Perfume ingredients can be incredibly expensive for a number of understandable reasons, the main one being the difficulty of obtaining these very ingredients. Some of them are plant extracts that can only be collected at certain times: for example, before sunrise or only one month of the year.
There are also components that are obtained from the stomach of whales or from the glands of rare breeds of deer. Some fine ingredients come from wood or animal sources (the latter making the use of such perfumes ethically questionable for vegetarians and vegans). Here are the six most expensive fragrances included in perfumes:
1. Jasmine
A synthetic analogue of this ingredient is used in the vast majority of perfumed products. But there is also natural jasmine extract. To obtain natural jasmine oil, a huge amount of collected flowers is processed. In addition to the impressive amount of raw materials that need to be spent, it is also very fragile. It is necessary to protect the petals from damage and fully preserve their aroma in order to embody it in a perfume masterpiece. Therefore, the speed of processing raw materials is extremely important, which also affects its cost.
2. Bulgarian rose oil
Rose petals are an even more expensive and valuable material for the perfume industry. Their collection season is very short, and the collection process is technically complex. Firstly, each flower on a thorny bush must be cut individually and very carefully. Secondly, the collection takes place almost in the dark - early in the morning, before dawn. The collected flowers are immediately taken to the plant in a special container, where they are carefully processed.
Due to the extreme high cost of pink raw materials, its counterfeits are flooding the perfume market. In addition to synthetic surrogates, some suppliers manage to mix rose extract with geranium or palmarosa oil. In any case, the original recipe suffers greatly from such manipulations.
3. Musk
Natural musk leads among the most expensive components of perfumery. Now it is almost completely replaced by a synthetic analogue, which, with the development of the chemical industry, can be used in most perfume compositions without losing their quality and originality. But, in fact, musk is the secretion of the glands of musk deer. Its popularity is due to the fact that it fixes the aroma well and makes it very lasting. Currently, musk deer have become endangered animals in the wild, hunted only by poachers. By making sure that the perfume contains synthetic musk, even vegans can use it.
4. Orris root
Another expensive fragrance is iris or orris, also known as “orris root.” The essential oil of this plant is used in eau de toilette, perfume and cologne. It is quite difficult to extract - an extraction method is used. The intermediate raw material is then exposed to dilute sulfuric acid and steam. Iris pale, Germanic, and Florentine are used. Exit useful product- just a fraction of a percent of the total mass of raw roots. Therefore, both the cultivation and processing of the natural raw materials of this plant is one of the most expensive. 
5. Agarwood
Agar oil, obtained from the agar tree (oud), is simply a magical ingredient from the point of view of all fans of exclusive perfumes. Perhaps, for a non-specialist, the oud aroma at the first acquaintance will be too sharp and unusual. The most expensive tree in the world has been used for the basis of various incense for several centuries. Fragrances created in Arab countries are especially famous for their content of this component. In Japan and India, oud is also highly valued. Among other things, it is part of the medicinal compositions offered by alternative medicine. The resinous core from which agarwood oil is extracted must be affected by a special type of bacteria. And the precious component agar is the result of the tree’s production of a kind of protection.
6. Amber
Like natural musk, natural ambergris played the role of a fixative in composite aromas. Now they have learned to synthesize it in the laboratory. But real ambergris is formed in the intestines of the sperm whale to digest food, and then is excreted from the body with other waste products. At first, the substance resembles a liquid, darkish mass, which gradually hardens in the sun. If you touch it and warm it with your hands, you can hear a surprisingly attractive, enchanting aroma. Natural ambergris is one of the three most expensive ingredients for perfume.
14.04.2016
Creating new fragrances is akin to magic. Only in the skillful hands of a perfumer can a unique combination be born, which is destined to become a famous perfume. Today, our rating includes only the most popular components, without which most perfume compositions cannot do. After learning more about some of the participants in the Top 10 most famous perfume ingredients, you will be quite surprised.
10. Galbanum
It's no secret that modern chemists have learned to reproduce the aromas of freshly cut grass, cucumber or watermelon without leaving the laboratory. However, there is a plant whose natural aroma conveys this entire range of odors. We are talking about such a perennial as galbanum. For several centuries, this plant was considered a valuable medicine not only in its homeland - Iran and Afghanistan - but throughout Europe. When the leaves of the plant are damaged, a milky sap is released, which quickly turns into resin in air. It was in this form that galbanum was used for medical purposes by the ancient Aesculapians, saving patients from mental disorders and curing skin inflammations. Since the 19th century, galbanum has also been used in perfumery. Professionals compare the smell of this plant with the aromas of the forest. The legendary perfumer Jacques Guerlain was also a true fan of galbanum. It was he who first began to use galbanum essential oils in perfume compositions in high concentrations. This bold experiment was the fragrance “Night Flight”, dedicated to the writer and good friend Guerlain, Antoine de Saint-Exupéry. It was in honor of his work that the new fragrance from Guerlain was named.
9. Incense
The history of this fragrance deserves respect. Thus, incense is mentioned in the Bible, where its value is equal to gold. Even today no one can live without it. church ceremony among Christians. The source of incense is a tree of the genus Boswellia, which is also called incense tree. In February, small cuts are made on the trees, from which milky juice is released abundantly and for a long time. Over time, the sap hardens into resin. It is the resin that is used to obtain essential oil, which is used in perfumery. But during services, pieces of resin are set on fire. When smoldering, they emit a rather strong aroma. Today, the world leader in the export of incense is Somalia. It is curious that strong-smelling incense is difficult to distinguish in perfume compositions, since it only shades other aromas, never dominating.
8. Musk
Musk began to be used in perfumery back in the 15th century. This substance, according to professionals, gives the aroma a seductive sensuality. The source of musk is musk deer, a type of roe deer. The musk gland is located under the skin of the animal on the abdomen, and is a small sac with a diameter of 4-8 cm. During the mating season, musk deer use the secretion of this gland to mark their territory, attracting females. Previously, to obtain musk, the animal had to be killed. In order to obtain 1 kg of the substance, up to 40 heads had to be destroyed. Today, musk is extracted in a much more humane way on special farms. To do this, the animal is caught and placed in a trap. And then the musk deer are euthanized for 30-40 minutes. During this time, the contents of the musk gland are removed using a silver spatula, and upon awakening the animal is released into the wild until the next mating season. Musk looks like ground coffee, but the smell is sharp, ammonia-like. The alcohol tincture smells less intense and much more noble. Musk notes are most often found in perfume compositions with an oriental flavor. True, today natural musk is used very rarely in perfumery, replacing it with cheaper artificial analogues.
7. Sandalwood
Obtaining this perfume ingredient today is often a crime. This is the situation in India with the production of sandalwood essential oil. After all, the export of sandalwood wood and oil in this country is strictly prohibited. The reason for this was large-scale cutting down of trees, which threatens the complete extinction of the species. This excitement is dictated high cost raw materials. So, today you will have to pay 1 thousand dollars for 1 kg of sandalwood oil. This oil was used in shamanic rituals as an offering to the gods in ancient times. In addition, the smell of sandalwood often accompanies meditation, as it allows you to relax as much as possible and overcome the blues. By the way, it was precisely for these qualities that sandalwood was popular among folk healers. In perfumery, sandalwood oil is perhaps one of the most popular ingredients. Moreover, its unobtrusive woody notes are appropriate in both men's and women's fragrances.
6. Rose
There are a great many varieties of this flower in the world, but only two types are the most popular in perfumery. This is the Centifolia rose, which is still grown today in French Provence, and, of course, the famous Damascena rose, which has become a symbol of Bulgaria. Gardeners who grow roses know the capricious nature of this flower. There are also wisdoms during the harvest. So, in the midday heat, rose petals are not collected, since heat makes their aroma stronger, but not so delicate. This means that the bulk of the petals are collected at dawn, rushing to complete the work before half past eight. Products collected at this time are of excellent quality. An experienced picker can harvest up to 8 kg of petals per hour. A little more than 1 gram of essential oil will be made from this mass. During the day, workers collect up to 50 kg of delicate petals.
5. Orange blossom
Bitter orange blooms in April-May. In our country, the flowers of Citrus aurantium amara are better known as orange blossom. Translated from French, this is nothing more than “orange flower.” And although the homeland of this plant is in Southern China, for several centuries it has been thriving in the Mediterranean. In particular, in France, orange blossom is an invariable attribute of every wedding ceremony. These flowers are often included in the bride's bouquet, or decorate her head in the form of a wreath. However, the mission of flowers with a delicate aroma does not end there. Otherwise, what are they doing in the Top 10 most famous perfume ingredients? By distilling bitter orange flowers, neroli essential oil is obtained. Rumor has it that the oil owes this name to the Duchess Orcini de neroli, who was a devoted fan of this fragrance back in the 16th century. But the oil obtained from leaves and branches is called petitgrain oil. Even orange peel is used, and this essential oil is called bigarade.
4. Lavender
Lavender was once an incredibly sought-after perfume ingredient. At the beginning of the last century, British men were scented with fresh lavender cologne. However, today lavender is no longer in fashion. Perfumers do not risk making this smell the main one in the aroma of new perfumes. This happened due to the fact that today the smell of lavender is increasingly used as a flavoring agent for household chemicals. Its fresh smell is associated with clean bed and a tidy house. Good reputation for fragrance, but not suitable as a base for perfume. But, besides the aroma, lavender is endowed with other remarkable qualities. For example, lavender oil is an excellent antiseptic and promotes rapid healing of wounds. A small incident that happened to perfumer Rene-Marie Gattefosse helped us find out about this. While working in the laboratory, he severely burned his hand, and when he reflexively pulled it back, he accidentally fell into a vat of lavender oil. And then Gattefoss was surprised to find that the pain subsided quite quickly. The perfumer later noticed that the burn was healing much faster than usual. In order to enhance the effect, he began to apply compresses with lavender oil to the wound, which contributed to speedy recovery. Knowing about the antiseptic properties of lavender, it is still used today in cosmetology and medicine. True, real lavender grows high in the Alps, and is quite expensive. And in the lavender-colored fields of Provence, which attract many tourists, it is not lavender itself that actually grows, but its hybrid - lavandin.
3. Iris
There are about 300 species of irises in nature. And only a couple of them are of interest to perfume manufacturers. These are irises of the florentina and pallida varieties, which grow in Morocco and near Florence, Italy. Perfumers are not at all interested in the flowers of this plant, however, they are very attracted to its rhizomes. The thing is that after certain processing, the orris root begins to smell like a forest violet. But to achieve a similar effect, you should use the rhizomes of a plant that is at least three years old. By the way, the extracted root will have to be dried for the same amount of time. And only after that the roots are crushed, filled with water, and distilled. From 1 ton of dry roots you can get only 2 kg of essential oil. These numbers speak volumes about the cost of this fragrance.
2. African stone
Hiraceum or the so-called African stone is today actively used in perfumery as a aroma fixative. This substance is the fermented waste products of rocky hyraxes. These small animals, the size of a cat, live in colonies and choose the same place for years to perform their natural needs. Over several centuries, under the influence of the scorching African sun, the feces fermented and petrified, but did not lose their distinctive musky smell. It must be said that before perfumers, “African stone” was in great demand among local tribes. Shamans used it to treat toothache, seizures, ear infections and nervous disorders.
1. Amber
This substance is included in most expensive perfumes. Ambergris is a kind of fixative. Its presence in a perfume composition allows the aromas to evaporate more slowly, lingering on the skin. What is the nature of ambergris? Surprisingly, this substance is a waste product of sperm whales. It is formed only in the intestines of the male, and is a reaction to his eating large quantity squid Initially, ambergris has dark color, viscous consistency and disgusting fecal smell. But under the influence of light and salty ocean water, the substance brightens, hardens, and acquires a noble smell. The most valuable is the so-called white amber, clarified by time and nature until gray. It is noteworthy that ambergris easily dissolves in alcohol and does not dissolve at all in water. And at a temperature of 100 °C, the ambergris evaporates, leaving behind only a white cloud. As you know, today whaling is illegal, and the only way to get ambergris is to find it on the shores of the Atlantic Ocean. Most often this small pieces, but there are also quite weighty specimens. So, in 1942, a piece of ambergris weighing 340 kg was found on the coast of Madeira. Be that as it may, perfume companies are literally hunting for this substance, since natural ambergris has qualities that no synthesized substance can replace.
To create unique scents, perfumers have learned to use very unusual ingredients. And many have succeeded in this. After all, other perfumes can lift your spirits, fill you with energy and instill confidence. It is only important to find exactly your scent. Have you already succeeded, or is your search for your favorite scent still ongoing?
Real perfumes aren't cheap. What are they made of? To create perfumes, both natural ingredients and materials of chemical origin are used. Naturally, perfumes made using raw materials of plant origin will cost more than those made from synthetic aromatic substances. So what are perfumes made of?
Perfume is the most persistent flavoring agent. They consist of:
- Essential oils – 15-30%;
- 96% alcohol;
- Distilled water;
- Dyes.
It is this composition that allows the aroma of perfume to unfold gradually. When applied, we feel the top notes of the composition. Over time, the smell changes, revealing the “heart notes” of the perfume. After which the aroma changes again, and we feel the final “chords” of the perfume - the trailing notes. A perfume can contain up to 300 components, which together create a unique aroma.
Perfume raw materials
To obtain an interesting composition, perfumers use various raw materials. Currently, more than 6 thousand items are used. Not only flower petals are used, but also roots, stems, herbs, fruits, buds, and mosses. And how many of them do you need? For example, to obtain 500 ml of jasmine essential oil, you need to process two tons of the petals of this flower. To obtain the same amount of rose oil you will need 2500 kg of rose petals. The most expensive component of perfume is iris. Its cost reaches 40,000 euros per 1 kg. But progress does not stand still. Chemists have long learned to synthesize oils from more accessible components. These substances are called aldehydes. This does not make the smell worse, but the price is lower.
Oils of animal origin play one of the important roles in creating perfumes. Their task is not only to add an interesting note to the composition, but also to achieve harmony between the smells of human skin and perfume. There are four such components:
- Ambergris is a hardened fragrant product formed in the intestines of the sperm whale.
- Castoreum is secreted by the endocrine glands of beavers.
- Musk is an odorous secretion obtained from the glands of the male musk deer (roe deer family).
- Civet is a substance secreted by the glands of some animals from the civet family, civets.
Unfortunately, the animal does not always remain alive, so one cannot help but appreciate the contribution of chemists who search for and find substances that can replace these components.
Chanel
Some people are interested in the composition of Chanel No. 5 perfume. I would like to note that the creation of this composition would not have been possible without chemical synthesis. The basis of perfumes is dominated by aldehydes - chemically synthesized components. Top notes are pink pepper, iris, hyacinth, pineapple and patchouli. The heart of the composition is citruses and jasmine. Well, the final chords are vanilla, white musk, vitiver and patchouli.
And finally, I would like to note that real perfumes “last” on the skin for 5 hours or more, and on clothes for up to 30 hours. On different people the same aroma “reveals” in different ways. And if you liked any of your friend’s perfumes, don’t rush to take the same one for yourself. First, spray a little on your wrist and sniff after a while, maybe it’s not your scent.
Perfume Component
The first letter is "a"
Second letter "m"
Third letter "b"
The last letter of the letter is "a"
Answer for the clue "Perfume component", 5 letters:
ambergris
Alternative crossword questions for the word ambergris
and. an fragrant substance found in clods along the seashore, believed to be from the intestines of whales (sperm whales). Black ambergris, in trade, black amber jet. The amber smell is only detectable when smoking it
Waxy substance from sperm whale for perfumery
A substance used in perfumery to make the scent of a perfume last longer.
whale incense
"wax" in the gut of a sperm whale
Incense (obsolete)
Perfume aroma fixer
Whale's gift to perfumers
Incense
Definition of the word ambergris in dictionaries
Great Soviet Encyclopedia
The meaning of the word in the dictionary Great Soviet Encyclopedia
(from Arabic anbar), a waxy substance formed in the digestive tract of the sperm whale; It is also found floating in the water or thrown ashore by waves. Pieces of A. have a round shape, weigh from several kg to 300≈400 kg; density 900≈920 kg/m3,...
Examples of the use of the word ambergris in literature.
He had already encountered many of these materials before, in the market - in the flower and spice aisles, others were new to him, and he filtered them from aromatic mixtures and stored them nameless in his memory: amber, civet, patchouli, sandalwood, bergamot, benzoin, hop color, beaver stream.
Of course, neither musk, nor civet, nor rose oil, nor ambergris, it is clear.
Here ambergris merged with rose water, And the atlas was decorated with lines: Like, if a daughter gives birth to Shahra, then the mother is obliged to give her to the King.
Saffron and musk, rose and narcissus, and myrtle and ambergris- everything for dear Vis.
Like milk and wine, they merged, They grew together, like a rose and a daffodil, Mixed like ambergris and aloe, As with pearls - a golden sparkle.
