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A skirt-trousers has all the advantages characteristic of skirts in general - freedom of movement, femininity of the silhouette, ease of wearing. And at the same time, even with a short length, it allows you not to think about accidentally not sparkling with those details of the wardrobe, which should not be sparkled)))

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To build a pattern of a trouser skirt, in addition to the measurements necessary for the main pattern, you will need another additional measure: Sun (27 cm) - seat height

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About taking measurements for the main pattern, see

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Circle the main patterns of the front and of course the rear panels.Mark the extreme points of the lines of the middle, side cut and upper cut and hips with the same letters as in the main drawing.

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The back half. Middle cut. Pattern skirts trousers.

From point T2, down a straight side cut, set aside a segment equal to the height of the seat minus 1 cm. Set point I and draw a horizontal line through it until it intersects with the straight lines in the middle of the rear and front panels.

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Designate the intersection points with the letters I1 and I2.
Continue the line to the left to the segment that is 1/5 of the measurement from the half-circumference of the hips and with an increase of freedom and plus 1 cm. Put the point H3.

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Thus, Я1Я3 \u003d 0.2 x (PoB + PB) + 1 \u003d 0.2 x (53 + 2) + 1 \u003d 12 cm.

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From point T up, set aside a segment that is 1/10 of the measurement from the half-circumference of the hips and minus 2 cm. Designate the resulting point with the letter T3. Divide the segment Y1T3 into 3 parts. Designate the lowest dividing point H4. Find the bisector of the angle H4J1J3 and set aside on it from the point J1 a segment equal to 1/10 of the measurement from the half-circumference of the hips. Set point I5.

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Then connect the points H3, H5 and H4 with a smooth concave line.

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From point H3, restore the perpendicular to the continuation of the bottom and designate the resulting point with the letter H5. To the left of this point, set aside a horizontal line equal to 1.5 cm. Connect the point
1.5 centimeters. with the point H3 using a ruler.

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To the left of the H2 point, on the bottom line, set aside a 2 cm length. Put the H3 point and connect it with the B2 point along the ruler. Front half.

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Middle cut. Pattern skirt-trousers

Continue the line Я3Я2 to the right to the segment, which is 1/5 of the measurement from the half-circumference of the hips with an increase in freedom of fitting and minus 1 cm. Put the point Я6. Divide the Y2T1 segment into 3 parts and designate the lower division point with the letter Y7. According to the bisector of the angle 77Я2Я6 from the point 22, set aside a segment that is 1/10 of the half-girth measure from the hips minus 1 cm. Designate the obtained point as 88. Connect the points H7, H8 and H6 with a smooth concave line. Shorten the midline by
1 cm from point T1.

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Step cut. Pattern skirt-trousers

From point H6, restore the perpendicular to the continuation of the bottom line.
Mark the resulting point H6. To the right of point H6, set aside a horizontal length of about 1.5 cm. Connect the point of 1.5 centimeters. with point Я6 using a ruler.

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Side cut. Pattern skirt-trousers

To the right of point H2 on the bottom line, set aside 2 cm and set point H4. FROM
Using a ruler, connect the points H4 and B2.

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If you have chosen a fabric width of 80-100 cm for sewing a skirt, you will need three product lengths plus 6-8 cm. Fabrics wide
140 cm need two lengths and plus 3-4 centimeters.

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Cross pleated skirt

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When cutting out the patterns of a trouser skirt with oncoming folds, you need to cut the patterns of both the front and back halves along the lines of the middle and push them to the depth of the fold (16-24 cm).

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Reduce the depth of the crease along the bottom line by about 2-3 centimeters on each side. Through the points H4 and H7 to the waist line, draw the fold lines. If the fabric is dense, the upper part of the crease must be cut.

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Flared skirt

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tucks at the waist should be extended to the hips.

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Then you need to make cuts from the lower cut to the center of the tucks. Close the tucks at the waist. As a result, the pattern of the skirt-trousers will expand along the bottom line. Lay out the patterns so that the shared thread runs parallel to the step cut. Give seam allowances. Lay “snares” (copy seam) along the contour lines of the patterns and the upper folds of the folds. Sweep and grind tucks.
Sweep side cuts. The fastener will be processed on the left side, so the seam should not reach the upper cut 16-20 cm. Sweep the step sections of the left and right halves. And fasten the middle front and middle back sections with pins, and then sweep.
Lay and sweep folds, take a belt. After that, try on. Stitch the cuts and stitch the folds from the waist to points Y4 and Y7. The trouser skirt pattern is ready.

Lastly, process the fastener and the upper and lower sections. Iron the skirt pants.

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Pattern of a trouser skirt based on the pattern of a classic skirt

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The pattern of the trouser skirt can be built from the main pattern of the straight two-seam skirt that you can see

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To build a pattern of a skirt-trousers, the following marks will be required:

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From (waist circumference)
About (hips)
Wb (hips)
Du (skirt length)
Sun (seat height)

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The main difference between the pattern of the skirt of the trousers and the main pattern of the skirt is in two almost trapezoidal pieces that are attached to the front and back halves of the pattern of the skirt.

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How are they built?

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On the bend of the front half of the main skirt pattern, set the seat height down, mark point 2. To the left and up from it, put off segments equal to 1/8 of the hips minus 2 cm and mark the end points 3 and 4, which we then connect with a smooth curve passing through the middle of the perpendicular from point 2 to the line connecting them.

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From point 3 down we draw a line to the intersection with the lower edge of the skirt.

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On the back half, the additional part of the pattern is constructed in the same way, only 1/8 O plus 2 cm, that is 4 cm wider than on the front half, are laid off only from Bs.

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That's all! Pattern skirt-trousers built. Sew to health!

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Nowadays, women are achieving success in all areas of human life. They keep up with the times and on a par with men, and sometimes even overtake them in some areas. This noticeably affected the fashion of the fair sex. So, for example, there was a skirt-pants. Practical, comfortable for a rhythmic and eventful life and at the same time, preserving an elegant femininity.

A skirt-trousers (professionals call them culottes) is a special element of the wardrobe, which is an ideal hybrid of both trousers and skirts. A narrow waist and a spacious hem perfectly combine practicality and elegance. Very suitable for women, emphasizing their beauty and expressiveness.

What parameters are needed for the pattern of culottes

The main parameters that must be considered when sewing culottes are the seat height and step width. If you have a non-standard figure or want to add a twist to your suit, then you need to calculate additional parameters:

waist;
lateral dimensions of the hips.

It is also necessary to prepare material for jewelry and calculate the place of their fastening.

IMPORTANT! Correctly determine the step width. If necessary, adjust it during the sewing of the model. If the step width is chosen incorrectly, this will cause significant inconvenience when walking.

The principle of constructing patterns

The correct design of the pattern begins with taking measurements we are interested in, which were mentioned above, and building the foundation for the future skirt. The base pattern is quite easily done on graph paper, which allows you to quickly and accurately create blanks.

ATTENTION! Skirts the sun, half sun and elastic are different in the technique of sewing.

The plan for constructing patterns for further tailoring:

As a basis, the base cut is taken for a straight classic skirt with marks of the size of the waist and hips in girth.
Measure the length of the product along the side line of the seam.
Finish the pattern in the front center.
Mark the height of the seat: from the waist you need to take a quarter of the circumference in the hips and draw a straight line.
Along the line of height of the seat, put a mark on the tenth of the circumference of the hips and from it lower the straight line to the bottom.
We divide the angle in half with a bisector and measure 4 cm on it.
We do the same with the back half of the workpiece, respectively.
On the side seam in front and behind, we slightly expand the workpiece by about a couple of centimeters.
Cut off the excess and reduce the waistline.
Do not forget to cut a strip for the belt in the size of its two widths (this is necessary, since it is made flexible).

Variety of models

Trouser skirts also have their own variations. Among them stand out: classical, sun and a half sun, on an elastic band, a transformer, with a smell. The main elements of taking measurements, building the basics and sewing of all models remain similar, but still there are some nuances that differ in each of them.

When building a pattern, take into account some of the differences between the models:

For a flared model, it is necessary to increase the length of the tuck at the waist to the hip line on both sides.
The elastic model is versatile. It looks like any figure, which, undoubtedly, is its advantage. To do this, leave space at the level of the belt and thread the necessary width of the elastic.
Models for obese women are designed to hide these shortcomings from the eyes and turn them into virtues. To do this, more material is taken, and it flows in a special way: either extended downward, or enlarged in a circle on the legs.

Model pattern for obese women

For full ladies, the ideal model would be skirts, trousers longer than usual, almost to the floor. This is ideal to smooth the waist and give a beautiful overall appearance. The pattern of the model is practically no different from the plan that was discussed above. There are only small details that are taken into account in this case.

The first thing to do is increase the volume at the waist. Longer step and extended sewing model.

Transformer model pattern

This is a special type of culotte, distinguished by its originality and convenience, as well as providing you with a full flight of imagination and thought. With it you can make a lot of amazing images, which is why it is called a transformer.

Features:

Initially, we will need the same classic base pattern.
Both halves (neatly fold the front and rear so that they go towards each other).
Until the middle of the details, lines are drawn on the sides.
Build two parts that will be needed for the smell, after which you need to swap them and add to the side of both halves of the product.
An integral panel is formed. In total, you need to carve two.
Sew both received parts along the seat line.
In the final stage, add an average of 0.5 - 0.6 meters per belt and garters.

Pattern of model on an elastic band

A skirt-pants with an elastic band as a kind of culottes is perhaps the most comfortable and unique. Since the gum can be easily replaced or stretched, this model will ideally look absolutely on any figure. Plus, it will be easy and pleasant to put on and wear. Suitable for walking and just as an element of a home wardrobe. All that is needed is to attach an elastic band to the belt to a standard classic skirt-trousers. In this model, there will be no side seam and tucks from the waist to the hip.

For your convenience, we will give a few tips that will help you make the pattern correctly and save time and effort:

To feel more comfortable in a skirt, you just need to make a cutout on the seat more.
At almost every stage, it is worth checking to see if the step width that you measured at the beginning is stray. It’s better to fix everything in the initial stages than to remake a finished thing.
Leave the fabric in reserve. Better to fit or hem than notice a shortage.
Keep in mind that the fabric will go to the hem, hem in the product and garters. For this, you also need to take material with a margin.

The next step after building the pattern will be sewing the product. And to make it good, you should carefully consider the pattern.

Yu bka pants - very comfortable and elegant clothes. In addition, it helps to decide what to wear - a skirt or trousers? Many women do not like to wear skirts (for various reasons), preferring to dress exclusively in trousers. Pants skirt - as elegant as a skirt and comfortable as pants. And men, on the contrary, do not like it when women constantly wear trousers. In this case, a skirt-pants comes to the rescue - as elegant as a skirt and comfortable as trousers. In addition, our options that we offer you to sew look very impressive and are suitable for all occasions.

An elegant deep emerald-colored trouser skirt is suitable for going to a club or a party with friends, a long black-striped trouser skirt is suitable for the evening, the green with a fold in front is simply created for going to the theater, and the blue one made of cotton fabric for summer holidays. So - choose and sew!

How to cut a skirt pants

From the main fabric to cut:

Front skirt pants - 2 parts

Backless skirt-trousers - 2 parts

Valve 1 - 2 parts

Valve 2 - 2 parts 10cm wide and 12cm long

Belt - waist length + 5cm approach to the fastener. See: How to sew a belt on a skirt.

Cut out all the details of the skirt-trousers with allowances for the seams - 1.5 cm, on the bottom - 4 cm.

Sewing a skirt is much easier than regular trousers, so if you are just starting to sew, but want to have pants in your wardrobe, we recommend that you start by sewing a skirt. And not only because, as mentioned above, it is simple, but also because sitting on a figure skirt will be almost perfect, even despite flaws in sewing.

Take measurements

Waist 76 cm

Hip circumference - 100 cm

Hips - 20-22 cm

Seat height - 26.5 cm

The length of the skirt pants - 106 cm

Trouser skirt: pattern

How to cut a skirt pants

From the main fabric to cut:

Front skirt pants - 2 parts

Backless skirt-trousers - 2 parts

Burlap pocket, one-piece with a barrel - 2 parts

Belt - waist length + 5cm approach to the fastener.

From the lining fabric:

Burlap pocket without barrel - 2 parts

Cut out all the details of the skirt-trousers with allowances for the seams - 1.5 cm, on the bottom - 4 cm.

On the front halves of the trouser skirt

Sweep and grind side and inner seams, iron and process allowances.

Process allowances along the middle (step) seam, sweep and grind the middle seam to the lightning bolt. Sew a zipper with a one-piece clearance.

Sew belt loops, stitch. Pin the loops on the skirt according to the markings under the belt. .

To process, allow, and tack oversizes of the trouser skirt on the bottom by hand with hidden stitches.

Have you decided to learn how to sew and are thinking where to start? Then a skirt-pants is what you need. With a minimum of effort, you get a luxurious little thing that can be worn in any situation and with any blouses, sweaters or T-shirts. For some models, a pattern is not needed at all. How to sew a skirt pants? Read about it in our article.

What is a skirt pants?

Even women who fiercely hate traditional women's clothing are sometimes forced to wear a skirt or dress. They complain that it’s uncomfortable, that they feel uncomfortable because they are used to trousers. A skirt-trousers combines the convenience of trousers and the elegance of a skirt. In fact, these are the same favorite pants, only wider and with additional elements more characteristic of skirts. Such an item can be part of both an everyday wardrobe and a summer one. If you take expensive thin fabric, then you will get a great evening outfit in which you can go to a diplomatic reception and to the theater.

Skirt-trousers - DIY pattern

There are three ways to sew a skirt pants:

on the pattern of the skirt;
on the pattern of trousers;
without a pattern at all.

Skirt pattern

In order to make the patterns of skirts, trousers, you need a basic pattern of the skirt. Building it yourself is quite difficult, although in many sewing books you will find detailed instructions on how to do this. Especially many options are given in older editions. But there are many models on the Internet on specialized sites. If you really want to learn how to sew well and create your own models, it is best to use this option.

But nothing prevents you from doing it easier. You need a pattern of the most ordinary straight skirt, without any folds and assemblies, and there is no studio nearby where you can order it? Well, you have to get out of the situation differently. If your wardrobe has an old straight skirt that you don’t wear and don’t know where to put it, use it as a basis for a pattern. To do this, do the following:

Open the belt.
Spread all the seams (allowances can not be cut, but simply ironed well on the wrong side).
Do not forget to tear tucks.
If the front or back consists of one part, fold it in half along the length, aligning the sides.
Iron the fold.
Place parts on a piece of paper or cardboard, pin and circle (no allowances).

Old straight trousers are also suitable - only in this case we need classic, not jeans and not harem pants.

Important! If you took as a basis a pattern of a skirt of medium length or short, circle the details so that there is still space on the sheet from the lower cut.

Take measurements

Even if you already have a ready-made pattern for a skirt or trousers, you will have to model it, but for this you need measurements:

waist circumference
hip girth;
hips height;
seat height;
length of the product;
leg length on the outside (stride length);
leg length on the inside (stride width).

Waist and hips

Waist circumference is measured on the narrowest part of your figure, hip circumference - on the protruding bones and buttocks.

Seat and Hip Height

The height of the seat is not a measure, but the difference between the measures. To get it, you need to measure:

leg length on the outside from the waist to the floor;
leg length on the inside from the groin to the floor.

Subtract the second from the first measurement - we get the seat height. The height of the hips is measured on the outside of the thigh from the waist to the hips.

We simulate a pattern

Having received the contours of the parts on paper, check them with your measurements. There are a few more considerations to consider:

Those with wide hips should slightly increase their stride width.
When modeling, pay particular attention to seat height. If it is insufficient, you will be uncomfortable walking. Otherwise, when this distance has turned out more than necessary, the pants will sag.

The further order will be as follows:

Continue the midline.
Lay on it the length of the product from the waist to the floor.
If you already have a waistline, set the height of your hips down.
Draw a thigh line through this point.
From the waist line in the middle of the front, set aside the height of the seat, adding 1.5 cm to it.
Draw a line through this point parallel to the waist and hips.
Continue this line so that it goes beyond the middle of the front.
Set aside a segment equal to ⅛ of the circumference of the hips on it (on the back of this line it will be necessary to extend another 2 cm).
Connect this point to the intersection of the hips with the middle of the front in a smooth line.
From the same point, draw down a line parallel to the middle of the front, over the entire length of the product.
Connect this new point to the bottom of the bottom line.
Continue the waistline from the middle by 3 cm and put a point.
From this point, build a gap under the zipper - a strip of 18-20 cm long.
Cut out the part.

Important! The pattern of the back part is modeled in the same way - all constructions of the stepping part come from the midline. The seat height will be the same as for the front. No clearance needed; pocket line too.

Fabric calculation

The material for a trouser skirt is best taken not very thick and one that holds its shape well. The calculation is simple:

if the width of the cut is greater than the circumference of the hips, you will need one length of the product, plus 10-15 cm for additional parts and processing of seams;
if the cut width is less than the widest measure, 2 lengths will be required;
for burlap pockets, if any, more lining fabric is needed - no more than 20 cm.

Important! If a fabric with a large pattern, it will need more, because it will need to be customized.

Cut

To carve a skirt, trousers, you will need not only fabric and pattern, but also tailor pins or several heavy objects, if the patterns are made of tracing paper or graph paper:

Fold the cut in half along the length line, if the fabric is not very wide - align the edges.
Overlay the front and back patterns.
Circle them with allowance of 1.5 cm for all seams and 4 cm for hem in the bottom.
Cut out the details.
Cut out a belt - a strip, the length of which is equal to the circumference of the waist, plus 6 cm to the clasp.

You should get five details:

2 - front end;
2 - back;
1 - belt.

Skirt pants - how to sew?

As always, you need to start sewing with darts. Sweep them all, sew, iron. Further:

Sweep and stitch side seams.
Iron over the allowances; if necessary, sew overlocks or overcast manually with a buttonhole stitch.
Sweep the step seams.
Try on what you did - pay special attention to how comfortable it is for you to walk.
If necessary, adjust the seat height.
Sew step seams.
Iron allowances in different directions and process.
Sew the back seam.
Sweep the middle seam before starting the zipper.
Sweep and sew a zipper.

Belt

The belt can be with or without loops. If you plan to sew in loops, cut them out - 4 strips 6 cm long and 4 cm wide. On the belt outline the places to sew them on. They should be located symmetrically.

Fold the loops in half, facing outward, iron the fold.
The allowances on the long sides are folded inward and ironed.
Stitch each strip around the perimeter.
As for the belt, fold the workpiece in half inside out, iron the bend.
Turn the part so that the front side is inside, stitch the side seams.
Iron allowances on the long sides inward.
Take and sew the loops on the fold of the belt (they are sewn to the front side, the stitching point is swept).
Insert the top of the skirt-trousers and the free ends of the loops in the section of the belt, stitch.

Shutdown

Now all you have to do is cut up the legs. It is done like this:

Fold each leg to the wrong side by 0.5 and 3.5 cm.
Sew in the hem with a hidden seam or stitch, depending on the style.

Elastic skirt

This model is sewn of light flowing fabric of medium width. There will be only two parts - right and left. They are symmetrical and fit exactly the same. Pattern is not needed, but will need, in addition to material and sewing accessories, an even wider elastic band. Take the following measurements:

product length (from waist to floor);
side seam length;
length of a step seam.
calculate seat height

We sew a skirt pants with our own hands:

For this model, it is better to take a fabric 100-110 cm wide. It will take 2 lengths. Cutting is done directly on the material.
Fold the cut in half with the inside out, align the edges.
Determine where you will have a waistline - at a distance of 1.5 cm from the cut.
From the waist line, measure the height of the seat with the allowance towards the bottom, put a point.
Set aside the length of the product from the same point with an allowance for hemming the bottom.
Draw a line perpendicular to the edge through this point.
Cut off the workpiece.
Mark the second part the same way.