For sewing loops with a continuous line, special paws are used. The width and length of the buttonhole are usually set before overcasting, but in principle they can also be changed during processing. Buttonhole stitching can be done both in semi-automatic mode and in automatic mode, it all depends on the type of foot installed.

On the automatic foot, adjust the length of the buttonhole by inserting the button into the holder. When processing a buttonhole with this foot, it will fully match the size of the button, which is very convenient. When using thick buttons, you need to manually increase the length of the loop a little on the typewriter. Each machine adjusts differently, for this, read the user manual that comes with the machine.

The semi-automatic foot has markings on the left side for adjusting the buttonhole length. Before sewing on the buttonhole, mark the length of the buttonhole on the product and move the sliding gate, matching the bottom mark on it with the beginning of the buttonhole on the product. Keep the ends of the threads on the left side of the presser foot while overcasting.

These loops are worked in a zigzag and secured in the corners with long stitches. You can process "built-in" loops in 4 or 2 stages, it all depends on the functions of the sewing machine. In the second case, a passage is made with the machine in one direction, then reinforcement stitches are made, then a passage in the opposite direction and again transverse reinforcement stitches are made. Overcasting in 4 steps is more versatile, since it is possible to adjust the stitch frequency during the process of sewing a buttonhole.

1. Place the buttonhole line in the center of the foot, and its beginning is directly under the needle. Lower the presser foot and start sewing.
   
2. Mark slowly. Position the loop mark slightly to the left of the center line. When finished, raise the needle, move the fabric slightly to the left, lower the needle and raise the presser foot.
   
3. Rotate the fabric 180°. After moving the needle to the right, make a stitch and raise the needle. Sew 6 wide securing stitches. Finish the stitch at the needle position on the left.

There is a very simple way by which you will learn how to sew buttonholes on a sewing machine without a special function and a buttonhole foot. In this master class, we will talk about this.

Most often, the loops on the fastener of the product are processed at the last moment, when the whole product is almost ready. It is important to remember that the location of the loops must be duplicated, for example, using adhesive dublerin. Dublerin is desirable to choose a non-contrasting color relative to the color of the fabric of the product.

You will need:

Tailor's pins for medium fabrics;

Tailor's pins for thin fabrics;

Small scissors;

Ruler;

Disappearing fine line fabric marker.

Step 1. Markup

Determine the width of future loops. The loop is usually made a few millimeters longer than the diameter of the button.

Button diameter - 2.7 cm, selected buttonhole width - 3.0 cm.

Mark the position of all loops in place of the future fastener. Using a washable marker, draw a loop frame 3.0 cm long and about 0.5 cm wide.

If you don't have a fine marker, you can mark the frame with marker stitches.

Sweep or chop the layers of fabric in the fastener area with tailor's pins.

Pins for thin fabrics are placed on the buttonhole frame, pricking them along the short sides, this will provide convenience and accuracy when processing the buttonhole frame on the sewing machine.

Step 2 Frame

This operation is performed on the sewing machine.

Settings: straight line, stitch length 1.5 mm.

According to the markup, stitch the frame with a line with a short stitch: the length of the line along the long sides of the loop frame is limited by pins, in the area of ​​​​the short sides of the loop frame it is better to count the number of stitches, it should be the same on all short sides of all loops, so the accuracy of the loops will be maximized.

Loop frame. The pins located on the short sides of the loop frame should NOT be removed at this stage.

Step 3. Long sides of the buttonhole

At this stage, the long sides of the loop are processed with a tight zigzag.

Settings: zigzag stitch, stitch length ~2.5 mm, zigzag density ~0.4 mm.

The zigzag must be laid along the long side of the buttonhole so that the stitches lie on both sides of the lined stitch that forms the frame of the buttonhole. Guidelines for length - pins.

Step 4. Short sides of the buttonhole

At this stage, the loop frame closes - the short sides are processed with a tight zigzag.

Settings: zigzag stitch, stitch length ~6.0 mm, minimum zigzag density ~0.2 mm.

On a test piece, it is better to preselect the stitch length for sewing a short buttonhole edge. The stitch should cover the width of the buttonhole. The machine foot is located exactly in the center of the buttonhole, and the short side is clearly under the needle.

To close the buttonhole in width, you need to make about 10 stitches back and forth, performing dot bartacks at the beginning and at the end of the operation.

The buttonhole frame is overcast, all pins and markings can be removed.

Iron the loop area.

Step 5: Finishing

It remains only to cut the loops. This operation is conveniently performed using small and sharp scissors. It is very important not to touch the zigzag threads when cutting.

Carefully trim the excess threads inside the loop, cutting out their excess.

How easy and simple to sew a button on a leg

In order to make it more convenient to sew on a button, forming a small “leg”, you can use a sewing machine needle: place the thick part of the needle under the button, and prick the sharp part into the fabric.

By education, Daria is a PR and economist, but a few years ago she devoted herself entirely to her favorite business - sewing.

She learned to sew from magazines, books and using the Internet, she also has sewing courses in her arsenal, but Daria considers herself self-taught. She loves to study specialized literature on sewing from different years and countries, and then apply the acquired knowledge in practice.

At the end of 2017, Daria became the winner of the holiday competition from the site.

She maintains her Instagram page and group

Sewing buttonholes for clothes can be made by hand, but fast and accurate buttonholes can only be made on a sewing machine that comes with a special foot.
The buttonhole on the sewing machine can be sewn in automatic, semi-automatic and manual modes.
Details about the features of buttonhole sewing on a sewing machine. What is the difference between automatic looping and semi-automatic mode. With which buttonhole mode is it better to buy a sewing machine, etc.

1. Methods for making a loop on a typewriter

The method of making a buttonhole on a typewriter depends on the class of the sewing machine and its technical capabilities. But the type of buttonhole performed by household sewing machines is practically the same for everyone - a flat straight buttonhole based on a zigzag stitch. And only electronic computerized machines, as well as household embroidery machines, have the ability to make a buttonhole for clothes with an eye, and several types and any size.

In the sewing industry, special machines are used for making buttonholes, they are called buttonhole machines. For example, a class 25 buttonhole machine is used only for making straight buttonholes, cutting a hole in the fabric. But we are interested in how to make buttonholes on a household sewing machine, the sequence of buttonhole buttonholes in semi-automatic and manual modes, since in automatic mode the buttonhole is performed without the participation of a seamstress.

Depending on the class of the sewing machine, the process of making a buttonhole can be automatic (automatic buttonhole), semi-automatic and manual. In all cases, a special buttonhole foot is used, except for manual mode. In manual mode, a foot is used to perform a zigzag stitch (Seagull sewing machine, etc.)

Many modern household sewing machines perform buttonholes in automatic mode. To do this, just install a special foot, approximately the same as in the top photo. In order not to control the length of the buttonhole in the foot, you need to install a button and do not forget to push the vertical lever for switching the machine's stroke down to the stop.

The paws designed for basting a buttonhole in the athematic mode allow you not to mark the size of the buttonhole on the fabric, the button fixed in the foot serves as a guide for the size of the buttonhole. The vertical lever, in the process of making a buttonhole, automatically switches the movement of the machine in the opposite direction, so do not forget to pull it out. It is located at the top of the front cover and is only used for the buttonhole operation. It is better not to push it unless necessary.
If you have a sewing machine manual, see the section on how to sew buttonholes, there should be detailed and visual instructions.

It is not necessary to install a button in the foot exactly the one that you will sew on this garment. After all, it can be oval or square, have a leg, and even if it is inserted into the foot, it will not stay in it and jump out. You just need to pick up a flat button about the same diameter as the buttonhole and place it in the foot.

Actually, the process of making a sewing loop machine is very simple. Put the fabric under the foot, press the pedal of the machine, and it will automatically move in both directions, while performing all the necessary backtacks and switching. After finishing work, the sewing machine will stop itself, ready to start the next loop. Automatically sewing a buttonhole with a button pattern set makes it very easy to work, but requires some skill, since there are a number of features.
For some sewing machines, the reverse zigzag stitch frequency is different from the forward zigzag stitch frequency. Therefore, an additional "fine" adjustment of this operation is provided, when the zigzag frequency in the opposite direction is separately adjusted. However, not all sewing machine models are equipped with this function, and therefore the thread density on each side of the buttonhole may differ.

On our website there is an instruction for a Brother sewing machine. It contains a description of how to adjust the zigzag loop frequency in automatic mode.
Remember to adjust the presser foot pressure on the fabric as well. In many cases, the presser foot pressure should be relieved, especially if the buttonhole will be welted on a blouse made from lightweight fabrics such as chiffon. If you do not adjust the presser foot pressure, then the fabric under the foot will “catch”, shrink, and instead of a loop, a ball of thread will turn out.
Experienced seamstresses "insure" the movement of the fabric by pulling it with their hands, but we do not recommend you to do this, as well as the manufacturer. If the fabric is pulled by hand, the sewing machine may be seriously damaged. It is better to make a few test samples of buttonholes, adjust the thread tension, presser foot pressure, select the optimal buttonhole size, etc. And only after that proceed to "punch" the loops on the finished product.

semi-automatic buttonhole almost the same as the buttonhole process in automatic mode. The only and significant difference is that you have to control this process. With this method of performing a loop, you need to turn on each of the 4 consecutive operations separately by manually switching modes. To do this, on the front panel of the sewing machine, a knob for switching the looping modes is installed.

Suppose you set the sewing machine to the buttonhole operation, lower the presser foot onto the fabric, and start sewing the buttonhole. The first cycle can be started with any operation, including cross bartacking. In our example, a small zigzag stitch will be laid first, along the right side of the loop. Before reaching the line marked in advance with chalk, you need to stop the machine and switch, with the needle raised, to the wide transverse bartack mode. Sew a few stitches and switch the handle to sew the buttonhole in the opposite direction, next to the already sewn stitch. The last operation is again a wide bartack, only on the other side of the loop.

In the semi-automatic buttonhole mode, you have to constantly switch the mode of operation of the sewing machine. At first glance, you might think that this is inconvenient. In fact, on the contrary, since the whole process is completely under control and you can always stop the machine, correct or correct the fabric under the foot, increase the distance between the lines, etc.

If you are just going to buy a sewing machine, then we recommend that you stop at this version of the loop. It is this type of sewing loop that the Janome economy class sewing machine has. Based on our own experience, we can recommend buying a sewing machine with this buttonhole method. Even though we have both industrial buttonhole machines and automatic buttonhole machines, everyone uses a regular economy class machine that has this kind of buttonhole.

Video on how to sew buttonholes on a sewing machine in semi-automatic mode.

To sew a buttonhole in manual mode, it is only necessary that the sewing machine sews a zigzag stitch. Performing a loop in manual mode is performed by such machine models as the Chaika sewing machine, Podolsk 142, the Veritas 8014 sewing machine and some modern economy class machines costing less than 5000 rubles.

For loop execution A regular zigzag foot will do. Moreover, such machines do not have another, special foot for a buttonhole. Making buttonholes by hand on a sewing machine is not very convenient, but if there is no other choice, then you can try.
Be sure to mark the buttonhole with chalk or baste this section of fabric with contrasting threads.

Zigzag stitch width and length can be adjusted manually. Set the stitch length in the range from 0.3 to 1 mm, select the thread tension on a prototype, but usually from 1 to 5, that is, less than half. Install the zigzag foot on the machine, as already mentioned, with a wide narrow slot. Set the adjustment knob to the next position. For basting the sides of the buttonhole: stitch width - 0.2 cm.

Cross bartack: maximum width is 0.5 cm. When sewing a cross bartack, remember to set the stitch frequency to "0".

Making a buttonhole on a sewing machine requires a certain amount of experience, and as paradoxical as it sounds, especially when done in automatic mode.
Try making a few "experienced" buttonholes first, preferably with all the padding and lining, repeating the section of the garment where you will be making the buttonholes. You will find that sometimes both sides of the zigzag stitch run so close that it is difficult to cut through the fabric without damaging the stitching threads.
Sometimes, when performing a backward movement, the sewing machine "slips" and clumps of thread form. Sometimes you even have to completely dissolve the loop, which is highly undesirable.
In thick places, the thread may break, loose stitches may appear from below, etc.

Consider these "nuances" and first set the correct thread tension. On thickened places, you can "knock" in advance with the handles of heavy tailor's scissors.
Mark the loop with long lines in chalk so you can see where to stop the car. The foot is not glass, and sometimes you have to stop the machine at random.
See if the two zigzag stitches are too close together. With a certain skill, you can slightly shift the fabric, move the line back, and closer to the bartack, "return" it back.

Start the buttonhole by carefully lowering the needle into the fabric at the very beginning of the buttonhole.
Lower the presser foot and sew 4 or 5 stitches of the first wide bartack. Stitch length to "0".
Then lift the needle out of the fabric and set a smaller zigzag width (as you wish) and a stitch length of 0.5. Now start working the first side of the loop until it reaches the intended border.
After going to the end of the buttonhole mark, lift the needle out of the fabric, set the zigzag width to maximum and the stitch length to 0.
Sew 4-5 stitches to create a second bartack. Stop the machine with the needle in the left position.
Raise the presser foot and, without lifting the needle, turn the fabric and change the sewing direction.
Remove the fabric from the machine and make a slot in the buttonhole with a special expander for cutting the buttonholes, after inserting pins into the edges of the buttonhole. They will be a reliable stop for the spreader blade, and you will not cut the loop more than necessary.

The embroidery machine has endless possibilities, including loops. On it, you can sweep not only ordinary straight sewing loops, but also eye loops. Eye loops of any size, any shape and type, including those with a reinforcing thread, this machine will make easily and accurately.

Modern sewing machines perform many types of stitches, but many of them are never used. But loop execution in automatic or semi-automatic mode - this is a very popular operation. When buying a sewing machine, choose one that has this operation, even if you do not plan to make buttonholes for clothes yet.

For expensive sewing machines, a loop is necessarily provided, and it is done in automatic mode. But you do not have to buy just such a machine to make buttonholes on clothes. Many inexpensive economy-class sewing machines have a semi-automatic buttonhole. Pay attention to this when buying a sewing machine. Sometimes, a small surcharge of 300 - 500 rubles will allow you to buy a sewing machine that performs loops in semi-automatic mode.

The buttonhole sewing machine comes with a special presser foot. But, even if your machine does not have it, you can buy it separately at any sewing machine store. Pay attention to the fastening of the foot. When buying a new accessory foot, take with you any foot from your sewing machine kit.

To avoid damaging the loop when cutting it, use pins. The pins should not be too thick as they can sometimes leave puncture marks. This applies to thin and "delicate" fabrics such as silk. For them, it is desirable to use very thin and sharp pins.

Sewing the simplest products on a sewing machine does not require special knowledge and skills: if you want to sew knitted pants, you will only need to choose the right materials and monitor the evenness of the stitching. But before sewing more complex things - classic trousers or, for example, a regular shirt - you will need to get the hang of making neat loops. We will tell you how to make a buttonhole on in this master class!

Materials and tools:

• Finished part in which you need to make a loop (pants belt or shirt placket)
• Button of the right size
• thread ripper
• tailor's pin
• Automatic buttonhole foot from a Janome typewriter (included in the standard set of “spare parts” for modern machines)

It is also best to stock up on a trial piece of fabric on which you can practice. This fabric should be the same density as you use in sewing the entire product. In addition, the fabric will need to be folded as many times as there are layers in the prepared part (in the placket of the shirt or the waistband of the pants).

How to make a buttonhole on a Janome sewing machine?

1. The special buttonhole foot has a buttonhole. Using the plastic lever protruding from the left side, slightly open the nest and place a button in it. With the same lever, fix the button so that the machine can correctly determine its diameter. You can put in the foot not necessarily the button that you will sew on (and the buttons in the form of a "mushroom" will not be fixed there), but it must be a button of the same diameter as the one that you sew to the product.

2. Attach the buttonhole foot to the sewing machine. The button must be in it until the end of the work. Bring both working threads (top and bottom) under the foot and point to the left.

3. Set the machine to the values ​​shown in the photo. In the line with different seams, select the very first value, under which it says "HN".

4. Set the stitch size to 5 (according to the rules, this value can vary from 4 to 6), and the stitch length to between 0 and 1.

5. From the upper left side of the machine, lower the stopper down to the foot - a metal stick with a plastic tip. Having lowered it down to the stop, move it towards you - then the stopper will rest against the plastic foot limiter. This stopper will stop buttonhole processing when the machine has sewn the entire buttonhole in the round.

6. Important: before making the first loop (and also between loops if you need more than one), turn the handwheel of the machine, located on the right side of the body, one click forward (away from you), and then one click back (towards you). This will set the machine to start making a new buttonhole. Next, place a test piece of fabric under the presser foot and simply press the pedal of the machine. She herself will sew the outlines of the buttonhole, based on the size of the button.

7. Try sewing buttonholes on the draft using different stitch widths (from 4 to 6). Having chosen the most suitable option, proceed to the manufacture of the loop on the prepared part of the product.

8. Place the trouser belt under the foot and sew the outline of the buttonhole in the right place. The machine sews a loop in a circle: first the front narrow crossbar, then the left side, the far crossbar and the right side.

9. Bring the ends of the threads to the wrong side of the product and tie to secure them tightly.

10. It remains only to cut the loop outlined by the machine! It is very easy to do this with the help of a decompressor. But the problem is that this tool is very sharp, which means that it can cut the excess. To prevent the ripper from cutting the loop edging line, limit the loop with a tailor's pin, sticking it in, as shown in the photo.

11. Cut the loop with a ripper towards the pin stopper.

12. Check if your button goes through the made buttonhole. If the hole is still small, cut it with a ripper a little further.

Even a novice seamstress can make a buttonhole on a Janome machine, because the process of edging the buttonhole of the right size is automatic! The main thing - do not forget to lower and press the stopper to the foot before this operation: without this, the machine will make a basic loop of the minimum size, which is unlikely to fit your button.

Buttons can also be sewn on on Tula and Veritas machines. To perform this operation, first of all, you need to prepare the machine. In the Tula machines (see Fig. 70, a) and Veritas (Fig. 70, b), the teeth of the fabric motor are lowered with lever 4, and lever 1 is set to 0. Then the corresponding foot is placed on the machine.

The foot for sewing on buttons has two short horns 5 and 6 (Fig. 71, a).

On the sole of the foot from one horn to another, behind the groove, there is a small thickening 7 (Fig. 71, b), which extends beyond the horns. It is designed to rest against the button rim so that the button does not move during sewing.

Rice. 70. Installing the lever 1 and 4 when sewing on buttons: a - on the Tula machine; b - by car "Veritas"

On sewing machines, you can only sew buttons that have two or four through holes with a distance between them of no more than 4 mm (Fig. 71, c), for example, linen buttons to pillowcases, to baby bras, etc.

It is also necessary to prepare the fabric, marking the places for sewing on buttons on it. A product and a button are placed under the foot, and the two holes of the button should be located between the horns of the foot, as shown in Fig. 71, d. Still not lowering the foot on the button, slowly turning the flywheel towards you with your right hand, lower the needle a little, and adjust the button with your left hand so that, before reaching it, the point of the needle stops between the holes of the button (Fig. 71, e ) - then just lower the foot on the button.

Then slowly turn the lever 2 with the right hand from 0 towards the number 4 until the needle stands against the center of one of the holes - right or left (Fig. 71, e).

After that, again turning the flywheel by hand, they check whether the needle falls into one or the other hole without touching their walls. If the needle, passing through the hole of the button, touches its walls, you need to check whether the needle is thick, whether the holes in the button are correctly located, and whether the button is placed correctly.

Rice. 71. Foot for sewing on buttons and working with it: a - foot (top view); b - the same (view from the sole); c - samples of buttons suitable for sewing on a machine; g - laying various. buttons under the foot; e, fg - the sequence of setting the needle for sewing on buttons; h - view of the sewn button

If the needle passes exactly through the centers of the holes, the button can be sewn on. The number of stitches in this case depends on the thickness of the thread, since the needle must pass freely through the eye of the button (approximately 4-6 stitches are required). In order for the button to be sewn firmly and the thread does not unravel, it is necessary to fasten its end. To do this, the needle must go through the same button hole two or three times. To this end, set lever 2 to 0, and growl 3 to the left, after which they again check if the needle point hits the center of the button eye.

After sewing one button, move the product and put another one, which is sewn when installing the levers for the first button (if the buttons are the same).

If there are four holes in the button (Fig. 71, g), then you must first sew the button through two holes 8 (Fig. 71, h), and then through the second two, and fasten the thread.

After fastening, the ends of the threads should not be tied in knots, but cut off, but thread 9 should not be cut off, which lies obliquely between the first two and second stitched holes.

BUTTON FOOT

The buttonhole foot (Fig. 72, a, b) for the Tula machine has a groove 5 on the sole, along which the swept sides of the loop pass, a through round hole 6 for an additional thread (cord) and a groove 7 for the passage of the needle.

The buttonhole foot (Fig. 72, c, d) for the Veritas machine is more open, the hole 8 for an additional thread is located in the tide 9 of the left horn.

The loops are sewn with a zigzag stitch, the width of which should not exceed 2 mm; the length of the stitch is taken to be the minimum and equal to the thickness of the thread, so that the threads lie close to one another.

Rice. 72. Feet for buttonholes: a and b - for the Tula machine; c and d - for the Veritas machine

Putting a piece of fabric under the foot and lowering the foot, make sure that the needle touches the beginning of the line intended for the buttonhole, then lower the foot and make a few trial stitches. If there are gaps between the threads, then lever 1 should be moved towards 0; if one thread overlaps another, lever 1 is moved from 0 a little closer to the first division.

After adjusting the density of the buttonhole seam, a flap is removed from under the foot and a fabric or product is placed under the foot on which loops need to be made.

The loops are processed in the following sequence: having swept one side of the loop, raise the foot, turn the fabric or product 180 °, lower the foot onto the fabric, make a bartack, baste the second side of the loop, make the second bartack, raise the foot, remove the product and cut the loop. When working on the Tula machine, first the right side of the loop is swept, and on the Veritas machine, first the left side, the rest of the operations are performed in the same order.

Rice. 73. Initial installation of levers for buttonholes: a - in the Tula machine, b - in the Veritas machine

In order to sweep a loop on medium fabrics (linen, satin) on the Tula machine, you need to set lever 2 to number 2, lever 1 is close to 0. How far to the left of 0 you need to put lever 1, you can determine by the thickness of the thread by making on a patch test.

Lever 3 must be turned to the right. On fig. 73, a shows the installation of the control levers on the Tula machine before weaving the first side of the loop.

After sewing the first side of the buttonhole of the desired length, stop the machine, lower the needle (by manually rotating the flywheel) into the fabric, raise the foot and, carefully, so as not to bend the needle, turn the fabric or product on which the buttonhole is sewn 180 °, i.e. so so that the folded side is in front of the foot. After that, the foot is lowered. The needle must be placed in the upper position, since it is possible to move levers 2 and 3 if the machine is not working, only with the needle raised.

Lever 2 is set to number 4 (Fig. 74, a), and lever 3 is moved to the zero position. Bartack with a few stitches.

Raising the needle and placing levers 2 and 3 in their previous position (lever 2 on the number 2, as shown in Fig. 73, a, and lever 3 to the right), sweep the second side of the loop. Having finished it, they make a second bartack (the installation of the levers is the same as for the first bartack, see Fig. 74, a).

After finishing the loop, fasten the thread so that the overcasting does not bloom. To do this, set lever 2 to 0 and make a few stitches.

All other stitches are sewn in the same way.

When the work is finished and the fabric or product is released from under the presser foot, it is necessary to cut the loops along their middle from one bartack to another, being careful not to cut the bartack.

You can use a special knife - a loop cutter (Fig. 75, a, b). They can pierce the fabric and make a slot between the sides of the loop without cutting through the bartack, because the bartack falls into the blunt stop 5 (Fig. 75, b) of the knife. This knife is included with the Tula machine, but you can also buy it separately in stores that sell sewing machines and spare parts for them. The knife consists of a metal part 6, which has a blade 7, with a hook 10 and a wooden stick 8. It is stored in a wooden case 9, which serves as a handle while working with the knife.

Rice. 74. The final installation of levers for sweeping loops: a - in the Tula machine; b - in the Veritas car

On the machines "Veritas" 8014/2 and "Veritas" 8014/3, for making buttonholes, the control levers must be set accordingly. So, to sew the first side of the loop, lever 1 (see Fig. 73, b) must be between 0 and 1, lever 2 - on the number 2, lever 3 - with the sign L / 1 up.

Putting the buttonhole foot on the machine (see Fig. 72, c) and laying the fabric, make a few test stitches. In this case, it is necessary to look at the resulting processing and, if necessary, adjust the density of the cover and remove the fabric.

The product is placed under the foot so that the beginning of the intended line for the buttonhole falls under the needle, then the foot is lowered and one side of the buttonhole is sewn to the end. Leaving the needle down at the end of the line marked for the buttonhole, raise the foot and turn the product 180 °, then lower the foot and put the needle in the up position.

Having set the levers for making the bartack (lever 2, as shown in Fig. 74, b, to the number 4, and lever 3 with the M / 2 sign up), several stitches are again made (about four to five).

Having raised the needle, the levers 2 and 3 are moved to the position in which they were when the first side of the loop was sewn (see Fig. 73, b).

Having swept out the second side of the loop, they again make a backtack, and then, so that the loop does not unravel, they fix the thread. To do this, set lever 2 to 0, lever 3 - with the M / 2 sign up and make

three or four stitches. After that, it remains only to cut the loop between the swept sides from one backtack to the other.

Rice. 75. Knife for cutting loops: a - in the closed state; b - in working condition

If you pass the appropriate thread through the hole in the extra thread foot, the buttonholes will be embossed. In this case, at the beginning of overcasting the first side of the buttonhole and after turning the fabric (before overcasting the second side), it is necessary to adjust the additional thread under the needle with the tip of the hand needle so that the upper thread attaches it. Buttonholes can also be sewn at other settings of lever 2. On thin fabrics, the sides of the buttonhole can be made not 2, but 1.5 mm wide, with a backtack width of not 4, but 3mm (the width of the backtack should be twice the width of each side, since it must simultaneously fasten both sides of the loop).

Using the buttonhole foot (see Fig. 72, c) attached to the Veritas machine, it is very good to perform richelieu embroidery with a large pattern. They stretch the fabric with the pattern printed on it onto the hoop (the teeth of the rack do not need to be lowered or covered with a plate). Lever 2 is set to 0, and lever 1 is set to the division corresponding to a stitch 1 mm long. First you need to sew, as with a presser foot, the lines of the pattern with a sewing stitch. Then, setting lever 2 between the numbers 1 and 2, overcast the line, and to sheathe it with a “roller” seam, move lever 2 closer to number 2, growl 1 closer to O and, adjusting lever 1 on a test piece of starched fabric, the density of the seam and lever 2 its width, stitched according to the pattern. At the same time, it is no longer necessary to adjust the width and density of the “roller” seam by moving the hoop, you should only slightly direct the hoop so that the pattern line all the time approaches the foot against the needle from the side of the worker.

If the fabric is starched a little, then on a very large pattern, you can use the buttonhole foot to lay a “roller” seam without a hoop. This stitch can be sewn with a sewing thread by inserting it into the hole of the extra thread foot, but at the same time, lever 3 must be set so that the needle is in the left position. All these operations can also be performed with a foot (see Fig. 69) for sewing on a cord, which has short horns and a hole for an additional thread in the center between the horns. The needle does not require a left position. If the design is very large, then almost all of it can be done with the foot, which eliminates the need to shake the hoop and adjust the pace of its progress. It is only necessary to direct the line of the pattern to the foot.

However, using the foot for sewing on a cord or making buttonholes, in which the fabric feed works, you cannot set up and overcast brids, make spiders and mosaic mesh, because in this case the sole of the foot will be scratched and the teeth of the fabric feed will be dulled.