Opened in 1864, the factory began its history with the production of inexpensive, but very scarce soap at that time. Production quickly developed and expanded, and in the early 70s, Brocard decided to start producing perfumes and colognes. After some time, his products gain recognition far beyond Russia. In 1889, “Persian Lilac” received the Grand Prix at an exhibition in Paris, and the owners for the first time found themselves in second place.
By the beginning of the twentieth century, the factory began to be called the “Brocard Empire,” and every year it became more and more successful. At almost all competitions and exhibitions, Brokar's products received many awards and medals. Thus, by 1914, the factory had 8 gold medals (received at exhibitions in Paris, Nice, Barcelona, etc.)
In the same year, four Brocard stores opened in Moscow on Nikolskaya, Tverskaya, Arbat streets and on Kuznetsky Most.
After the October Revolution, the factory was nationalized and renamed State Soap Factory No. 5. Director A. Zvezdov is sent to restore order at the plant. It was he who hired the German engineer Bengsen and the French chemist-perfumer August Michel, who helped restore the factory. Three years later, a factory called “State Soap and Perfume Plant No. 5 “Novaya Zarya” began operating in a new location.
Since 1922, in addition to essential products, they began to produce perfumes. Gradually they become very popular perfume and colognes of “New Dawn”: “October”, “Paris Commune”, “New Dawn”, “Ninon”, “Cyclamen”. The fragrances of Brocard's period (“Loves, Loves Not,” “Wonderful Lilac,” “Lily of the Valley,” “Northern,” “Chypre,” “Triple”) remained popular. According to the factory legend, “Triple” cologne in a flask-shaped bottle was produced specifically without fragrance for Stalin.
In 1925, the Novaya Zarya factory introduced its wonderful fragrance “Red Moscow”. The author of the perfume composition is perfumer August Michel. Few knew that he called his invention, released back in 1913, dedicated to the House of Romanov - “The Empress’s Favorite Bouquet.” For many years this scent became business card not only factories, but also countries.
Every event that took place in the country was celebrated at the factory with a new scent. So, in 1927, for the 10th anniversary of the October Revolution, “Red Poppy” was released, and the factory dedicated the perfume “The Tale of the Fisherman and the Fish”, “The Tale of Tsar Saltan”, “The Queen of Spades” and the powder “Eugene Onegin” to Pushkin’s anniversaries. .
In 1958, at an exhibition in Brussels, “New Dawn” presented “The Black Casket”. “Blue Casket”, “Lights of Moscow”, “Stone Flower”, “Pearl”, “Evening”, “New Dawn”, “Northern” and many others. etc. All Soviet perfumery was highly appreciated by the international jury and received the “Grand Prix”. “Red Moscow” was recognized as the best fragrance and received a Gold Medal.
In the name of the next anniversary of the army, “Anniversary”, “Shield and Sword”, “Suliko”, “Triumph”, “Triumph” were released, and in honor of the conquest of space the cologne “Vostok” was released.
Some of the New Dawn fragrances are dedicated to the theater: “Great Artist”, “Debut”, “Mask”, “Confession”.
From 1979 to 1980, Novaya Zarya perfumers worked on fragrances in honor of the Moscow Olympics in August. The famous fragrances “Olympic Souvenir”, the perfumes “Olympian” and “Bear” were born in a bottle in the shape of the Olympic symbol.
For the 850th anniversary of Moscow, they released the “Mayor” fragrance, which soon became a prize-winner in the competition for the best perfume and cosmetic products of 1997, held by the Russian Perfume and Cosmetics Association.
Today's factory is intense, continuous work, because production is growing every year. Every year, up to 30 new types of perfumes and cosmetics are developed and introduced to the market.
A new stage in the development of the factory and production of products under the new name “Nouvelle Etoile” is a unique example of a fruitful and productive Russian-French partnership.
"New Dawn" is a Moscow perfume and cosmetics factory. Domestic perfumery has its own long history. And of course, the Russian perfume industry was started by a Frenchman. His name is Henri Brocard. This famous French perfumer arrived in Russia in 1861, and in 1864 he founded a factory in Moscow, which is still known today as “New Dawn”. 
At the end of the 19th century, this factory was the largest in Europe! Since 1925, it has been producing the famous perfume “Red Moscow”. 
Brocard came from a perfume dynasty. His father, Atanas, owned a perfume factory and had his own store on the Champs Elysees in Paris.
Atanas' son Heinrich turned out to be much more fortunate. In the story of this success, as always, “cherche la femme,” or “look for a woman.” Heinrich Brocard owes much of his work to his wife, Charlotte Reve. Belgian by birth, born in Russia and educated in Moscow, she was very familiar with our culture. 
CHARLOTTE AND HENRY BROCKARD.
Valentin Pikul in the story “The Fragrant Symphony of Life” writes: “The brokers opened a second store on Birzhevaya Square, and then they had to call the police, because a huge crowd threatened to destroy the doors and break windows in order to break through to the counter. The fact is that Charlotte Andreevna came up with an unprecedented surprise. “Sets” were sold for just one ruble: ten perfume products with the same scents (perfume, cologne, powder, creams, sachets, lipsticks, etc.) were packed in an elegant box. They managed to sell only two thousand “sets”, after which the police, all in turmoil, ordered the store to be closed, unable to cope with the pressing crowd.” 
However, at first, at the factory opened by Brocard in Russia, they produced not perfumes at all, but... perfumed soap. At that time, soap was in short supply. Brocard's soap had unusual shape, for example, spherical or with printed Russian letters - for children. A cologne fountain was then installed for the public, into which anyone could dip a handkerchief for free, and thus began the great success of the Brocard Empire. The New Dawn perfumes were of excellent quality and were sold to many European countries. Unfortunately, the revolution of 1917 put an end to Brocard's Empire, but his factory, the famous "New Dawn", continued and continues to exist. 
Thanks to the factory, Novaya Zarya Street appeared in Moscow in connection with the planned construction of residential buildings on it for workers and employees of the factory. Until 1929, this name was borne by the modern 4th Roshchinsky passage. On October 10, 1929, the name was assigned to the street adjacent to the passage, which still bears this name today. 
Brocard's most famous creation was the perfume “The Empress's Favorite Bouquet,” released in 1913. Nowadays it is known as “Red Moscow”. These perfumes were created specifically for Grand Duchess Maria Alexandrovna, the last Russian Empress. However, although “Red Moscow” is served as the same “Bouquet”, there is an opinion that this is not entirely true. The fact is that no one except Brocard knew the exact composition of the “Bouquet”, and after his death the exact analogue was never found - Henry took it with him to the grave. 
Now “New Dawn” successfully competes with foreign perfume companies. Despite the fact that the New Dawn aromas retain excellent quality. 
However, in every barrel of honey there is always a fly in the ointment. Many of today's New Dawn perfumes repeat either the aroma or the bottle of well-known foreign perfumes. Obviously, such coincidences are not an accident. For example, " Green tea“New Dawn” is very similar to “Green Tea” by Elizabeth Arden. But “White Tea” sends us straight to “Au The Blanc” from Bvlgari. “Delicate musk” (by the way, a magnificent aroma from the wonderful series “Magic of Patchouli”, “Golden Amber” and “Gentle Musk”) is reminiscent of “Musk Kublai Khan” by Serge Luten. “Kuznetsky Most” is a clone of the famous “Climat”. In “Red Poppy” you can easily recognize “Flower by Kenzo”. And in “White Iris” I personally hear “Anais Anais” from Cacharel. And so on and so forth... 
I BUYED THIS PERFUME. THE AROMAS EXACTLY LIKE CLIMAT. 
I think every person familiar with perfumery can have their own associations. However, all these comparisons do not at all detract from the quality of New Dawn perfumes - the aromas are excellent! Perhaps many people will be able to afford to buy these domestic analogues of foreign perfumes if the prices for imported perfumes seem too high. 
Surely many have already noticed the billboards on the streets of Moscow advertising the Nouvelle Etoile perfume store. This is nothing more than our old friend “New Dawn”, only in French, in a Russian-French project. 
Not only Russian, but also French professionals continue to work on the New Dawn fragrances. This means that the exchange of perfume experience between our two countries continues. Let's hope that this cooperation will not greatly affect the prices of long-loved perfumes. 
FOR MEN 
MORE ABOUT PERFUME "RED MOSCOW".
"Red Moscow" - famous in Soviet time women's perfume produced by the Moscow factory “New Dawn” (before the revolution - “Broccard and Co”). They contain more than 60 components; the official description of the perfume says: “A subtle, warm, noble aroma with a hint of orange blossom.” 
Rudolf Arkadyevich Friedman in his book “Perfumery”, published in 1955, writes: “Red Moscow is associated with elegant warmth, playful and flirtatious languor, melodic, plastic melodiousness,” “Red Moscow perfume, which is mainly a violet complex, the smell itself is quite sentimental, but which, thanks to a change in timbre and the introduction of a number of harmonizing substances, received a special beauty and richness of smell", "Red Moscow perfume, consisting of a mixture of the bases of iris, violet, cloves to perfect (round out) all these primary materials and to enhance their subtle scent require a significant proportion of jasmine essence.” Renata Litvinova characterizes them as “sugary, concentrated... giving rise to a feeling of normal healthy nostalgia.” In 1958 they were awarded a prize at the World Exhibition in Brussels. 
According to a less popular version, the Red Moscow perfume was created in the mid-1920s. with the participation of Polina Zhemchuzhina (wife of the future People's Commissar V.M. Molotov) and are not directly related to pre-revolutionary fragrances, since at that time the corresponding ingredients were not yet used in perfumery. 
There is also an urban legend about the special similarity of the scents “Red Moscow” and “Chanel No. 5”. In this case, either soviet perfume are interpreted as an attempt by the Soviet perfume industry to copy the famous French scent, or it is argued that the French scent was synthesized by Ernest Beaux (who worked in Moscow before the revolution) based on the “Bouquet of the Empress”.
Thematic table of contents (For life)
Well, let’s remember the products of the Moscow factory “Novaya Zarya”. Let's start with the fact that this is its Soviet name, and before the revolution it was called by the name of its owner, Heinrich Afanasyevich Brocard or Henri Brocard.
The factory was a family business. The owner, a Frenchman who married a Russian and had knowledge and skills in the field of perfumery (he was from a family of perfumers), organized a new production. The factory produced products no worse than the French ones and was one of the first in Russia to use various advertising technologies: soap as a gift when buying cologne, cute postcards in addition to the purchase, bonuses, interestingly decorated display cases, etc. But this is a separate story.
Here we will talk about the perception of “New Dawn” products by women in the 80s. Indeed, these perfumes were not valued, at least in Moscow. The most famous of them were “Red Moscow”. They even received some kind of prize at an international exhibition, but a very long time ago. The perfume was sold in a beautiful bottle with a brush and in a red box with a silhouette of the Kremlin wall. For example, I didn’t like the smell of them, but they were persistent. In general, the durability of a perfume depends on the amount of its own perfume composition per volume of liquid. Since the 80s, there have been fewer and fewer perfume compositions, and not only in our perfumes, but throughout the world.
Is it possible to compare the French perfumes of that time with those of today? They were very persistent. For 20 years, it smelled like some perfumed handkerchief that had been forgotten in the pocket of an old dress stored on the mezzanine. Sometimes they could be bought in large department stores or specialized stores, for example, GUM, Gifts. French perfumes cost about 25 rubles, speculators sold them for 40. Or maybe 35 and 50 - I don’t remember. And “Red Moscow” cost somewhere around 5-7 rubles.
French perfume were considered very a good gift, they were given to beloved women, doctors, teachers, officials, and “Red Moscow” could be given to a grandmother.
In the 70s, Arab perfumes were still popular, which were brought from Egypt by our specialists working there at large facilities. And they were sold in stores. Ah, Nefertiti! How I liked them! Unfortunately, these spirits no longer exist. The French bought Arab brands and destroyed them.
Polish perfumes were sold in the Wanda company store. “Pani Valevskaya” was quoted in a long blue bottle.
As a last resort, they bought “Dzinters” perfume - Latvian.
So “New Dawn” was in last place in the ranking of consumer preferences.
In addition to “Red Moscow”, “Novaya Zarya” produced the perfume “Stone Flower” in an original green box, similar to a malachite mountain, and the perfume “Lily of the Valley Silver” (although I just loved “Lily of the Valley”), and, of course, “Chypre " for men. Perfume "Red Poppy". I don't remember anymore. But their range has not changed for decades.
My husband still divides all perfumes into “Chypre”, “Lily of the Valley” and “Red Moscow”. In principle, he is right: scents are divided into chypre, floral and fantasy.
Just before the end of the USSR (or in the early 90s?), the factory created a new perfume - “Gold of the Scythians”. Then there was Kuznetsky Most. They were in demand. Then they made new perfumes almost every three months. Oddly enough, Novaya Zarya is still intact, moreover, they have no competitors in Russia.
They have branded stores, and they stock everything they've ever released on their shelves. So I found out that they not only had “Silver Lily of the Valley,” but also perfumes that imitated the smells of almost all existing flowers, for example, geranium and mimosa. And I love pure floral aromas without impurities - perfumery once began with them back in Ancient Egypt. Have you seen tall cones on the heads of some of the women depicted in the frescoes? These were a kind of perfume, and they consisted of fat, which was retained by the smell of jasmine and roses.
I’m not sure if Novaya Zarya produced creams, but I’ll still remember them. For example, I always bought Velvet cream in glass bottles- it was so pink. It was suitable for all occasions, but had one drawback: it was difficult to shake out of the bottle, especially towards the end. It's a shame he disappeared. They said about our creams that although their packaging is unsightly, they are natural and environmentally friendly. And the “Children’s” cream was good. AND cucumber lotion. And loose powder in cardboard boxes. True, I myself already used compact powder.
Many people liked domestic lipstick, again on the principle of harmlessness. For some reason it was instantly erased for me, and I preferred French, English, Italian, which again could be bought without special troubles in large Moscow stores. Not always, but no, no, and I did get caught.
Today there are many perfumes, and they are very different. Now people no longer think that if a perfume is French, it means it is the best. All perfumes have lost their staying power, and there is no point in paying 10 times more - it will be the same. Of course, they buy popular brands, but there is also a demand for narrow original lines, and even for individual scents. In this diversity there is also a place for the spirits of “New Moscow”. In any case, I don't pass by their stores.
At one time, the founder of the factory, now known as Novaya Zarya, complained that domestic perfumes were not taken seriously - everyone was chasing French ones. Over the past century and a half, the situation has changed little. However, in light of today's market situation, Novaya Zarya looks more attractive, if only because it does not raise prices as rapidly as its Western colleagues. The cost, of course, does not remain the same - after all, the factory works closely with French laboratories and purchases a lot from them.
Before “tasting” the New Dawn perfume, it would be interesting to know about its past!
Brocard and Co.
The history of the largest perfume factory in Russia began in 1864 with... penny soap.
When the hereditary French perfumer Heinrich Brocard opened his soap factory in Moscow, things did not start right away. At first, the soap was made in a former stable, and besides Brocard himself, there were only two assistants on the staff. The profit was meager. But one day the perfumer (it is believed, at the suggestion of his wife) decided to make souvenir soap: one type in the shape of animals, another with letters, and a third in the shape of vegetables. Fathers of families happily brought such gifts from the fair to their children and wives.
By the early 1970s, Brocard had earned enough to move on to producing perfumes and colognes. In 1873 he became court supplier. The whole of Moscow smelled of “Flower” cologne; a million bottles were produced a year. And for “Persian Lilac” Brocard received a Gold Medal in Paris, leaving his French colleagues behind.
After the death of the founder, the empire passed to his wife Charlotte, then to his son. At this time, the talented perfumer August Michel was working at the factory, who came up with the fragrance “The Empress’s Favorite Bouquet”. These perfumes have been around for over a century, just under a different name. Can you guess which one? Yes, this is exactly “Red Moscow”, the most famous fragrance of “New Dawn”!
New Zarya
After the revolution, the Brocard and Co. factory was nationalized, christening it “State Soap Factory No. 5.” Three years later, the unappetizing name was replaced with “New Dawn”.
The basis of the assortment was soap products, but in 1922 the production of perfumes was resumed. Paying tribute to the “red” theme (perfume “October”, “Paris Commune”), perfumers listened to the voices of nature (“Lily of the valley”, “Wonderful lilac”, “Cyclamen”) and the whispers of feelings (“Loves, does not love”, “ Ninon").
The USSR had its own chypre fragrance - Chypre cologne. Another legend is “Triple”. The production of “The Empress’s Favorite Bouquet” began in 1925 (of course, now “Red Moscow” was written on the bottle).
“Red Poppy” celebrated the first anniversary of the October Revolution, and three new releases were released for Pushkin’s days: “The Tale of the Fisherman and the Fish,” “The Tale of Tsar Saltan” and “The Queen of Spades.”
The factory responded to any significant event in the history of the country with fresh releases. “Anniversary” perfumes, “Shield and Sword”, “Triumph” marked the anniversary of the army, and a new cologne “Vostok” was timed to coincide with the first space flight. Both theatrical (“Great Artist”, “Debut”, “Mask”) and Olympic themes (“Olympian” and “Bear”) can be traced. “Lights of Moscow” sank into the soul of some, “Evening” for others, “Waltz of the Flowers” for others...
Nouvelle Etoile
A new stage was cooperation with French laboratories. The company is proud that perfumers Michel Almarac and Francis Camai participated in the creation of some of the fragrances, and the bottles were designed by Thierry de Bashmakoff. Russian-French cooperation became official in 2004, when the Nouvelle Etoile brand appeared.
Some of the most popular fragrances today include:
- “Scythian Gold” - honey, with herbal, apple, ylang undertones;
- Kuznetsky Most (“Kuznetsky Bridge”) – autumn-spring, creamy-powdery, with velvet lining. Often compared to Lancome Climate;
- The Vert (“Green Tea”) is a cool tea-lemon “drink” for hot days, light and unsweetened. New Dawn is often accused of imitating Western bestsellers, and this time one cannot help but recall the Elizabeth Arden fragrance of the same name, which is even similar in packaging. But which one is better - a student or a teacher? - you decide;
- La Belle de Russie (“Russian Beauty”): a sweetish peach-apricot mix for cold days;
- Follow Me Day “Follow Me Day” - a feminine cocktail with roses and irises;
- the citrusy Eau Jeune seems to many to be very close to what was sold in the 80s;
- floral green unisex White Tea with bergamot and freesia;
- chypre Tete-A-Tete, which comes from Soviet times;
- Renommee (rose, apple, greens).
And most importantly, after a long break, “Red Moscow” has been coming out for several years now. Will New Dawn's future be as loud as its past? Time will show.
