Hi all!

A long time ago, when “all the trees were big” for me, I often happened to meet such aunts, on whose skirts hooks served as fasteners. big hooks sewn with thick, coarse threads. Then, not understanding anything, I thought that the hook-and-loop closure was from laziness and poverty.

In general, this is both true and not true. So, because during the time of the total Soviet shortage, there was nothing else, and even in sufficient quantity and variety. You can’t buy buttons, buttons are generally something from the world of fantasy.

But not like that, because as I got older I realized that sewing hooks correctly and accurately is not so simple.

Many years have passed since then, and the hooks are still alive! And they will live for a very, very long time! Because the hook fastener is very strong and reliable.

Now, in our time, I have radically changed my attitude towards hooks. And I consider them full members of the “furniture” community.

Now lovers of sewing have another problem, no less difficult - the problem of choice. The problem is to choose correctly what is needed, what is suitable.

Well, it's time to get to know the hooks better. There are hooks - simple sew-on, trouser and fur coat.

Hooks are simple sewn.

Ordinary traditional sew-on hooks are the fighters of the "invisible front", they are never flaunted.

They are designed to make a hidden fastener, which in no case should be visible from the front side of the product.

As a rule, sewing hooks are located on the product just above the zipper (skirts and trousers without a belt) or on the waist line, on the belt itself. The location of the hook just above the zipper is done to ensure that the hook will not allow the slider of the zipper to go down under pressure and will not allow the sides of the zipper to spread out randomly during movement.

On the waist line, sewn-on hooks play the role of an additional safety detail for the zipper, and they also perform the task of a full-fledged fastener on the belt. In general, hooks can completely replace the traditional row of buttons or zippers.

The most common traditional sewing hooks have also not bypassed technical progress. Sew-on hooks release different manufacturers, from different metals. For example, brass, nickel, mild steel, all kinds of metal compounds (alloys), etc.

On sale you can find a wide variety of shapes, colors and sizes of hooks. Black, white, gray, silver, gold, blackened, nickel-plated, large and small, familiar shapes and curved in a new, modern way.

The size of the sewing hook is determined by the length of both (interlocked) parts of the hook, directly by the hook and loop itself. For example, sewing hooks can be 1, 1.4, 1.8, 3, 3.5 cm long, etc.

Hooks come in several sizes. But when choosing hooks, I think it is hardly very important what size is written on the package. I don't think it's worth dwelling on it. It will be sufficient to visually compare appearance and the dimensions of the hook with the part on which it will be "placed".

But the material from which the hook is made is very important to choose the right one. After all, the finished thing will need to be washed. So that hooks with rust do not spoil the life of either the finished product or its owner, you need to choose hooks from materials that do not corrode, do not rust. It can be nickel, brass or some other metal with a corrosion protection coating.

In general, choose hooks from manufacturers you trust, whose products you are already familiar with and have worked with. Or those unfamiliar, but who do not hide any information about their products (hooks), but on the contrary, they convey it to the consumer in every possible way. For example, on packages.

Large sew-on hooks are sold in one pair, and smaller ones are sold in packs, in blisters or sewn onto cardboard strips. From which customers cut off the required number of hooks and eyelets.

How to sew sew on hooks with loops?

Despite the fact that sewing hooks sometimes look quite different from each other, the technology for sewing them to the product is very very similar.

1. Both the hook and the loop, these two parts of the sewing hook, are placed on the product invariably horizontally and only on the wrong side or under the “cover” of other parts.

Consider this option for sewing a hook on a skirt belt.

As everyone knows, on female models clothes, the right edge of the fastener always finds itself on the left. Therefore, one part of the sewing hook, the hook itself, should be located on the product (when viewed from the front side on ready product) on the left, on the inside of the belt, and the other part, the loop, on the right. Then the hook with a natural movement of the hand along the fastener will easily hook into the loop.

2. The threads for sewing on such a hook are selected in the color of the main fabric. Under the thickness of the thread, of the appropriate size, so that the punctures from the needle are small. You cannot tie a knot at the end of the thread.

3. So that there are no traces of the presence of sewing hooks on the front side of the product, you need to use the tip of the needle, with a tucked, doubled thread, to stick inside the material and make one stitch so that the end of the thread is lost in the material. And then, “trampling” on the chosen place, you need to gain a foothold on it by making a few stitches

4. Both hook and loop are sewn to the product in two ways. Which one to choose depends on the shape of the hook. After all, as you could see by looking at the picture in the article above, hooks and loops come with closely spaced sides of the base and widely spaced.

1st option (1 in the picture below). We sew in three places. In both holes on both parts, 3-4 securing stitches are made and 3-4 stitches across, the two sides of the base of the hook and loop are sewn together.

2nd option (2 in the picture below). We sew in four places. As well as in previous version, 3-4 securing stitches are made in both holes on both parts, and then 3-4 stitches across, the hooks and loops are sewn on, but each side is separate.

5. After making a few stitches back with the needle again, to secure the ends of the thread, you need to pull it out of the material far to the side and carefully cut it close to the surface of the material.

6. Sometimes, in order to make the fastener on sewn hooks even less noticeable or more plastic, flexible, then instead of a metal loop, a loop of thread can be made in pair with the hook. You can read how it is done

But the clasp on the model can be fastened end-to-end, or maybe overlapped. The sewing hook on these two types of models is located differently.

How to correctly position the sew-on hooks and loops on models with a butt closure?

On models with a butt closure, the hook itself is positioned so that its top is up to 3 mm from the edge of the fabric. And the other part of the sewing hook - the loop, should protrude beyond the edge of the fabric by the same distance.

This is done so that when the loop and hook are connected (engaged with each other), the edges of the fastener come together butt to each other.

How to correctly position the sew-on hooks and loops on models with an overlap closure?

If sew-on hooks perform the tasks of a full-fledged fastener on the model, then, like other, ordinary fasteners (on buttons, buttons or zippers), sew-on hooks should also be located on the product.

If the sewing hooks will be located on the waistline, on the belt, the edges of which are overlapped, then the first thing to start with is to sew one part of the sewn hook - the hook itself, on the left, inner side of the belt (if you look at the fastener from the front side) . It must be sewn from the short transverse edge of the belt, at a distance that is equal to the length of the loop.

Pick up the second part on the sewn hook, the loop on the sewn hook. And keeping them as stretched as possible in different directions, as if they were already working,

close the zipper and look at the end of the belt with right side, where is the place where the loop should be located.

And with the help of pins, attach the loop to this place.

The front part of the button is installed together with the hook
punching a hole.
Further, if there is a need (and this is most often), we slightly expand the cylindrical part of the button using a hammer and dowel (punch or beard).
And directly install the hook with the available nozzle.

It may well happen that the cylindrical part of the button did not flare to the end and some notches and irregularities remained.
Correct this error with a flat screwdriver
We put a screwdriver inside the hook and additionally push it with a nozzle. If you don't have a screwdriver handy, use a coin. The flaring area is larger and, as a result, the strength of the installed part increases.
Then proceed to the installation of the lower part We install using the same nozzle with which the hook itself was installed. As a bottom stand, we use a nozzle to install any button

If you do not have enough parts to install the hook kit, you can use parts from button No. 61 (ring)
If the cylindrical part of the part is longer than necessary, then it should be shortened. See above - how the button was shortened.
In case of poor-quality flaring, it is enough to put a screwdriver blade and push it again.

Turkish hooks are installed in the same way.
Most often, you have to do repairs: i.e. installing one of the hook parts. Orders for new products are rare. Many customers simply do not know that instead of a button on the belt (trousers, skirts), you can install a hook.

The hook on the trousers holds a greater load than the button. Try to convince the customers of this and replace the button with a hook.

Hooks and loops are always used there. where you want to fasten the fastener firmly, but not noticeable from the front side of the product. The clasp is made on a material folded in half and reinforced with interlining.

Hooks and loops are different sizes, by color - black and nickel-plated (silver colors). Most hook loops come in two forms: a straight flat loop for overlapping fasteners and a round loop for butting the ends of a fastener.

AT THE APPLIED EDGES

The hook is sewn on the wrong side of the upper edge of the fastener, and the flat loop is sewn on the front side of the lower edge of the fastener. Hooks and loops are sewn with frequent overcasting or buttonhole stitches, while sewing the hook, do not bring the needle to the front side (1).

There are particularly strong hooks and loops in different widths for fastening the belts of skirts or trousers (2).

ON THE EDGES OF THE BUTT

Hooks and loops are sewn on the wrong side of the product, while the end of the hook is almost at the very edge of the fastener, and the loop protrudes slightly beyond the edge. Needle holes should not be visible on the right side of the fabric (3).

Buttons

Buttons for sewing on come in various sizes, made of metal - black and nickel-plated (silver colors) or made of plastic. On the fastened edges of the fastener, such buttons are not visible from the outside. The clasp on the buttons is also made on the material folded in half and reinforced with interlining. The upper part of the button (with a pin) is sewn from the wrong side of the upper edge of the fastener, the lower part of the button (with a cup) is sewn from the front side of the lower edge of the fastener.

HOW TO SEW ON A BUTTON

On the wrong side of the upper edge of the fastener, mark the place for sewing on the button. Sew on the top of the button with overcasting stitches. Then mark the place for sewing the bottom of the button. To do this, rub the rod of the upper part of the button with chalk and press it on the lower edge of the fastener. If the chalk dot on the fabric is not visible, then you should pierce the rod with a pin and stick it into the lower edge of the fastener (5). Mark the puncture point with a pin.

For those who want to have a spectacular fastener, but do not want to overcast buttonholes and sew on buttons, there are punching buttons in various colors and sizes, in the form of ready-made kits that are sold in haberdashery stores.

These buttons can be punched with a hammer (6) or even faster and easier with special pliers (7). Exact instructions are included with each kit.

IMPORTANT: the places for fastening the buttons should be marked on both edges of the fastener. Each push button always consists of two upper and two lower parts. When punching the button parts, make sure that the cap of the top of the button is on the front side of the top edge of the clasp, and the pin is on the wrong side of the top edge of the clasp, the plate of the bottom of the button is on the wrong side of the bottom edge of the clasp, and the cup is on the front side of the bottom edge of the clasp .

Braid for fastening

There are three types of this tape: for a butt fastener - a tape with hooks and loops, for an overlap fastener - a tape with buttons and a Velcro contact tape.

BAND WITH HOOK AND LOOP (8) consists of two parts, sewn under the edges of the fastener on the wrong side of the product, while the hooks must be closed by the edge of the fabric. The loops may protrude slightly from the edge and should line up exactly with the hooks.

BAND WITH BUTTONS (9) consists of two parts: one with the upper parts of the buttons, the other with lower parts. The braid with the upper parts of the buttons is sewn on the wrong side of the upper edge of the fastener, the braid with the lower parts of the buttons is sewn on the front side of the lower edge of the fastener. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the parts of the button match.

THE VELCRO CONTACT TAPE (10) also consists of two parts: one part of the tape has a tenacious surface and is sewn onto the front side of the lower edge of the fastener. The other part of the braid has a fleecy surface and is sewn on the wrong side of the upper edge of the fastener.

How to sew on a trouser hook? Although they say trouser hooks, they can be used as fasteners on a wide variety of skirts, shorts, raincoats, jackets, etc. These hooks are already much stronger, if I may say so, heavier than simple sew-on hooks and can hold fastener edges on products made of very strong and thick fabrics. Like simple, sewn-on hooks with loops, trouser hooks are made by different manufacturers, from different metals, in a variety of shapes and sizes. But trouser hooks have evolved much more than simple sew-on hooks, and are already more diverse in terms of the composition of component parts and methods of attachment to the product. At present, there are types trouser hooks : sewn-on trouser hook with eyes; sewn trouser hook with adjustable loops; hook - button; trouser hook on spikes. Hook trouser sewn with eyes. All those trouser hooks, sewn on, with eyes, which can be purchased at various specialized stores selling sewing accessories, are very different from each other in appearance. And the eyes for which such a hook is attached to the product can be a different number. And 5, and 6, and 7 pcs. But they consist, all trouser hooks are sewn on, with eyes, always only from two parts. The first detail, the hook itself. It is usually a differently curved metal plate. The second piece is the loop. A narrow metal plate is a frame, much smaller in size than the first. And any pair of such trouser hooks is sewn to the product like this. Small, round eyes are sewn with 3-4 stitches, and large oblong eyes, in rows of parallel stitches, which are laid close to each other. Trouser hooks, sewn on, with eyes, are designed for making only hidden fasteners and only overlapping fasteners. And they are always sewn on so that they are not visible from the front side. Such hooks act as if in addition to the zipper on the waist line, on the belt. They protect the zipper from breakage and divergence of its sides during operation. Now let's see how such a couple is located directly on the product. How to sew on trouser hooks? 1. First, a needle and thread, matched to each other and to the main color tone of the product, is passed through the upper layers of the material, at the place where the hook will be located. With this first stitch, you need to bring the end of the thread inside the material, and then with a few stitches back the needle, fasten the thread to the product. First, on the left, inner side of the belt, a hook is sewn (when viewed from the front side). 2. Then, the loop must be hooked onto the hook. As if they are already working. 3. And holding the loop with your fingers, close the zipper to the end. Or vice versa, first close, and then insert a loop into the hook. Doesn't matter. 4. "Terrain", at the other end of the belt, where it lies, the loop is "reprinted" and there is a place to which it needs to be attached. First with pins so that the loop does not move, and then with a needle and thread, stitches, it is fixed to this place. This is how a sewn-in trouser hook with eyes is sewn, in addition to the zipper, which is located on the clothing models in the seam, in the center. On trousers and other types of clothing, where the zipper is slightly shifted to the left side of the center (when viewed from the front side), such a hook is made in the same way. Only, due to the fact that the zipper in such fasteners is moved, the loop also shifts slightly away from it. If such hooks completely replace the usual fastener (buttons, zipper), then the hook-to-loop engagement line should be located on the product along the middle line of the fastener. On men's clothing, where the edges of the fastener are on top of each other from left to right, the trouser hooks are made in the same way, but only in a mirror image. How much to place sewn-on trouser hooks with eyes on the product depends on the width of the belt, the shape and length of both ends.

Before stitching knitted fabrics, they need to be properly prepared for this. In order for the finished product to have a beautiful presentable appearance and fit well on the figure, sew knitted details it is only necessary in the correct sequence and with a suitable knitted seam.To do this, you need to follow some rules that will be discussed in this article.

The main secrets for connecting parts:

1. To connect the parts, it is better to use the threads from which the knitted fabric is knitted. The exception is unspun threads, decorated, in the form of a cord. In this case, sew the parts with a flat, strong thread of a similar color. Make sure that this thread is strong and does not shed when washed.
2. It is possible to correctly assemble a product from parts only by observing a strict sequence of all operations. First of all, iron the finished parts and let them dry. Then baste them and measure the product to make sure it fits well.
3. It is better to perform seams in the following sequence: shoulder, side and sleeve seams. Sew the sleeves into the armholes last. The finishing work is completed.
4. Do not use too long thread when sewing. It should not be more than 45 cm. The constant friction of the thread on the fabric can cause the thread to break.
5. Try to keep the thread tension even when sewing. Make sure the seam forms a neat straight line. If the seam is horizontal, focus on the loops of one row, if vertical - on the vertical row of one loop. To help you see the seam line more clearly, run a contrasting basting thread through the desired stitches or row.
6. If the two flyers you are sewing are slightly different in length, you can eliminate this defect by lightly fitting into the seam. The difference in length should not exceed 1.5 cm. Otherwise, one of the parts will have to be redone.
7. Details of the product, such as a golf collar or cuffs with a lapel, are sewn in a special way. Half of the seam (to the fold of the part) is made on the front side, the rest - on the wrong side. As a result, the edges of the seam will be inside the part and will not be visible.
8. If you have left long end from the cast-on edge, you can use this thread. To make a neat connection along the bottom edge, use the suggested technique.

Knitted seam with closed loops

Stitching the details with a knitted seam will make it almost invisible in the product. The parts to be sewn are laid out on a flat surface, if necessary, they can be ironed. The needle is inserted behind the loop located above the closed loops on the upper canvas (Fig. 1). In the same way, the needle is inserted into the loop of the bottom row of the canvas. After a few centimeters, the thread is tightened (Fig. 2).

Knitted seam with open loops

The lowered loop is picked up with a needle, then the next loop is grabbed and the thread is pulled, after which the loop is thrown off the knitting needle (Fig. 3). On the lower part of the bar, a lowered loop is picked up with a needle, and then, inserting the needle from the bottom up, grab the next loop and pull the thread (Fig. 4).

The connection of the equity and transverse canvases

With this seam, you can sew certain parts of the product: back and sleeve, sleeve and front shelves.

First, the needle picks up the loop below the closed ones and pulls the thread (Fig. 5). After that, a needle is inserted, the broach is picked up between the edge and the next loop and the thread is pulled out. Repeat this sequence alternately. After a few centimeters, the thread is tightened (Fig. 6).

Vertical seam for the front surface

The parts to be sewn are placed on a flat surface, if necessary, they are ironed. The needle is picked up by a broach between the edge and the first loop and the thread is pulled out (Fig. 7). On the other half of the product, the needle picks up the broach between the opposite edge and the next loop and pulls the thread. Alternately repeat these steps on each of the stitched halves. After a few centimeters, the thread is tightened (Fig. 8).

Vertical seam for wrong side

The seam for the wrong side is made according to the same principle as the seam for the front. The needle is inserted into the broach between the edge and the next loop and the thread is pulled out (Fig. 9). Then the needle is inserted into the broach between the opposite edge and the next loop and the thread is pulled out. After 3 cm, slightly tighten (Fig. 10).

This stitch is popular with many knitters. It is quite simple to perform, does not tighten the product and is almost invisible. The seam must necessarily pass below the row of closed loops, otherwise the front side will be visible closed loops. The needle and thread are inserted between the loops without damaging them. The stitch is led back, the working thread is drawn forward along the wrong side, it is brought out in front of the previous stitch at an equal distance with it. When making a “stitch” seam, it is imperative to turn the product over from time to time and check how the seam looks from the front side (Fig. 11).

chain stitch

In appearance, the chain stitch resembles a chain consisting of air loops (Fig. 12). It is often used when embroidering on knitwear, when processing the neck, armholes and bottom of the product.

When making a chain stitch, the thread is fixed on the wrong side of the fabric. The needle is brought out to the front side, inserted into the hole from where the thread comes out, having previously thrown the main thread from right to left to form a large loop. Then the needle is pulled out, holding the thread with the left hand, and the loop is tightened. To perform the next stitch, the needle is inserted inside the previous one. Each link seems to emerge from the other.

A prerequisite for the execution of the chain stitch is the exact matching of the stitches to each other in size. Making a chain stitch on the neck of the product will help make it more even and neat.

Kettelny seam

Experienced knitters use the kettle stitch to sew on certain details: trims, pockets, trims. In addition, horizontal cuts on the canvas are processed with this seam or the loops of the last row are fixed.

Before attaching parts of the product, they are well ironed. This makes it easier to work, and the seam is even and neat. The edge of the part that you are going to sew with a kettle seam should end with three or four front rows. Open loops are also carefully ironed.

In order to make a stitch, the needle is inserted from the inside into the second loop, then from the top into the first and then pulled out from the bottom up through the third loop. After that, the needle is inserted from top to bottom again into the second loop and pulled through the fourth from the bottom up (Fig. 14).

The neck or trim sewn with a kettle seam retains its shape and beautiful appearance for a long time (Fig. 15).

For open elastic loops, a special seam is suitable.

The auxiliary thread should be used to knit two additional rows. Details need to be steamed with wet gauze.

After that, the rows from the auxiliary thread are removed.

Prepared parts are placed on a horizontal plane. The needle is inserted into the first 2 loops of the lower part.

After pulling up the thread, the needle should be inserted into 2 corresponding loops of the upper part, continuing to pull the thread.

After sewing one side of the elastic, you should close the loops on the other side. Then, having aligned both sides of the elastic, you need to insert a needle into 2 adjacent loops of the lower part. Inserting a needle into 2 corresponding loops of the upper part, you should tighten the thread.