First of all, you need to rip the lining from the fur.
Gently use a ripper or razor to open the seam that connects the fur to the fabric. Be extremely careful, do not pull, otherwise holes cannot be avoided.
On my silver fox collar, there were damages in the upper part and it was not possible to sew them up, so I carefully cut them off. The result was 2 symmetrical parts.
Since the white hairs of the silver fox turned slightly yellow, and cleaning using known methods did not work, I decided to wash it.
Wash it so that detergent did not hit the core. I "washed" my collar regular shampoo with the addition of a few drops of avocado oil (for shine). When the shampoo was washed out of the hairline, rinsed the whole skin. Do not try to wring out, the wet skin is torn instantly.
To give the future collar the desired shape, it is necessary to nail it with fur down onto the board strictly according to the drawn pattern. Take the smallest carnations and nail the fur at a distance of 1-3 cm from each other.
My skin was hard after water procedures, so I decided to "feed" her. For this one egg yolk mixed with a spoonful of glycerin (sold in a pharmacy for 8 rubles per 25 ml) and applied to the mezra with a brush for coloring hair. I had to wait another 2 days for it to dry completely. As a result, the skin became more elastic, full and soft. It is said that this procedure also strengthens the hairs.
If, nevertheless, the strength of your skin causes you great doubts, put it on glue. For this, glue "Moment" or rubber is suitable. Lubricate the skin with glue and put on top either gauze, or chintz, or non-woven material, which is used in ordinary sewing for lining. You can strengthen the skin not entirely, but only thin torn places.
I carefully combed out the dried fur with a metal brush (after all, I have a long-haired cat).
Now you need to sew the skins together along the central part. If you didn’t cut anything, then skip this step with a clear conscience.
Next, we need to sew a lining to the fur - a collar. Note that I sewed a detachable universal collar. If you are sewing a collar for a coat, then the collar will be the fabric from which the entire product is sewn. We sew a braid along the edges of the collar. Further, it will be easier to sew a collar to it.
I chose the usual bias trim and stitched it on the machine, turned it off and sewed it to the mezdra by hand.
For the collar, I took a ready-made quilted fabric. The price is 120 rubles per meter. We cut out a collar from it with a seam allowance of 1-1.5 cm. Then manually sew the lining to the braid with a hidden seam.
If you are sewing a collar and collar made of fur with a thin and medium core, then the work order will be as follows:
· The cut of the collar is strengthened with a thin cotton fabric (calico, calico, chintz, etc.). The fabric is cut out along the contours 1 cm more than the collar in order to bend - "side" the edges.
Having put the fabric on the collar, it is first fastened onto the mezra with oblique basting stitches 1–1.5 cm long. The mezra is not pierced through, but only grabbed. Then the fabric is folded to the side 1 mm less than the collar.
· The fur collar is reinforced with fabric in the same way. Then, for dimensional stability of the collar, a lining from the bead, non-adhesive interlining or other cushioning materials is attached to the collar fabric.
· Having folded the collar and collar with fur inside, fasten them in several places and sew them with a furry seam, fitting the upper collar.
· Then turn out.
Fur collar, coat collar.
· The collar is reinforced with a gasket (fastened or glued) exactly according to the pattern.
Batting or synthetic winterizer is applied to the lining.
· The collar is "covered" with a fur collar, the fur is folded over and hemmed with inconspicuous stitches. If the collar is not from the fabric of the coat, it is desirable that it be the same color as the fur.
Three detachable collar options:
· Sew a cleanly embroidered collar to the neck with blind stitches.
Separately sew a planochka from the lining, break through the loops. Turn collar
Hello needlewomen. The detachable fur collar has gained popularity again. You can make it yourself, see the step-by-step instructions.
Fashion addition
With your own hands, you can sew a faux fur collar, which will perfectly complement outerwear.
You will need:
- Faux fur, lining fabric, width 140 cm, length 55 cm;
- Interlining;
- Hook with eyelet.
How to sew a new little thing is shown below.
cutting
Advice: when you baste and grind, the fur villi that come out, fill them with a needle inside.
- You can cut the fur with a circular knife, scalpel or razor blade.
- Before sewing, connect the parts with pins with plastic heads, placing them
- perpendicular, not along the seam line, to prevent misalignment of the pieces to be sewn.
- Carefully pull out the villi that have fallen into the seam with a needle to the front side of the fur.
Step by step instructions in pictures
- Open.
- Sweeping.
- Fastening details.
- Sewing
- Basting and sewing by hand cut after turn inside out.
- Crochet sewing.
What can I wear with a detachable collar
Can be worn over a coat. On an A-style coat, it is better to wear a collar with a short or moderate pile. A long, voluminous collar will suit a business-style coat.
Any dress with a fur accessory will become even more spectacular. The detachable fluffy piece can even be worn with a cocktail dress.
Detachable shawl collar
Look how beautiful it looks with a scarf! In an instant, you will create an amazing image, and most importantly, you will be very comfortable.
One of the most relevant accessories of the winter season is a removable fur collar. Moreover, it can be sewn from faux fur of the most different colors and textures, and wear not only with outerwear!
For everyday ensembles, a lined faux fur collar is ideal - it will not be difficult to sew it with your own hands with our master class.
Evening or Cocktail Dress it is better to decorate, albeit small, but with a collar made of natural fur.
Prefer long or short pile fur, plain or "predatory" lining - depends on your style and image.
YOU WILL NEED:
✽ Faux fur (40x20 cm),
✽ Lining fabric (40x20 cm),
✽ Tape 60 cm long,
✽ Paper pattern,
✽ Ruler,
✽ Pencil,
✽ Marker,
✽ Scissors,
✽ Cutter,
✽ Tailor's pins,
✽ Needle and thread for sewing
WHEN SEWING A DETACHABLE COLLAR, PAY PROPER ATTENTION TO THE WORKING OF THE COLLAR WITH THE LINING.
STEP 1
At a distance of 9 cm below the top line of the collar, draw a parallel line. Set aside 2.5 cm from the line of the middle of the front along the bottom edge and connect this point with the end of the dotted line.
Transfer the contours of the pattern to the wrong side of the fur, cut out. At the same time, cut only the woven base, without affecting the pile!
Open the lining and stitch it to the fur. Before that, pin ribbon ties to the upper corners. Attention: wrap the villi on the allowances inward.
We sew on our own turn-down collar from fur In this article we will look at how easy and simple it is to sew a beautiful turn-down collar made of fur. The perfect complement to an expensive jacket with a white shirt or beautiful decoration for a coat or blouse. However, the creation options stylish look with a fur collar is a separate topic, and now the master class itself: 1. Preparing a pattern A pattern in several parts is attached to the application. It must be printed so that each figure is printed on a separate A4 sheet. Next, cut and glue all the parts into one pattern. We cut out the finished pattern on an unnecessary piece of fabric and try it on ourselves. We check that the pattern fits in size, if necessary, adjust the pattern, adjusting it to your liking. So, for example, you can lengthen the collar a little down or widen at the bottom. We redraw the new pattern on new paper. Having received the final version of the pattern, 2. We select and calculate the amount of fur. We will need two sable skins or two marten skins with an average length from the ears (excluding the tail) of 30-40 cm (it can be longer, but not shorter than 30 cm). 3. We make the editing of the skins Turn the skins inside out and cut with a blade or a furrier's knife along the tummy along the entire skin from top to bottom. Cut off the tail, paws and muzzle. We correct our skins as in the article: https://vk.com/topic-63526505_29852440 We make a solution, blot the skins and leave them to soak. At this time, we take a board for editing such that our entire collar pattern fits on it. We circle our paper pattern along the contour on the board. In the process of stretching the skin, we immediately make the slope of the skin. That is, at the first skin we pull the right side more strongly, and at the second skin - the left side. When we nail the stretched skins onto the board, we immediately try to arrange them as much as possible along the contour of the pattern so that the skin goes in a semicircle, and only the edges of the skin come out behind the pattern (we will cut them evenly later). From the inside of the collar on the skin, we form folds, which we also fix with carnations or brackets, in the future these folds will become our tuck-tucks. Let the skins dry overnight. 4. Cut out and sew together When the skins are dry, first we mark our darts-tucks on the skins, and then we remove the skins from the board. Next, we sew up the tucks, and then we cut out two parts of the collar from the skins and sew them with one seam in the middle. It turns out that we let two backs into sewing, we cut off part of the tummies, and the middle seam of the collar is connected along the cut line of the muzzle. (I note that this is only one of the many options for cutting and arranging the skins, in the future we will consider many others.) 5. Sew on the lining, ribbons and brooches Sew on an edging tape around our fur collar (more about the tape here.
We sew a collar.
The stitched cut of the collar, no matter how well cut and correctly connected, always has a somewhat irregular shape. To level the surface of the collar and get the exact shape of the collar, it must be "tightened" according to the pattern on the wooden shield.
If the fur is expensive, then before straightening it is necessary to sew a braid along the collar (ridge) in order to 1) not spoil the fur with nails; 2) do not cut later when trimming according to the finishing pattern, the ridge - the best part of the skin. Further, when finishing the collar, the braid is either torn off or left for further use when sewing the collar.
The next step is moisturizing (see Moisturizing and soaking). Then, with chalk on the shield, we outline the contour of the pattern with a small allowance along the entire contour (0.5 - 1 cm), the so-called "working" pattern. On it we lay the hide of the collar that has been moistened and passed the laying. Usually hairline down. But, if the fur is expensive and beautiful, so as not to wrinkle it once again- Lay hair up. We fix the collar on the shield with carnations, trying to align exactly with the pattern. If excesses form in some places, then when nailing the carnations, you should make a fit ("wrinkle"), and if there is a shortage, stretch it to the desired size. The distance between the pegs is 0.5 - 1 cm. Having stuffed the collar, dry it for at least a day. Then we remove the dried-up collar from the board and precisely trim and cut the collar according to the finishing (control) pattern. At the same time, we try to trim as little as possible along the ridge.
If the hide was stuffed with hair down, then removing it from the board, the hair must be carefully “smoothed out”, that is, given a natural direction - first we comb it with a metal comb, then we smooth it over the hair with a wet brush and, when it is completely dry, we comb it again. Mink skins are combed and smoothed against the hair so that the fur becomes fluffy and light again.
Our collar cut is fully finished and finished. Depending on the type of fur and the type of "collar" (fur, coat fabric or lining), fur collars are processed differently. I give only the basics, but for the rest - there is no limit to the imagination, including in the technology of sewing a fur collar.
1)Fur collar and collar.
a) On collar from any fur with a thin and medium mezdra (karakul, fox, mink, nutria, etc.) we fasten thin cotton fabric (calico, calico, chintz, etc.) to strengthen it. We cut out the fabric 1 cm more along the contours than the collar, in order to then bend the edges - "sideways". Having put the fabric on the collar, we first fasten it on the mezra with oblique basting stitches 1-1.5 cm long. We do not pierce the mezra through and through, but only grab it. Then we side the fabric 1 mm less than the collar.
We also fasten the fabric on the fur collar, and then to fabric we attach a gasket from the bead, non-adhesive interlining, etc. (for dimensional stability of the collar)
Having folded the collar and collar with the fur inside, we fasten them in several places and sew them with a furry seam, fitting the upper (larger) collar. The upper collar is usually cut out more than the lower one (collar) by about 1 cm around the entire perimeter. We do not make allowances for the seam, since the furry seam practically does not require them. Then we turn out.
b) On the collar and collar with thick leather fabric (mezdra), the fabric is not fastened, but only an edge is laid along the cuts of the collar so that the edge does not stretch. A lining is fastened to the collar.
c) If the mezra is very thin, weak, and the fur is cheap, then the fabric can simply be glued to the mezra (glue "Moment", "Unicum", rubber, etc. - if only the mezra remains soft together with the glued fabric, and does not become "cardboard"). By no means PVA and the like! In this case, we cut out the fabric exactly according to the pattern of the collar or 0.1 cm less. We do the same when repairing an old collar with a completely crumbling mezra.
2)Fur collar, coat collar.
If the collar is cut exactly according to the pattern (without seam allowances), then we fasten (or glue) the gasket on it flush with the fabric. Or first we strengthen it with a gasket, and then we cut it out together with the gasket exactly according to the pattern. We fasten batting or synthetic winterizer to the gasket. We cover the collar with a fur collar, fold it over and hem it with inconspicuous stitches. In this embodiment, it is desirable to provide hem allowances for the fur collar.
If the collar is not from the fabric of the coat, it is desirable that it be the same color as the fur.
3)Fur collar, lining collar (detachable collar)
I will tell you, if possible, later, when we talk about the manufacture of gorgets and stoles on the lining. Since the technology they have is essentially the same. Also, later, I will try to add pictures.
