How to distinguish cheap from expensive perfumes. Perfume component How to distinguish cheap perfumes from expensive perfumes

Ingredients for perfumes can be incredibly expensive for a number of understandable reasons, the main of which is the difficulty in obtaining these very components. Some of them are plant extracts that can be collected only at certain times: for example, before sunrise or only one month a year.

There are also components that are obtained from the stomach of whales or from the glands of deer of a rare breed. Some gourmet ingredients are extracted from wood or use raw materials of animal origin (the latter makes the use of such perfumes ethically questionable for vegetarians and vegans). Here are the six most expensive fragrances that make up perfumes:

1. Jasmine

  A synthetic analogue of this ingredient is used in the vast majority of perfumed products. But there is also a natural jasmine extract. To get natural jasmine oil, they process a huge amount of collected flowers. In addition to the impressive amount of raw materials that need to be spent, it is also very fragile. It is necessary to protect the petals from damage and fully preserve their aroma in order to translate it into a perfume masterpiece. Therefore, the processing speed of raw materials is extremely important, which also affects its cost.

2. Bulgarian rose oil

  Rose petals are an even more expensive and valuable material for the perfume industry. The collection season is very short, and the collection process is technically complicated. Firstly, each flower on a prickly bush should be cut individually and very carefully. Secondly, the collection takes place almost in the dark - in the early morning, before dawn. The collected flowers are immediately taken to the plant in a special container, where they are carefully processed.


  Due to the extreme high cost of pink raw materials, its fakes flood the perfume market. In addition to synthetic surrogates, some suppliers manage to mix pink extract with geranium or palmmarose oil. In any case, the original recipe suffers greatly from such manipulations.

3. Musk

Natural musk is the leader among the most expensive components of perfumery. Now it is almost completely replaced by a synthetic analogue, which with the development of the chemical industry can be used in most perfume compositions without loss of quality and originality. But, in fact, musk is the secretion of the glands of musk deer. Its popularity is due to the fact that it fixes the aroma well and makes it very persistent. Currently, in the wild, musk deer have become endangered animals that are hunted only by poachers. Having made sure that synthetic musk is used in the perfume, even vegans can use them.


  4. Violet root

  Another expensive fragrance is iris or orris, also known as the "violet root." The essential oil of this plant is used in eau de toilette, perfume and colognes. It is quite difficult to mine - the extraction method is used. Then, the intermediate raw materials are exposed to diluted sulfuric acid and steam. Use Iris pale, Germanic, as well as Florentine. The yield of a useful product is only a fraction of a percent of the total mass of raw roots. Therefore, both the cultivation and processing of natural raw materials of this plant is one of the most expensive.

5. Agar tree

  Agar oil derived from agarwood (oud) is simply a magical ingredient, from the point of view of all fans of exclusive perfumes. Perhaps, for a layman, the oud flavor at the first meeting will be too harsh and unusual. The most expensive tree in the world has been used to base a variety of incense for several centuries. Especially famous for the content of this component are the flavors created in Arab countries. In Japan and India, oud is also very much appreciated. Among other things, it is part of the therapeutic compositions offered by alternative medicine. The resinous core from which the satisfactory oil is extracted must be affected by a special kind of bacteria. And the precious component of agar is the result of a tree developing a kind of protection.


  6. Amber

Like natural musk, natural ambergris played the role of a fixing agent in compound aromas. Now they have learned to synthesize it in the laboratory. But real ambergris is formed in the intestines of the sperm whale for digesting food, and then it is excreted from the body with other waste products. At first, the substance resembles a liquid, darkish mass, which gradually hardens in the sun. If you touch it and warm it with your hands, you can hear a surprisingly attractive, enchanting aroma. Natural ambergris is one of the three most expensive perfume ingredients.

14.04.2016

Creating new flavors is akin to magic. Only in the skillful hands of the perfumer can a unique combination be born, which is destined to become famous perfumes. Today in our ranking only the most popular components, without which most perfume compositions are not complete. Having learned more about some of the participants in the Top 10 most famous perfume components, you will be quite surprised.

10. Galbanum

It's no secret that modern chemists have learned to reproduce the aromas of freshly cut grass, cucumber or watermelon without leaving the laboratory. However, there is a plant whose natural aroma conveys all this range of smells. We are talking about such a perennial as galbanum. For several centuries, this plant was considered a valuable medicine not only in its homeland - in Iran and Afghanistan - but throughout Europe. If the leaves of the plant are damaged, milky juice is secreted, which quickly turns into tar in the air. It was in this form that galbanum was used for medical purposes by the ancient Aesculapius, saving patients from mental disorders, and healing inflammation of the skin. Since the 19th century, galbanum has been used in perfumery. Professionals compare the smell of this plant with the scents of the forest. A true fan of galbanum was the legendary perfumer Jacques Guerlain. It was he who first began to use the essential oil of galbanum in perfume compositions in high concentration. This bold experiment was the fragrance Night Flight, dedicated to the writer and good friend of Guerlain, Antoine de Saint-Exupery. It was in honor of his work that the new fragrance from Guerlain was named.

9. Incense

The history of this fragrance deserves respect. So, incense is mentioned in the Bible, where in value it is equal to gold. Even today, not a single church rite among Christians can do without it. A source of incense is a Boswellian tree, which is also called an incense tree. In February, small incisions are made on the trees, from which milky sap stands out abundantly and for a long time. Over time, the juice hardens, turning into resin. It is the resin that is used to produce the essential oil, which is used in perfumery. But during worship, pieces of tar are set on fire. Smoldering, they exude a rather strong aroma. Today, the world leader in the export of incense is Somalia. It is curious that in perfumery compositions a strongly-smelling incense is difficult to distinguish, since it only sets off other aromas, never dominating.

8. Musk

Musk in perfumery began to be used in the XV century. This substance, according to professionals, gives the aroma a seductive sensuality. Musk comes from musk deer, a type of roe deer. The musky gland is located in the animal under the skin on the abdomen, and is a small sac with a diameter of 4-8 cm. During the breeding season, the musk deer mark the territory with the secret of this gland, attracting females. Previously, for the extraction of musk, the animal had to be killed. In order to get 1 kg of the substance, it was necessary to destroy up to 40 goals. Today, musk is mined in a much more humane way on special farms. For this, the animal is caught and fixed in a trap. And then the musk deer is euthanized for 30-40 minutes. During this time, with the help of a silver spatula, the contents of the musk gland are withdrawn, and upon awakening, the animal is released into the wild until the next breeding season. In appearance, musk resembles ground coffee, but the smell is sharp, ammonia. Alcohol tincture smells less intense, and much more noble. Musky notes are most often found in perfumery compositions with oriental flavor. True, natural musk is rarely used in perfumery today, replacing it with cheaper artificial counterparts.

7. Sandalwood

Getting this perfume ingredient today is often a crime. This is the case in India with the production of sandalwood essential oil. After all, the export of wood and sandalwood oil in this country is under the strictest ban. The reason for this was large-scale felling of trees, which threatens the complete extinction of the species. Such excitement is dictated by the high cost of raw materials. So, for 1 kg of sandalwood oil today will have to pay 1 thousand dollars. This oil was used in shamanistic rituals as an offering to the gods in antiquity. In addition, the smell of sandalwood often accompanies meditation, as it allows you to relax and overcome the spleen. By the way, it was precisely for these qualities that the sandalwood was popular with folk doctors. In perfumery, sandalwood oil is perhaps one of the most popular ingredients. Moreover, its unobtrusive woody notes are appropriate in both male and female fragrances.

6. Rose

In the world there are a great many varieties of this flower, but in perfumery, only two species are most popular. This is a Centifolia rose, which is still grown in French Provence today, and, of course, the famous Damascena rose, which has become a symbol of Bulgaria. Gardeners who grow roses know the capricious nature of this flower. There are wisdom at the time of harvest. So, in the midday heat, rose petals are not collected, since the high temperature makes their aroma stronger, but not so delicate. And this means that the bulk of the petals are collected at dawn, in a hurry to complete the work before half-past eight. Products collected at this time are of excellent quality. An experienced picker can prepare up to 8 kg of petals per hour. From this mass a little more than 1 gram of essential oil will be made. During the day, workers collect up to 50 kg of delicate petals.

5. Orange blossom

Bitter orange blooms in April-May. We have the flowers of Citrus aurantium amara are better known as orange blossom. Translated from French, it is nothing but an “orange flower”. And although the birthplace of this plant is in southern China, for several centuries it has been feeling fine in the Mediterranean. In France, in particular, orange blossom is an invariable attribute of every wedding ceremony. These flowers are often included in the bride’s bouquet, or decorate her head in the form of a wreath. However, the mission of flowers with a delicate aroma is not limited to this. Otherwise, what are they doing in the Top 10 most famous perfume ingredients? As a result of distillation of bitter orange flowers, neroli essential oil is obtained. Rumor has it that the oil owes this name to the Duchess of Orcini de neroli, who in the 16th century was a devoted fan of this fragrance. But the oil obtained from leaves and branches is called petigrene. Even the peel of an orange is used, and this essential oil is called bigarad.

4. Lavender

Lavender was once an incredibly sought-after perfume ingredient. At the beginning of the last century, British men smelled fresh lavender cologne. However, lavender is no longer in vogue today. Perfumers do not risk making this smell the main one in the aroma of new perfumes. This happened due to the fact that today the smell of lavender is increasingly used as a fragrance for household chemicals. Its fresh scent is associated with a clean bed and a tidied house. A good reputation for aroma, but little is suitable as the basis for perfumes. But, in addition to the aroma, lavender is endowed with other remarkable qualities. For example, lavender oil is an excellent antiseptic, and contributes to the rapid healing of wounds. To find out about this helped a small incident that happened with the perfumer Renee-Marie Gattefoss. While working in the laboratory, he severely burned his hand, and reflexively pulling it, accidentally landed in a tub of lavender oil. And then Gatefoss was surprised to find that the pain subsided pretty quickly. Later, the perfumer noticed that the burn heals much faster than usual. In order to enhance the effect, he began to apply compresses with lavender oil to the wound, which contributed to a speedy recovery. Knowing the antiseptic properties of lavender, it is used today in cosmetology and medicine. True, real lavender grows high in the Alps, and is quite expensive. And on the Provence fields of lavender color, which attract many tourists, in fact, it is not lavender itself that grows, but its hybrid - lavender.

3. Iris

In nature, there are about 300 species of irises. And only a couple of them are interesting to perfume manufacturers. These are irises of florentina and pallida varieties, which grow in Morocco and not far from Italian Florence. Perfumers are not at all interested in the flowers of this plant, however, its rhizomes are very attracted. The thing is that after a certain treatment, the iris root begins to smell like a forest violet. But in order to achieve a similar effect, one should use the rhizomes of the plant, which is at least three years old. By the way, the same amount of root will have to be dried. And only after that the roots are ground, poured with water, and distilled. From 1 ton of dry roots, you can get only 2 kg of essential oil. These figures are the best way to speak about the cost of this fragrance.

2. African stone

Hiraceum or the so-called African stone today is actively used in perfumery as an aroma fixer. This substance is fermented waste products of rocky damans. These small animals the size of a cat live in colonies, and for the sending of their natural needs for years choose the same place. For several centuries, under the influence of the scorching African sun, feces fermented and petrified, but did not lose a peculiar musky smell. I must say that before the perfumers "African stone" was in great demand among local tribes. Shamans used it to treat toothache, cramps, otitis media and nervous disorders.

1. Amber

This substance is part of most expensive perfumes. Ambergris is a kind of fixative. Its presence in the perfume composition allows aromas to evaporate more slowly, lingering on the skin. What is the nature of ambergris? Surprisingly, this substance is a vital product of sperm whales. It is formed only in the intestines of the male, and is a reaction to the use by him of a large amount of squid. Initially, ambergris has a dark color, a viscous consistency and a disgusting fecal smell. But under the influence of light and salty ocean water, the substance brightens, hardens, and acquires a noble smell. The most valuable is the so-called white ambergris, highlighted by time and nature to gray. It is noteworthy that ambergris is easily soluble in alcohol, and does not dissolve in water at all. And at a temperature of 100 ° C the ambergris evaporates, leaving only a white cloud on itself. As you know, today whaling is illegal, and the only way to get ambergris is to find it on the shores of the Atlantic Ocean. Most often these are small pieces, but quite weighty specimens also happen. So, in 1942, a piece of ambergris weighing 340 kg was found on the coast of Madeira. Be that as it may, but perfume companies literally hunt for this substance, since natural ambergris has such qualities that no synthesized substance can replace.

To create unique aromas, perfumers have learned to use very unusual ingredients. And many succeeded in this. Indeed, other spirits are able to cheer up, fill with energy and inspire confidence. It is only important to find your own smell. Have you already succeeded, or is your search for your favorite fragrance still ongoing?

Real perfumes are expensive. What are they made of? To create perfumes, both natural components and materials of chemical origin are used. Naturally, perfumes made using plant-based raw materials will cost more than synthetic aromatics. So what are perfumes made of?

Perfume is the most persistent fragrance. They consist of:

  • Essential oils - 15-30%;
  • 96% alcohol;
  • Distilled water;
  • Dyes.

It is this composition that allows the fragrance to open up gradually. When applied, we feel the top notes of the composition. Over time, the smell changes, revealing the "notes of the heart" of perfume. After that, the aroma changes again, and we feel the final “chords” of spirits - loop notes. The composition of perfumes can include up to 300 components that together create a unique aroma.

Raw materials for perfumes

To get an interesting composition, perfumers use various raw materials. Currently, more than 6 thousand items are used. Not only flower petals are used, but also roots, stems, herbs, fruits, buds, mosses. And how many do they need? For example, to get 500 ml of jasmine essential oil, you need to process two tons of the petals of this flower. To get the same amount of rose oil, you need 2500kg of rose petals. The most expensive component of perfume is iris. Its cost reaches 40,000 euros per 1 kg. But progress does not stand still. Chemists have long learned to synthesize oils from more available components. These substances are called aldehydes. The smell of this does not get worse, but the price is lower.

One of the important roles in creating perfumes is played by oils of animal origin. Their task is not only to add an interesting note to the composition, but also to achieve harmony between the smells of human skin and perfumes. There are four such components:

  • Ambergris is a hardened, fragrant product that forms in the intestines of a sperm whale.
  • Castoreum - secreted by the endocrine glands of beavers.
  • Musk is an odorous secret that is obtained from the glands of a male musk musk deer (family of roe deer).
  • Cibet is a substance secreted by the gland of some animals from the civet family.

Unfortunately, the animal does not always remain alive, so one cannot fail to appreciate the contribution of chemists who seek and find substances that can replace these components.

Chanel

Some people are interested in the composition of perfumes "Chanel No. 5". I would like to note that the creation of this composition would not be possible without chemical synthesis. Aldehydes, chemically synthesized components predominate at the base of perfumes. Top notes are pink pepper, iris, hyacinth, pineapple and patchouli. The heart of the composition is citruses and jasmine. Well, the final chords are vanilla, white musk, vitiver and patchouli.

And finally, I would like to note that real perfumes “hold” on the skin for 5 hours or more, on clothes up to 30 hours. On different people, the same fragrance “unfolds” in different ways. And if you liked any perfumes of your girlfriend, do not rush to take yourself the same. First, spray a little on your wrist and smell it after a while, maybe this is not your smell.

Perfume component

First letter "a"

The second letter is "m"

Third letter "b"

Last beech letter "a"

The answer to the question "Component of perfume", 5 letters:
ambergris

Alternative crossword puzzles for ambergris

g. an incense substance found by clods at the seaside is believed to be from the intestines of whales (sperm whales). Black ambergris, in trade, jet of black amber. Ambergris smell is found only when smoking it

Voskopodobny substance from sperm whale for perfumery

A substance used in perfumery to give resistance to the smell of perfume

Whale incense

"wax" in the inside of a sperm whale

Incense (obsolete)

Perfume Fixer

Gift whale to perfumers

Incense

Dictionary definition of ambergris

Great Soviet Encyclopedia Meaning of the word in the dictionary Great Soviet Encyclopedia
   (from Arabic: Anbar), a wax-like substance formed in the digestive tract of a sperm whale; It is also found floating in water or being washed ashore. A. chunks are round in shape, weigh from a few kg to 300–400 kg; density 900≈920 kg / m3, ...

Examples of the use of the word amber in the literature.

He had already met many of these materials before, in the market - in flower rows and rows with spices, others were new to him, and he filtered them from aromatic mixtures and kept them nameless in his memory: ambergris, cibetin, patchouli, sandalwood, bergamot, benzoin, hop color, beaver stream.

Of course, for the arrangement, for the reference middle and resolving notes, for sharpening and fixing the sound, neither musk, nor civet, nor rose oil, nor ambergris, it is clear.

Here ambergris   with pink water merged, And the atlas adorned with lines: Like, if the daughter gives birth to Shakhra, then the mother is obliged to give her to the Tsar.

Saffron and musk, rose and daffodil, And myrtle, and ambergris   - all for sweet vis.

Like milk and wine, they merged, They fused like a rose and a daffodil, Mixed like ambergris   and aloe, As with pearls - a golden whip.