◄ CLEVERLY INVENTED
Transparent glass jars are convenient for storing not only pasta, rice and other cereals. It is also advisable to put threads in them, grouping them by color: visually and beautifully.

POLYESTER THREADS
These durable threads are suitable for all seams and topstitching.
Plus: also good for seams with heavy loads (eg from Gütermann).

SILK THREAD FOR BUTTONLETS
The name speaks for itself. These threads are intended for buttonhole sewing, but are also suitable for decorative seams.
Plus: the seams look brilliant (eg from Gütermann).


SECTIONAL DYING THREAD
Universal threads for machine embroidery are suitable for all motifs.
Plus: embroideries look surprisingly noble (for example, from Madeira).


LINEN THREAD
These natural threads are great for hand sewing durable fabrics.
Plus: also suitable for craft projects (eg from Gütermann).


Twisted threads
The strongest threads on the star are suitable only for hand sewing.
Plus: these threads can also be used to repair backpacks, bags, etc. (for example, from Kaufhaus).

BATTING THREADS
Suitable for hand sewing and basting parts.
Plus: threads break quickly and are easily removed from thin fabrics (Kaufhaus).


QUILTING THREAD
These threads are designed specifically for machine quilting.
Plus: the threads are especially strong and have a very beautiful shine (for example, from Gütermann).


METALLIZED THREAD
Particularly good for embroidered motifs and decorative stitches.
Plus: suitable for decorating pillows, table linen, etc. (for example, from Madeira).


OVERLOCK THREAD
These thin threads are designed for sewing edges and blind stitches.
Plus: they are transparent, elastic and very durable (for example, from Gütermann).


EMBROIDERY THREAD
Designed for all techniques and stitches.
Plus: the skein is easily divided into individual threads; the threads shimmer like silk (for example, from Anchor).


ELASTIC THREAD
Especially good for ruffles, frills and puffs.
Plus: when crocheting, they hold the shape of sheaves and posts (for example, from Gütermann).

TRANSPARENT THREAD
Drawstring threads are great for invisible hem sewing.
Plus: also suitable for sewing on sequins and beads (for example, from Madeira).

Photo: Jan Schmiedel, Günther Bringer/Studio 43 (11).

Before you start sewing anything, you need to know the characteristics of the threads. They are different types. Different fabrics may require a different type with different characteristics. When selecting, the color, density and processing technique of the fabric are taken into account.

Also, sewing threads - most important factor, on which the quality of work depends sewing machine. No matter how well your machine is set up, it will still produce poor stitching if the wrong or low-quality thread is used. Thin threads will break. When using a thick thread with a thin needle, it will rub in the eye area and also break.

After reading this article, you will be able to choose the right threads for sewing any product, be it bedding, children's clothing, autumn coat or toys.

When characterizing sewing threads, take into account their fibrous composition, thickness and where they are used. So let's get started.

Functions of sewing threads

They make beautiful stitches without tearing or deforming during wear or use. Sewing threads make stitches and seams aesthetically beautiful and of high quality. This is their main difference from other ordinary threads.

Threads used for sewing clothes must be strong. Only such “worthy ones” will be able to withstand the wear and temperature of the needle when sewing, as well as its restoration during wear.

Fibrous composition

Threads are divided into 2 groups:

• First– natural. They contain only natural fibers. Can be cotton, linen and silk. If you are interested, you can find out all the positive properties in our article about.
• Second– chemical. These threads contain chemical fiber. This group has 2 subgroups:
  – artificial (for example, threads made of viscose or polynose).
  – synthetic (for example, polyamide or polyester threads).

Marking

The abbreviation on the marking cannot always be deciphered. As a rule, manufacturers use letters for marking. The numbers indicate the thickness of the thread. The higher the number, the thicker the thread.

Cotton sewing threads (cotton) began to appear in production at the end of the 19th century. Their quality depends on the raw materials and technology used in their manufacturing process. If you are going to sew knitted items, if you need to make temporary stitches or lines, for individual tailoring, for needlework. They are easy to dye - this is one of the main advantages of cotton threads.

Some of the highest quality and most expensive cotton sewing threads are those that have passed. After special cutting, these threads become stronger and less fluffy.

Reinforced sewing threads (LH), (LL), (LS) can withstand temperatures above 200 degrees. They are called universal. They guarantee high strength. Stitches with such threads are elastic and beautiful to look at. As a rule, they are intended for seaming, overcasting and finishing stitches. Reinforced sewing threads, like cotton threads, are suitable for knitwear. They are also used for thin and medium fabrics. For suits and coats. Also for shoes, leather (and substitutes), denim products.

Polyester staple threads (LS)- they are more even. They differ from the previous ones in greater elasticity. They are used to overcast sections, sew knitted items, and are used for sewing thin and medium fabrics.

Polyester threads (L)- they are stronger than all previous ones. These threads have improved sewing properties. They are absolutely not afraid of moisture and are not destroyed under its influence. All blind stitches and machine embroideries are made from polyester thread. Embossed decorative seams are also made using this type of thread. They are used to treat impregnated fabrics. Even upholstered furniture and leather goods are processed.

Polyester textured threads (LT) - This is a budget option for threads. At the same time, they are quite elastic. They have a looped structure. Not destroyed by impact high temperature. As a rule, they are used for overcasting sections, as well as for sewing elastic knitwear.

Polyamide sewing threads (K). The threads are quite strong. They do not collapse under the influence of moisture and water. The only negative is low heat resistance. Because of this, the production of these threads is not popular. They are used for shoes, leather goods, sewing books, and for finishing stitches.

Viscose and natural silk threads. They are characterized by a shine that shimmers. But compared to other threads, viscose threads are less durable. They are used in needlework and machine embroidery.

On our website you can get the best wholesale and retail prices. For regular customers there are pleasant bonuses and discounts. You can order in any quantity. Delivery is fast - 1-2 days in all regions of Ukraine. Dispatch on the day of order. You just need to fill out the form and wait for the operator to call to confirm your purchase. The quality of the threads is high. We have the most affordable ordering conditions.

Thread structure

Fiber threads. They are made from natural and synthetic fibers. They are durable, even stronger than cotton different sizes and have a huge collection of flowers.

Frame is a combination of complex thread and fiber. Its design, as a rule, consists of several layers. It is used for sewing things different types. But all of them have the only requirement - high strength of the seams. Suitable for sewing at high speed.

Filament threads. They, in turn, are divided into 3 more subspecies:
- monofilament- the threads are strong, but not entirely flexible and a little hard to the touch;
- smooth monofilament- these are 2 connected continuous fibers; shoes are made from it, Leather Products and things of industry;
- textured filament- they are usually used for securing threads in overlapping stitches.

What threads should not be used?

The answer is simple - old Soviet-style cotton threads. You will say that the USSR is long behind us. But, oddly enough, Soviet-style cotton continues to be used. Such threads can be found in almost every housewife. It is likely that they can still be produced clandestinely. They not only do bad line and often tear during sewing, but also lead to wear on the components of the sewing machine. They can only be used for self made.

• Determine the quality and thickness of the material before purchasing threads.
• Visually inspect the thread. A high-quality one should be smooth and of uniform thickness.
• If you pull it a little, it won't break. It might stretch a little, but it won't tear.
• Poor quality threads, usually with compactions and thin areas. They always get in the way when sewing, as they do not move the needle through the eye well, move jerkily and break off.
• In order not to miss external defects that indicate poor quality, we recommend attaching a thread light color to a dark fabric, or a dark thread to a light one. In contrast, everything can be seen clearly.
• Sewing needle choose by number that corresponds to the thickness of the thread. Only then will the line turn out beautiful and even.
• For an overlocker, it is better to buy thread on a bobbin in the form of a cone with No. 35.

A few secrets

Threads made of polyester and nylon do not fray, as they are strong enough. They are usually used for sewing elastic materials. But there is one caveat. If, for example, these threads are used for knitwear, after a couple of days you may notice that the seams have wrinkled. This can be avoided. You just need to slightly stretch the fabric when sewing the seams.

Experts also advise wrapping the sewing machine sleeve with an elastic band. Pull it as close to the needle bar as possible. The thread needs to be inserted under the stretched elastic band. With the help of this simple way It will be possible to avoid twisting of threads during sewing sewing machine.

If you had to change the thread, check the tension of the upper thread afterwards. You will need to lower the foot, and pull the thread out of the eye of the needle and pull it a little in your direction. The thread should stretch without using special effort, should go smoothly and softly. If not, loosen the tension and adjust it by hand again.

Sewing threads are an indispensable assistant in textile production, both for mass sewing and for beginning needlewomen. They are necessary when sewing decorative items, toys, bedding, clothes for adults and children, etc. you can find them in our online store. Our threads are very strong, although quite thin. They are exactly like this so as not to make the seam visually unaesthetic. The threads are resistant to tearing, friction and washing, so active everyday use will not damage either the thread or the product. A huge collection of colors allows you to choose the thread according to the color of the fabric. Sewing threads do not fade. This allows you to use multiple colors on one canvas. Threads are used not only for sewing but also for embroidery, for sewing on regular and other decor. In ours you will find sewing threads that are ideal for or, or, or for Also in our online store you will find, and much more that is necessary for sewing from A to Z!

These harnesses simply have a lot of advantages - they are delightfully flexible and surprisingly durable, a set necessary materials minimal, decoration options are innumerable. And finally, they are very easy to make :)

But it is not without its drawbacks: (The process often causes addiction, something akin to alcohol - you want to knit more and more ropes, longer and longer, there is a need to try all possible and impossible colors, patterns, shapes. At some point you suddenly you catch yourself thinking, “I haven’t had a drink since this morning, I haven’t knitted today - the day is gone” and you notice that your hands are involuntarily searching for and squeezing an imaginary hook. And if a picture with someone’s harness doesn’t catch your eye - that’s it, good luck, it’s straight to you the road to the treasured bead and thread storage :)

If such a prospect does not scare you and you are ready to take a risk, welcome to the cat. However, if you are ALREADY hooked on them, it’s all the same - welcome! You have nothing to lose anyway :)

SHORT INTRODUCTION

For those who have never encountered THEM before

Knitted plaits are made in two stages:

1) All the beads are strung on a thread, randomly or in a certain order.

2) The tourniquet is knitted in half-columns in a spiral. There are at least three loops at the base of the bundle. Each half-stitch knits a loop with a bead from the previous row and at the same time adds a new loop with a new bead.

Everything written below is the details of these two stages.

MATERIALS AND TOOLS

Basic set

The required set of materials is minimal. These are beads, threads, hook, needle. One of the important conditions for success is their compliance with each other. The following correspondences are my choice; of course, it is not necessary to follow it, because each needlewoman not only has different preferences, but also the technique and knitting density are different.

My favorite bead for this technique is 8/0. Mercerized cotton (Iris, Vita Cotton Pelican, DMC or Ancor Pearl Cotton #8) and classic cotton for crochet (Aunt Lidia's #10, DMC Crochet Cotton #10, etc.) are perfect for it. It is convenient to cast on such beads fine tapestry or embroidery needle - they have a long eye Suitable hooks - approximately 1.65 mm to 1.75 mm.

The same threads/needles are suitable for large 6/0 beads, but I prefer it not as an independent material, but as an addition to 8/0, for relief patterns, spirals, etc.

For smaller beads - 11/0 and 15/0 - a synthetic thread for beading or sewing is well suited; you will need a thin, beaded needle, a hook from approximately 1.3 mm to 1.6 mm. (And also thin fingers, good eyes and strong nerves. Since I don’t have any of the above, one decoration made of small beads was enough for me for now :))

If you want to use Iris or Pearl Cotton #8 with 11/0 beads (which are the most common and easily available beads), you will most likely find that a tapestry needle, and even threaded, will not push through the bead, but The thread does not fit into the beading needle. I got out of the situation by first stringing everything on a thin thread, then tying it with Pearl Cotton and carefully moving the whole set. If you decide to use this method, do not tie the threads together, but tie a thin thread on a thick one so that the knot is made of only a thin thread, and the thick one is simply bent and folded in half.

Another simple way to string small beads onto a thick thread is from rikki_t_tavi : Insert a piece of bead thread into a thin needle, with two ends at once, throw the end of the knitting thread into the loop formed - and calmly pick up even small beads and thin glass beads onto thread No. 5.

One more thing interesting solution for thick thread from olive_enola : http://businka-lisa.livejournal.com/226 59.html?thread=2127235#t2127235

How to determine which beads you have if the label is silent or missing

As easy as pie! Place 1 cm of beads on the needle and count how many you have collected. Now compare with the table:

Additional materials and tools

An additional, optional set - various beads, metal fittings, clasps, some jewelry tools.

However, you can get by with ordinary household tools - depending on what kind of fastener you will make, you may need: small pliers (wrap their ends with a piece of electrical tape to protect the wire from scratches), wire cutters, knitting needle- make rings from wire.

TRAINING ON CATS

For training, we will need 8/0 beads in two colors and a corresponding thickness of thread of any light color - it is much better visible on it where to stick the hook. We will have 8 beads in the circumference of the flagellum.

My strands usually have four to eight warp loops. After seven, the plasticity of the tourniquet is partially lost; you can still bend them, but you can no longer tie a knot. I don’t know how to deal with this yet :(

We collect 25-30 centimeters of beads, alternating colors:

We knit the starting loop:

We knit an air loop - we will attach a ring to it:

We knit the next 8 chain stitches with a bead. We separate 8 beads from the set, move the first one close to the chain loop we just knitted, and then hook the thread and pull it through:

Repeat with all separated beads:

We close the ring with a half-column, we get the first row:

For the second row, separate 8 more beads. We again move the first bead close to the loop on the hook, and stick the hook into the first air loop knitted with the bead, and knit a half-stitch.

VERY IMPORTANT!

The hook needs to be stuck into the loop BEFORE and ABOVE the bead, and the thread should be held BEFORE and ABOVE the work, as if in the middle of the cord. If everything is done correctly, the newly knitted bead turns over and, as it were, presses, sits on top of the bead of the previous row

The color of the bead being moved and the bead of the previous row should be the same. If the colors are mixed, it means something was knitted incorrectly and the work needs to be unraveled until it “matches”

In practice, I knit each stitch in four steps:

1. I push a new bead towards myself with the nail of my index finger.

2. I stick the hook into the loop with the bead.

3. Using the same fingernail, I turn over, push away, and move away the bead on the “stuck” loop.

4. Grab the thread and knit a loop OVER the bead you just turned over.

We knit all 8, bead by bead, in a circle - pushed, stuck, turned over, pushed away, knitted.

Second row from the side:

Move and knit 8 more beads. Third row, top view:

Third row - from the side:

And this is what the first row looks like now:

Pay attention to the location of the beads: in the knitted first two rows the direction of the holes is parallel to the rope, in the unknitted third row it is perpendicular.

From the working end, the strand looks like a flower, with a bead at the tip of each petal. The number of petals should remain the same; if they suddenly become 7 or 9, open them until there are 8 again. However, if you are training on beads of two colors, the error will be noticeable even without counting :)

After the third or fourth row, I usually stop counting beads and rows and just knit everything in the round. The rope is knitted, untwisted, and built all the time from the inside, the knitted chain is a spiral in the middle, the beads around hide the knitting. Look in the middle of your sample - there is a twisted braid there:

The last row is knitted without beads - that is, instead of “pushed up, stuck in, turned over, knitted” we only do “stuck in, turned over, knitted”, i.e. we stick it in the same way as before - IN FRONT and ABOVE the bead of the last row:

All beads are knitted:

We cut the thread, fasten the last loop and carefully sew the rest of the thread inside:

The last row is completed:

And once again - the first row. All beads are located the same way, facing the same direction:

"BLIND" or "LAZY" VARIATIONS

I call them blind and lazy because of the typesetting - the beads for such strands can be typed without looking at them. This process is very emotional while watching TV :)

Pour the beads into a small container (my favorite is a plastic box with a tight lid, very convenient for travel) and move the needle around in this pile - something will cling. Slide the “catch” down onto the thread and continue “fishing” until the desired length is reached.

Identical beads

There’s simply nothing to write about, pour and drink, type and knit :)

Transparent beads on a multi-colored thread

It's all in the name :) - you need transparent beads and sectional dyeing thread.

"Bead soup"

Mix of beads and beads different colors and/or different sizes. You can experiment in one scale, you can play with unexpected combinations. Or simply place the remains of everything that is in the way.

COUNTABLE VARIATIONS

The simplest countable variations - spirals

Very simple and very interesting pattern, it can be knitted from multi-colored beads of the same size, or different ones. With large beads, the rope will twist very tightly :) By the way, we already knitted the simplest example for a spiral rope during training.

And also the simplest ones - specks

For a rope with six beads, dial the required length in the following sequence: 4 beads of the main color, 1 larger bead of the additional color. This is just one of the set options, experiment!

Schemes with patterns

Ready-made diagrams for harnesses can be printed from here: http://www.beaddust.com/haekeln/hae keln.html

The number eight in the upper right corner is an indication of how many beads are on the rope. Number 32 is the number of beads in the repeat. We collect beads: 9 blue, 2 yellow, 2 blue, 2 yellow, 2 blue, 3 yellow, etc.

Own schemes

On the same site you can download a program for creating your own diagrams.

Let's try to make a diagram for a necklace with long beads, like this:

It looks like it is knitted with 9 beads. We set this condition to the program (Pattern->Width->9) and arrange the beads. Using the arrows on the control panel, we scroll through the harness and look at it from different sides:

Knitting sample:

If you want to use this pattern, don't pay attention to the number "4" at the end of the set, just ignore it. The number of beads between the long black “feathers” is always 18.

How to check your typing is correct complex patterns.

After you type the first rapport, check it carefully with the diagram. Tear off a piece of napkin and string it onto a thread at the end of the repeat. Type the next rapport, place it next to the first, verified one. Compare the set - the error can often be seen without tedious counting. Continue separating the repeats with pieces of paper and checking the set after each repeat.

HOW MANY BEADS SHOULD I SET?

Regardless of which calculation method you prefer, a little trick will make your work a little easier - unwind a thread of the required length from the ball + “thread it through the needle” a little, and use a second needle or hook to secure the thread at the ball so that it does not unwind further. Then you won’t need to measure anything during the typing process; you will immediately see how much is left to recruit.

It’s as simple as that :) - multiply the desired length of the rope, for example 40 cm, by the planned number of beads in a circle, for example 6. It turns out that you have to dial 240 cm (40 x 6).

By the way, if you don’t have a centimeter at hand - for me, at least, it moves around the premises completely unpredictably and illogically - measure out a thread equal in length to the necklace you already have. And so - six times. Or how many beads you have in a circle :) Now fasten the thread to the ball - and you can collect!

Calculation method

This method is useful when knitting complex patterns, especially if you are going to use beads of different sizes or some special beads and are not sure how many of them you need. And just adding an extra ten centimeters to a complex pattern is extreme pleasure.

Therefore, to begin with, let’s collect a couple of repeats (the diagram is the same flowers, only with a colored center), and measure the set. I got 13 cm:

Now we knit the cast on and measure again. It turned out to be 2 cm of the finished tourniquet, i.e. 1 rapport = 1cm ( Well, it's not my fault, it happened by accident! :)) .

The rest is simple math. For a 20 cm long braid (I want a bracelet with sunflowers!) you need:
- dial 20 rapports (20 cm: 1 cm);
- have 40 center beads in stock (20 repeats x 2 beads). By the way, also a hint: as soon as all 40 are used, the set is complete!;
- unwind a little more than 130 cm of thread (20 repeats x 6.5 cm)

Of course, it's good to know these ways. And it’s even better to know that worrying about uncertainty - “gaining 2 m 90 cm or 2 m 99 cm” - is a completely useless exercise. Because the missing beads can be found later :)

CORRECTION OF DIALING ERRORS, ADDITIONAL DIALING

The easiest way to get rid of randomly collected extra beads is to split them with pliers. To protect the thread from sharp fragments, first insert a needle into the hole of the bead.

If you got persistent beads and you can’t take them with pliers (or there weren’t enough beads), cut the thread, remove the excess (or get the required length), tie the ends of the thread. Continue knitting - the cut ends will hide inside.

The same tactics should be used for very long lariat strands, especially if you are knitting on a thick cotton thread, the beads do not slide along it easily and moving meters of beads is not much fun. Choose a length that is convenient for you to work with (mine is about 2 m), knit a set, cut... Well, then everything is clear :)

END OF WORK

Sew on the fastener

We sew end to end

In bracelets and long necklaces, you can do just fine without a clasp :) If you decide to finish the decoration by simply sewing it into a ring, leave the last row of the “flower” unknitted, fasten the thread, and thread it through a needle.

1. Sew outward through the last knitted bead, i.e. the last bead of the penultimate row.

2. Grab the thread coming out of the first knitted bead on the rope.

3. Return again to the end of the strand and grab the thread coming out of the first unknitted bead.

4. Sew all the beads in the same step.

5. Fasten, sew and trim the remaining thread:

and in addition: a very visual animated master class: http://www.beadpatterncentral.com/tubew elcome.html

Very interesting way a set of complex circuits from kozlionok :
I compose the first report under my husband’s dictation, and he, in turn, records this process on my voice recorder. mobile phone. The speed is adjusted by my hums when I'm ready for the next step. Then I sit with my headphones on with the box on my lap and don’t waste time darting my eyes between the diagram and the box and the needle. And at the same time, there is no psychological difference between 30 beads in a repeat and 270. And for a whole year, not a single mistake in the set.

WORKS OF MASTERS