In this publication, we will look at knitting one-piece shawl collars on jackets and pullovers. This detail is also called a shawl collar by needlewomen. This element gives a more sophisticated look to one or another knitted product. Every needlewoman who skillfully uses knitting needles can knit it. Most craftswomen, wanting to complement knitted clothing with a similar collar, encounter problems when knitting it, since there are quite a few ways to create it. We offer you several options to work with

Whole knitted shawl on jackets

This collar is knitted from bottom to top along with the placket. To get such a detail, you need to knit eleven stitches according to the following pattern: k1, p1. in this case, you should start with the edge and one face.

Twenty-five to thirty centimeters before the shoulder line, you can begin making extensions for the shawl collar. In this case, it is necessary to knit the buttonholes of the plank, followed by the knit stitch. and next to it, dial 1 purl. cross. stitches from a transverse thread (= thirteen stitches of a one-on-one pattern). Similar increases in loops are carried out further in all sixth rows (r.) and each time in a one-on-one pattern you need to knit two stitches more with knitting needles. This is done until the shawl collar reaches thirty-one stitches in width. After this, you can knit directly to the shoulder line.

At the next stage, you can fasten or remove the shoulder buttonholes onto an additional knitting needle and continue knitting the placket with knitting needles, casting in the first p. at the level of the shoulder cut there is an additional edge. Subsequently, this edge will be hemmed to the back neckline.

To knit the desired width of a shawl collar, follow the outer edge on all sides after every four r. knit with knitting needles five six times shortened r. - approximately three-quarters of all stitches. In a specific example, this is twenty-four p. Such shortened r. need to be knitted with a double crochet or with loops pulled through. In the photo, the shawl collar and shoulder bevels were made using broaching.

Thus, the knitting goes to the middle of the back neckline. Then, all the links must be removed onto an additional spoke. The second half of the front is performed similarly.

At the final stage, the buttonholes of both halves on the right and left sides must be transferred to two knitting needles, respectively, and sewn together using a loop-to-loop stitch. Next, the side edge of the shawl collar is hemmed to the back neckline.

Solid knitted shawl on a pullover

In our next training part of the article, we will look at another method of knitting a shawl collar, this time for pullovers.

In the photo below, we see an example of a knitted pullover with a fairly wide shawl collar. During the knitting process, doubling the middle twelve buttonholes was used to achieve this effect. At the same time, knitting such a collar can be started with six, eight or fourteen and more loop.

First, you should mark the central twelve points of the front of the product. In the case when the left bar needs to go onto the right one, it is necessary to knit the fabric up to the given twelve stitches. After this, knit 1 purl with knitting needles eleven times. cross. p. from a transverse thread and 1 persons. p., the final stitch will be an edge stitch (= twenty-three stitches of the one-on-one pattern). Then they continue to knit the fabric directly in height.

Let's consider another case, when, on the contrary, the right plank overlaps the left one. To do this, you should also knit the fabric up to the given twelve stitches, the first of which is a new edge stitch. Next, alternately knit 1 stitch with knitting needles eleven times. and increase 1 purl. cross. p. from a transverse thread. Then you can continue knitting the main pattern.

After this, as in the first case with the jacket, you should expand the pattern in all sixths of the row. for two buttonholes: knit the loop next to the placket links, add 1 purl next to it. cross. p. from a transverse thread. In the presented example of a pullover, a similar increase in loops was performed nine times (= eighteen additional stitches) or a total of forty-one stitches of the plank.
Knitting continues until the middle of the neckline. Here you need to knit forty-one stitches and the adjacent persons. p. Then, along the inner edge, cast on 1 more additional edge (in order to sew) = forty-three p. To make extensions, starting from the shoulders, after four r. Knit the outer thirty stitches six times.

For the next placket, cast on twenty-three stitches along the inner edge of the top placket.
The buttonholes of the two halves of the collar on both sides must be transferred respectively to two knitting needles and sewn together using a loop-to-loop seam. At the final stage, the finished shawl collar is sewn to the back neckline.

Models with a shawl collar

The shawl collar has one unique property, which is inherent in not many details of the suit - it can give any jacket a very feminine sound. This stunning effect is achieved due to the smoothness of the lines originating at the shoulder line - a shawl collar not only emphasizes the elegance of the neck, but also visually lengthens it. Another undeniable advantage of a shawl collar is that such a collar is quite easy to model and process into a product.

There are two types of shawl collars - one-piece and cut-off collars. We invite you to consider and model patterns for both types of collars. A one-piece shawl collar is built on the basis of a pattern for the front of the product. you can build it yourself and

Rice. 1. Pattern of a one-piece shawl collar

On the pattern of the front of the product, mark the position of the top button. Set aside 1.5 cm from it and place point L0. Along the line of the middle of the shelf, add a half-skid increase of 3 cm, draw a side line. From point L1, draw a vertical segment L1L2 with a length equal to the length of the back neckline along the pattern.

From point L1 with radius L1L2, draw an arc. Along an arc from point L2, set aside the width of the collar rise - L2L3 = 7 cm. Draw the segment L3L4 perpendicular to the segment L1L3 10 cm long, of which 3 cm is the height of the one-piece stand and 7 cm is the width of the collar rise.

Draw the outer line of the collar according to the pattern (points L6 and L7). Cut the top collar one-piece with a collar.

Rice. 2. Pattern of a cut-off shawl collar

To create a pattern for a cut-off shawl collar for a jacket or dress, you need to draw a rectangle - the length of the rectangle is equal to the half-circumference of the neck according to the measurement + 12 cm: 18+12=30 cm.

The width of the rectangle is 13 cm (collar width across the back = 8 cm).

IMPORTANT! The length of the collar depends on the depth of the neckline; for a deeper neckline, the increase must be increased. The length of the collar can be measured from the 7th cervical vertebra by wrapping a flexible measuring tape around the neck and down the front to the desired neckline depth.

Shawl collar sewing line. Set aside 5 cm along the top short side of the rectangle. Draw 2 dotted lines as shown in Fig. 2. Divide each in half and set down 1 cm and 4 cm, respectively. Using the pattern, draw a line for sewing the shawl collar and the outer side of the collar.

A cut-off shawl collar is cut out in two folded parts.

You will find even more patterns and new ideas on the website of Anastasia Korfiati’s Sewing School. Subscribe to free lessons from the School of Sewing and Sew fashionable clothes together with us!

A double-breasted jacket with a shawl collar is knitted in a cable pattern.

Jacket size: 42

Materials: 700 g brown Superwool yarn (100% merino wool, 125 m/50 g) knitting needles No. 4.5 and one auxiliary needle; 6 buttons to match.

Double elastic: Use a contrasting thread to cast on half the required stitches;

1st day: working thread knit *knit 1, yarn over 1*, repeat from * to *;

2nd row: *knit yarn over, remove 1 st as purl, without knitting, thread before work *, repeat from * to *;

3rd and subsequent rows: *K1, remove 1 stitch as purl, thread before work*, repeat from * to *; Unravel the contrasting thread in the finished part.

Elastic band 2/2: alternately knit 2, purl 2.

Purl stitch: persons R. - purl p., out. R. - persons P.

Braid pattern: knit according to the pattern (the width of each individual motif is 16 stitches, between the motifs there are sections of the purl stitch; the diagram shows the relative position of the individual motifs, which begin at different heights).

Knitting density, braid pattern: 27 p. and 22 r. = 10 x 10 cm.

Description of work

Back: cast on 102 p. and knit 6 p. with a double elastic band, then knit with a 2/2 elastic band. 10 cm from the cast-on edge, knit with a braid pattern according to the pattern. After 42 cm from the elastic for bevels, close the armholes on both sides with 1 x 3 sts and then decrease after the first and before the last loops in every 2nd row. 3 x 1 p. After 19 cm from the beginning of the bevels, close the armholes on both sides for each shoulder, 19 p. and set aside the middle 52 p. for the neckline.

Right shelf: cast on 42 sts and knit an elastic band as for the back. Knit with a braid pattern according to the pattern, 37 cm from the elastic band for the neckline, decrease on the right after the first loop in every 2nd r. 4 x 1 p. and in every 4th r. 13 x 1 p. Bevel the armhole on the left, as for the back. After 24 cm from the beginning of the neckline bevel, close off the remaining 19 stitches for the shoulder.

Left shelf: knit symmetrically according to the pattern.

Sleeves: cast on 62 sts and knit an elastic band as for the back. Next, knit with a braid pattern according to the pattern, evenly decreasing in 1 row. 4 sts and then adding on both sides every 14th p. 4 x 1 p. and in every 10th p. 4 x 1 p., knitting loops as they are added as follows: the first 3 added loops are purl. stitch, next knit stitches. satin stitch After 41 cm from the elastic band, close the sleeves on both sides with 1 x 3 stitches and then decrease after the first and before the last stitch in every 2nd row. 9 x 1 p. After 8 cm from the beginning of the sleeve roll, close the remaining 50 p.

Assembly: sew shoulder seams.

For the plank, dial along the edge right shelf and along half of the back neckline, 230 stitches as follows: starting from the middle of the back neckline, cast on 32 stitches and knit with a 2/2 elastic band, casting on the right (towards the right shelf) in every 2nd row. 20 x 3 p., 3 x 6 p. and 1 x 120 p. along the edge of the shelf to the bottom.

After 16 r. from the beginning of the right front panel, make 3 holes for buttons as follows: the first at a distance of 52 sts from the bottom of the shelf, the rest at intervals of 24 sts; After 6 cm, make 3 more holes for buttons, placing them above the previous ones. After 25 cm from the cast-on edge (along the back neckline), knit 4 rows. with a double elastic band and close all the loops with a knitted seam. Knit the second part of the neck strap and the left front flap symmetrically, without holes for buttons.

Execute side seams, sleeve seams and sew in sleeves; sew buttons.

Knitting pattern, pattern and symbols:

Dimensions: 36/38 (46/48)
You will need: 750 (900) g of Superlana linen-colored yarn (100% merino wool, 110 m/50 g); knitting needles No. 4.5.
Rubber: alternately knit 2, purl 2.
Facial surface: persons R. - persons p., out. R. - purl P.
Openwork pattern: the number of loops is a multiple of 14 + 2 chrome.
Knit according to pattern 1, which shows only knit rows, purl rows. Knit loops according to the pattern, knit yarn overs.
Start with 1 chrome. and loops before rapport, repeat repeat, end with loops after repeat and 1 chrome.
Make sure that the number of yarn overs corresponds to the number of loops knitted together or instead of pulling them through and vice versa.
Repeat 1 time from the 1st to the 30th r., then repeat from the 3rd to the 30th r.
Braid A (6 sts wide): knit according to diagram 2, which shows only the front r., in the purl r., knit all the loops purl.
Repeat from 1st to 8th row.
Braid B (6 sts wide): knit like braid A, but according to pattern 3.
Repeat from 1st to 8th row.
Knitting density. Rubber: 24 p. and 26 r. = 10 x 10 cm; openwork pattern: 20.5 p. and 26 r. = 10 x 10 cm; braid A and B: 8 p. = 2.5 cm wide.
Back: cast on 116 (148) sts and knit between edges. 6 cm with an elastic band, starting and ending with 2 knits.
Then knit openwork pattern, while evenly reducing in the 1st r. from elastic 2 (6) p. = 114 (142) p.
After 14 (13) cm from the elastic band, decrease 1 stitch on both sides for fitting and alternately in every 4th and 6th row. 10 x 1 p. = 92 (120) p.
After 41 (37) cm from the elastic band, add 1 stitch on both sides and in every 8th row. 2 x 1 p. = 98 (126) p., including added loops to the pattern.
After 50 (46) cm from the elastic band, close the armholes on both sides with 4 stitches, in every 2nd row. 2 x 2 and 3 x 1 p. and in the next 4 p. 1 x 1 p. = 74 (102) p.
After 70 cm from the elastic band, close the shoulder bevels on both sides with 5 (7) sts and in every 2nd p. 3 x 5 (8) p.
Simultaneously with the 1st shoulder decrease, close off the middle 22 (28) stitches for the neckline and finish both sides separately.
To round, close from the inner edge in every 2nd r. 1 x 4 and 1 x 2 p.
Finish the work after 72.5 cm from the elastic band.
Left shelf: cast on 64 (78) sts and knit as follows: chrome, 44 (58) elastic sts, starting with k2. (purl) and ending with purl 2, 6 sts of braid A, 12 elastic sts, starting with purl 2. and ending with 2 persons, chrome.
After 6 cm from the cast-on edge, start knitting the first 45 (59) stitches with an openwork pattern, while in the 1st row. decrease 2 sts evenly = 62 (76) sts.
Run with right side fitted, as on the back.
After 47 cm from the cast-on edge, add a shawl collar between the 5th and 4th stitches from the end to the edge. from broach 2 p. (= 1 knit and 1 knit cross)
In the future, knit these two stitches. stitch and from the previous broach add in every 2nd r. 2 x 1, 1 x 2, 12 x 1 p., in every 4th p. 4 x 1 p. and in every 6th p. 6 x 1 p., including added loops according to the ribbed pattern.
After 50 cm from the cast-on edge, knit both loops to the braid together for the inner extension of the collar. and after the braid, add 1 cross from the broach. etc., including it in a ribbed pattern.
Repeat these decreases and additions another 7 (10) times every 8th (6th) p.
Make an armhole and a shoulder bevel on the right side, as on the back.
On the remaining 50 (53) stitches, knit another 13 (15) cm along the pattern with an elastic band and then set these loops aside.
Right shelf: knit symmetrically and with a B braid.
Sleeves: cast on 52 (64) sts and knit between the edges. 18 cm ribbed, starting and ending with k2.
Then knit in an openwork pattern, starting between the edges. from 4 (3) sts before the rapport, repeat the rapport 3 (4) times and end with the first 4 (3) sts after the rapport.
At the same time, add sleeves from the elastic for bevels on both sides every 6th r. 11 x (alternately in every 4th and 6th p. 13 x) 1 p. = 74 (90) p., including added loops to the pattern.
After 26 cm from the elastic band, close the sleeves for piping on both sides with 2 (3) sts, in every 2nd r. 1 x 2 and 5 (4) x 1 p., in every 4th p. 2 x 1 p. and in every 2nd p. 3 x 1, 4 x 2 and 1 (2) x 3 p.
After 41 cm from the elastic, bind off the remaining 24 (34) sts.
Assembly: perform shoulder seams; sew the set aside loops of the collar with a knitted seam and sew the collar to the back neckline, slightly pressing the collar.
Sew in the sleeves, sew side seams and sleeve seams.