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Sewing tops and T-shirts is quick and easy. Part 2.

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Good afternoon. Today we will sew top based on your pattern. – and I tried to “invent” just such a way to create a pattern that is understandable even to a “complete dummie” and a hopeless lazy person (like me) – you should like this fun and absolutely unboring way of creating your basic pattern.

And since many of us already have the base pattern ready, let’s start using it for its intended purpose and start sewing tops. Answer to the question “Why not start with dresses?”– read in the previous article in the series “Sew tops - quickly and easily.”

So, our first top will be sewn in an absolutely classic style. That is, it will be a simple, straight-cut top without any bells and whistles.

Here are the tops with a straight silhouette:

But you won't get bored sewing such simple tops. Because…

This lesson has three IMPORTANT tasks:

Task one– remember that basic patterns come in several types, depending on what silhouette of the product we need (fitted, semi-fitted, straight)

Task two– CHECK IF OUR BASIC PATTERN REALLY SUITS US. Well, we need to make sure that we drew everything correctly and didn’t make a mistake anywhere, and that the thing made according to the pattern fits us well and doesn’t sag or pull anywhere.

Task three– sew a top with a straight silhouette. And using his example, practice transferring darts from the shoulder (from where it is drawn on the pattern) to the side seam area (to where it is always located on the clothing, i.e. just below the armpit.

Let's start work

The first thing we need is your basic pattern. You have it. But WHICH she?

Now I will remind you of one thing. Remember that at the very beginning, when we first started drawing our base pattern, we needed to decide WHAT DEGREE OF FITTING WE WANT TO MAKE THIS BASE - and depending on this, we drew one or another width of the base pattern. This is what it looked like.

And if we needed an adjacent silhouette, we added 0 cm, if it was semi-adjacent, 2-3 cm, if it was straight, 4-5 cm, and if it was a very spacious dress, 6-7 cm.

What to do,

if your BASIC PATTERN is drawn with an ADJACENT silhouette in mind.

And you want to sew a top with a STRAIGHT silhouette.

Let's say that when you were drawing your pattern, you decided at the very beginning that it would be a pattern for an adjacent silhouette (for sewing dresses that fit the figure). And now you need to sew a straight, non-fitting top over it. What should I do?

Answer 1– Spend 20 minutes and re-draw the same basic pattern, but with an allowance for a straight or semi-fitted silhouette.

Answer 2– Or work with this pattern, but use knitted or stretch fabric for sewing (so that it stretches). And then it will be possible to cheat and turn the adjacent base pattern into a more spacious and wider one in a simple “clumsy” way - like in the picture below.

WE MODEL FROM THE BASIC PATTERN - THE PATTERN OF OUR TOP

What we do is we take our pattern, and in order not to spoil the basic pattern itself, we will perform all manipulations with its twin copy. To do this, trace the pattern on a sheet of paper - and here on this copy We will carry out all the manipulations - we will turn the base pattern into a pattern for a top with a straight silhouette. Namely:

• move the dart from the shoulder to the side seam (dart in classic version always hiding under his armpit.
• Let's draw the silhouettes of the neckline (that is, we will indicate the desired depth of the neckline) and the silhouettes of the armholes we need.
• Let's give the drawing a straight (non-fitted) silhouette - we'll cut the top with a straight silhouette.

TRANSFER OF DOTTER.

Who has forgotten what a dart is and why it needs to be moved. Let me remind you that we need a dart so that when sewing a product, it will have a natural bulge-container that matches the size of our chest. Remember when I told and showed how a flat figure becomes convex thanks to an undercut? Here are these photos illustrating this process of creating a bulge in the chest thanks to the shoulder dart.

But since the dart on the shoulder is striking, all the fashion designers came to a unanimous decision: after constructing the pattern, transfer this dart to the side seam (under the armpit), where the dart will not be covered by the hand and therefore will not be noticeable as if it were remained on the shoulder.

And here are photos explaining how to transfer a dart from the shoulder to the side seam line

So we took a copy of our pattern and made the necessary manipulations on it (as in the photo above), that is, we moved the dart to the side seam. That old closed dart can be secured with tape so that it does not open.

WHAT CHANGED ON THE PATTERN AFTER THE DART MOVED.

Look at the picture below - there I depicted a pattern with the old dart and a pattern after transferring the dart - they are side by side, and they can be compared.

As you can see, our shoulder line is no longer broken, but straight, and its length coincides with the measurement of our shoulder (you can compare). The armhole line also changed in better side, it is now not so much curved, not so rounded - it has become straighter, more similar to what we see on our clothes. That is, the pattern after transferring the dart became more convenient for modeling - and this is very good. Because it is the modeling of simple tops with a semi-fitting silhouette that we will now deal with. Right in this same article.

DRAW THE CONTOURS OF THE NECK, ARMORY AND SIDE LINES OF THE TOPIC

And now on this pattern we must outline the contours of our topic. That is, we must decide what kind of neckline we want, how wide we want the straps on the shoulders, and how deep the armholes are.

YOU can draw anything you want within this pattern. The main thing is that our neckline covers our chest, that is, it is a couple of cm higher than the chest line. There are no restrictions on the width of the straps, nor on the size of the armhole; it can be as deep as you like (the main thing is that you like it yourself).

Now we just have to give our top pattern a straight silhouette on the sides - that is, we make sure that it is not fitted.

It’s very simple - where we have a side bend at the waist on the pattern - you need to even it out (so that it doesn’t exist) just draw a straight (or very slightly curved) line from the armpit to the hip. And that’s it – here’s a straight silhouette.

What you draw is what you get out of it. For example, I’ll draw this shape for the neckline and armhole and I’ll get a top like this.

Now the pattern is ready. Don't forget that there are no seam allowances on this pattern. We will draw them directly on the fabric when we trace the pattern with chalk or pencil (or if you want, you can immediately draw them on the pattern).

SEW TOP

Now you can sew the top itself:

1.) First, trace the pattern onto the fabric. Place the pattern on the fabric, trace it with a pencil or chalk. On the front part on both sides transferring the pattern of the lateral underarm dart(we trace right along the edge of the darts, naturally without seam allowances - it will simply be covered with machine stitching).

2.) Cut out these drawn parts from the fabric.

3.) On the front part, immediately sew up the dart on both sides. I hope this is clear how - we put the drawn edges of the dart next to each other, baste it with threads and then put it under the machine and sew it with a seam. For those who don’t understand, let them take any of their dresses or blouses out of the closet and iron how the dart is closed. So, we closed the dart with a machine stitch - we take the product out from under the machine - and the threads hanging from the edges of the seam can simply be tied with a knot (or if the fabric is transparent, it is better to thread them into a hand needle and disguise them with stitches in the seam and make a knot in the middle of the seam itself).

4.) Now we connect the back part with the front part - side and shoulder seams.

5.) We process the neckline, armhole cutouts and the bottom of the product.

I described in detail how to process it in, or on. Everything is explained there: what lines to sew, and how to overcast, and how to work with knitwear without an overlocker.

That's all for today. In the next article we will sew

Olga Klishevskaya, especially for the site.

Tip: if the fabric does not stretch enough in width, make the pattern one size larger.

You will need

• Graph paper ()
• Pencil
• Ruler ()
• Copy wheel
• Measuring tape ()
• Stretchable fabric at least 50 cm long, 120 cm wide
• Double needle for jersey
• Sewing threads
• Scissors ()
• Pins()

Description of work

Step 1: Draw a pattern

Copy the pattern of your size onto a piece of graph paper:

• black line - size S
• green - size M
• blue - size L
• The gray line indicates the line of the upper edge of the back
• 1 cell = 2 cm.

Transfer the stitching marks for the straps on the back (for your size), as well as the mark for the depth of the front neckline and the depth of the back neckline. These marks also indicate the beginning of the center line of the parts. Copy the pattern for the front and back at once. Using the copy wheel, copy the back pattern onto a separate sheet of paper. Cut out the front piece and the back piece.

Step 2: cut out the details

Now you need to fold the fabric along a straight thread, pin the paper patterns of the front and back with a lower straight line (= middle line, fold line) on the fold of the fabric, add 1 cm allowance on all cuts (side seam, top edge), 2.5 cm allowance on hem the bottom and cut out 1 piece of front and back with a fold. Transfer all the marks from the paper pattern to the parts.

Then cut out the strips along the bias (at an angle of 45° to the straight thread of the fabric):

• 1 bias tape 60 cm long and 10 cm wide for piping the front neckline and
• 1 bias tape 140 cm long and 4 cm wide for edging the front and back necklines and straps.

A long bias tape can be sewn from shorter strips, the seam allowances can be ironed and the protruding ends can be cut off evenly.

Attention: make all seams with a double needle so that they remain stretchable. In the pictures, the seams are indicated by a red line, more light color- the wrong side, darker - the front side.

Step 3: Stitch the facing of the front neckline

Fold the bias tape for facing the front neckline in the middle lengthwise in half with the wrong side inward and iron it. Pin the piping right side onto the front side of the front so that the middle of the piping is aligned with the mark for the depth of the front cutout, and the pressed fold lies below, stitch to the top edge of the top. Sew seam allowances together. Iron the facing upwards and place the seam allowances on the front. Cut off the protruding short ends of the facing so that they align exactly with the side cuts of the front.

Step 4: Sew front and back and hem

Before laying it on the back, right side to right side, pin along the side edges. Execute side seams. Sew seam allowances together and press to back. Overcast the bottom edge, then iron it to the wrong side to a width of 2.5 cm. Sew the hem with a double needle from the front side.

Step 5: Finish the back and armhole with bias tape

On a long bias tape, iron two long edges onto the wrong side to a width of 1 cm - these will be hem allowances (see picture on the left), then fold the tape in half lengthwise and iron the fold. Unfold one half of the binding into one layer. Place this cut on the wrong side of the back neckline and pin it so that the straps on each side between the front and back from the sharp ends of the front protrude upward to the same length (see picture on the right). Sew the bias tape, the stitch runs exactly along the fold of the ironed seam allowances, seam width is 1 cm. Iron the seam allowances together onto the bias tape.


Wrap the bias tape on the wrong side around the seam allowances and pin or baste. The folds on the front and back sides should match. Topstitch the binding and straps to the edge using a double jersey needle.

Step 6: Sew the Straps

Pin the protruding open ends of the straps onto the back from the wrong side along the alignment marks. Try on the top and check the length of the straps. Sew the straps by hand to the seam allowances or stitch them into the seam of the facing of the back neckline. Cut off the protruding strap allowances close to the stitches. Your top is ready.


Photo: BurdaStyle
Material prepared by Elena Karpova

Top - a miniature sleeveless T-shirt, often with thin straps. This season, these products have become a real trend. Thanks to the laconic appearance, such a T-shirt looks good not only in casual look, but also with a business suit. An item made with your own hands will fit perfectly on the owner’s figure and complement her image favorably. Before you sew a top yourself, you need to choose the right pattern. A pre-studied algorithm of actions will help you avoid mistakes during the work process.

Miniature sleeveless T-shirts are often worn in the warm season, so the material for sewing should be light. A summer jersey top will allow the skin to breathe and absorb moisture well. Models and patterns of such products are distinguished by their simplicity and conciseness. The top for evening outings can be made of silk or viscose. The beach version is made from cotton and linen.

Almost any fabric requires decating - steam or water treatment - before cutting. This is necessary in order to prevent shrinkage of the finished product after the first wash. The technique for performing decating depends on the density of the material. As a rule, the fabric must be wetted with warm water and left for several hours, after drying, ironed. Exceptions include linen, silk and cotton fabrics - they only need to be ironed, without soaking.

Accessories

To sew a top with your own hands, you will need basic tools that are used in sewing. To work you should prepare:

• sewing machine;
• iron;
• scissors (separately for fabric and paper);
• measuring tape;
• pins;
• tailor's chalk;
• accessories for decoration (optional);
• threads of two colors.

Beginners should know that any product is sewn with several threads. At the cutting and basting stage, contrasting ones are taken (for example, black stitches are applied to white fabric). Machine stitching is done with threads matching the color of the material. This is necessary in order to simplify the process of removing running stitches.

The top pattern for beginners contains three parts: the front (1 piece with a fold) and the back (2 pieces). For the edging of the collar, a figure 3-4 cm wide is drawn (rhombus, rectangle or oval) depending on the chosen type of neckline. The length of the element must correspond to the size of the head opening.

The allowance is 1 cm along all seams in the product, except for the bottom, where you need to leave 3-4 cm.

Required measurements

The key to sewing a quality product is correct taken measurements, no matter, simple patterns or complex ones involved in the work. Basic Rules:

• measurements are taken based on underwear;
• for a right-handed person it is measured Right side, and for a left-handed person - the left, since these parts of the body are more developed;
• a pattern is always half of the product, so we must not forget that some measurements must be divided in half (hip, neck, chest, waist, back).

List of required measurements:

1. Neck circumference. It is measured in its lower part, the measuring tape is laid from the side of the face.
2. Chest circumference. The tape is laid along the line of the shoulder blades and along the most protruding parts of the chest. The model must stand without holding her breath. The tape adheres to the body, but does not press.
3. Front length. Measured from the shoulder to the waist along the protruding parts.
4. Chest height. Length from shoulder to the most protruding part of the chest.
5. Back length. Measured from the bone at the base of the neck to the waist.
6. Length of the product. Measured from the bone at the base of the neck to the end of the desired length of the product.
7. Shoulder length. Measured when desired result– top with wide straps.

You cannot take measurements yourself, because the results may be inaccurate. And in the art of sewing, any inaccuracy threatens that the product simply will not fit on the model, so it is better to ask someone to help.

You can refer to the size correspondence table.

Dimensional sign	42	44	46	48	50	52
Neck circumference, cm	34	34,8	35,6	36,4	37,2	37,8
Chest width, cm	32,2	33	33,8	34,8	35,4	36,2
Shoulder circumference, cm	26	27,4	29,2	31	32,4	40,6
Chest circumference, cm	84	88	92	96	100	104
Back width, cm	33,6	34,6	35,6	36,6	37,6	38,6
Waist circumference, cm	66	70	74	78	82	86
Back length to waist, cm (including protruding shoulder blades)	41,3	41,4	41,5	41,6	41,7	41,8

Sewing stages taking into account the model

Each sleeveless T-shirt model is individual and requires a special approach to work. Before sewing a summer top, you should study the algorithm of actions in detail. In addition, you need to prepare everything in advance necessary materials and tools.

In lingerie style with lace

For sewing a linen top, you can choose silk, chiffon, satin, light cotton. The basic rule: the fabric should flow, be light and delicate.

The lingerie-style top has thin straps.

We sew according to the following algorithm:

1. Cut out a pattern from paper. Under the darts, you must sign the names of the parts, as well as mark the front and back sides.
2. Fold the fabric in half. Place the pattern on the fold and secure the paper with needles.
3. Cut out the elements from the material according to the pattern, leaving a 1 cm seam allowance on each side. You should end up with two front and two back pieces.
4. These parts must be folded with the wrong sides facing each other. Sew, connecting them on the sides.
5. The straps can be made from ropes in the color of the fabric.
6. Turn one part of the product inside out and sew on the straps.
7. Take the second part of the top, turn it inside out, thread the other part into it, and pin it on top along the perimeter of the product.
8. Sew the top using a sewing machine.
9. Turn the top inside out, pin a lace ribbon to the bottom of the product, and stitch again.

Iron the resulting lace top. You can wash it right away, but it’s better to do it before sewing. Some fabrics may shrink after washing.

Using a French seam, the front and back pieces are connected
The facing details are duplicated with thin dublerin
The facings are sewn together Straps
Using a needle, the straps are turned out and ironed
The facing and the main part of the top are folded face to face, with straps placed between them. The entire circumference of the top is stitched

Summer with straps

As a rule, patterns for summer tops are practically no different from patterns for lingerie-style products. The only difference is the material. The summer top is sewn like this:

1. Trace on paper any T-shirt that fits your figure well and cut it out. In this case, you need to select a material similar to the sample in terms of elasticity.
2. Fold the fabric in half and attach the pattern to the fold. Secure with pins, cut out, not forgetting to leave a seam allowance around the perimeter of the entire product (1 cm) and at the bottom (3-4 cm). You should end up with 4 parts: 2 front and 2 rear.
3. Sew the front and back pieces on the sides, placing them wrong sides together. Next, insert one piece into the other, sew around the perimeter from the wrong side.
4. Process the bottom of the top: fold it twice at the same distance, sew on a machine.

To create a women's top summer season Elastic cotton fabric is suitable. It should be light but durable. It is important that the jersey top does not interfere with air exchange.

The pattern is created directly on the fabric
When cutting parts, allowances must be taken into account
From the chiffon folded 4 times you need to cut two parts
The bottom of chiffon parts should be longer
There are 4 parts in total
The straps are pinned to the front side of the shelf
It is necessary to retreat from the edge by the amount of allowance
A chiffon shelf is placed on top
There is machine stitching along the top
A corner is cut out. Cuts are made at the armhole allowances
Stitching. The chiffon allowances are turned over, turned over to the front side and a stitch is made along the inner chiffon side at a distance of 1 mm
The upper part is ironed
The back of the top is folded and connected. The places under the straps remain unstitched
The side seams are joined with a French seam
The slices are cut with the right sides facing out
Allowances are trimmed
The bottom is folded twice and hemmed
Finished bottom
The straps are inserted into the places intended for them
After adjusting the length, the straps are pinned

From an old T-shirt

You can sew a short sports top yourself even from old t-shirt, which fits in size. You should follow this algorithm:

1. If the T-shirt long sleeves, then they need to be cut in a semicircle.
2. The bottom of the product must be cut with scissors (straight line or semicircle). For decoration with ties, you can leave two stripes at the bottom on the front of the T-shirt, and trim the rest short. The stripes should be placed like parts of an unbuttoned shirt. Next, you need to tie them into a careless knot. This option for processing the bottom of the product is now popular.

This top is suitable for walking or playing sports. Now the trend is slight negligence and maximum comfort, so the cuts do not need to be machined.

Simple without pattern

You can create anything from an ordinary piece of fabric. But not everyone wants to take measurements and create a pattern. There is a method for sewing an interesting miniature T-shirt without preliminary markings on the fabric.

Sewing algorithm:

1. Take a rectangular piece of fabric. It should be wider than the model’s shoulders, and the length should be just below the waist. It is better to take silk or satin material.
2. Lay the fabric out on the table. Bend the upper corners to the middle, leaving a distance of 3-4 cm between them.
3. Secure the fold line on both sides with pins. Trim the folded corners, leaving 1 cm from the location of the fasteners. The top of the product is the neck, it will be located under the neck.
4. Sew the cut folds.
5. Attach a thin elastic band to the inside of the neckline and stitch.
6. Next, fold the fabric remaining on top of the elastic onto the wrong side (hide the elastic) and stitch it.
7. Trim the bottom of the product to the desired length of the top.
8. Attach a wide elastic band to the bottom of the T-shirt on the front side and sew it from the back.
9. Attach fasteners to the sides of the elastic elements.
10. Thread a cord into the pocket where the elastic is located. Adjust the length to the size of the girl’s neck.

How to decorate

To make the top unique and interesting, girls strive to decorate it with their own hands. However, it is worth remembering that the decorative elements must be in harmony with the style and color scheme products.

Decoration methods:

1. Sew beads of various sizes on the neck of the product, the closer to the neck, the more beads.
2. A top with straps can be decorated with fringe, placing it near the neckline.
3. Sew lace ribbons to the straps and bottom of the top.
4. Make embroidery on the chest or along the bottom of the product.

You can easily sew a top with thin straps yourself. By following the instructions, even a novice craftswoman can handle the job. Fashionable and stylish sleeveless T-shirts will remain at the peak of popularity for a long time. A linen top worn under a formal jacket will add charm to the look, and in combination with a pencil skirt it will look elegant and fashionable.

Video

Hello, my dear readers! With the arrival of summer, I really want to sew a perfectly light knitted top . It can be with or without straps.

For this I needed 0.5 meters of knitwear. We won’t even make a pattern: we just take a piece of fabric, wrap ourselves so that the knitwear fits snugly to the body, and cut out a rectangle. The height of my rectangle is 40 cm. The remaining 10 cm is for the straps.

Our top will have only one seam - on the side. Be sure to put a knitting needle in the machine, otherwise there will be gaps in the stitches in the seam, and these gaps personally frustrate me very much..

We stitch it on a typewriter: (in the photo the seam is laid out in the center so that it is clearly visible)

You can sew directly on an overlocker or zig-zag, in which case the allowances will be processed immediately.

Now you need to process the top and bottom cuts on the top. Due to the fact that we are sewing from knitwear, simply fold the allowances for good looking in the end it won't be enough.

Therefore, we glue the allowances of the lower and upper cuts with paper tape. I wrote about this in detail.

The result is such a beautiful bottom:

Now we sew it with a straight stitch double needle for knitwear .

After we sew the line, the bottom may become “humpy”, because working with knitwear cannot be called easy, you need to adapt to it.

Be sure to iron the seam along the bottom of the top, it should become perfectly smooth and flat:

We process the top cut of the top in the same way.

Now we measure the elastic so that it doesn’t put pressure on finished product. To do this, we measure the volume of the body above the chest - where we are going to wear the top. We measure not with a centimeter tape, but with an elastic band.

We make a drawstring at the top of the top into which we will insert an elastic band.

We make straps of the desired width from the remaining fabric and sew them to the front and back of the top.

This is how the knitted top turned out:

You can decorate the top part of the top with sequins and make it long - you get a knitted tunic.

Top- this is the upper part of the female summer clothes, is an open T-shirt without sleeves.
Mike- a type of sleeveless outerwear. Can be used as part of a sports uniform.

If you combine these two types of clothing (T-shirt + top), we get a T-shirt top - a comfortable type of outerwear women's clothing, which is simply irreplaceable in summer period, and also as an office version of a blouse “under a jacket”. A jersey T-shirt should fit your body well, and based on its pattern, you can build patterns for all other products. It is on a T-shirt that you can without fear try processing the armholes and neckline, and since a T-shirt-top is sewn very quickly, the result will be ready on the same day.

How to create a pattern and sew a T-shirt top

Even to sew a T-shirt you need a pattern, and for each type of figure you need to modify it a little. To create a pattern, measurements are taken of the circumference of the neck, chest, armhole height and length of the product. The neck depth and shoulder width on each product are determined separately. On paper around the main pattern (which can be an old knitted T-shirt, whose sleeves are cut off), the contours of the T-shirt are outlined, where Special attention You need to pay attention to the neckline and the width of the shoulder straps, as well as the depth of the armholes. The T-shirt usually comes in a straight silhouette, which means it does not require any darts. If there are side bends in the waistline of the pattern, they need to be aligned.

A pattern cut from paper is traced onto the fabric, taking into account seam allowances, using a pencil or chalk. The parts are cut out of fabric. If the T-shirt top is not made from knitwear, you will need darts on the front parts, which are swept away with thread during fitting. The first thing to sew on any product is the darts, if there are any. A T-shirt made of non-stretch fabric can be made without darts, providing its top and bottom with elastic bands of the required width for convenience. Then the front piece is connected to the back piece using side and shoulder seams. The neckline and armhole cutouts are processed with piping (see) or with a hem seam, and the bottom of the product is hemmed. The T-shirt can be decorated with embroidery or worn as is.

If you don't want to bother with patterns, you can sew a top without a pattern. See details.

We sew a children's T-shirt-top

There is never too much for a child in hot weather light clothing, so you can sew a T-shirt for the summer from light chintz or cotton in a pleasant color. The pattern is constructed so that the child can freely put on and take off the T-shirt, since it is best to make a summer top from cotton.

The details of the front and back are first cut out of paper, then placed on fabric folded right sides together. Before cutting, pin them to make even parts. Cut out the front and back pieces of the T-shirt, leaving a seam allowance of 1.5–2 cm.

The sections are processed to prevent further shedding of the fabric using an overlocker or by hand using an overlock stitch. Sew the side seams, then the shoulder seams, and fold the bottom. The sections are treated with bias tape. You can sew appliqués or sew beautiful buttons on the front of the T-shirt.

DIY T-shirt top made from an old T-shirt

It’s very easy to make a T-shirt from an old T-shirt, the sleeves of which can be used to decorate the neck and front. You can cut off the sleeves at the seam and process the cuts, or you can deepen the armhole line.

The neck is either left as is, or deepened, changing its shape if desired. The bottom of the item can be left the same, but if the item seems long, it can be easily shortened and at the same time decorated to your taste.

If the T-shirt is long enough and wide enough, it can be cut into long strips, which are then braided and secured with a few stitches along the hem line so that the weave does not unravel. A short and small T-shirt can be made larger by using symmetrical cuts. Usually T-shirts with big amount cutouts are worn as a second layer over a tight-fitting T-shirt in a contrasting color.