Over 16 years of working as a sewing machine repairman, I have found many answers to the question
"Why doesn't the sewing machine sew?"
Technical problems related to hardware will not be discussed in this article. But issues of improper operation will be considered in great detail.
In fact, there are only three main mistakes:
- Incorrect needle installation and thread selection;
- Incorrect threading;
- The bobbin case is not installed correctly.
I will dwell on each point in more detail.
Mistake #1 Incorrect needle installation and thread selection;All household sewing machines use needles of the same type, domestic ones from the Artinsky plant according to GOST 22249 or imported type 705.
They differ from all other machine needles in that each needle has a flat side - a flat - filed on the thickened part (flask). The flat is made specifically so that an inexperienced person can accurately install the needle in the needle holder. It is only important to know in which direction this flat should be turned. Of course, the best way is to look in the manual for the car. Don’t be lazy, find this smart book and make sure that you are doing everything correctly. By the way, you will also find recommendations on the selection of needles and threads there.
If the instructions are lost, or were not there at all, then general rules are:
- on machines that perform “zigzag”, the needle is always installed with the flat back from the seamstress, all the way up, and clamped with a screw.
- on machines that do NOT perform “zigzag” (straight stitch), the needle is installed flat to the left or to the right, always in the direction opposite to the needle thread guide (thread hook next to the fixing screw). Also all the way up, and also clamped with a screw.
Needles of the same type differ from each other in thickness, which is indicated by a number. The thickness of the needle is selected according to the thickness of the fabric being sewn. On household machines for medium fabrics (not silk and drape), needles No. 90, No. 100, No. 110 are used. Accordingly, the thinner the fabric, the smaller the needle number.
In a car, a needle is the most important part. Therefore, there is no need to skimp on needles: change them more often, throw away blunt and crooked ones immediately, and do not store them “for a rainy day.” And buy them only in the store, fortunately there are no problems with this now.
And the threads are selected according to the thickness of the needle.
The correspondence is:
- for needles No. 90, the thread should be 50 HB or 35LL,
- for needles No. 100 and No. 110, the thread should be 40 HB or 45 LL.
shown in Directory
The threads in the machine above and below (on the spool and on the bobbin) must be from the same spool (the only thing that is written differently in the machine instructions). This helps to achieve high-quality stitching and eliminates the problem of matching threads by color.
Mistake #2 Incorrect threading;Here, too, it is best to look at the instructions for the machine.
And if it is not there, then the general rules are as follows:
The reel is placed on the reel seat.
- upper thread guide
- between the plates of the upper thread tension regulator
- upper thread tension adjuster bracket
- compensation spring
- thread take-up
- lower thread guide
- needle thread guide
- into the eye of the needle from the side of the needle thread guide (or the long groove of the needle)
- under the paw
The lower thread is threaded in such a way that the thread coming out from under the pressure plate of the bobbin case unwinds the bobbin in the opposite direction.
By the way, only a master should turn the screw on the pressure plate of the bobbin case. It’s better not to do this on your own.
Mistake #3 The bobbin case is not installed correctly.It often happens that the seamstress is in a hurry and does not insert the bobbin case into the hook until it is completely fixed, or, as they also say, “not until it clicks.” As a result, the bobbin case moves and falls out of the socket, which causes a lot of problems (breakage or tangling of threads, etc.). The recipe is simple: lack of haste and attentiveness . And everything will work out for you.
| A separate topic is machine lubrication.
What they don’t lubricate the long-suffering Soviet machines: and vegetable oil, and brake fluid, and kerosene, and soldering fluid, and even fluid for pistons in aircraft hydraulic systems. As a result, the car requires “hospitalization” to a workshop, complete disassembly using such “special means” as a sledgehammer and solvent." And then a major overhaul costing 1,500 rubles and more. To prevent this from happening to your car, do not skimp on oil. Oil should only be used grade I20A. A bottle of such oil with a capacity of 100 ml is sold in any hardware store, and its price is about 20 rubles. Shelf life 3-5 years. The machine needs to be lubricated after about 40 hours of operation wherever “iron rubs against iron.” Remember: For high-quality work, a household machine should be inspected by a specialist approximately once every 3-4 years. Clean, lubricate, adjust. I never discourage the owners themselves from doing this, especially if they have a strong desire. But if they fail to cope with the task (and this happens quite often), the cost of repairs increases in proportion to the number of disassembled (more precisely, broken) units. Sometimes even 2-3 times. So think carefully before you reach into your car with a screwdriver. |
CARE AND MINOR REPAIRS FOR YOUR SEWING MACHINE
Very often, when sewing, there are problems with the sewing machine and many novice seamstresses do not know how to fix the problem. I will write about the most common causes of failure. For example, I take my working sewing machine (industrial, single-line). All machines are generally the same, whether they are household or industrial in design, and you will find identically similar parts on all of them. I don’t take into account modern cars with program controlled and breakdowns associated with the electrical part of the machine. And if you are still in doubt about choosing a sewing machine, then perhaps my article will help you with this.
? If the needle is in the machine, when working, it knocks on the fabric, like a machine gun fire.
answer– it’s just the tip of the needle that has gone astray or bent. In this case, you need to replace the needle.
For those who want to watch, my video on setting thread tension on my Typical industrial sewing machine.
? The bottom stitching is ugly, there are loops and loops (see photo 1 - sample).
answer– Upper thread tension is too weak. You need to check the top thread. This thread should run with slight tension. It can be changed using the upper thread tension regulator, indicated by an arrow (see photo 1). In this case, you need to increase the tension until the loops “go away”. 
?
The top stitching is ugly, there are loops and loops (see photo No. 3 - sample). 
answer– the tension of the lower thread is too weak. The lower thread should come out of the bobbin case with a slight tension, which can be adjusted with small bolts (arrow photo 3, below). On household sewing machines there is usually one such bolt on the bobbin case, but I have two.
? During operation, the lower thread often breaks, especially at high sewing speeds.
answer– you need to make a fabric gasket in the bobbin case. To do this, you need to take a thin fabric and cut out a circle with a hole of the required size from it so that you can put it in the bobbin case (see photo 2). For better bobbin glide, you need to drop 1-2 drops of machine oil onto the fabric. If the thread begins to pull out of the bobbin case too tightly, then the spacer should be made of thinner fabric. 
? When working, the top thread often breaks.
answer– a very common cause in this case is a knocked down or blunt needle. It needs to be replaced. Check the top thread, it may come out too tightly from the bowls. Move the plates apart and see if there are threads stuck there or just loosen the tension on the top thread. You can rub it on an industrial machine sandpaper the moving edge (nose of the shuttle), marked in the photo, perhaps there are jagged marks from the needle, which the thread clings to and then breaks (see photo 4). If the thread breaks often and on all types of fabrics and none of the above helps, then you need to show the machine to the master; perhaps you need to reconfigure the shuttle device. Without certain knowledge, I do not recommend doing this. 
? Sometimes the thread winder does not wind onto the bobbin. The bobbin spins, but the thread does not wind.
answer– if this happens on only one bobbin, then you can add threads so that the bobbin is more tightly located on the axis. If this happens to all bobbins, then you can use a screwdriver to slightly expand the gap on the axle (see photo 5). Then all the bobbins will fit more tightly. I would like to note that the thread from the spool should also go to the winder with a slight tension, which is changed with the tension regulator. 
? There are skipped stitches in the machine stitching.
answer– if this happens only on one specific type of fabric, then it is most likely that the machine does not “take” this fabric well. This often happens on knitted fabrics. To avoid this, you need to use a special needle for knitted fabrics, which has a rounded tip. This needle does not pierce the fabric, but simply pushes its threads apart. And also my advice, proven by experience. If the machine still makes gaps, then you can cut thin strips of paper, preferably tracing paper, and when sewing, put it under the machine stitching - there will be no more gaps. Then remove the paper.
Stitch skips can also occur if the thickness of the machine needle and thread is incorrectly selected.
The machine may also make mistakes due to a knocked down, dull needle. The needle needs to be replaced. If the machine uses a needle with a round base, then you can slightly turn the needle to a different position (a little to the left or to the right) until it starts to sew well. In household machines, the edge at the base of the needle is cut off.
If none of the above helps and if there are gaps on all types of fabrics, then you need to show the machine to the master. The shuttle may need to be reconfigured.
? The machine does not advance the fabric well.
answer– you may need to clean the teeth; to do this you need to unscrew the plate. Another reason is that you may need to add presser foot pressure, and vice versa for large thicknesses.
SEWING MACHINE MAINTENANCE
IN sewing machines With automatic oil lubrication, you need to monitor the oil level and remember to add it on time. When using the machine every day, you need to lubricate all the necessary places, according to the instructions.
More often you need to unscrew the plate and clean the teeth; lint often gets stuck there.
REASON #1: The machine needle is installed on the wrong side. If you are a beginner seamstress and your troubles with your sewing machine started with changing the needle, let's first take a closer look at how this needle works and why. The machine needle is an absolutely brilliant invention of W. Hunt, and it consists in the fact that there are two grooves along the needle: a long one on one side, and a short one on the other. When this ingenious needle pierces the fabric, the top thread coming from the spool is hidden in a long groove. Thanks to this, the needle and thread passes through the fabric very easily. But the section of the thread that has a short groove on the other side experiences a lot of friction. While the needle goes down, it drags the thread along with it. But during the reverse movement, a section of thread, successfully hidden in a long groove, comes out freely. But the thread in the short groove is unlucky: it has nowhere to hide, and it gets stuck, forming a loop under the fabric, which the shuttle grabs. This is how simple (and at the same time very cunning?) a machine stitch is formed. If you didn’t pay attention or simply couldn’t remember which side to insert the needle into the sewing machine (and looking at the instructions every time, even if you haven’t lost it yet, is so boring!), then now you won’t get confused: the needle needs to be inserted with a long groove in the direction from which the thread is threaded. Failure to follow this rule is a fairly common reason why a sewing machine does not sew: the handwheel spins, the fabric under the presser foot moves, the needle makes frequent strikes, and instead of stitching there is only a uniform row of holes... REASON #2: The new needle is too thin for the thread threaded into the sewing machine. The thread does not fit in the long groove, it protrudes outward, and the holes in the fabric are too large. The thread on the side of the short valley no longer gets stuck in the fabric or does not get stuck every time. You end up with unsightly gaps, or even no stitches at all. Change the needle to a thicker one, or the thread to a thinner one - depending on what is easier for you. REASON #3: The sewing machine won't sew because the top thread breaks every few stitches. See if it gets caught on the threading path: by the spring of the tension regulator, by the thread take-up, by the tip of the needle. Often a coil of thread, having slipped off the spool, gets wrapped around the rod on which it is installed, and this is not immediately noticeable. Modern cardboard reels behave especially poorly. It is advisable to place a smooth plastic circle under them. If it is not included with your sewing machine, cut it out from the bottom of a plastic bottle and make a hole in the middle with a nail heated over a fire.
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Very often, when sewing, there are problems with the sewing machine and many novice seamstresses do not know how to fix the problem. Let's look at the most common causes of malfunction. For example, let's take a working sewing machine (industrial, single-line). All machines are generally the same, whether they are household or industrial in design, and you will find identically similar parts on all of them. We do not take into account modern machines with software control and breakdowns associated with the electrical part of the machine.
? If the needle is in the machine, when working, it knocks on the fabric, like a machine gun fire.
the answer is that the tip of the needle is simply lost or bent. In this case, you need to replace the needle.
? The bottom line is ugly, there are loops and loops.
The answer is that the upper thread tension is too loose. You need to check the top thread. This thread should run with slight tension. It can be changed using the upper thread tension regulator, indicated by an arrow (see photo 1). In this case, you need to increase the tension until the loops go away.
?The top stitching is ugly, there are loops and loops.
The answer is that the bobbin thread tension is too loose. The lower thread should come out of the bobbin case with a slight tension, which can be adjusted with small bolts (arrow photo 3). On household sewing machines there is usually one such bolt on the bobbin case, but I have two.
? During operation, the lower thread often breaks, especially at high sewing speeds.
The answer is that you need to make a fabric gasket in the bobbin case. To do this, you need to take a thin fabric and cut out a circle with a hole of the required size from it so that you can put it in the bobbin case (see photo 2). For better bobbin glide, you need to drop 1-2 drops of machine oil onto the fabric. If the thread begins to pull out of the bobbin case too tightly, then the spacer should be made of thinner fabric.
? When working, the top thread often breaks.
answer - a very common cause in this case is a knocked down or blunt needle. It needs to be replaced. Check the top thread, it may come out too tightly from the bowls. Move the plates apart and look to see if there are threads stuck there or just loosen the tension on the top thread. Using an industrial machine, you can rub the moving edge (nose of the shuttle), marked in the photo, with sandpaper; perhaps there are jagged marks from the needle, which the thread clings to and then breaks (see photo 4). If the thread breaks often and on all types of fabrics and none of the above helps, then you need to show the machine to the master; perhaps you need to reconfigure the shuttle device. Without certain knowledge, I do not recommend doing this.
? Sometimes the thread winder does not wind onto the bobbin. The bobbin spins, but the thread does not wind.
answer - if this happens on only one bobbin, then you can put some threads so that the bobbin is more tightly located on the axis. If this happens to all bobbins, then you can use a screwdriver to slightly expand the gap on the axle (see photo 5). Then all the bobbins will fit more tightly. I would like to note that the thread from the spool should also go to the winder with a slight tension, which is changed with the tension regulator.
? There are skipped stitches in the machine stitching.
answer - if this happens only on one specific type of fabric, then it is most likely that the machine does not “take” this fabric well. This often happens on knitted fabrics. To avoid this, you need to use a special needle for knitted fabrics, which has a rounded tip. This needle does not pierce the fabric, but simply pushes its threads apart. And also my advice, proven by experience. If the machine still makes gaps, then you can cut thin strips of paper, preferably tracing paper, and when sewing, put it under the machine stitching - there will be no more gaps. Then remove the paper.
Stitch skips can also occur if the thickness of the machine needle and thread is incorrectly selected.
The machine may also make mistakes due to a knocked down, dull needle. The needle needs to be replaced. If the machine uses a needle with a round base, then you can slightly turn the needle to a different position (a little to the left or to the right) until it starts to sew well. In household machines, the edge at the base of the needle is cut off.
If none of the above helps and if there are gaps on all types of fabrics, then you need to show the machine to the master. The shuttle may need to be reconfigured.
? The machine does not advance the fabric well.
The answer is that you may need to clean the teeth; to do this you need to unscrew the plate. Another reason is that you may need to add presser foot pressure, and vice versa for large thicknesses.
SEWING MACHINE MAINTENANCE
In sewing machines with automatic oil lubrication, you need to monitor the oil level and do not forget to add it on time. When using the machine every day, you need to lubricate all the necessary places, according to the instructions.
More often you need to unscrew the plate and clean the teeth; lint often gets stuck there.
TAKEN FROM THE INTERNET
