There are several versions of the origin of such a capacious and precise concept, but there is an indisputable fact: on September 7, 1992, in an article in the Kommersant newspaper, the term “new Russians” was first used in relation to a certain group of people who quickly got rich after the collapse Soviet Union of people. It is worth noting that in the English form the phrase “New Russians” has been used since the 1990s, so here we can also talk about the translation of a foreign expression into Russian.
The founder of the fashion for crimson jackets was Sergei Mavrodi
In addition, there is an opinion that the “new Russians” are a kind of linguistic play on the French word “nouveau riche,” which literally translates as “new rich man.” An interesting detail is that at the end of the 19th century, when Russian Empire The industrial revolution was rapidly taking place, and the word “skorichach” or “soon-rich” came into widespread use - a person who managed to make a substantial fortune in a limited time. All these terms, however, have an important common feature - they have one way or another a negative connotation in relation to their object.
A typical representative of the “new Russians”
“New Russians” appear at the end of late Soviet society. The first representatives of this social stratum were the so-called “guild workers” or owners of illegal underground industries engaged in the production of scarce products. During the years of perestroika, private entrepreneurial activity was legalized in the forms of the cooperative movement. At the same time, on the basis of the capital's district committees of the Komsomol, Centers for Scientific and Technical Creativity of Youth (TSNTTM) were created, which became the first business structures in the USSR. CNTTM marked the beginning of the process of exchanging nomenklatura power for property, which later led to a significant merger of business representatives and those in power. Party workers, officials, energetic business executives, retired officers of the army, the KGB and the Ministry of Internal Affairs flocked to business.
The slogan of one TV program from the 90s: “ New program for new Russians"
In addition to people from the nomenklatura, representatives of all walks of life flocked to business. Enterprising engineers, scientists, doctors, teachers, athletes, who had the ability for commercial activities, energy and ambition, opened their own businesses.
Representatives of criminal structures also took part in the formation of the nascent layer of entrepreneurs, who took on the functions of security and patronage (the so-called “protection protection”), demanding considerable sums for this. “Protection protection”, as well as trade in illegal goods and services (weapons, drugs, elimination of competitors, etc.) became a way of accumulating initial capital, which was then transferred into forms of legal business.
Nikita Mikhalkov brilliantly played a typical “new Russian” in the film “Zhmurki”
“New Russians” became an independent, rather closed social stratum, which in a short time developed its own ideology and value system, thus forming a unique subculture. It is worth noting that during the years of Soviet power, the entrepreneurial tradition was practically lost and had to be revived virtually from scratch. The rich have traditionally been perceived rather negatively in Russian culture; the inevitable question always arose about the sources and methods of enrichment, and a professional in the field of trade was somewhat disparagingly designated by the word “huckster.”
The attitude of the new Russian to the traditional Soviet man found its expression in the word “sovok”. The new Russian is an individualist, firmly on the ground, alien to various intellectual “troubles”, such as the idea of selfless service for the good of the fatherland or the impracticality of his behavior. The demonstrative characteristics of the “new Russian” lifestyle are opposed to Soviet traditions.
The image of the “new Russians” is played out in the TV series “Brigada”
However, the mythologized character “new Russian”, the hero of numerous jokes, is to a greater extent associated with traditional social groups of historical Russia. This is, first of all, the philistinism, whose representatives, under all circumstances, under any government, arrange their lives, strive to provide their family, children, and closest relatives with everything they need. On the other hand, in the image of the “new Russian” one can recognize the traditional Russian robber, wasting easy money, exchanging despicable metal for the noisy delight and approval of his comrades, drinking companions and clients.
A staged shot that perfectly reflects some of the realities of the 90s
Speaking about a typical representative of the “new Russians”, one cannot fail to mention the traditional attributes of this social group:
"Crimson jacket." It is believed that the very idea outerwear The “new Russians” borrowed this color from the players of the elite intellectual club “What? Where? When?" However, it is also worth noting here the extraordinary thirst for purchasing “branded” items, directly from the largest fashion designers in the world. So, in 1992, Gianni Versace presented his new collection, in which crimson jackets became the highlight of the program, and after the show all self-respecting Russian businessmen considered it obligatory to dress in Versace. The crimson jacket has become an indispensable element of the wardrobe of almost any nouveau riche. The crimson color could probably be associated in the minds of the “new Russians” with the criminal slang word “raspberry”, which meant a den of thieves or, in general, anything good, convenient or free.
Beaver hairstyle. This type of haircut involves cutting the hair in the area of the temples and the back of the head, and at the same time relatively long hair remain in the form of bangs, decreasing towards the back of the head. It is believed that such an image visually reduces the volume of the head and makes the owner of the haircut look rough and very muscular. This is probably why such a simple silhouette has become so popular among the “new Russians”.
"Golda." A massive gold chain around the neck was worn exclusively untucked, for example, over a silk shirt. This chain was perfectly complemented by weighty rings and bracelets.
“Looking for a job with risk” - such an advertisement could be found in newspapers
"Fingering." Special specific gestures of the “new Russian”. In the vocabulary of thieves, the “goat” gesture is often used, with the help of which a warning is issued to the interlocutor about the threat of gouging out his eyes. It is also very likely that the characteristic “fingering” of the “new Russians” is reminiscent of the peculiar arrangement of the fingers when gripping a pistol: thumb is located on the safety, the index finger is on the trigger, and ring finger squeezes the handle.
"Boilers". One of the main attributes of a true “new Russian” was the obligatory presence of expensive Swiss watches, for example, the Rolex brand. Gold watches inlaid with gold were held in special esteem precious stones. Speaking about the origin of the term “boilers” itself, several versions of its origin can be given. Since most blat expressions come from Yiddish, the word “cauldron” may be of the same origin, which means a round tower on which the clock stands. In the English lexicon of thieves there is a term “kettle banger” - a thief who specializes in stealing watches. The word “boilers” could also have a domestic etymology: in prison camps, the beginning of the lunch break was indicated by a special signal, which was played using dishes (pots) like a bell. In this case, the pan is a cauldron. As a result, for the prisoners, the word “boilers” metaphorically meant time, and later this name stuck to wristwatches.
Typical “negotiations” in the office of the “new Russian”
"The six hundredth Mercedes." The Mercedes-Benz S600 model has become business card"new Russians". The flagship of the European automotive industry in the early 90s was the dream of representatives of the nascent domestic business. In addition to the “Cossack”, the “six hundredth” became the second automobile hero of Russian folklore. Unlike BMW cars, which were called “ransomware fighting vehicles,” the “600th” received a fairly neutral emotional connotation. It is worth noting that the first Mercedes in Russia belonged not to a businessman, but to a politician, Vladimir Zhirinovsky.
"Cabbage". This word meaning “money” appeared in thieves’ jargon along with the terms “forks” and “filki”. Taking into account the presence in ordinary language of the phrase “forks of cabbage” (i.e., a head of cabbage), as well as the remote similarity of such a fork with a stack of bills (especially on the cut), one can understand the origin of this term. In addition, cabbage is a green vegetable whose color refers to the American currency “dollars” or “bucks”. One of the witty essayists of the 90s noted: “The self-confident Mr. Dollar, having entered our Zone and received the nickname Bucks, loses his respectability and begins to behave in an unpredictable way. A lemon in a Xerox box is not the same as a million dollars in a bank.”
This dark and wild period of modern Russian history started in the late 80s. Total control state suddenly turned into absolute freedom, but for many it was simply too tough for them. New heroes of that time entered the field: unprincipled and cruel groups capable of doing anything for their own benefit.
Transport
Normal guys drove around the area in a VAZ 2109 - it was convenient for the whole team to jump into it after a job. More serious guys also had more serious cars: BMW “fives” and, of course, the legendary Jeep Grand Cherokee SUVs were popular. The main symbol of that lawless era was undoubtedly the Mercedes S 600.
Weapon
An extensive inventory was used as an everyday tool: nunchucks, brass knuckles, butterfly knives and even baseball bats, rare at that time. Firearms were carried in large quantities, the bandits loved Chinese TTs, but did not disdain the “Parabellums” and “Walters” left over from war times.
Sport
Those who first of all flocked for easy money were those who had nothing to lose and nothing to hope for. Children from residential areas whiled away puberty in basement rocking chairs, so sports, as they say, was in their blood. Often, failed guys from big sports, wrestlers and boxers, joined the already formed teams.
Entertainment
Money appeared as quickly as it was mined. The “lads” had not yet imagined any special entertainment for themselves - a sauna, girls, expensive tracksuits, and body kits for their favorite car. In the early 90s, nightclubs and casinos became one of the main signs of the times: the Moscow Metelitsa, for example, gained fame as the main gangster establishment.
Raspberry jacket and gold signets
Today, stories about crimson jackets are perceived as jokes, but at that time they really became a hallmark of the development of banditry throughout the country. The image of a crook, first of all, signaled impudence: they say, here I am, standing smart and you can see me a mile away. Gold rings have come back into fashion, and a signet for several fingers at once has become a hit.
Gangster Wars
The main redistribution of the market took place in the capital. The war began as a wild fight of all against all, but gradually the groups had to unite, first against SOBR and OMON units, and then against much more evil and unprincipled people from Chechnya.
Sports cars
The constant threat to life forced the “boys” to reconsider their understanding of “correct” cars. Of course, frets-nines have not gone anywhere - a consumable item, convenient for getting around your area. But executive cars were replaced by more practical, fast and maneuverable sports cars, with preference given to the Pontiac sports coupe and, naturally, the Jaguar.
Cemetery fashion
Constant showdowns led to the formation special treatment brothers for death and funeral. They buried their own with pomp: a cavalcade expensive cars rolled through the city center to the hysterical screams of horns. Monuments to the departed warrior resembled works of art, and musical coffins came into fashion.
Acquired this appearance, unknown. Perhaps this fashion is a consequence of the shortage of consumer goods (including clothing) during the “decline of the USSR”. Owners of crimson jackets thus emphasized that they could afford anything. In 1992, at Paris Fashion Week, Versace designers show a new collection: classic pants and bright red jackets. Not even a month passes before similar outfits appear on new Russians.
1992-1994
The following explanation is also possible: when Russia’s borders were opened for imports during Gaidar’s reforms of early 1992, Western consumer goods of the cheapest segment, such as, for example, first began to be imported into scarce Russian markets. women's shoes with stiletto heels made of oilcloth from the Vigorous brand, sweatpants made of the finest wrinkled nylon in bright, flashy colors with a diagonal stripe running down the legs, and chocolate bars from Mars. In the early 90s, Russians were not yet accustomed to the variety of consumer goods produced in the world and had not yet built in their minds the “cheap / inexpensive-and-good / expensive-and-respectable / elite” scale. Due to the inertia of Soviet times, any import was perceived as something prestigious. It is worth noting that in the USSR, in many categories of consumer goods there was no such stratification into categories, which is generally accepted in capitalism and is the basics of marketing.
The prestige of any import overpowered even the canons. For example, women's suit about incompatible colors and incompatible style elements (classic / sporty).
Crimson jackets (there were both green and red) were among the first men's imported goods. Thus, a man wearing a crimson jacket was roughly equivalent to a woman wearing a suit of the above described sweatpants and Vigorous stilettos, which was common at the time.
1994-1998
At first, such jackets were rare, but then everyone who wanted to create the image of a “new Russian” began to wear them. Fashion has turned into a farce, the “raspberry jacket” has migrated to jokes. A respectable men again put on traditional colors: gray, black, beige and striped.
In 1996, a crimson jacket became a sign of a person from the lower classes, usually under the age of thirty, uneducated (and having no prospects in any other social system), who suddenly received a significant income. In the novel “Chapaev and Emptiness” crimson jackets are worn by pimps and cocaine dealers, who in their next life become bulls in a slaughterhouse.
The fashion for crimson jackets began in August 1998, after the collapse of the GKO. The collapse of the GKO itself did not affect fashion in any way; it was the general development of capitalism in Russia and the saturation of Russian consumer goods markets with goods of all price categories, including those goods that were considered prestigious and elite in Western countries. In the conditions of such development of markets, crimson jackets have sunk into oblivion, as have women's combinations from cheap sweatpants with cheap classic style shoes.
Sources and notes
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What distinguishes the new Russian of the 90s from the Russian businessman of our days? Let's carry out an associative series. The first thing that comes to mind: mobile phones the size of sneakers, fat ones and crosses on the chest, man purses, domestic cars for those who are poorer, and black foreign cars for the real rich. But the most important thing is the crimson jackets. Only in this image do the pot-bellied and bald nouveau riche look exactly as befits their status.
Yes, at present, the crimson jacket is indeed a characteristic feature of the long-gone era of financial pyramids, the rapid activity of the Russian mafia, the development of market trade, the abandonment of censorship on television and in the press, the decline in the standard of living of the average population and the flourishing of prostitution, alcoholism, drug addiction ... Yes, these were our 90s. But let's return to the new Russians and their style.
It is no coincidence that the crimson jacket appeared on the shelves of retail outlets and in expensive boutiques in the capital. According to history, in the early 90s, namely in 1992, the Versace Fashion House showed the world a new collection, the main focus of which was jackets raspberry color. The nouveau riche, who had not previously followed fashion trends and did not have large sums of money in their pockets, decided that their status needed to be emphasized in a bright and memorable way. Thus, those who were richer purchased originals from Versace, while aspiring entrepreneurs and bandits were content with Chinese copies. So the crimson jacket became the uniform of the new Russians. Designers of the former All-Union Republic (Slava Zaitsev, for example) also worked for the benefit of the bandits, sewing more and more new clothing models.
How did you supplement your new image gangsters from the 90s? Those who were especially daring and daring were not afraid to combine a crimson jacket with sweatpants from Adidas and classic shoes from artificial leather. Those who were close to the elite did not allow themselves such luxury and made do with black trousers, but never forgot about gold jewelry and a man purse.
In general, the jacket is only a symbol of the era, but in fact, a lot can be said about the style and life of the new Russians of the early 90s. For example, they all built the same red brick houses, like castles. Until now, similar architectural structures under construction can be found in holiday villages near the city. When choosing a car, the nouveau riche also did not show imagination. As a rule, rich brothers bought themselves models, BMW or the good old VAZ-21099.
Returning to fashion, it is worth mentioning that due to well-known political events, the “Iron Curtain” was opened, and cheap, low-quality goods from Turkey and China began to be actively imported into the country. Hungry for new items, bandits and their wives actively acquired fashionable trash and were considered the style setters of all Rus'. Thin-heeled pumps made from a variety of synthetic materials, bootcut jeans from brands unknown to the world, and much more. Among other things, children's toys from China, American toys (which are still popular) and much more appeared in markets and stores, which we all now remember with some nostalgia.
Of course, even now you can buy a crimson jacket in any fashion department (fortunately, fashion is cyclical), but that era can no longer be returned. The 90s are history.
The crimson jacket is a companion of the “new Russians” and crime bosses of the 90s.
One of the main symbols of the 1990s were red or crimson jackets, which bandits and “new Russians” preferred to wear.
In fact, of course, this part of the classic men's suit even then it was mostly black, gray or blue, but the percentage of parrot colors was indeed much higher than today.
How did it happen that the most serious and concrete citizens of our country got into such a comical style?
Background
Andrey Kozlov, master of the “What? Where? When?" assured that crimson jackets began to be worn after extravagant connoisseurs began to wear them. It is not very clear why the bandits decided to imitate the “elite club” (and in general became interested in this TV show), although, on the other hand, there was really significant money circulating there.
Some believe that the founder of the raspberry fashion was Sergey Mavrodi- when I decided to congratulate the Russians on the upcoming 1994 in the appropriate outfit. This is all the more unlikely to be true, since the head of the MMM financial pyramid - even in his atypical combed form - is a little less suitable for the role of a trendsetter.
In fact, the Italians are to blame for everything. When the USSR had just collapsed and its ex-citizens (not all, far from all) began to legalize their capital and travel around the world, they also developed an interest in clothing: the mousy Soviet fashion no longer suited the brothers who had taken a breath of freedom.
And then in 1992 in Paris, at Haute Couture Week, Versace rolled out a completely ridiculous collection of suits, where bright red jackets were combined (or rather, screamingly Not combined) with gray trousers. Some of the samples were immediately snapped up by guests from a distant eastern country, and soon Russian market was filled with both original red-crimson outfits and Polish and Turkish fakes.
Perhaps the cult of raspberry jackets was also supported by the fact that the word “raspberry” itself (1. House, apartment, dwelling. 2. A hangout, a gathering place for some kind of company. 3. Something good, free, comfortable. 4. A place where there are many women) especially warmed the thieves’ soul.
However, not only “new Russians” wore such clothes, but also quite decent officials. First President of Ukraine Leonid Kravchuk tells how he met the future president of Russia, who in those years worked as the deputy mayor of St. Petersburg: “I noticed the man in the crimson jacket. "Who is this?" - I asked. " Vladimir Putin“, they answered me. Very beautiful, ultra-modern. Then all the businessmen wore this, everyone was cool...”
At the same time, a photograph circulating on the Internet shows Putin in a crimson jacket and Adidas sweatpants standing next to Sobchak- a crude fake.
Genre crisis
By 1996, crimson jackets had already become a joke and began to be perceived as something outdated, a sign of the primitiveness of the owner of this item of clothing. The period of initial accumulation of capital has passed, the “new Russians” are finally divided into losers - bandits, pimps, small drug dealers - and masters of life, big businessmen and officials. Many of the former moved with their jackets one and a half to two meters underground, while the latter learned harmony, became aesthetes and dressed to the envy of the English lords.
Therefore, now all that remains from those times are memories... and those jackets that were lucky enough to survive the period of their popularity (and often their own owners). The largest collection of crimson jackets in Russia is called “Real Outfit” and belongs to Dmitry Funtikov. These are not museum pieces, jackets are bought and sold, so in a fit of nostalgia you can buy or rent the most striking attribute of the 1990s.
Second birth
Apparently, in memory of those stupid, dangerous, but also romantic times, the leadership of Rospotrebnadzor in 2007 decided to introduce a uniform of painfully familiar colors. Now, when an employee of this respected department comes to check, for example, a store, one immediately remembers the dashing attacks of the brothers from the nineties on the businessmen they protected.
