Sewing tricks and tips. How to properly sew or install a trouser hook? How to sew a hook to a dress

How to sew hooks beautifully and correctly? Where and when is this necessary? Let's consider some points:
- V finished products: skirt, coat, trousers;
- in linen products -

In finished products: Wedding Dress, skirt, coat, trousers.

Hooks and loops are used in products if:
— an imitation of a fastener on a dress is necessary. Let me explain - decorative buttons are sewn on for beauty, and underneath there is a hook-and-loop closure
- when it is difficult to choose buttons to match the color of the product;
- when the fabric of the product is very thick: drape, denim;
- V men's trousers;
— when your machine does not perform the “loop” function;
- or in addition to a fastener to strengthen a specific place on the product. Let me explain: a woman has big breasts and wears tight blouses. As a rule, the clasp diverges at the chest line. This is where a hook and loop is needed.

What types of hooks and loops are there?

Various sizes and shapes; made of metal and plastic; covered decorative; for linen and outerwear, also hand-made loops,

It’s easier with hooks; they are mostly not visible on the front side. But ready-made loops do not always fit. Then we make it by hand. How to do it? We count the width of the loop and the number of loops, multiply this figure by 4, and get the required length to make the cord for the loop. The length can be longer, cutting off the excess is not difficult. If only one loop is needed, use 10cm for calculation. Watch the video tutorial below.

How to sew hooks and loops on linens?

If you sew bras and panties for yourself, then you have encountered. It is often not possible to select a ready-made bra clasp based on color, length and number of rows of loops. It’s very easy to do it yourself, get a FREE master class on making a pattern for a fastener and the sequence of sewing a fastener
It will not be difficult for you to lengthen and calculate a pattern of any width and any number of loops. It is necessary to take into account the distance between hooks and loops on both sides, and leave 07cm-1cm for the width of the pattern.
Speaking of underwear. Sewing linen is not difficult. By studying my lessons you can have a wonderful collection of underwear.

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The front part of the button is installed together with the hook
punch a hole.
Next, if necessary (and this is most often), slightly expand the cylindrical part of the button using a hammer and a dowel (punch or punch).
And directly install the hook with the available nozzle.

It may well happen that the cylindrical part of the button has not fully flared and some nicks and irregularities remain.
Correct this error using a flat screwdriver
Place the screwdriver inside the hook and press it further with the nozzle. If you don't have a screwdriver handy, insert a coin. The flaring area is larger and, as a result, the strength of the installed part increases.
Then we move on to installing the lower part We install using the same nozzle with which we installed the hook itself. As a lower stand we use an attachment for installing any button

If you do not have enough parts to install the hook kit, you can use parts from button No. 61 (ring)
If the cylindrical part of the part turns out to be longer than necessary, then it should be shortened. See above how the button was shortened.
In case of poor-quality flaring, it is enough to place a screwdriver blade and press it again.

Turkish hooks are installed in the same way.
Most often you have to do repairs: i.e. installing one of the hook parts. Orders for new products are rare. Many customers simply do not know that instead of a button on a belt (pants, skirts) you can install a hook.

The hook on the trousers holds more load than the button. Try to convince customers of this and replace the button with a hook.

We still have some interesting ones sewing tricks for us who sew. It turns out that sewing a hook neatly is not at all difficult. You just need to take the right thread.

But in this way you can easily lay out the folds. And I somehow struggled with the insertion into the blouse, several times I hemmed it and stitched it again in places so that there were even folds.

We laid the folds evenly, now, so that they do not run away, we squeak them with masking tape, and we will sew (if necessary) along the transverse clearings, between the strips of tape. Well, how simple!

Here helpful advice Very. Those fabrics that are difficult to sew and thick seams are much easier to sew through a piece of bag; the needle glides better than on tracing paper. You just need a transparent package.

But delicate fabrics, on which the foot does not slip, are easier to sew by gluing pieces of tape onto the foot. The painting again is removed without leaving a trace.

An easy way to always keep thread scissors handy. We glue the plastic hook in a convenient place on the machine (such hooks are already sold with an adhesive layer)

Glue a couple of magnets on reverse side saucers to prevent the pins from falling apart.

Interesting pocket

Correct pocket: exact location (1″ = 2.54 cm), the rest is easy to calculate

How to sew Velcro

  • When we cut, we try to do it without touching the hooks and loops that make up the Velcro. Cut to exactly the right size
  • Let's now match the hooks and loops in several places - for stability
  • We set the thread tension for medium or heavy weight fabrics.
  • Let's make sure that the needle in the machine is sharp and super strong and lubricate it with lubricant.
  • If there is one, we will replace the foot with a special one. If there is no such foot, we direct the needle to the left or to the right - depending on the side that we are sewing and sew exactly along the edge.
  • You can use beeswax to lubricate the needle.
  • Never use Velcro that has an adhesive side; it will only make sewing more difficult and smear the needle.

A tricky way to make a beautiful frill right away sewing machine

Pockets

Hooks and loops are firmly sewn onto the collar of a winter coat, jacket, overcoat, trouser waistband, skirt waistband, etc. And yet, despite the strong initial sewing, they often come off.

A hook and loop is sewn to the collar of a winter coat as follows. A fur or fabric collar is torn off from the collar where the hooks and loops will be located, then the damaged areas are repaired with hand stitches; fasten the ends of the collar to the lapels, firmly sew the edge of the collar to the collar, etc. After this, sew a hook and loop to the collar.

For strength, 6-8 cm long pieces of edge B are threaded into the eye of the loop and hook (Fig. 25).

: A - hook; B - loop; B - edge.

Each hook is sewn to the collar in three places with 5-6 through stitches, and the loop in four places.

The ends of the edge, threaded into the eye of the hook and loop, are laid on top of each other and both edges are firmly sewn to the collar (Fig. 25).

Then the ends of the fur or fabric collar are repaired at the hook and loop locations. The fur is repaired with ordinary hemming stitches from the inside out, and the fabric collar is repaired with piece stitches.

After repair, small holes are made in the ends of the collar into which the hook and loop heads are passed, securing each head with 4-5 through stitches. After this, the torn sections of the collar are sewn to the collar using hemming stitches.

All work is done with thread No. 10 or 20.

In the same sequence, sew a hook and loop to the collar of an overcoat and jacket.

Hook and loop sewn to trouser waistband in the following way. The edge of the codpiece, on both sides of the place where the hook is sewn, is torn off from the edge of the front half of the trousers. The hook with the edge pulled through the eye is placed 4-5 mm from the edge of the half, exactly above the seam of the belt.

The hook is sewn to the half by the eye in three places; Each ear is sewn on with 5-6 stitches. The ends of the edge are straightened along the seam of the belt and both edges are firmly sewn with hemming stitches to the half of the trousers, after which the codpiece is carefully straightened and its edge is attached to the edge of the front half of the trousers with frequent stitches.

For sewing on a loop To the right half of the trousers, tear off the lining from the belt where the loop is located, then use a darn to repair the damaged fabric at the location of the loop. After this, two small holes are made in the trouser half, through which both ends of the loop are passed. A piece of edge c is threaded into the loop ears that protrude from the wrong side of the part. 6-7 cm, its ends are straightened along the seam of the belt and both edges are firmly sewn with hemming stitches to the seam of the belt; At the same time, sew on the loop ears using 5-6 stitches, carefully straighten the lining and sew it to the slope and belt. All areas of the product are tightly ironed from the inside out.

Hooks and loops are sewn to the end of the skirt's waistband in the same way as to the collar, but without the edge.

Hooks and loops always use there. where it is necessary to fasten the fastener firmly, but not noticeably from the front side of the product. The clasp is made on double-folded material reinforced with interlining.

There are hooks and loops different sizes, by color - black and nickel-plated (silver). Most hooks have two types of loops: a straight flat loop for an overlap fastener and a round loop for joining the edges of a butt fastener.

ON LAPED EDGES

The hook is sewn on the wrong side of the top edge of the clasp, and the flat loop is sewn on the right side of the bottom edge of the clasp. Hooks and loops are sewn with frequent overlock or loop stitches, while sewing on the hook, do not bring the needle to the front side (1).

For fastenings on the waistbands of skirts or trousers, there are especially strong hooks and loops of various widths (2).

AT THE EDGES OF THE CLAPES BUTT

Hooks and loops are sewn onto the wrong side of the product, with the end of the hook located almost at the very edge of the fastener, and the loop protrudes slightly beyond the edge. The needle punctures should not be visible on the front side of the fabric (3).

Buttons

Sew on buttons They come in different sizes, made of metal - black and nickel-plated (silver color) or made of plastic. On the buttoned edges of the clasp, such buttons are not visible from the outside. The fastening with buttons is also made on double-folded material reinforced with interlining. The upper part of the button (with the rod) is sewn on the wrong side of the upper edge of the fastener, the lower part of the button (with the cup) is sewn on the front side of the lower edge of the fastener.

HOW TO SEW A BUTTON

On the wrong side of the top edge of the fastener, mark where the button will be sewn. Sew the top of the button using overlock stitches. Then mark where to sew the bottom of the button. To do this, rub the rod of the upper part of the button with chalk and press it onto the lower edge of the fastener. If the chalk point on the fabric is not visible, then you should pierce the rod with a pin and insert it into the lower edge of the fastener (5). Mark the puncture point with a pin.

For those who want to have an impressive fastener, but do not want to overcast loops and sew on buttons, there are punching buttons various colors and sizes, in the form of ready-made sets that are sold in haberdashery stores.

These buttons can be punched using a hammer (6) or even faster and easier - using special pliers (7). Exact instructions are included with each kit.

IMPORTANT: The places where the buttons are attached should be marked on both edges of the fastener. Each punched button always consists of two upper and two lower parts. When punching the button parts, make sure that the cap of the top of the button is on the front side of the top edge of the clasp, the shank is on the back side of the top edge of the clasp, the plate of the bottom of the button is on the back side of the bottom edge of the clasp, and the cup is on the front side of the bottom edge of the clasp .

Fastening tape

There are three types of this braid: for a butt fastener - braid with hooks and loops, for an overlap fastener - braid with buttons and Velcro contact tape.

HOOK AND LOOP BRAND (8) consists of two parts, sewn under the edges of the fastener from the wrong side of the product, while the hooks should be covered by the edge of the fabric. The loops may extend slightly beyond the edge and must line up exactly with the hooks.

BRAND WITH BUTTONS (9) consists of two parts: one with the upper parts of the buttons, the other with lower parts. The braid with the upper parts of the buttons is sewn on the wrong side of the upper edge of the fastener, the braid with the lower parts of the buttons is sewn on the front side of the lower edge of the fastener. In this case, you must ensure that the parts of the button match.

VELCRO CONTACT TAPE (10) also consists of two parts: one part of the braid has a grippy surface and is sewn onto the front side of the lower edge of the fastener. The other part of the braid has a fleecy surface and is sewn onto the wrong side of the upper edge of the fastener.