to individual measurements.
Hello dear Ladies! With you - as always - Galia Zlachevskaya.
Last time we completed the construction of the “sticky shell”. The drawing was made for a specific Marya Ivanovna, taking into account her individual physique. The “skinny skirt” nicely fitted the steep hips of its owner, sat on the convex buttocks without distortions or creases, and even a small tummy comfortably occupied the bulge that the front dart formed for it. The strict vertical side seam is simply pleasing to the eye! It’s comfortable for the customer, it’s nice for the cutter, it’s convenient for the tailor! You can immediately take the item “under the machine” and sew it.
Marya Ivanovna has a good figure. People say about such feminine forms: “Everything is in place.” And how are you?
From the numerous mail I have selected several instructive examples, which I propose to analyze together.
Marya Ivanovna was our first example, so we will consider the girl Lida as example No. 2. So, Lida sent us her measurements:
PH=0 PY=0 DP=90 OT=73
BH=5 BY=11 DB= 92OB=85
ZX=0 ZY=0 DZ=90
To some, such measurements may seem strange or incredible. Can such measures even exist? They can! The figure can have any features! Therefore, we will take Lida’s word and work with what she gave us.
Using Lida's example, we will learn how to make increases.
In skirts, increases are made to the waist and hip circumference. If the OB and OT measurements are correctly taken from the figure, it is enough to add two cm to each girth for the freedom of fit. “Long-fitting” means that you can breathe easily, so that you can drink a glass of tea and sit down without unfastening the buttons. If someone is not going to do this - eat, drink, sit and breathe - then you can refuse to increase your waistline.
So, adding 2 cm to the waist, we get: FROM=73+2=75 cm.
When making products from elastic fabrics, the increase in the hips can be zero. However, the use of such fabrics is a special case.
The increase in hips can be more than 2 cm if the skirt is supposed to be worn over several layers of clothing, which is common in our harsh climate. For educational purposes, we will consider the most common option, when the increase is 2 cm: OB=85+2=87 cm.
Let's move on to Lida's calculations. Since you have carefully studied our previous issues, my comments will be brief.
Sum of front, side and back darts:
S=(87-75):2=6 cm
The values of the hip circumference and waist circumference are substituted into the formula, taking into account the increases.
Now we calculate the tuck solutions:
RP=0:(0+5+0)x6=0 (next time, if deviations from the waist are equal to zero, we won’t count, we’ll take zero right away)
RB=5:(0+5+0)х6=6
Despite the simplicity of the calculations, let's check:
RP+RB+RZ=0+6+0=6 cm.
According to our calculations, the openings of the front and rear darts are equal to zero, i.e. in this design they are simply absent. This result leaves some people completely confused. Let's return to the figure and look at it carefully (LIDA). There are no bulges in the abdomen or buttocks. Darts are provided by the cut to create volume in a certain area. And if there is no volume, then why make darts? A very funny answer follows: “That’s how it’s supposed to be,” or “That’s how they usually do it.”
Everything that is “usual” is used on ordinary figures. And the girl Lida has a very unusual figure, frankly speaking, a rare figure. And the cut of the skirt for her will not be ordinary, but suitable only to her figure.
Let's continue our calculations. The measurements sent by Lida do not contain D and d values. Let's try to do without them. Distance OO1, necessary to calculate the width of the front and rear panels, can be found using another formula. It looks like this:
OO1=(ZH-PH):2
It is convenient to use, you will quickly get used to it and give up the D and D measurements. But don't rush to do this! The available values of transverse diameters make it possible to check the overall correctness of the measurements taken, which is very important especially for beginners. They do this according to the formula:
Check it out for yourself on your figures.
When PH and ZH are equal to zero, the verticals drawn from the centers of the ellipses coincide (that is, OO1 = 0). The width of the front and back panels of such figures is the same.
Front piece width=
OB:4-0=21.75 cm
Rear piece width= =OB:4+0=21.75 cm
Important Note: the width of the front and rear panels of the skirt will be equal if the condition PH = 3H is met.
Knowing this for the future, you can skip some of the calculations.
waist FROM:4=75:4= =18.75 cm.
Let's take care of the distribution of the side dart. The front dart opening is zero, so the length of the arc along the waist in the drawing coincides with the length of the arc along the waist in the figure. The same thing, stated in mathematical language:
RP=0; 18.75+0=18.75 cm
To calculate the part of the side dart that needs to be removed from the front panel, subtract the arc at the waist from the width of the front part:
21.75-18.75=3 cm
This makes up half of the side dart.
The fact that the side dart is distributed evenly across the front and back panels of the skirt is a special case. This is typical only for this figure! Sometimes you will encounter such a distribution, but do not relax: this is just an exception to the rule, not a pattern.
The calculations have been completed, now let’s move on to construction.
Draw a horizontal line, which is the line of the bottom of the skirt. We put a notch in the center and lift up a perpendicular, on which we set aside the length of the skirt along the side seam. For example, let’s determine the desired length of the product as 60 cm. 
To the left horizontally we plot the width of the front panel of the skirt along the hip line (according to our calculations, this value is 21.8 cm). To the right - the width of the rear panel along the hip line (21.8 cm).
From the obtained points we build upward perpendiculars to the bottom line, on which we respectively set aside the front length of 58 cm (by the standards of DP and DZ, 2 cm less than DB), and the length of the product at the back is 58 cm.
From the waist along the side seam line we go down by the amount BY = 11 cm. We place the leg of a compass at the resulting point and with a radius equal to BY = 11 cm, draw small arcs to the left and right.
On the front panel along an arc we set aside the size of the calculated side dart (3 cm). To the right, on the back panel, set aside the size of the side dart at the back (3 cm). We connect the resulting points with point R, and the side dart is completed. There are no front or back darts. “Olipochka” is ready!
Let's remember the rule that we derived at the beginning of our lessons:
Clothes that fit well on the figure are a compromise between classic proportions and the individual characteristics of the figure.
Half of the work is done, i.e. Individual features of the figure are taken into account.
The unusual nature of Lida’s figure and the presence of individual characteristics require an individual approach in choosing styles or models of skirts. A regular straight skirt would be inappropriate here.
The large width of the side dart RB = 6 cm suggests the idea of distributing the amount of this solution into two or three darts - as desired. I'll split it into two. The sum of the solutions of the distributed darts should be equal to the original solution, I think this is understandable. New darts should be located precisely in the area of the side seam, since they are determined by the convexity of the front part.
The distance between the darts when stitched should be 3-5 cm. The length of both darts in this case is equal to BY = 11 cm, i.e. the distance of the most convex point of the thigh from the waist. The presence of a side seam in this case is not only not necessary, but also undesirable. This type of straight skirt base is already acceptable.
Developing the theme of selecting individual model features for a specific figure, we can suggest transforming the side darts into raised seams (see pictures on the right and left).
By doing this, we would solve two problems at once: firstly, we would remove the excess at the waist into reliefs, and, secondly, we would break up the front and back panels with verticals, visually making the figure slimmer. This is especially important if there are no front or back darts. 
These are only the most elementary options that can be offered for the given values of HH, BH and ZH. In fact, the variety of possible styles, placement of relief seams and decorative elements that bring Lida’s figure closer to the standard is practically
