Choosing sewing threads is as important a task as buying fabric for a product. High-quality threads are not only the key to a master’s successful work, but also largely determine appearance seams, and, as a result, the quality of tailoring of the entire product. Modern sewing threads are divided into types, and each type of sewing work requires threads of a certain quality and number. Let's try to understand the variety of threads on the market and get acquainted with the most popular ones in the sewing business.
Sewing thread is a long, thin, evenly twisted fiber with special properties, which is widely used in sewing. Sewing threads are a durable material used to fasten parts of products made from fabrics, knitted and non-woven fabrics, fur, leather, etc. Threads are constantly exposed to mechanical stress (bending, rubbing against a needle during the sewing process, being exposed to high temperatures when ironing) and chemical exposure (for example, in ready-made clothes - during washing, dry cleaning). All of the above worsens the properties of the threads, disrupts their smoothness, strength and integrity, and as a result, the threads break at the seams and in places of the heaviest loads.
To minimize the negative effects on the thread and extend its service life, it is necessary to fulfill a simple condition when choosing threads for a product - the quality of the thread must correspond to the quality of the fabric, and the operating conditions of the product must be taken into account.
It is very important to learn how to choose the right needle and thread for the type of fabric from which the product is sewn. Before starting work, select the threads of the required quality and thickness, then select a needle for the threads.
Why is it important to choose the right needle and thread?
If you look closely at the machine needle, you can see that there is a long groove on the front side of the needle (see Fig. 1). It is in this groove that the thread is placed when sewing. Look at Fig. 1 A-B-C, it shows a cross-section of a needle in a top view (a cross-sectional view of the needle from above) and a thread.
With the correct relationship between the needle and the thread, the thread should fit into the groove; this is the only way to obtain a high-quality stitch (see Fig. 1A).
If the needle is too thick, the thread will be too loose in the groove and may cause skipped stitches and damage to the thread (Figure 1B).
A needle that is too thin will not allow the thread to fit into the groove; the thread will rub against the edges of the groove, which can lead to thread breakage (Fig. 1C).
Rice. 1 A-B-C. Position of the thread in the groove of the needle
IMPORTANT! For high-quality machine stitching, the fabric and threads must match the machine needle number.
For lightweight materials, use thin threads and a 70-75 needle.
For medium-weight materials, use sewing thread and needle No. 80-90.
For dense fabrics, use thicker threads and needle No. 100, 110,120.
The properties and structure of sewing threads are influenced by the following factors:
- Fiber composition. Based on their composition, threads are divided into natural (cotton, linen and silk), synthetic (polyamide, polyester and viscose), and combined.
- Number of additions. Threads can be single-twisted (in 2 or 3 folds), double-twisted (in 4, 6, 9 and 12 folds).
- Coefficient and direction of twist. The twist factor is the number of turns per 1 meter of thread length. The strength of the sewing thread depends on the direction of twist - right (Z) or left (S). Right-hand twist (Z) threads are less likely to break in the sewing machine.
- Thread thickness. Thread thickness varies and is indicated by number or linear density (tex).
- Final finishing. Threads come in glossy and matte. It is believed that glossy threads are stronger than matte ones, but much depends on the quality of the raw materials and the manufacturer.
Rice. 2. Twisting threads in 3 and 2 folds under magnification
The quality of the thread is very important, High-quality threads are the key to the quality of your product! therefore, it is better to use threads and needles from trusted manufacturers.
General purpose threads
Standard sewing threads are made from tightly twisted fibers. Made from polyester (synthetic), from mercerized cotton or with a synthetic core, covered with cotton.
Rice. 3. Sewing thread Madeira Aerofil (100% polyester)
The last option combines best properties the first two. General purpose threads are great for sewing standard items such as clothing, curtains or children's toys.
Mercerization is a process of treating cotton fabrics and threads that gives them a shiny appearance.
Cotton threads
100% mercerized cotton threads are great for sewing. Select threads according to their composition - use cotton with cotton, polyester with synthetic fabrics. Finished products can be washed in hot water without fear of deterioration in the quality of the threads. Both threads and fabrics will retain their appearance and strength for a long time. Cotton threads do not stretch, unlike synthetic ones, so they can be used for decorative embroidery, as well as for sewing seams.
Rice. 4. Gutterman cotton threads
Silk threads
Silk threads have a noble shine and give the seams a neat, classic look. Such threads are used when working with silk and woolen fabrics because their natural fibers are similar in characteristics, and silk threads are also well suited for hand sewing without knots.
Rice. 5. Gutterman silk threads
Depending on the thickness, such threads are suitable for both sewing on machines and overlockers, and are also ideal for creating decorative stitches. In addition, threads can be used for sewing buttonholes and sewing on buttons. Silk threads are expensive, so for many projects synthetic threads can be a cheaper alternative.
Threads for hand embroidery
Skeins of twisted embroidery threads are wound into bundles. They are mainly made from cotton, silk or viscose. The so-called floss threads are twisted threads for hand embroidery. These threads are ideal for embroidery and clothing decoration.
Rice. 6. Cotton floss threads for hand embroidery
Machine embroidery threads are made from viscose or polyester and have a characteristic shine. These threads look very impressive and can be used to fill in colored areas/spots in machine embroidery. Used in bobbins/reels and together with a needle for machine embroidery. A wide range of shades are available to add depth to the designs.
Rice. 7. Aurora threads for embroidery
The Madeira company has in its assortment the ideal threads for machine embroidery - RAYON. They can be used without any restrictions for embroidery on the finest silk, or on coarse denim or skin. These threads are suitable for all sewing and embroidery machines for home use, and the unique color variety will please even the most demanding craftsmen.
Rice. 8. Machine embroidery threads RAYON (100% polyester)
The world's first truly matte and color-fast threads are Frosted matt (composition: 96% polyester and 4% ceramic). These threads open up completely new aspects for all embroidery lovers. Intense natural matte tones are not similar to the tones of previously known embroidery threads. The beauty of the shades amazes the eye. With these threads you can create completely unique embroideries.
Rice. 9. Frosted matt embroidery thread, Madeira
Metallic threads for embroidery
These are completely thin metal threads or with a metal core thread to give strength. They will add shine and sparkle to your things. Use them with a metal needle, store them in spools to avoid cuts.
Rice. 10. Metallic embroidery threads
If you like to experiment, you will certainly appreciate threads with a metallic effect for voluminous embroidery. With the help of these threads you can create unique motifs. Due to its strength, threads can also be used for patchwork technique by car.
Rice. 11. Glamor threads No. 12 (60% polyester, 30% metallized polyester, 10% polyamide)
Metallic threads of high sparkle
Another diamond in the world of metal threads is GoldenSilver. This is a thread of very high sparkle, with excellent optical effect. This thread is ideal for gold and silver embroidery, any unique and expensive embroidery. Suitable for hand and machine embroidery.
Rice. 12. Metallic threads GoldenSilver, Madeira
Threads for basting
Threads wound with less force than standard ones. This makes them suitable for temporary basting and removal without damaging the fabric when they are no longer needed.
Threads for finishing stitches
Finish stitch thread is thicker than all standard sewing threads, this gives the thread strength and makes it stand out on the fabric, so it is good for decorative stitches, sewing on buttons, and sewing upholstery fabrics. Used with a large eye needle. The composition can be natural (cotton, silk), synthetic or combined.
Rice. 13. Threads for finishing stitches
Overlock stitches require much more thread than sewing, so thread is sold in large spools or cones of 1000-5000 meters. The palette options are limited, but this is enough for overlock stitches. The composition of threads for overlocking varies, but polyester synthetic threads are most often used.
Rice. 14. Sewing threads for overlock
Colorless threads (monofilament)
Monofilament is a durable, transparent thread with universal application. This thread is especially strong and can be used as a quilting material. Most often, this thread is used when working with thin or medium-thin fabrics; it can be used as a lower (shuttle) thread if the thread should not be visible, as well as for hand embroidery with beads, sequins, etc.
Use colorless thread on all types of household sewing and embroidery machines. We recommend for work
Rice. 15. Colorless threads
Specialized threads exist for different purposes. A few have already been mentioned above, but still check your local stores or fabric shows, there's something new coming out all the time. Here are some of them.
Rice. 16. Special purpose threads
Glow in the dark thread
As the name suggests, the thread glows in the dark and is very interesting for innovative embroidery techniques or for tracing designs on fabrics. This effect will definitely not go unnoticed!
Tuxedo thread
Such threads can be used to create non-standard shapes in clothing and decoration. The temperature of the iron causes the thread to shrink, which gives the fabric a wrinkled effect.
Water soluble thread
Water-soluble thread is used like a regular thread, but dissolves without a trace in water or upon contact with steam. You can use them for temporary joining of parts, for sewing on patch pockets, pleating, as well as for quilting and appliqué.
Basic requirements for sewing threads: strength, elasticity, uniform twist, uniform thread thickness, abrasion resistance, absence of tears and knots in the bobbin, color fastness; for synthetic threads – heat resistance when used in high-speed machines.
SUMMARY:
- Select threads for each item good quality and save vintage reels. Old threads will deteriorate much earlier than modern fabrics, so the product may need to be repaired, and threads will come in handy.
- Choose appropriate needles (hand and machine) for threads and fabric. For example, machine needles are made for metal threads and have an eye that will not cut the thread, while needles for “wool embroidery” have long eye and are designed to work with embroidery threads.
- Select threads according to their composition - use cotton with cotton, polyester with synthetic fabrics, and silk with silk and wool.
Even more useful tips on sewing you will find on the website of the Anastasia Korfiati Sewing School. Subscribe to free news and sew fashionable clothes together with us!
These harnesses simply have a lot of advantages - they are delightfully flexible and surprisingly durable, a set necessary materials minimal, decoration options are innumerable. And finally, they are very easy to make :)
But it is not without its drawbacks: (The process often causes addiction, something akin to alcohol - you want to knit more and more ropes, longer and longer, there is a need to try all possible and impossible colors, patterns, shapes. At some point you suddenly you catch yourself thinking, “I haven’t had a drink in the morning, I haven’t knitted today - the day is gone” and you notice that your hands are involuntarily searching for and squeezing an imaginary hook. And if a picture with someone’s tourniquet doesn’t catch your eye - that’s it, it’s a lost cause. the road to the treasured bead and thread storage :)
If such a prospect does not scare you and you are ready to take a risk, welcome to the cat. However, if you are ALREADY hooked on them, it’s all the same - welcome! You have nothing to lose anyway :)
SHORT INTRODUCTION
For those who have never encountered THEM before
Knitted plaits are made in two stages:
1) All the beads are strung on a thread, randomly or in a certain order.
2) The tourniquet is knitted in half-columns in a spiral. There are at least three loops at the base of the bundle. Each half-stitch knits a loop with a bead from the previous row and at the same time adds a new loop with a new bead.
Everything written below is the details of these two stages.
MATERIALS AND TOOLS
Basic set
The required set of materials is minimal. These are beads, threads, hook, needle. One of the important conditions for success is their compliance with each other. The following correspondences are my choice; of course, it is not necessary to follow it, because each needlewoman not only has different preferences, but also the technique and knitting density are different.
My favorite bead for this technique is 8/0. Mercerized cotton (Iris, Vita Cotton Pelican, DMC or Ancor Pearl Cotton #8) and classic cotton for crochet (Aunt Lidia's #10, DMC Crochet Cotton #10, etc.) are perfect for it. It is convenient to cast on such beads a fine needle for tapestries or embroidery - they have a long eye. Suitable hooks are approximately 1.65 mm to 1.75 mm.
The same threads/needles are suitable for large 6/0 beads, but I prefer it not as an independent material, but as an addition to 8/0, for relief patterns, spirals, etc.
For smaller beads - 11/0 and 15/0 - a synthetic thread for beading or sewing is well suited; you will need a thin, beaded needle, a hook from approximately 1.3 mm to 1.6 mm. (And also thin fingers, good eyes and strong nerves. Since I don’t have any of the above, one decoration made of small beads was enough for me for now :))
If you want to use Iris or Pearl Cotton #8 with 11/0 beads (which are the most common and easily available beads), you will most likely find that a tapestry needle, and even threaded, will not push through the bead, but The thread does not fit into the beading needle. I got out of the situation by first stringing everything on a thin thread, then tying it with Pearl Cotton and carefully moving the whole set. If you decide to use this method, do not tie the threads together, but tie a thin thread on a thick one so that the knot is made of only a thin thread, and the thick one is simply bent and folded in half.
Another simple way to string small beads onto a thick thread is from rikki_t_tavi : Insert a piece of bead thread into a thin needle, with two ends at once, throw the end of the knitting thread into the loop formed - and calmly pick up even small beads and thin glass beads onto thread No. 5.
One more thing interesting solution for thick thread from olive_enola : http://businka-lisa.livejournal.com/226 59.html?thread=2127235#t2127235
How to determine which beads you have if the label is silent or missing
As easy as pie! Place 1 cm of beads on the needle and count how many you have collected. Now compare with the table:
Additional materials and tools
An additional, optional set - various beads, metal fittings, clasps, some jewelry tools.
However, you can get by with ordinary household tools - depending on what kind of fastener you will make, you may need: small pliers (wrap their ends with a piece of electrical tape to protect the wire from scratches), wire cutters, knitting needle- make rings from wire.
TRAINING ON CATS
For training, we will need 8/0 beads in two colors and a corresponding thread thickness of any light color- it shows much better where to stick the hook. We will have 8 beads in the circumference of the flagellum.
My strands usually have four to eight warp loops. After seven, the plasticity of the tourniquet is partially lost; you can still bend them, but you can no longer tie a knot. I don’t know how to deal with this yet :(
We collect 25-30 centimeters of beads, alternating colors:
We knit the starting loop:
We knit an air loop - we will attach a ring to it:
We knit the next 8 chain stitches with a bead. We separate 8 beads from the set, move the first one close to the air loop we just knitted, and then hook the thread and pull it through:
Repeat with all separated beads:
We close the ring with a half-column, we get the first row:
For the second row, separate 8 more beads. We again move the first bead close to the loop on the hook, and stick the hook into the first air loop knitted with the bead, and knit a half-stitch.
VERY IMPORTANT!
The hook needs to be stuck into the loop BEFORE and ABOVE the bead, and the thread should be held BEFORE and ABOVE the work, as if in the middle of the cord. If everything is done correctly, the newly knitted bead turns over and, as if pressed, sits on top of the bead of the previous row
The color of the bead being moved and the bead of the previous row should be the same. If the colors are mixed, it means something was knitted incorrectly and the work needs to be unraveled until it “matches”
In practice, I knit each stitch in four steps:
1. I push a new bead towards myself with the nail of my index finger.
2. I stick the hook into the loop with the bead.
3. Using the same fingernail, I turn over, push away, and move away the bead on the “stuck” loop.
4. Grab the thread and knit a loop OVER the bead you just turned over.
We knit all 8, bead by bead, in a circle - pushed, stuck, turned over, pushed away, knitted.
Second row on the side:
Move and knit 8 more beads. Third row, top view:
Third row - from the side:
And this is what the first row looks like now:
Pay attention to the location of the beads: in the knitted first two rows the direction of the holes is parallel to the rope, in the unknitted third row it is perpendicular.
From the working end, the strand looks like a flower, with a bead at the tip of each petal. The number of petals should remain the same; if they suddenly become 7 or 9, open them until there are 8 again. However, if you are training on beads of two colors, the error will be noticeable even without counting :)
After the third or fourth row, I usually stop counting beads and rows and just knit everything in the round. The rope is knitted, untwisted, and built all the time from the inside, the knitted chain is a spiral in the middle, the beads around hide the knitting. Look in the middle of your sample - there is a twisted braid there:
The last row is knitted without beads - that is, instead of “pushed up, stuck in, turned over, knitted” we only do “stuck in, turned over, knitted”, i.e. we stick it in the same way as before - IN FRONT and ABOVE the bead of the last row:
All beads are knitted:
We cut the thread, fasten the last loop and carefully sew the rest of the thread inside:
The last row is completed:
And once again - the first row. All beads are located the same way, facing the same direction:
"BLIND" or "LAZY" VARIATIONS
I call them blind and lazy because of the typesetting - the beads for such strands can be typed without looking at them. This process is very emotional while watching TV :)
Pour the beads into a small container (my favorite is a plastic box with a tight lid, very convenient for travel) and move the needle around in this pile - something will cling. Slide the “catch” down onto the thread and continue “fishing” until the desired length is reached.
Identical beads
There’s simply nothing to write about, pour and drink, type and knit :)
Transparent beads on a multi-colored thread
It's all in the name :) - you need transparent beads and sectional dyeing thread.
"Bead soup"
Mixture of beads and beads different colors and/or different sizes. You can experiment in one scale, you can play with unexpected combinations. Or simply place the remains of everything that gets in the way.
COUNTABLE VARIATIONS
The simplest countable variations - spirals
Very simple and very interesting pattern, it can be knitted from multi-colored beads of the same size, or different ones. With large beads, the rope will twist very tightly :) By the way, we already knitted the simplest example for a spiral rope during training.
And also the simplest ones - specks
For a rope with six beads, dial the required length in the following sequence: 4 beads of the main color, 1 larger bead of the additional color. This is just one of the set options, experiment!
Schemes with patterns
Ready-made diagrams for harnesses can be printed from here: http://www.beaddust.com/haekeln/hae keln.html
The number eight in the upper right corner is an indication of how many beads are on the rope. Number 32 is the number of beads in the repeat. We collect beads: 9 blue, 2 yellow, 2 blue, 2 yellow, 2 blue, 3 yellow, etc.
Own schemes
On the same site you can download a program for creating your own diagrams.
Let's try to make a diagram for a necklace with long beads, like this:
It looks like it is knitted with 9 beads. We set this condition to the program (Pattern->Width->9) and arrange the beads. Using the arrows on the control panel, we scroll through the harness and look at it from different sides:
Knitting sample:
If you want to use this pattern, don't pay attention to the number "4" at the end of the set, just ignore it. The number of beads between the long black “feathers” is always 18.
How to check the correctness of a set of complex patterns.
After you type the first rapport, check it carefully with the diagram. Tear off a piece of napkin and string it onto a thread at the end of the repeat. Type the next rapport, place it next to the first, verified one. Compare the set - the error can often be seen without tedious counting. Continue separating the repeats with pieces of paper and checking the set after each repeat.
HOW MANY BEADS SHOULD I SET?
Regardless of which calculation method you prefer, a little trick will make your work a little easier - unwind a thread of the required length from the ball + “thread it through the needle” a little, and use a second needle or hook to secure the thread at the ball so that it does not unwind further. Then you won’t need to measure anything during the typing process; you will immediately see how much is left to recruit.
It’s as simple as that :) - multiply the desired length of the rope, for example 40 cm, by the planned number of beads in a circle, for example 6. It turns out that you have to dial 240 cm (40 x 6).
By the way, if you don’t have a centimeter at hand - for me, at least, it moves around the premises completely unpredictably and illogically - measure out a thread equal in length to the necklace you already have. And so - six times. Or how many beads you have in a circle :) Now fasten the thread to the ball - and you can cast on!
Calculation method
This method is useful when knitting complex patterns, especially if you are going to use beads of different sizes or some special beads and are not sure how many of them you need. And just adding an extra ten centimeters to a complex pattern is extreme pleasure.
Therefore, to begin with, let’s collect a couple of repeats (the diagram is the same flowers, only with a colored center), and measure the set. I got 13 cm:
Now we knit the cast on and measure again. It turned out to be 2 cm of the finished tourniquet, i.e. 1 rapport = 1cm ( Well, it’s not my fault, it happened by accident! :)) .
The rest is simple math. For a 20 cm long braid (I want a bracelet with sunflowers!) you need:
- dial 20 rapports (20 cm: 1 cm);
- have 40 center beads in stock (20 repeats x 2 beads). By the way, also a hint: as soon as all 40 are used, the set is complete!;
- unwind a little more than 130 cm of thread (20 repeats x 6.5 cm)
Of course, it's good to know these ways. And it’s even better to know that worrying about uncertainty - “gaining 2 m 90 cm or 2 m 99 cm” - is a completely useless exercise. Because the missing beads can be found later :)
CORRECTION OF DIALING ERRORS, ADDITIONAL DIALING
The easiest way to get rid of randomly collected extra beads is to split them with pliers. To protect the thread from sharp fragments, first insert a needle into the hole of the bead.
If you got persistent beads and you can’t take them with pliers (or there weren’t enough beads), cut the thread, remove the excess (or get the required length), tie the ends of the thread. Continue knitting - the cut ends will hide inside.
The same tactics should be used for very long lariat strands, especially if you are knitting on a thick cotton thread, the beads do not slide along it easily and moving meters of beads is not much fun. Choose a length that is convenient for you to work with (mine is about 2 m), knit a set, cut... Well, then everything is clear :)
END OF WORK
Sew on the fastener
We sew end to end
In bracelets and long necklaces, you can do just fine without a clasp :) If you decide to finish the decoration by simply sewing it into a ring, leave the last row of the “flower” unknitted, fasten the thread, and thread it through a needle.
1. Sew outward through the last knitted bead, i.e. the last bead of the penultimate row.
2. Grab the thread coming out of the first knitted bead on the rope.
3. Return again to the end of the strand and grab the thread coming out of the first unknitted bead.
4. Sew all the beads in the same step.
5. Fasten, sew and trim the remaining thread:
and in addition: a very visual animated master class: http://www.beadpatterncentral.com/tubew elcome.html
Very interesting way a set of complex circuits from kozlionok
:
I compose the first report under my husband’s dictation, and he, in turn, records this process on my voice recorder. mobile phone. The speed is adjusted by my hums when I'm ready for the next step. Then I sit with my headphones on with the box on my lap and don’t waste time darting my eyes between the diagram and the box and the needle. And at the same time, there is no psychological difference between 30 beads in a repeat and 270. And for a whole year, not a single mistake in the set.
WORKS OF MASTERS
◄ CLEVERLY INVENTED
Transparent glass jars are convenient for storing not only pasta, rice and other cereals. It is also advisable to put threads in them, grouping them by color: visually and beautifully.
POLYESTER THREADS
These durable threads are suitable for all seams and topstitching.
Plus: also good for seams with heavy loads (eg from Gütermann).
SILK THREAD FOR BUTTONLETS
The name speaks for itself. These threads are intended for buttonhole sewing, but are also suitable for decorative seams.
Plus: the seams look brilliant (eg from Gütermann). 
SECTIONAL DYING THREAD
Universal threads for machine embroidery are suitable for all motifs.
Plus: embroideries look surprisingly noble (for example, from Madeira). 
LINEN THREAD
These natural threads are great for hand sewing durable fabrics.
Plus: also suitable for craft projects (eg from Gütermann). 
Twisted threads
The strongest threads on the star are suitable only for hand sewing.
Plus: these threads can also be used to repair backpacks, bags, etc. (for example, from Kaufhaus).
BATTING THREADS
Suitable for hand sewing and basting parts.
Plus: threads break quickly and are easily removed from thin fabrics (Kaufhaus). 
QUILTING THREAD
These threads are designed specifically for machine quilting.
Plus: the threads are especially strong and have a very beautiful shine (for example, from Gütermann). 
METALLIZED THREAD
Particularly good for embroidered motifs and decorative stitches.
Plus: suitable for decorating pillows, table linen, etc. (for example, from Madeira). 
OVERLOCK THREAD
These thin threads are designed for sewing edges and blind stitches.
Plus: they are transparent, elastic and very durable (for example, from Gütermann). 
EMBROIDERY THREAD
Designed for all techniques and stitches.
Plus: the skein is easily divided into individual threads; the threads shimmer like silk (for example, from Anchor). 
ELASTIC THREAD
Especially good for ruffles, frills and puffs.
Plus: when crocheting, they hold the shape of sheaves and posts (for example, from Gütermann).
TRANSPARENT THREAD
Drawstring threads are great for invisible hem sewing.
Plus: also suitable for sewing on sequins and beads (for example, from Madeira).
Photo: Jan Schmiedel, Günther Bringer/Studio 43 (11).
