Primitive man's clothing

From the beginning of the Mesolithic era (tenth to eighth millennium BC), climatic conditions began to change on Earth, and primitive communities discovered new sources of food and adapted to new conditions. During this era, man transitioned from gathering and hunting to a productive economy - agriculture and cattle breeding - the “Neolithic revolution”, which became the beginning of the history of civilization of the ancient world. At this time, the first clothes are born.

Clothing appeared in ancient times as a means of protection against unfavorable climate, from insect bites, wild animals on the hunt, from blows from enemies in battle and, no less important, as a means of protection from evil forces. We can get some idea of what clothing was like in the primitive era not only from archaeological data, but also from information about the clothing and lifestyle of primitive tribes who still live on Earth in some inaccessible and remote places. modern civilization areas: Africa, Central and South America, Polynesia.

Even before clothes

A person’s appearance has always been one of the ways of self-expression and self-awareness, determining the individual’s place in the world around him, an object of creativity, a form of expression of ideas about beauty. The most ancient types of “clothing” are painting and tattooing, which performed the same protective functions as clothing covering the body. This is evidenced by the fact that coloring and tattooing are common among those tribes that even in our time do without any other types of clothing.

Body painting also protected against the influence of evil spirits and insect bites and was supposed to terrify the enemy in battle. Make-up (a mixture of fat and paint) was known already in the Stone Age: in the Paleolithic people knew about 17 paints. The most basic: white (chalk, lime), black (charcoal, manganese ore), ocher, which made it possible to obtain shades from light yellow to orange and red. Body and face painting was a magical rite, often a sign of an adult male warrior and was first applied during the initiation rite (initiation into adult full members of the tribe).

The coloring also had an informational function - it reported on belonging to a certain clan and tribe, social status, personal qualities and merits of its owner. A tattoo (a pattern pricked or carved into the skin), unlike coloring, was a permanent decoration and also denoted a person’s tribal affiliation and social status, and could also be a kind of chronicle of individual achievements throughout life.

The hairstyle and headdress were of particular importance, since it was believed that hair has magical power, mainly long hair women (therefore, many nations had a ban on women appearing in public with their heads uncovered). All manipulations with hair had a magical meaning, since it was believed that life force was concentrated in the hair. A change in hairstyle has always meant a change in social status, age and social and gender role. The headdress may have appeared as part of the ceremonial costume during rituals of rulers and priests. For all peoples, the headdress was a sign of sacred dignity and high position.

The same ancient type of clothing as makeup is jewelry, which originally performed a magical function in the form of amulets and amulets. At the same time, ancient jewelry served the function of indicating a person’s social status and an aesthetic function. Primitive jewelry was made from a wide variety of materials: animal and bird bones, human bones (among those tribes where cannibalism existed), animal fangs and tusks, bat teeth, bird beaks, shells, dried fruits and berries, feathers, corals, pearls, metals

Thus, most likely, the symbolic and aesthetic functions of clothing preceded its practical purpose - protecting the body from environmental influences. Jewelry could also serve an informational function, being a kind of writing among some peoples (for example, among the South African Zulu tribe, “talking” necklaces were common in the absence of writing).

The emergence of clothing and fashion

Clothing is one of the oldest inventions of man. Already in the monuments of the late Paleolithic, stone scrapers and bone needles were discovered, which were used for processing and stitching skins. The material for clothing, in addition to skins, was leaves, grass, tree bark (for example, tapa - material made from processed bast among the inhabitants of Oceania). Hunters and fishermen used fish skins, sea lion intestines and other sea animals, and bird skins.

With the colder weather in many regions, the need arose to protect the body from the cold, which led to the appearance of clothing made from skins - the oldest material for making clothing among hunting tribes. Before the invention of weaving, clothing made from skins was the main clothing of primitive peoples.

Hunters of the last Ice Age were probably the first people to wear clothing. Clothes were made from animal skins sewn together with strips of leather. Animal skins were first pinned and scraped, then washed and pulled tightly onto a wooden frame to prevent them from shrinking as they dried. The tough, dry skin was then softened and cut to make clothing.

The clothes were cut out, and holes were made along the edges with a pointed stone awl. The holes made it much easier to pierce the skins with a bone needle. Prehistoric people made pins and needles from shards of bone and deer antler, which they then polished by grinding them against stone. The scraped skins were also used to make tents, bags and bedding.

The first clothes consisted of simple pants, tunics and cloaks, decorated with beads made of painted stones, teeth, and shells. They also wore fur shoes tied with leather laces. Animals provided skins for fabrics, tendons for threads, and bones for needles. Clothing made from animal skins protected from cold and rain and allowed primitive people to live in the far north.

Some time after the beginning of agriculture in the Middle East, wool began to be made into cloth. In other parts of the world, plant fibers such as flax, cotton, bast and cactus were used for these purposes. The fabric was dyed and decorated with vegetable dyes.

Stone Age people used flowers, stems, bark and leaves of numerous plants to obtain dyes. The flowers of the gorse and the tinker's button produced a range of colors - from bright yellow to brownish-green.

Plants like indigowort and woad produced rich Blue colour, while the bark, leaves and shell walnut provided a reddish-brown color. Plants were also used for tanning hides: the skin was softened by soaking in water with oak bark.

Both men and women in the Stone Age wore jewelry. Necklaces and pendants were made from all kinds of natural materials- elephant or mammoth tusk. Wearing a leopard bone necklace was believed to provide magical powers. Brightly colored pebbles, snail shells, fish bones, animal teeth, seashells, eggshell, nuts and seeds, mammoth and walrus tusks, fish bones and bird feathers - everything was used. We know about the variety of materials for jewelry from rock paintings in caves and ornaments discovered in burials.

Later they also began to make beads - from semi-precious amber and jadeite, jet and clay. The beads were strung on thin strips of leather or twine made from plant fibers. Women braided their hair and pinned it with combs and pins; strings of shells and teeth were turned into beautiful jewelry for the head. People probably painted their bodies and lined their eyes with dyes like red ocher, and gave themselves tattoos and piercings.

Skins removed from killed animals were processed, as a rule, by women using special scrapers made of stone, bones, and shells. When processing the skin, they first scraped off the remaining meat and tendons from the inner surface of the skin, then removed the hair as much as possible. different ways, depending on the region. For example, the primitive peoples of Africa buried skins in the ground along with ash and leaves, in the Arctic they soaked them in urine (skins were treated in the same way in Ancient Greece and Ancient Rome), then the skin was tanned to give it strength, and also rolled, squeezed, and pounded. using special leather grinders to add elasticity.

In general, many methods of tanning leather are known: with the help of decoctions of oak and willow bark, in Russia, for example, they fermented it - soaked it in sour bread solutions; in Siberia and the Far East, they rubbed fish bile, urine, liver and brains of animals into the skin. Nomadic pastoral peoples used fermented milk products, boiled animal liver, salt, and tea for this purpose. If the top grain layer was removed from fat-tanned leather, suede was obtained.

Animal skins are still the most important material for making clothing, but, nevertheless, the use of sheared (plucked, selected) animal hair was a great invention. Both nomadic pastoral and sedentary agricultural peoples used wool. It is likely that the oldest method of processing wool was felting: the ancient Sumerians in the third millennium BC. wore felt clothes.

Many items made of felt (headdresses, clothing, blankets, carpets, shoes, cart decorations) were found in Scythian burials in the Pazyryk mounds of the Altai Mountains (VI-V centuries BC). Felt was obtained from sheep, goat, camel wool, yak wool, horse hair, etc. Felting felt was especially widespread among the nomadic peoples of Eurasia, for whom it also served as a material for making dwellings (for example, yurts among the Kazakhs).

Among those peoples who were engaged in gathering and then became farmers, clothing was known from specially processed bark of bread, mulberry or fig trees. Among some peoples of Africa, Indonesia and Polynesia, such bark fabric is called “tapa” and is decorated with multi-colored patterns using paint applied with special stamps.

The emergence of weaving

The separation of agriculture and cattle breeding into separate types of labor was accompanied by the separation of crafts. Agricultural and pastoral tribes invented a spindle, a loom, and tools for processing leather and sewing clothes from fabrics and leather (in particular, needles from fish and animal bones or metal).

Having learned the art of spinning and weaving in the Neolithic era, man initially used the fibers of wild plants, but the transition to cattle breeding and agriculture made it possible to use the wool of domestic animals and fibers of cultivated plants (flax, hemp, cotton) to make fabrics. They were first used to weave baskets, canopies, nets, snares, ropes, and then a simple weaving of stems, bast fibers or fur strips turned into weaving. Weaving required a long, thin and uniform thread, twisted from various fibers.

During the Neolithic era, a great invention appeared - the spindle (the principle of its operation - twisting fibers - is preserved in modern spinning machines). Spinning was the occupation of women who also made clothes, so for many peoples the spindle was a symbol of a woman and her role as the mistress of the house.

Weaving was also the work of women, and only with the development of commodity production did it become the lot of male artisans. Loom formed on the basis of a weaving frame on which the warp threads were pulled, through which the weft threads were then passed using a shuttle. In ancient times, three types of primitive looms were known:

1. A vertical loom with one wooden beam (beam) hanging between two racks, in which the thread tension was ensured using clay weights suspended from the warp threads (the ancient Greeks had similar looms).

2. A horizontal machine with two fixed bars, between which the base was tensioned. It was used to weave fabric of a strictly defined size (the ancient Egyptians had such looms).

3. Machine with rotating beam shafts.

Fabrics were made from banana bast, hemp and nettle fibers, flax, wool, silk - depending on the region, climate and traditions.

In primitive communities and societies of the Ancient East, there was a strict and rational distribution of labor between men and women. Women, as a rule, were engaged in making clothes: they spun threads, wove fabrics, sewed leather and skins, decorated clothes with embroidery, appliqué, drawings made using stamps, etc.

Types of clothing of primitive man

Sewn clothes preceded by its prototypes: a primitive cloak (skin) and a loin cover. Various types of shoulder clothing originate from the cloak; subsequently, a toga, tunic, poncho, burka, shirt, etc. arose from it. Belt clothing (apron, skirt, trousers) evolved from the hip cover.

The simplest ancient footwear was a sandal, or a piece of animal skin wrapped around the foot. The latter is considered the prototype of the leather morshni (pistons) of the Slavs, the chuvyak of the Caucasian peoples, and the moccasins of the American Indians. Tree bark (in Eastern Europe) and wood (shoes among some peoples of Western Europe) were also used for shoes.

Headdresses, protecting the head, already in ancient times played the role of a sign indicating social status (headdresses of a leader, priest, etc.), and were associated with religious and magical ideas (for example, they depicted the head of an animal).

Clothing was usually adapted to the conditions of the geographical environment and in different climatic zones it differs in shape and material. The oldest clothing of the peoples of the tropical forest zone (in Africa, South America, etc.) is a loincloth, an apron, and a blanket over the shoulders. In moderately cold and arctic regions, clothing covers the entire body. Northern type clothing is divided into moderate northern and clothing Far North(the last one is entirely fur).

The peoples of Siberia are characterized by two types of fur clothing: in the subpolar zone - blind, that is, without a slit, worn over the head (among the Eskimos, Chukchi, Nenets, etc.), in the taiga zone - swinging, with a slit in the front (among the Evenks, Yakuts, etc.). A unique set of clothing made from suede or tanned leather developed among the Indians of the forest belt of North America: women had a long shirt, men had a shirt and high leggings.

Forms of clothing are closely related to human economic activities. Thus, in ancient times, peoples engaged in nomadic cattle breeding developed a special type of clothing convenient for riding - wide pants and a robe for men and women.

As society developed, differences in social and family status increased their influence on clothing. The clothes of men and women, girls and married women; everyday, festive, wedding, funeral and other clothes arose. As labor was divided, various types of professional clothing appeared; already in the early stages of history, clothing reflected ethnic characteristics (clan, tribal), and later - national ones.

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The shape of the human body and lifestyle determined the first primitive types of clothing. Animal skins or plant materials were woven into rectangular pieces and draped over the shoulders or hips, tied, or wrapped around the body horizontally, diagonally, or in a spiral. This is how two main types of clothing appeared based on the attachment point: shoulder and waist. Their most ancient form is draped clothing. It enveloped the body and was held in place with ties, belts, and fasteners. Over time, a more complex form of clothing arose - an invoice, which could be closed and swinging. They began to bend panels of fabric along the warp or weft and sew them on the sides, leaving slits for the arms in the upper part of the fold and cutting out a hole for the head in the center of the fold. Clothing that was closed was worn over the head; the swinging one had a slit in the front from top to bottom.

THE ORIGIN OF CLOTHING AND ITS FUNCTION

Archaeological excavations show that clothing appeared in the earliest stages of human development. Already in the Paleolithic era, man was able, using bone needles, to sew, weave and bind various natural materials - leaves, straw, reeds, animal skins - to give them the desired shape. Natural materials were also used as headdresses, for example, hollowed out pumpkins, shells coconut, ostrich egg or turtle shell.

Shoes arose much later and were less common than other elements of the costume.

Clothing, like any item of decorative and applied art, combines beauty and practicality, protecting the human body from cold and heat, precipitation and wind; it performs a practical function, and by decorating it, an aesthetic one. It is difficult to say exactly which of the functions of clothing is more ancient... Despite the cold, rain and snow, the aborigines of Tierra del Fuego walked naked, and East African tribes near the equator wore long fur coats made of goat skins during the holidays. Ancient frescoes from the 4th millennium BC. e. show that only people of noble classes wore clothes, while the rest went naked.

The direct predecessors of clothing are tattooing, body painting and the application of magical signs to it, with which people sought to protect themselves from evil spirits and strange forces of nature, to frighten enemies and win over friends. Subsequently, tattoo patterns began to be transferred to fabric. For example, the multi-colored checkered pattern of the ancient Celts remained the national pattern of Scottish fabric. The shape of the human body and lifestyle determined the first primitive forms of clothing. Animal skins or plant materials were woven into rectangular pieces and draped over the shoulders or hips, tied, or wrapped around the body horizontally, diagonally, or in a spiral. This is how one of the main types of human clothing appeared primitive society: drapey clothing. Over time, more complex clothing arose: an invoice, which could be closed and swinging. Panels of fabric began to be folded along the warp or weft and stitched on the sides, leaving slits for the arms in the upper part of the fold and a hole for the head in the center of the fold.

The overhead closed clothing was put on over the head, the swinging one had a front slit from top to bottom. Draped and overlaid clothing has survived to this day as the main forms of fastening it on the human figure. Shoulder, waist, hip clothing is represented today by a variety of assortment, designs, cuts... The historical development of the main forms of clothing took place in direct connection with the economic conditions of the era, aesthetic and moral requirements and the general artistic style in art. And changes in the style of an era are always associated with ideological shifts occurring in society. Within each style, there is a more mobile and short-term phenomenon - fashion, which affects all sectors of human activity.

When answering the question " when did clothes appear"The opinions of scientists differ. According to the most cautious hypothesis, clothing appeared about 40 thousand years ago, which is confirmed by archaeological data, since the oldest found sewing needles date back to this time. According to the most daring hypotheses, the appearance of clothing could coincide with the loss human ancestors of the main part of the hair, which happened about 1.2 million years ago. There is also a hypothesis that the time of the appearance of the first clothes can be determined based on when body lice appeared, which live only on clothes. Genetics say that body lice. separated from head lice at least 83 thousand years ago, and perhaps even earlier than 170 thousand years ago. There are more bold estimates of the time of appearance of body lice - from 220 thousand to 1 million years ago.

Most likely, clothing arose not so much as protection from the cold (tribes are known who went without clothing, even living in a harsh climate, for example, the Indians of Tierra del Fuego), but as magical protection from outside threats. Amulets, tattoos, and painting on the naked body initially played the same role as clothing later, protecting the owner with magical power. Subsequently, the tattoo patterns were transferred to the fabric. For example, the multi-colored checkered tattoo pattern of the ancient Celts remained the national pattern of Scottish fabric.

The first materials for clothing of primitive man were plant fibers and skins. The methods of wearing skins as clothing varied. This includes wrapping it around the torso and attaching it to the belt, which provides good cover for the pelvis and legs; putting it on the shoulders through the slot for the head (the future amice), throwing it on the back and tying the paws around the neck to create a warm cape in the form of a cloak. The more a person complicated his clothing, the more various fasteners and additions appeared on it. These are claws, bones, bird feathers, animal fangs.

Clothing of the ancient Germans of the Stone Age:

At the Paleolithic site of Sungir (territory of the Vladimir region), the estimated age of which is 25 thousand years, in 1955 the burials of teenagers were found: a boy 12-14 years old and a girl 9-10 years old. The teenagers' clothes were trimmed with mammoth bone beads (up to 10 thousand pieces), which made it possible to reconstruct their clothes (which turned out to be similar to the costume of modern northern peoples). A reconstruction of clothing from the Sungir site can be seen in the following figure:

In 1991, the ice mummy of the primitive man “Ötzi”, who lived 3300 BC, was found in the Alps. Ötzi's clothes were partially preserved and were reconstructed (see picture).

Ötzi's clothing was quite elaborate. He wore a woven straw cloak, as well as a leather vest, belt, leggings, loincloth and boots. In addition, a bearskin hat with a leather strap across the chin was discovered. The wide, waterproof boots appeared to have been designed for walking in the snow. They used bearskin for the soles, deerskin for the uppers, and bast for lacing. Soft grass was tied around the leg and used as warm socks. The vest, belt, windings and loincloth were made from strips of leather sewn together with sinew. Sewn to the belt was a pouch containing useful things: scraper, drill, flint, bone arrow and dry mushroom used as tinder.
In addition, about 57 tattoos of dots, lines and crosses were found on Ötzi's body.

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EE "Minsk State College of Arts"

on the topic: “Art and costume of primitive society”

performed by a student from group 1m/x

specialty: choreographic

art (folk dance)

Grakhovskaya N.

Introduction

1 From the history of primitive society

2 Costume of primitive society

3 Main types of clothing of primitive society

4 The emergence of clothing and its functions

5 Primitive costume, general information

6 The emergence of costume and weaving

Conclusion

Bibliography

INTRODUCTION

We stand on the foundation laid by previous generations, and from the heights we have reached we vaguely feel that its laying cost humanity long, painful efforts. And we feel a sense of gratitude towards the nameless, forgotten workers, whose patient search and vigorous activity made us what we are today.

The culture of primitive society too often suffers only contempt, ridicule and condemnation. Meanwhile, among the benefactors of humanity, whom we are obliged to honor with gratitude, many, if not most, were primitive people. In the final analysis, we are not so different from these people, and much of what is true and useful that we so carefully preserve is due to our rude ancestors, who accumulated and handed down to us fundamental ideas that we tend to consider as something original and intuitive given.

We are, as it were, the heirs of a fortune that has changed hands so many times that the memory of those who laid its foundation has faded, and therefore the present owners consider it their original and inalienable property. However, deeper reflection and research should convince us that we owe most of this heritage to our predecessors

1 FROM THE HISTORY OF PRIMITIVE SOCIETY

Primitive art is the art of the era of primitive society. Having emerged in the late Paleolithic around 33 thousand years BC. e., it reflected the views, conditions and lifestyle of primitive hunters (primitive dwellings, cave images of animals, female figurines). Experts believe that the genres of primitive art arose approximately in the following sequence: stone sculpture; rock art; clay dishes. Neolithic and Chalcolithic farmers and herders developed communal settlements, megaliths, and pile buildings; images began to convey abstract concepts, and the art of ornament developed.

Anthropologists associate the true emergence of art with the appearance of homo sapiens, who is otherwise called Cro-Magnon man. Cro-Magnons (these people were named after the place where their remains were first found - the Cro-Magnon grotto in the south of France), who appeared from 40 to 35 thousand years ago, were people tall(1.70-1.80 m), slender, strong build. They had an elongated, narrow skull and a distinct, slightly pointed chin, which gave the lower part of the face triangular shape. In almost every way they were similar modern man and became famous as excellent hunters. They had well-developed speech, so they could coordinate their actions. They skillfully made all kinds of tools for different occasions: sharp spear tips, stone knives, bone harpoons with teeth, excellent choppers, axes, etc.

The technique of making tools and some of its secrets were passed down from generation to generation (for example, the fact that stone heated over a fire is easier to process after cooling). Excavations at sites of Upper Paleolithic people indicate the development of primitive hunting beliefs and witchcraft among them. They made figurines of wild animals from clay and pierced them with darts, imagining that they were killing real predators. They also left hundreds of carved or painted images of animals on the walls and vaults of caves. Archaeologists have proven that monuments of art appeared immeasurably later than tools - almost a million years.

In ancient times, people used materials at hand for art - stone, wood, bone. Much later, namely in the era of agriculture, he discovered the first artificial material- fireproof clay - and began to actively use it for making dishes and sculptures. Wandering hunters and gatherers used wicker baskets because they were easier to carry. Pottery is a sign of permanent agricultural settlements.

The first works of primitive fine art belong to the Aurignac culture (Late Paleolithic), named after the Aurignac cave (France). Since that time, female figurines made of stone and bone have become widespread. If the heyday of cave painting came about 10-15 thousand years ago, then the art of miniature sculpture reached a high level much earlier - about 25 thousand years. The so-called “Venuses” belong to this era - figurines of women 10-15 cm high, usually with distinctly massive shapes. Similar “Venuses” have been found in France, Italy, Austria, the Czech Republic, Russia and many other areas of the world. Perhaps they symbolized fertility or were associated with the cult of the female mother: the Cro-Magnons lived according to the laws of matriarchy, and it was through the female line that membership in the clan that revered its ancestor was determined. Scientists consider female sculptures to be the first anthropomorphic, i.e., human-like images.

In both painting and sculpture, primitive man often depicted animals. The tendency of primitive man to depict animals is called the zoological or animal style in art, and for their diminutiveness, small figures and images of animals were called plastics of small forms. Animal style is the conventional name for stylized images of animals (or parts thereof) common in ancient art. The animal style arose in the Bronze Age, developed in the Iron Age and in the art of early classical states; its traditions were preserved in medieval art, in folk art. Initially associated with totemism, images of the sacred beast over time turned into a conventional motif of the ornament.

Primitive painting was a two-dimensional image of an object, and sculpture was a three-dimensional or three-dimensional image. Thus, primitive creators mastered all the dimensions that exist in modern art, but did not master its main achievement - the technique of transferring volume on a plane (by the way, the ancient Egyptians and Greeks, medieval Europeans, Chinese, Arabs and many other peoples did not master it, because the discovery of reverse perspective occurred only during the Renaissance).

In some caves, bas-reliefs carved into the rock, as well as free-standing sculptures of animals, were discovered. Small figurines are known that were carved from soft stone, bone, and mammoth tusks. The main character of Paleolithic art is the bison. In addition to them, many images of wild aurochs, mammoths and rhinoceroses were found.

Rock drawings and paintings are varied in the manner of execution. The relative proportions of the animals depicted (mountain goat, lion, mammoth and bison) were usually not observed - a huge aurochs could be depicted next to a tiny horse. Failure to comply with proportions did not allow the primitive artist to subordinate composition to the laws of perspective (the latter, by the way, was discovered very late - in the 16th century). Movement in cave painting is conveyed through the position of the legs (crossing legs, for example, depicted an animal on the run), tilting the body or turning the head. There are almost no motionless figures.

Archaeologists have never discovered landscape paintings in the Old Stone Age. Perhaps this once again proves the primacy of the religious and the secondary nature of the aesthetic function of culture. Animals were feared and worshiped, trees and plants were only admired.

2 COSTUME OF PRIMITIVE SOCIETY

Archaeological excavations show that clothing appeared at the earliest stages of the development of human society (40-25 thousand years ago). Clothing, like any item of decorative and applied art, combines beauty and practicality. By protecting the human body from cold and heat, precipitation and wind, clothing performs a practical function; decorating it is an aesthetic function.

For the practical purpose of protection from bad weather and insect bites, people in ancient times coated their bodies with clay, damp earth, and fat. Then these lubricants were added vegetable paints- ocher, soot, carmine, indigo, lime, and the body was already painted in various ways and colors for aesthetic purposes. Over time, the fragile surface coloring is replaced by a tattoo: a layer of paint is passed under the skin in the form various patterns. In the same way, feathers, bones, hair, teeth of killed animals were initially worn on the body as protective and symbolic elements of the costume. When the body is increasingly covered with the fibrous materials of the clothing itself, a person creates artificial attachment points for pendants-symbols, piercing holes in the ears, nose, lips, cheeks, and wears them as jewelry. Body painting and tattooing were the direct predecessors of clothing. However, even with the advent of clothing made from fibrous materials, they continue to remain in the costume, performing illusory and aesthetic functions. The tattoo designs were subsequently transferred to the fabric. Thus, the multi-colored checkered tattoo pattern of the ancient Celts remained the national pattern of Scottish fabric. The significance of decorations in historical costume increased and expanded: class, symbolic, aesthetic. Their forms became more complex and diversified: removable, attached to the body (bracelets, rings, hoops, earrings), fixed, attached to fabric (embroidery, printed designs, relief decor).

3 MAIN TYPES OF CLOTHING IN PRIMITIVE SOCIETY

4 THE ORIGIN OF CLOTHING AND ITS FUNCTIONS

Archaeological excavations show that clothing appeared in the earliest stages of human development. Already in the Paleolithic era, man was able, using bone needles, to sew, weave and bind various natural materials - leaves, straw, reeds, animal skins - to give them the desired shape. Natural materials were also used as headdresses, such as a hollowed out pumpkin, coconut shell, ostrich egg or tortoise shell.

Shoes arose much later and were less common than other elements of the costume.

The direct predecessors of clothing are tattooing, body painting and the application of magical signs to it, with which people sought to protect themselves from evil spirits and strange forces of nature, to frighten enemies and win over friends. Subsequently, tattoo patterns began to be transferred to fabric. For example, the multi-colored checkered pattern of the ancient Celts remained the national pattern of Scottish fabric. The shape of the human body and lifestyle determined the first primitive forms of clothing. Animal skins or plant materials were woven into rectangular pieces and draped over the shoulders or hips, tied, or wrapped around the body horizontally, diagonally, or in a spiral. This is how one of the main types of clothing of a person in a primitive society appeared: draped clothing. Over time, more complex clothing arose: an invoice, which could be closed and swinging. Panels of fabric began to be folded along the warp or weft and stitched on the sides, leaving slits for the arms in the upper part of the fold and a hole for the head in the center of the fold.

5 PRIMITIVE COSTUME, GENERAL INFORMATION

Along with housing, clothing arose as one of the main means of protection from various external influences. Some bourgeois scientists recognize this utilitarian reason for the origin of clothing, but many take idealistic positions and put forward as the main reasons a feeling of shame, aesthetic motivation (clothing supposedly arose from jewelry), religious and magic shows, etc.

Clothing is one of the oldest inventions of man. Already in the monuments of the late Paleolithic, stone scrapers and bone needles were discovered, which were used for processing and stitching skins. The materials for clothing, in addition to skins, were leaves, grass, and tree bark (for example, Tapa among the inhabitants of Oceania). Hunters and fishermen used fish skins, sea lion intestines and other sea animals, and bird skins.

Having learned the art of spinning and weaving in the Neolithic era, man initially used fibers from wild plants. The transition to cattle breeding and agriculture that occurred in the Neolithic made it possible to use the hair of domestic animals and fibers of cultivated plants (flax, hemp, cotton) for the manufacture of fabrics. Embroidered clothing was preceded by its prototypes: a primitive cloak (skin) and a loin cover. Various types of shoulder clothing originate from the cloak; subsequently, a toga, tunic, poncho, burka, shirt, etc. arose from it. Belt clothing (apron, skirt, trousers) evolved from the hip cover.

The simplest ancient footwear was a sandal or a piece of animal skin wrapped around the foot. The latter is considered the prototype of the leather morshni (pistons) of the Slavs, the chuvyak of the Caucasian peoples, and the moccasins of the American Indians. Tree bark (in Eastern Europe) and wood (shoes among some peoples of Western Europe) were also used for shoes.

Clothing is usually adapted to the conditions of the geographical environment. In different climatic zones it differs in shape and material. The oldest clothing of the peoples of the tropical forest zone (in Africa, South America, etc.) is a loincloth, an apron, and a blanket on the shoulders. In moderately cold and arctic regions, clothing covers the entire body. The northern type of clothing is divided into moderate northern and clothing of the Far North (the latter is entirely fur).

The peoples of Siberia are characterized by two types of fur clothing: in the subpolar zone - blind, that is, without a cut, worn over the head (among the Eskimos, Chukchi, Nenets, etc.), in the taiga zone - swinging, having a cut in the front (among the Evenks, Yakuts, etc.). A unique set of clothing made of suede or tanned leather developed among the Indians of the forest belt of North America: women had a long shirt, men had a shirt and high leggings.

As society developed, the influence of differences in social and marital status on clothing increased. The clothing of men and women, girls and married women was differentiated; everyday, festive, wedding, funeral and other clothes arose. With the division of labor, various types of professional clothing appeared. Already in the early stages of history, clothing reflected ethnic characteristics (clan, tribal), and later national ones (which did not exclude local variations).

6 THE EMERGENCE OF COSTUME AND WEAVING

From the beginning of the Mesolithic (tenth to eighth millennium BC), when climatic conditions, flora and fauna changed, a major environmental crisis broke out on Earth. Primitive communities were forced to look for new sources of food and adapt to new conditions. At this time, man transitioned from gathering and hunting to a productive economy - agriculture and cattle breeding, which gives scientists reason to talk about the “Neolithic revolution”, which became the beginning of the history of civilization of the ancient world.

With the cooling in many regions, the need arose to protect the body from the cold, which led to the appearance of clothing made from skins - the oldest material for making clothing among hunting tribes. Before the invention of weaving, clothing made from skins was the main clothing of primitive peoples.

Skins taken from animals killed by men while hunting were, as a rule, processed by women using special scrapers made of stone, bones, and shells. When processing the skin, they first scraped off the remaining meat and tendons from the inner surface of the skin, then removed the hair in a variety of ways, depending on the region. For example, the primitive peoples of Africa buried skins in the ground along with ash and leaves, in the Arctic - they soaked them in urine (skins were treated in the same way in Ancient Greece and Ancient Rome), then the skin was tanned to give it strength, and also rolled, squeezed, pounded using special leather grinders to add elasticity.

The skin was tanned using decoctions of oak and willow bark; in Russia it was fermented - soaked in sour bread solutions; in Siberia and the Far East, fish bile, urine, liver and animal brains were rubbed into the skin. Nomadic pastoral peoples used fermented milk products, boiled animal liver, salt, and tea for this purpose. If the top grain layer was removed from fat-tanned leather, suede was obtained.

Animal skins are still the most important material for making clothing, but a great invention was the use of sheared (plucked, selected) animal hair. Both nomadic pastoral and sedentary agricultural peoples used wool. It is likely that the oldest method of processing wool was felting. Ancient Sumerians in the third millennium BC. wore felt clothes.

Many felt items (headdresses, clothing, blankets, carpets, shoes, cart decorations) were found in Scythian burials in the Pazyryk mounds of the Altai Mountains (VI-V centuries BC). Felt was obtained from sheep, goat, camel wool, yak wool, horse hair, etc. Felting felt was especially widespread among the nomadic peoples of Eurasia, for whom it also served as a material for making dwellings (for example, yurts among the Kazakhs).

Various plant fibers were also used to make clothing. They were first used to weave baskets, canopies, nets, snares, ropes, and then a simple weaving of stems, bast fibers or fur strips turned into weaving. Weaving required a long, thin and uniform thread, twisted from various fibers.

During the Neolithic era, a great invention appeared - the spindle (the principle of its operation - twisting fibers - is preserved in modern spinning machines). Spinning was the occupation of women, who also made clothes. Therefore, among many peoples, the spindle was a symbol of a woman and her role as the mistress of the house.

Weaving was also the work of women, and only with the development of commodity production did it become the lot of male artisans. The loom was formed from a weaving frame on which warp threads were pulled, through which the weft threads were then passed using a shuttle. In ancient times, three types of primitive looms were known:

A vertical loom with one wooden beam (beam) hanging between two racks, in which the thread tension was ensured using clay weights suspended from the warp threads (the ancient Greeks had similar looms);

A horizontal machine with two fixed bars, between which the base was tensioned. It was used to weave fabric of a strictly defined size (the ancient Egyptians had such looms);

A machine with rotating beam shafts.

Fabrics were made from banana bast, hemp and nettle fibers, flax, wool, silk - depending on the region, climate and traditions.

art costume primitive society

CONCLUSION

Thirty thousand years of archaic culture have not disappeared. We have inherited rites, rituals, symbols, monuments, and stereotypes of primitive cults. It is no coincidence that remnants of primitive beliefs have been preserved in all religions, as well as in the traditions and way of life of the peoples of the world.

In many cases, the differences between a civilized person and a primitive person turn out to be rather apparent; in reality, the basic features of the mind are the same. The main indicators of intelligence are common to all humanity. The art of the primitive era served as the basis for the further development of world art. Culture Ancient Egypt, Sumer, Iran, India, China arose on the basis of everything that was created by primitive predecessors.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

1. Lyubimov L.D. Art of the Ancient World: - 2nd ed. - M.: Education, 1980. - 320 p. with ill.

2. Ismailova S. Encyclopedia for children: - 2nd ed. - M.: Avanta+ 1993. - 690 p.

3. Skovorodkin V.M. Culturology: Tutorial. - M.: MGIU, 2000. - 254 p.

4. Sapronov P.A. Culturology: A course of lectures on the theory and history of culture. - St. Petersburg: SOYUZ, 1998. - 560 p.

5.http://afield.org.ua/mod3/mod84_1.phtml.

6. http://www.costumehistory.ru/#top.

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