Classification and assortment of fur products. Women's furs Assortment of women's furs

Capes, half capes, stoles (Fig. 44), gorgets (flat with lining and tubular without lining), scarves and kerchiefs are referred to women's fur garments. They are sorted according to GOST 10151-75.

Women's fur garments in terms of ribs, color, color, quality groups, softness, silveriness, pattern must comply with the requirements of standards and other regulatory and technical documentation for semi-finished fur products.

Products must be made from skins or their parts, uniform in density, height, softness, sinuosity, gloss, color, color of the hairline; skins with crimped hair should be selected according to the nature of the curl.

The color, thickness, height of the hairline must correspond to the natural changes in properties in the areas of the skin, characteristic of this type of fur raw material.

The color of the hairline of products made from single-colored skins should be uniform.

Holes, tears, bald spots, dominoes, bites, as well as areas with a clearly different character of the hairline should be removed, inserts and attachments should be selected in accordance with the quality and direction of the hairline and should not stand out against the general background of the product. Holes and bald spots with an area of not more than 0.2 cm 2 are allowed.

Women's fur dresses, except for tubular gorgets, are made on a silk lining, scarves - on a silk and fur lining.

Capes are sleeveless, lined capes that fit over the shoulders, back and chest and are worn over the dress. Capes are made from semi-finished fur products of valuable species. Pelevins come in different models, long and short, narrow and wide. Tails of skins are sewn to the bottom of the cape. Capes consist of two shelves (right and left) and a back. A cotton fabric is laid between the knife cloth and the lining. A hook is attached to the right side, and a loop of twisted silk is attached to the left side. The number of skins per cape, depending on the type of semi-finished product, is: ermine - 80-100, column - 20-26, martens - 10-12, foxes - 4-5, mink - 15-20, sable - 6-10, arctic fox - 3-4.

In the manufacture of capes, complex cutting methods are used (transfer, stitching and dissolution).

Half capes somewhat shorter and already cape. By appearance they resemble a shawl collar. Semi-pelerines can replace the collar on a winter coat or serve as an adornment for women's dresses and suits. They are made from the skins of silver-black fox, natural and dyed arctic fox, mink, Ussuri raccoon, marten and sable. The skins are cut along the ridge and in the middle of the casing into two parts and connected along the rump. Half capes come in different styles. The area of the semi-pelerine from the skin of a fox is from 17 to 20 dm 2, from the arctic fox - from 15 to 18 dm 2, from the Ussuri raccoon - at least 19 dm 2.

Stole- a fur strip 2-2.5 m long and 30 to 50 cm wide. The stole in appearance resembles a large turn-down collar, but unlike it has elongated ends. Stoles are made (unlike headless gorgets) from sable, marten, mink, ermine, and mole skins.

Gorgets- whole fur skins with head, paws and tail. They are made tubular from uncut skins taken with a tube, or flat from skins torn along the neck, on a silk lining. Gorgets have a rounded shape. Inside the tubular gorget there should be a lining of a thin layer of tufted batting. The heads of gorgets are usually made of hard, papier-mâché, with teeth and eyes; on more expensive gorgets, the heads may be soft, without teeth. Gorgets are made from the skins of common, silver-black, platinum fox, gray fox, white and blue fox, marten, mink and sable.

Gorgets should be made of skins with a head, tail and paws with claws.

Scarves- fur strips on a silk or fur lining 100-200 cm long and 10-70 cm wide. Scarves can be made from skins with a head, paws, tail and without them.

Scarves- collars of complex cutting methods on a silk lining. They are worn, without sewing, over a dress or coat.

In products, the skins must be uniform in appearance, grade, group of defects, color, shade, softness, luster and height of the hairline.

The quality of the hairline of inserts and attachments must correspond to the quality of the hairline of the product. Inserts and prefixes should not stand out.

The transverse seams connecting the fur skins of the scarf, as well as the seams on the right and left shelves of the cape and half cape, must match.

Capes, half capes, gorgets and scarves can have fasteners.

Fur products include a variety of fur products made from natural fur and fur skins; raw and dressed skins and skins from fur, sea animals, domestic and farm animals. Thus, fur raw materials, semi-finished products and products are distinguished.

Fur raw materials- Raw raw skins.

Fur semi-finished products- dressed, sometimes dyed skins suitable for the manufacture of products.

Fur product- all types of products made from natural fur, including plates and furs.

Fur raw materials are divided into 4 groups:

fur raw material ( fur) - skins obtained from animals obtained by hunting (sable, squirrel, otter, wolf, marmot, ground squirrel, etc.) or bred in fur farms (mink, blue fox, silver-black fox, sable, marmot, polecat);
fur raw materials - skins obtained from domestic and agricultural animals (rabbits, dogs, cats, sheep, goats, reindeer), which have a beautiful hairline and are suitable for the manufacture of fur products;
fur marine raw materials - skins of fur seals and seals of various age groups (belek, khokhlusha, serk, seal), suitable for the quality of the hairline for the manufacture of fur products;
skins birds- skins of some species of waterfowl (grebe, loon, pelican, cormorant, swan, geese) with a dense, soft and durable feather and down cover suitable for the production of fur products.

Fur and fur raw materials are usually divided into winter and spring types.

Winter species include the skins of animals that have the best fur in winter, do not hibernate, which are mainly mined in winter time(mink, fox, squirrel, weasel, marten, sable, hare, etc.), as well as the skins of animals whose hair in winter has best quality(rabbit, cat, dog).

For spring species - the skins of animals that lie in hibernation (ground squirrel, marmot, mole, muskrat, nutria, etc.), which are hunted in spring, autumn and summer, as well as young domestic animals (sheep, goats, deer, foals, calves, etc.).

Skin structure

The fur skin has hair and skin tissue, which consists of the epidermis (surface layer), dermis (the main layer of skin tissue formed from bundles of collagen fibers tightly intertwined) and subcutaneous adipose tissue (removed during dressing). cover - a set of various hairs covering the body of an animal, performing protective and thermoregulatory functions. The hair is formed from the protein keratin and consists of a shaft and a bulb. The hair shaft is formed from three layers: the cuticle (outer scaly layer), the cortical layer and the core. Hair in shape can be of three types: spindle-shaped, cylindrical and conical. By the nature and degree of crimp, the hair of fur-bearing animals is various shapes: straight, curved at an angle, curved in length, wavy, corkscrew, spiral. The hairline of fur skins includes several categories of hair: tactile, covering, downy. Covering hairs consist of guides (straight, thick and long, protruding above the hairline, forming a "veil") and guard hairs (shorter and thinner than guides). Downy hair - thin and short, the most numerous.

The skin consists of the following topographical sections: tail, rump, ridge, nape, muzzle, darlings, sides, belly, paws.

Fur raw material is a raw material of natural origin, its quality and properties depend mainly on the natural, biological characteristics of the skin.

The hairline of animals under the influence of various environmental factors is subject to strong variability, which is associated with living conditions, keeping and feeding, geographical location (geographical variability), season (seasonal variability), sex (sexual variability), age (age variability) and individual deviations (individual variability).

In fur-bearing animals that lead a terrestrial lifestyle (squirrel, sable, marten, fox), there is a pronounced difference in the pubescence of individual parts of the body: the ridge is always covered with a denser hairline than the belly. The color of the hairline of the ridge is darker. The skin on the ridge is thicker than on the belly. Animals leading an underground lifestyle, i.e., spending most of their time in burrows (mole, mole rat), are covered with a uniform hairline. In amphibious fur-bearing animals (otter, mink, muskrat, nutria, river beaver), the bellies are covered with a denser hairy coat than the ridge. The color and thickness of the skin of the ridge and the belly are the same in most species of amphibians.

Depending on the climate, the following features of the skins change: the size, density and length of the hair, the softness and color of the hairline, and the thickness of the skin tissue. Northern fur-bearing animals are covered with thicker and longer hair than southern animals of the same species. Usually the skins of northern animals are covered with softer hair than the skins of animals from the southern regions. With increasing density, the hair becomes thinner and seems softer. The humidity of the air also affects the softness of the hair. Animals living in more humid climates have coarser fur. The color of the hairline in individuals of the northern regions is lighter or completely white (protective), the color of the forest strip is intensely saturated, the steppe and desert regions are dull, sandy-gray. A ridge is a set of certain commercial properties characteristic of fur skins of a given species, mined in a certain geographical area. The ridge, as a rule, is given the name of the geographical area where the skins come from: Amur, Yakut, Altai squirrels.

Product groups	Types of fur semi-finished product
Winter
Otters	Otter, sea otter, mink
beaver	River beaver, nutria
Muskrats	Muskrat, desman
Kunya	Sable, soft marten, mountain marten, kharza, kidus
Ferrets	Ferret dark, ferret light, ferret-ligation, columns, solong, ermine, weasel
foxes	Fox: red, silver-black, platinum, snow, black-and-white gray fox, krestovka, corsac fox, jackal, wolf, white fox, blue fox, striped raccoon,
raccoon	Ussuri raccoon
feline	Wild cats: manul, reed, forest, Amur, steppe, lynx, leopard, leopard, tiger, cheetah
wolverine	Wolverine
Badger	Badger
bearish	White bear, forest bear
Hare	White hare, European hare
squirrels	Squirrel, flying squirrel
spring
Surkovs	Marmot, tarbagan
small rodents	Chipmunk, water rat, barn rat, hamster, cap, mole rat, dormouse, jerboa, ground squirrel
mole	Mole

Fox skins. There are skins of red foxes, gray foxes, crosses, black-brown, platinum, snow. The color of the hairline varies from dark red (bright red) to gray or off-white. Skins with ugly colors are dyed. Gorgets, collars, capes, hats, women's outerwear are made from them.

Mink skins. There are two types of mink: cellular breeding and hunted. The skins have a soft and silky hairline, with well-developed downy hair and protruding guard hairs. Mink skins obtained by hunting are divided into 3 ridges: Siberian, northern and Caucasian. The color of the hairline of skins obtained by hunting is dark brown or light brown. There is a wide variety of shades of cell breeding mink skins (extra, blue iris, sapphire, pastel, topaz, palamino, Aleutian and
etc.). Mink skins are used in in kind for the manufacture of collars, hats, women's coats, manto, women's fur garments. In recent years, mink skins have been plucked (the guard hairs are removed) to obtain a velvety hairline.

Fox skins. The arctic fox has a dense high hairline with highly developed soft guard hairs and very dense down. The thickest and highest hairline is on the nape of the skin, less dense on the rump and sparse on the belly. According to the color of the hairline, arctic foxes are divided into white and blue. Headdresses, gorgets, women's coats, short coats, collars, cuffs, etc. are made from the skins of arctic foxes.

Sable skins. The most valuable type of domestic fur. The coat of sable is characterized by a special density and silkiness and can have a color from black-brown to light chestnut. On the throat of the sable there is a faintly expressed light yellow spot. The skins of the free sable are divided into ridges (Barguzin, Kamchatka, Amur, Yakut, Minusinsk, etc.). Sable skins are characterized by strong individual variability. Depending on the color of the hairline, sable skins are divided into seven color categories. Sable skins are used for the manufacture of collars, headdresses, gorgets, capes, stoles, women's coats, mantles.

Muskrat skins. The hairline of the muskrat skin is relatively thick, consists of an elastic awn and soft silky silver-blue down; the coloration is dark or light brown and silvery white on the belly. Available in natural and dyed mostly brown.

To the group FUR semi-finished products include winter and spring skins. Winter species include the skins of rabbits, cats and dogs. The group of fur semi-finished products of spring species includes the skins of the following domestic animals: reindeer, foals, calves, kids. The skins of foals and calves are produced natural or dyed (black or colored). These skins include:

foal- the skin of a foal with a low, adjacent to the skin tissue, smooth or muary hairline; skin tissue is thin;
flask- the skin of a calf under the age of 10 days. The hairline of the skin is low, dense, muary or smooth.
goat- the skin of a kid under the age of 1 month. The hairline of a goat is almost without fluff, soft, up to 4 cm high.

These types of fur semi-finished products are used for coats, short coats, jackets.

Sheepskin and fur semi-finished product. These are the skins of fine-fleeced, semi-fine-fleeced and semi-coarse breeds of sheep. The coat of fine-wool sheepskin is dense, uniform in height (up to 8 cm), consisting of thin, strongly and evenly crimped hair up to 25 microns thick. The semi-fine-fleeced sheepskin has a dense and high hairline, consisting of coarser and less crimped hair than that of the fine-fleeced sheepskin. Hair thickness 25.1-31 microns. Semi-coarse-wool sheepskin has a non-uniform hairline, the thickness of the hair is more than 31 microns. Fur sheepskins are available in sheared (with a hair height of 5 to 20 mm, depending on the purpose), natural or dyed. In recent years, two-sided finishing of fur sheepskins has been used: they ennoble the hairline and leather fabric, produce the so-called fur velor and fur sheepskin with a film coating. Outer fur clothes, hats, collars, vests are made from fur sheepskin.

Sheepskin coat semi-finished product. obtained from coarse-wooled breeds of sheep: Romanov, Russian, steppe, etc. They are characterized by a coarse, heterogeneous hairline in height, consisting of outer and downy hair. A modern sheepskin coat semi-finished product is characterized by a two-sided finish from the side of the hairline and leather fabric. Fur coat sheepskin can have a film coating. Sheepskin coat semi-finished products are used to make naked products (sheepskin coats).

Karakul-smushkovo-lamer semi-finished products. Astrakhan-smushkovo-lamok semi-finished products include the skins of lambs of a certain age of various breeds of sheep with primary hair: astrakhan, astrakhan, astrakhan, lamok, webbing, etc. Astrakhan and karakulcha are obtained from lambs of the karakul or crossbred breed of sheep. Smushka, lambskin, strap - from fine-wooled, semi-fine-wooled, semi-coarse-wooled and coarse-wooled lambs.

Broadtail- the skin of an unborn lamb of purebred Karakul sheep and mestizos with a low, soft hairline, tightly adjacent to the skin tissue, with a moire pattern; leather is thin. Broadtail is used for coats and jackets, but mainly as a trim for women's dresses, coats, suits.

Astrakhan- lamb skin at the age of 1-3 days. Karakul of purebred (karakul) sheep has a silky, dense hairline in the form of curls of various shapes. There are the following main types of curls: valek, bob, mane, as well as a ring, half ring, corkscrew, lasses, polka dots. Karakul-mestizo (from mixed-breed lambs of coarse-wooled sheep and Karakul sheep) is characterized by a coarse or slightly silky, vitreous-shiny or matte hairline with various astrakhan curls. According to the color of the hairline, purebred astrakhan and mestizo can be black (dyed), colored (sur, brown, white, pink, motley), gray (black, light, dark gray). Black and colored astrakhan is used for women's coats and jackets, as well as collars and hats for men and women.

Smushka- lamb skin of asmoshkovy breeds of sheep (chushka, Sokolskaya, etc.) at the age of 2-4 days. The curls are similar in shape to astrakhan, but looser, untwisted.

Sea animal skins are subdivided into the following age groups: Belek (skin of a baby seal with a primary hairline of white and cream colors, sometimes with a grayish or greenish tinge); hooded seal (skin of a hooded seal cub of dark silver color); serka and sivar (skins of pups and young seals with a secondary, shiny, low, smooth hairline of gray or silver-gray color, in the Baikal seal - with a greenish tint); seal and ringed seal (skins of adult seals and ringed seals with low, shiny, gray-green, light yellow, smoky colors with dark spots consisting of awns).

Classification and characteristics of the range of fur products

Fur products are divided according to their functional purpose into the following groups: outer fur clothing; fur parts for clothes with tops made of leather, fabrics; fur women's dresses; fur hats; fur haberdashery; fur shoes; household fur products; plates and furs.

By gender and age, separate groups are divided into subgroups: women's, men's, children's. In subgroups, goods are classified by type, style, size.

Outer fur clothing

Women's outer fur clothing. The range consists of coats (greater floor wrap, wide armholes and no fasteners), coats (112-120 cm), short coats (80-100 cm) and jackets (65-75 cm), which vary in length. The styles of women's outer fur clothing can be quite diverse: single-breasted, double-breasted, simple and complex cutting methods. Coat silhouettes: semi-adjacent, adjacent, straight, flared from the waist, from the top, etc. For women's coats, short coats, jackets, jackets, the following semi-finished products are used: squirrel, astrakhan fur, goat, cat, rabbit of various imitations, mole, lambskin, mink , sheepskin, fur seal, muskrat, polecat, opossum, marmot, fox, white and blue fox, etc. For the top fur women's clothing GOST provides for 9 sizes and 5 heights.

Men's outerwear. Top range menswear is less diverse. Coats, short coats, jackets, jackets and vests are produced from semi-coarse-wool and coarse-wool sheepskin, dog skins, foal, calf, lambs, seals. The direction of the hair is from top to bottom. Recently, products made of sheepskin coats with a double-sided finish (velour-like and latex-coated) have become most widespread. Men's outerwear is made in 9 sizes and 5 heights.

Children's outerwear. The styles of coats and jackets depend on the age group. There are 3 age groups: preschool or nursery, junior school, senior school. For the first group, products for boys and girls are almost the same in style. Basically, they sew a coat of a straight or extended silhouette to the bottom. For girls, fur semi-finished products are used light colors, for boys - darker. Coat for girls school and adolescence they produce straight, semi-adjacent and extended silhouettes, single-breasted or double-breasted, sleeves - set-in, raglan, combined, yoke sleeve, stand-up collars, round, shawl, in the form of a hood, scarf, etc. Inexpensive types of semi-finished products are used for children's clothing: fur sheepskin and fur velor, rabbit, cat, lambskin, smushka, webbing, white hare. The skins of arctic fox and fox are also used as decoration.

Fur part of clothing. The fur part of the clothing is collars, cuffs, edging, fur lining. Fur collars are subdivided by sex and age groups, styles, sizes, colors, varieties and defectiveness groups. The styles of the collars are very diverse and depend on the fashion (shawl, straight, stand). For women's collars, almost all types of semi-finished fur products are used, for men - from astrakhan, astrakhan, rabbit, sheared dyed sheepskin, etc. Children's collars are made from cheap types of fur semi-finished products - rabbit, squirrel, lambskin, sheared dyed sheepskin .The fur lining for winter coats and jackets is made from fur and fur coat sheepskin, rabbit, astrakhan paws, fox paws and darlings, furrier flap.

Women's fur garments. These products are divided into 2 groups: lined with silk (pelerines, semi-pelerines, stoles, flat gorgets); unlined (tubular gorgets).

Cape - a cape without sleeves. The most diverse styles: long, short, wide, narrow. Tails are often sewn to the hem of the cape. Half capes - a large collar. They are made from valuable types of fur: mink, squirrel, muskrat, sable, marten, weasel, ermine, silver-black fox, arctic fox, muskrat, broadtail, etc. Stoles - a strip of various lengths (2-2.5 m) and widths (30-50 cm), sewn from the skins of sable, marten, mink, ermine, astrakhan, squirrels, etc. Gorgets are made round from uncut skins with heads, or flat in a flattened form on a silk lining.

Fur hats. The range of hats is varied. They produce men's, women's and children's hats. The size is determined by the circumference along the inner side of the lower side. Headwear sizes for adults - 54-63, for children - 50-60. The styles of women's hats change quite often in accordance with fashion (hat with fields, fantasy, current, beret, boyarka, bonnet, ball, etc.). For them, the skins of arctic fox, sable, fox, nutria, astrakhan fur, broadtail, ermine, otter, rabbit, squirrel, seal, sheepskin and
etc. The range of men's hats is more stable (boyarka, Moscow, gogol, earflaps, hat, kubanka, sports, Olympic, Leningrad). Men's hats are made from short-haired types of semi-finished fur products: astrakhan, astrakhan, lambskin, sea animal skins, calf, foal, rabbit, sheepskin, as well as mink and sable.

Fur haberdashery. It is customary to refer to fur haberdashery mittens and gloves made using fur (strap, rabbit). have become popular in recent years handbags and muffs made of mink, astrakhan, rabbit, sheepskin.

Household fur products. Household fur products include carpets, bedspreads, blankets, pillows, mainly from sheepskin, as well as bear, leopard, zebra and other exotic furs used for interior decoration.

Sheepskin coats. Products made from sheepskin coats without lining with leather fabric outside are called naked (sheepskin coats). These products are characterized by high heat-shielding properties and good wear. These products are traditional for Russia and are common in rural areas. Their assortment has expanded in recent years due to the use of colored sheepskin coats with ennobled hairline and leather fabric trimmed with velor. Modern product designs and improved finishes meet the increased demands of consumers for these clothes, which are called sheepskin coats in everyday life. For them, sheared sheepskin coats with a hair length in the straightened state of 30 mm are used. Sheepskin coats are divided according to age and gender into: men's, women's and children's; by types: sheepskin coats, short fur coats, jackets, coats, short coats, jackets, vests; by size.

Regulatory documents regulating the quality of fur semi-finished products and products

There is no single standard that classifies all types of fur. Standards for semi-finished fur products and goods can be divided into standards characterizing fur and fur raw materials various kinds; dressed skins of various types of furs and furs; methods for testing dressed fur skins; standards for fur products of various types.

Requirements for fur products are set out in the following standards: GOST 5710-85 "Clothes made of sheepskin coats and fur velor", GOST 28503-90 "Clothes with fur lining", GOST 8765-93 "Fur and combined clothing", GOST 10325-79 " Fur hats", GOST 10151-75 "Women's fur hats".

Peculiarities of examination of fur semi-finished products and products from them

The semi-finished fur product is subdivided according to ridges, sizes, varieties, colors and groups of defects.

The division into ridges is typical for the skins of squirrels, sables, red foxes, free minks, white foxes, marmots, and marmots. The skins of different ridges differ in a number of commercial properties inherent in skins mined only in a given geographical area. These properties are: the size of the skin, splendor, height, density, color, silkiness of the hairline, the thickness of the skin tissue, the mass of the skin.

According to size, the skins of those types of furs are divided in which there is a significant difference in size depending on age variability and sex. As a rule, semi-finished fur products are divided into three (rarely four) categories: small, medium, large, extra large. The size of the skin is determined by measuring its length (from the intereye to the root of the tail), width (along the midline) and multiplying these values.

The grade of the skin reflects the condition of the hairline of the semi-finished product, depending on the season of fur-bearing animal production. The fur variety is understood as a set of certain trademarks, depending on the degree of development of the hairline of the skin. Trademarks that define the variety are the splendor, density, length and softness of the hairline. Furs are divided into two, three grades. The first grade includes full-haired skins, with high, frequent awn, thick down; to the second - less full-haired skins, with underdeveloped awn and down; to the third - half-haired skins with not fully developed awn and down. The skins of some types of furs are of the highest grade (extra).

The skins of those types of furs (squirrel, mink, marten, sable, silver-black fox, etc.) are divided by color, in which the variability of the hairline is strongly expressed. Especially strong color variability is manifested in mink, nutria, blue fox of cellular breeding.

Depending on the presence and size of defects, the skins of most types of furs are divided into three or four groups of defects. GOST establishes the indicator and size of the defect.

The sorting of the semi-finished fur product of winter species is similar to the sorting of furs, but they do not have a division into ridges. The skins of a cat, dog, rabbit are divided by size, color, grade and group of vices.

The skins of spring types of fur semi-finished product are subdivided according to age groups, size, color, nature of the hairline, varieties and groups of defects.

The sorting of the semi-finished product also differs from the sorting of furs. In sheep of these breeds, the age-related variability of the hairline is strongly expressed. The most valuable are the skins of the lambs of the Karakul breed, the less valuable are the skins of the Astra and Lamb breeds. Astrakhan skins are sorted by age, color, size, grades and groups of defects. The variety is determined taking into account the shape and type of curls, their location in the area of \u200b\u200bthe skin, silkiness, shine and density of the hairline. Dyed black astrakhan fur is divided into varieties (purebred into 29 varieties-brands with a letter designation, mestizo - into 18 varieties), into groups (depending on defects) and by size (large, medium, small). The grade of fur coat sheepskin is set depending on the significance and number of defects. There are two subgroups of the main sheepskin defects: those measured linearly (seams, kinks, clipped hair) and those measured by area (holes, bald patches, group clippings, frayed places). Sheepskin fur dressed, sheared, dyed ennobled is divided into two grades and five groups of vices.

Sorting of fur products consists in dividing them by size, grade, groups of defects, colors and ridges (if this is typical for a semi-finished fur product).

Outer fur clothing is divided by size and height. To do this, measure the width of the product with a soft meter at the level of the armhole under the sleeve from the middle of the back to the edge of the left side, putting the product on a mannequin or folding it in half in the center of the back. The result corresponds to the size, but a deviation of no more than 1 cm is possible if the model does not provide large allowances for a loose fit. The height (length) of the product is measured in the middle of the back from the seam of the collar to the edge of the bottom.

The grade of the fur product is set depending on the pubescence, density, shine, silkiness of the hairline. It must correspond to the grade of the semi-finished product from which the product is made. Usually finished products are divided into 2-3 grades. The description of the variety is given in the State Standards for fur products.

When determining the group of defects, defects of the skin tissue and hairline are taken into account. The first group includes products without defects, the second, etc. - products with defects of various sizes in accordance with GOST. Products with defects of furrier and sewing production are returned to the manufacturer for the correction of defects.

The division by ridges and colors is carried out similarly to the fur semi-finished product.

Quality indicators of fur semi-finished product

Products of the fur industry (dressed fur skins, fur clothes, fur hats, collars, fur carpets) are subject to mandatory certification to determine compliance with the indicators established by the standards for each type of skins. When certifying fur products, they check the compliance of fur skins with the requirements of standards for skins, and also carry out the identification of fur products for compliance with the requirements of standards for homogeneous product groups in terms of furriery and sewing work. The certificate is issued for fur products that meet the requirements of the standards for the condition of the hairline and the permissible defects of the hairline and leather tissue.

During certification tests, the following indicators are determined: pH of the water extract; the temperature of welding of the leather tissue; color fastness of the hairline or leather tissue to dry friction (for dyed skins); breaking load; the mass fraction of unbound fatty substances in the skin tissue and in the hair; color fastness.

The first three indicators are determined without fail, the remaining indicators are assigned for testing in cases where the organoleptic assessment of the quality of the hairline or skin tissue is questionable by the expert.

Welding temperature is a quantitative characteristic of the resistance of leather tissue to heat. At a certain temperature for each type of fur semi-finished product (arctic fox - 55 ° C, red fox - 65 ° C, rabbit - 65 ° C, fur sheepskin - 70 ° C, sheepskin coat - 80 ° C), a sharp decrease in the length of the test sample occurs . The indicator characterizes the degree of tanning of the skins. The higher the welding temperature, the better the operational properties of fur skins, but the lower their plasticity.

Requirements for the quality of fur products

The main requirements for the quality of fur products depend on their purpose. There are completely different requirements for naked products made from sheepskin coats than for mink coats. Consumer requirements for fur are determined primarily by its operational properties. Furs and fur must protect the human body from adverse external conditions, have sufficient wear (durability) during operation, retain their properties for a long time, meet the requirements of hygiene, correspond to the strength and energy capabilities of a person, have high aesthetic properties corresponding to the modern fashion trend and have certain properties necessary for furrier-sewing processes.

Fur products are made in accordance with the technical description of the models. Details should be even and symmetrically located. Special attention is given to the selection of skins by shade, hairline height, its luster, the thickness of the leather tissue, which should be the same in one product. The lining should be in harmony with the fur top of the product, the threads with which the seams are made should match the color of the leather fabric. It is unacceptable to capture hair in a seam, gaps and notches. The hairline must be combed, cleaned of dust, grease, etc. The presence of unbound dye on the hairline and leather fabric of a dyed semi-finished product is not allowed. The leather fabric of the product should be soft and plastic, should not "rattle".

Main defects of the fur semi-finished product are: brokenness of the awn (broken off and frayed ends of the guides and guard hairs); wiped places; snags of the hairline (in sheared skins); snatches of skin tissue; fuse of the hair (areas with crimped tips of the guard hairs); kinks (damage to the skin tissue due to rupture of the epidermis and papillary layer); stitching (thinning of areas of the skin tissue up to the exposure of the bulbs); penetrating hair (hair loss as a result of cutting the hair follicle during skinning; hair flow (hair loss due to

weakening the connection of the hair with the skin tissue); hair color (fading during operation and storage); seams (due to the removal of defects).

Defects of fur products: mismatch of longitudinal and transverse seams; poor selection of skins according to the quality of the hairline; incorrect placement of skins on the details of the cut; absence smooth transition by color from one skin to another; poor selection of inserts on skins; heterogeneity of skins in size and thickness of leather tissue; seams that stand out noticeably from the side of the hairline; tightening the hair into the seams; skipping stitches; curvature of the seams; distortion of parts; hair pollution, etc.

Marking of fur products must contain the following information: name of the manufacturer; the name of the product and the type of fur from which it is made; size; style; grade; a group of vices; price; GOST number; release date. Outerwear is marked with a cardboard label attached to the loop of the product and sewn into the seam of the left side of the textile tape indicating the necessary information about the product. Fur collars are marked with a stamp on the leather fabric indicating all the data about the product and its area. For collars made of valuable types of furs, cardboard labels with all the details are provided. Hats are also marked with a cardboard label with full information, a trademark applied in the center of the lining and a textile tape sewn into the seam of the crown indicating the necessary data. The cardboard label of all products must be sealed.

The entire diverse range of fur products is divided into the following groups: according to the intended purpose - for fur clothes, fur part of clothes, hats, fur women's hats, fur haberdashery and other products; by gender and age - for men's, women's, children's products; by type - for coats, jackets, jackets, vests, collars, stoles, capes, muffs, etc.

Each type of product can be divided into styles, sizes and heights. The size and height of fur products are determined in the same way as in clothing.

Fur clothing includes women's, men's and children's clothing.

Fur clothing for adults is produced from 44 to 60 sizes and, depending on the type of product, from three to five heights. Children's fur clothes, depending on the age of the children, are produced from 32 to 42 sizes of two heights for children school age and from 24 to 30 size one height for children preschool age.

Women's fur clothing includes coats, short coats and jackets. These products differ in length, which is determined from the collar sewing line to the edge of the hem. Coat length 112-120 cm, short coat - 80-100 cm and jacket - 65-67 cm.

By style, coats, short coats and jackets are divided into single-breasted and double-breasted, straight, semi-adjacent and adjacent at the waist, with or without a belt. The variety of styles is increased by changing the shape of the sleeve and collar.

The diversity of the assortment is also achieved by using two types of semi-finished product for one product, for example, a coat is made from astrakhan fur, and a collar and cuffs are made from mink.

Women's fur clothing is sewn from the following main types of semi-finished products: fur sheepskin, astrakhan fur, lambskin, smushka, goat, rabbit of various imitations, mink, muskrat, column, squirrel, mole, nutria, ground squirrel, etc.

When characterizing fur clothing, one should take into account its dog, which can be different depending on the semi-finished product used.

The weight of women's clothing is almost 2 times lighter than that of men's.

Men's fur clothing includes jackets and vests.

Fur jackets are stable in their style. They are usually sewn double-breasted, with four buttons and loops on the right and left sides, a strap is sewn on the back, which consists of two halves connected by one or two buttons. The sleeve is double-seam, the collar is straight turn-down and often from other fur. Jackets can have fur and textile lining. For their manufacture, dyed and sheared sheepskin, foal, calf, dog skins are used.

Vests are often made with a textile top on a fur lining. Naked vests are sewn mainly from sheepskin. Most often, vests are made from parts of skins, a furrier flap, and much less often from whole skins.

In the assortment of children's fur clothes, the first place is occupied by a coat; significantly fewer jackets for boys are produced.

For the manufacture of children's clothing, fur sheepskin, goat, lambskin and other, mostly cheap types of semi-finished products are used.

The fur part of the clothes is a collar, cuffs, fur lining. Collars occupy the largest share among these products.

Collars are divided into men's, women's and children's. Men's and women's collars are produced from 44 to 60 sizes, and children's from 20 to 44. The size is determined by the length of the collar along the sewing line.

The most established styles of collars are straight, shawl and columbino. The assortment of women's and children's collars is more diverse. Men's collars are more often produced in a straight style and less often in a shawl.

Depending on the method of processing the semi-finished product, the collars are divided into natural - H, dyed - K, plucked or epilated - Shch, sheared - C, with a special treatment of the hairline - O.

For women's and children's collars, a wider range of semi-finished products is used than for men's collars.

Cuffs are made from the same types of semi-finished products as the collar. They are sold with a collar.

The fur lining is sewn from the skins of a polecat, goat, fox darlings, etc. The fur lining is used for winter coats made of fabrics.

Fur hats by gender and age are divided into men's sizes from 54 to 63, for women - from 54 to 61, for teenagers from 54 to 58 and for children from 51 to 56. The size is determined by the circumference along the inner side of the lower bead of the cap in centimeters.

According to the material of the top, hats are all-fur and combined, according to styles - gogol, earflaps "Molodezhnaya", "Leningradskaya", "Sportivnaya", "Moskovskaya", etc. (Fig. 61). The style is determined by the shape of the cap cap and design features. The styles of men's and children's hats are more stable than women's.

Rice. 61. Styles of headwear: 1 - earflaps with a leather top; 2 - all-fur earflaps, 3 - "Olympic"; 4 - all-fur hat (gogol); 5 - "Moscow"; 6 - boyar; 7 - "Sports".

For men's hats they use the skins of a rabbit, otter, muskrat, nutria, astrakhan fur, astrakhan, lambskin, fur sheepskin, marmot, fawn, etc. mostly now they sew from sheepskin fur and rabbit.

Capes, semi-pelerines, stoles, gorgets belong to fur women's attire. Only tubular gorgets are made without lining, all other products are lined. For these products, the most valuable skins are used (sable, mink, silver-black fox).

Capes are sleeveless capes. In their manufacture, complex cutting methods are used; They may be various styles- long, short, wide, narrow, they are sewn only from valuable types of semi-finished products, lined.

Half capes are shaped like a lined shawl collar.

Stoles - a fur strip like a scarf up to 2.5 m long and up to 50 cm wide. Tails of skins are sewn to the ends of the stole for decoration. Stoles are made from skins of sable, marten, mink, ermine.

Gorgets are used instead of fur collars. They look like whole skins with heads, tails and paws. Gorgets are produced round (from uncut skins with heads) or flat on a silk lining.

Fur haberdashery includes mittens and gloves. Mittens are made from sheepskin, webbing, lambskin; the top of the mittens is covered with cotton fabric or leather.

Gloves are made from the same fur as the mittens; only leather is used on the top.

Fur products are divided according to their functional purpose into the following groups:

Outer fur clothing;

Fur details for clothes with uppers made of leather, fabrics;

Fur women's garments;

Chapter 6

Fur products

Fur hats;

Fur haberdashery;

Fur shoes;

Household fur products;

Plates and furs.

According to the gender and age characteristics of consumers, individual groups of goods are divided into subgroups: - female;

Men's;
- children's.

In subgroups, goods are classified by type, style, size.

Outer fur clothing

Range women's fur outerwear consists and; mantle (greater smell of the floor, wide armholes and no fasteners), coat (112-120 cm), short coat (80-100 cm) and jacket! (65-75 cm), jackets. Types of outer fur clothing vary in length, which varies depending on fashion. Fur outerwear for women is made in nine sizes (from 8! to 120) and five heights.

Products are produced in a variety of styles, they can be single-breasted, double-breasted, semi-adjacent, adjacent, straight, flared from the waist, from the top, etc. The design of outerwear does not depend on the style, and the cut consists of a camp (back, floors, Bottom part- hem), collar, two sleeves. The sleeves are cut from the upper and lower halves, the upper one has a shoulder and an armhole. For women's outerwear, the following semi-finished products are used: broadtail, broadtail, goat, calf, cat, dog, rabbit of various imitations, lambskin, moire, ov-, sheared dyed fur coat, sable, mink, squirrel, seal, muskrat, polecat, possum, marmot, fox, white and blue fox, etc. Plucked skins of mink, muskrat, beaver, and also dyed in bright colors fur semi-finished product. In one product, a combination of different types of fur is possible: mink

and chinchilla, mink and sable, broadtail and arctic fox, muskrat and pecan (North American marten), etc.

Modern models of fur outerwear should have lightness, good drape. Depending on the style and fashion, the skins in the products are arranged in various ways. All sheared and epilated skins are positioned so that the hairline goes from the bottom up and you can make a "comb" of the hair. Long-haired types of furs are selected in such a way that the hair is directed from top to bottom. Often the skins are arranged in a transverse direction, herringbone or screw.

Simple and complex cutting methods are used. Products of simple cutting methods are subsequently easily restored, and when dissolving or jointing, this is almost impossible to do. The shearing of a semi-finished fur product is widely used, imitating complex cutting methods. The main trends in modeling are the combination of fur with textile materials, the use of semi-finished products with double-sided finishing, obtaining the effect of a knitted woolen texture in a fur product, which is achieved using non-traditional technologies that involve cutting skins into narrow strips and making fur "knitwear" from this "yarn".

Numerous actions by animal rights activists led to the emergence of a fashion for coats made of fabric or leather lined with valuable furs.

Range outerwear men's fur is less diverse. The most common are coats, short coats, jackets and jackets made of fur sheepskin, dog skins, foal, calf, lambs, seals. Vests are made of sheared and dyed sheepskin, goat, lambskin, marmot with fabric or leather tops. Men's outerwear is made in nine sizes (from 88 to 120) and six heights. Recently, men's coats, short coats made of mink skins have become popular.

Range children's outerwear includes coats, jackets, jackets, the styles of which depend on the age group. Children's fur clothes are made from cheap

Fur products

types of furs and semi-finished fur products with a small mass and high heat-shielding properties (goat, rabbit, webbing, "fur sheepskin").

Clothing is designed for three age groups: nursery and preschool, junior school, senior school.

Products of the first group for boys and girls are almost the same in style. Basically, they sew a coat of a straight or extended silhouette from top to bottom. For girls, semi-finished products of light colors are used, for boys - darker ones. Coats for girls of school age are produced in straight, semi-adjacent and extended silhouettes, single-breasted or double-breasted, with set-in sleeves, raglan sleeves, with combined yoke sleeves, with collars of various styles - stand-up, round, shawl, in the form of a hood, scarf, etc. .

Outer fur clothes for children of nursery and preschool age groups are produced in three sizes (48, 52.56); for girls and boys of the primary school age group - four sizes (60, 64, 68, 72) and two heights; for girls and boys of the senior school group - three sizes (76, 80, 84) and two heights.

Outer fur clothing for women, men and children is produced in accordance with GOST 8765-93 "Fur and combined clothing. General specifications" and GOST 28503-90 "Clothes with fur lining. General specifications".

Fur part of clothing

The fur part of the clothing is collars, cuffs, edging, fur lining. Fur collars are divided by sex and age groups of consumers, styles, sizes, colors, grades and groups of defects. The styles of the collars are very diverse and depend on the fashion (shawl, straight, stand). For women's collars, semi-finished fur products of almost all types are used, "for men's - the skins of beaver, astrakhan fur, mink, seal, foal, astray, rabbit, sheared dyed sheepskin, etc. Children's collars are made from cheap types of fur

semi-finished fur products - rabbit, squirrel, lambskin, sheared dyed sheepskin. The edging for the hoods of jackets is made from long-haired types of furs - arctic fox, fox, raccoon, etc.

Fur lining for winter coats and jackets is made from fur and fur coat sheepskin, rabbit, astrakhan paws, fox paws and darlings, furrier patch.

Women's fur garments

The assortment of this product group is intended exclusively for women and consists of drapes, semi-pelerines, stoles, scarves, kerchiefs, flat and tubular gorgets.

Capes are sleeveless capes made from valuable types of fur - mink, squirrel, sable, marten, column, ermine, silver-black fox, arctic fox, muskrat, broadtail, chinchilla, etc. When sewing, complex cutting methods are used - perekidka, embroidery, dissolution. Tails from skins are often sewn along the lower edge of capes. The half cape resembles a large detachable collar from valuable types of furs and furs.

Recently popular stoles are wide (30-50 cm) and long (200-250 cm) scarves sewn from the skins of sable, marten, mink, chinchilla, ermine, squirrel, broadtail lined with silk. It is customary to throw stoles over the shoulders. To decorate these products, braid, rhinestones, cords, appliqués made of silk, leather, lace frills are used. Tails from skins are often sewn on the ends of the stoles. Interesting models of stoles made of fur "knitwear", knitted from strips of mink, rabbit fur using a special technology.

Gorgets are made round from uncut skins with the head, legs and tail of an animal, or flat in a flattened form on a silk lining. Flat gorgets are sewn in loose, and they have a somewhat rounded shape. The range of semi-finished fur products is small - fox, arctic fox, marten, sable. The fox skins are sometimes embroidered in length, as a result of which they become longer, and the quality of the hairline does not decrease.

Fur products

Women's fur garments are produced in accordance with GOST 10151-75 "Women's fur garments. General specifications".

Fur hats

The range of fur hats is quite large. They produce men's, women's and children's hats. The size is determined by the circumference along the inner side of the lower side. Headwear sizes for men - from 54 to 63; for women - from 54 to 62; for teenagers - from 54 to 58; for children - from 49 to 55. There are full-fur and combined hats - with a top made of fabric or leather. The main parts of fur hats are as follows: cap (fur, leather, fabric), crown (fabric lining), flooring on the crown (sheet cotton wool, modern non-woven materials). "

The styles of women's hats change quite often in accordance with fashion (hat with fields, "fantasy", current, beret, boyarka, bonnet, ball, etc.). For them, the skins of arctic fox, fox, sable, marten, nutria, ermine, otter, rabbit, squirrel, astrakhan fur, broadtail, seal, sheepskin, etc. are used. Modern fashion for fur hats, she prefers soft forms that easily drape and transform on the head. Models of traditional classical styles are distinguished by lightness, elegance, small volume, and functionality. New design techniques are used to create volume through structural seams and darts instead of traditional molding. New carcass cushioning materials of a mesh structure are used, which give traditional models (tok, boyarka, kubanka, turban) the necessary dimensional stability, lightness and elegance.

The range of men's hats is more stable (boyarka, Moscow, gogol, earflaps, papakha, Kubanka, sports, Olympic, Leningrad). Men's hats are made from short-haired types of semi-finished fur products: astrakhan, astrakhan, lambskin, sea animal skins, calf, foal, rabbit, sheepskin, as well as mink and sable.

Fur hats must be produced in accordance with GOST 10325-79 "Fur hats. General specifications".

Fur haberdashery

This product group includes the following types of products: gloves and mittens with fur lining, muffs, bags made of fur or with fur details, small fur ornaments - brooches, hair clips, etc. For the manufacture of haberdashery, a furrier flap of valuable types of furs is used. , defective rabbit skins, lambs, straps, minks.

Household fur products

At present, this product group is becoming more and more significant, as fur and fur products for interior decoration have become fashionable. Carpets are made from the skins of large animals - bear, leopard, zebra.

Exclusive blankets and bedspreads are made from mink, lynx, sable skins on a silk lining. Covers for furniture, pillows are sewn from fur sheepskin.

Sheepskin coats

Products made from sheepskin coats without lining with leather fabric outside are called naked (sheepskin coats). These products have always been traditional for Russia and are common in rural areas. The range of sheepskin and fur products has expanded in the last 30 years through the use of fur velor and fur sheepskin with a film coating. Outer fur clothing made from these materials with modern finishes and called sheepskin coats in everyday life has become very popular with consumers due to its high heat-shielding properties, wear resistance, relatively low cost and a huge variety of models. Modern technologies fur dyeing

Chapter 6

Fur products

semi-finished products allow you to give the skins spectacular, bright shades, which also have resistance to friction and the action of light. Products made of fur velor are often trimmed with fur of long-haired Mongolian sheepskin, arctic fox, fox, mink, leather decoration is used, original accessories are used. Outerwear made of fur velor and fur sheepskin with a film coating, currently sold on the Russian market, is mainly imported (Turkey, Italy, Spain, China), although domestic brands have appeared in recent years: "Zetta" (g . Moscow), "Melita" (Kazan), "Joy" (Samara), "Kalinka" (Kirov), "Marital" (Yoshkar-Ola).

Sheepskin coats are divided according to the age and sex of consumers: for men, women and children; by type: for sheepskin coats, short fur coats, jackets, coats, short coats, jackets, vests; as well as in size.

Coats, short coats and jackets for men are produced in nine sizes (from 88 to 120), six heights.

Women's coats and short coats are also produced in nine sizes (from 88 to 120), five heights.

Outerwear from sheepskin coats and fur velor for boys and girls, it is produced in nine sizes (from 60 to 92), two heights.

Products from fur coat sheepskin and fur velor must be made in accordance with GOST 5710-85 "Clothes from sheepskin coat and fur velor. General specifications".

Similar information.