If you are not a secret admirer of Pierrot, then with too much long sleeves In outerwear, you need to do something, and it’s better before going out in public. Because you can wear a jacket for growth only once a year and only in the sandbox. In all other cases, too long a sleeve looks strange, undignified and interferes with movements.
With sleeves that are too short, the visual story is even sadder. The “shot” look is very cheap and leads to obsessive thoughts that someone is carrying something after someone else.
How to determine whether the sleeve is correct or not
Carry out an experiment - lower your arm, and then bend it at the elbow. In both cases does the sleeve reveal much of the wrist? So this is the wrong sleeve. What does this mean? In addition to the cheap “shot” look, this risks the fact that in winter no gloves will save you (unless they are up to the elbow). And pockets, by the way, too. The sleeve will rise up shamelessly, expose your wrist, and all conceivable and inconceivable winter precipitation, together with the piercing wind, will climb into your very soul, bypassing the jacket.
A small remark
We are, of course, talking about classic styles with traditional sleeve lengths and ignoring flared sleeves and the popular youth length of ¾ or 7/8.
What should the sleeve length be?
Feminism reigns in this issue, so the rules for determining sleeve length for men and women are common.
For winter clothes
The sleeve should reach the bones on the hand, with a clenched fist (the very place where the fingers grow).
For demi-season clothing
The sleeve should reach the protruding bone at the base of the phalanx thumb.
Stock up!
Since we don’t lie on the sofa in our outerwear with our arms stretched out at the seams, but actively wear them, move around and gesticulate, you don’t have to be a psychic to understand that extra sleeve length is vital. And that's why:
· When worn, folds form on the sleeves and in the elbow area, which naturally reduce their length.
· Fur and leather shrink significantly during wear (textiles - to a lesser extent). And, by the way, there is also leather fabric under the fur, on which, again, folds form in the elbow area. And not only folds, but also stretched areas, which are due to the same elbows.
Therefore, there are only three alternatives: either lie all winter with your arms outstretched, or move like a robot, or choose sleeves with a reserve for all possible deformations.
How to try on outerwear and what to pay attention to
No matter how tempting it may be to try on a fur coat directly on a T-shirt, there is no need to do this. Always try on your outerwear with the clothes you usually wear underneath, depending on the season. That is, if you breathe unevenly towards voluminous knitted sweaters and deer, then try on them. Or at least keep them in mind! The same goes for jackets with hangers and the habit of wearing a scarf under the jacket. All this can greatly shorten the sleeve.
What to do if you can’t try on a jacket? How to measure sleeve length?
This is a commonplace situation when buying clothes in an online store, so we will learn how to measure sleeve length using a measuring tape:
· The person being measured must stand in the most natural position possible. There's no need to do ballet posture if you don't have it.
· Bend your arm at the elbow at approximately 120° and move it slightly to the side.
· Place the zero centimeter mark at the end of the upper protruding bone of the shoulder. Then stretch the tape along the shoulder to the elbow and then to the wrist. Don't pull the tape too tightly, but don't let it sag either, but hold it on your elbow. The mark located at the level of the sleeve length you need (see above) is the full and required jacket sleeve length or coat sleeve length.
Shortening the sleeves
It happens that no matter how hard you try, your arms are short, or your sleeves are too long, but your jacket is just incredibly beautiful. That is, it is impossible not to buy! Most often, this can be easily corrected by turning up the cuffs (usually this function is provided in many styles of outerwear). If you consider lapels bad manners, then before shortening the sleeves, wear the jacket, sheepskin coat or fur coat for some time with the lapels so that the sleeves undergo all conceivable and inconceivable shrinkage, and only then shorten it.
We do not recommend shortening to a length of less than 2 cm. This is again due to shrinkage. That is, simply put, the sleeves themselves will naturally shorten by these 2 cm after some time.
Remember!
Patches, belt loops, buttons and others decorative elements cannot be transferred when shortening or lengthening sleeves. Of course, you can move it, but there will be holes on which, out of despair, it will be impossible to even do embroidery.
It is also not always possible to shorten the bottom of the sleeve, so undercuts are used, i.e. An additional seam will appear on the sleeve. In some cases, the sleeve is shortened through the armhole, if the width of the sleeve relative to the girth of the forearm allows.
If the last time you shone with your sewing talent was during labor lessons at school and didn’t even finish your apron, then correct solution will - entrust the shortening of sleeves to specialists who have the appropriate tools and experience.
We hope that the topic of the correct sleeve length has been fully covered for you and the only thing left for us to do is wish you a great shopping experience!
When purchasing ready-made clothes in a store, as a rule, you don’t have much to choose from. We simply buy one of the things available in the assortment. Tall gentlemen may have difficulty with this. Often they are faced with a problem such as sleeve length. They simply do not know what it should be. However, the assortment of modern stores offers a lot various options. You just need to be familiar with the basic rules for choosing clothes. So, what should be the sleeve length of a men's jacket? Let's try to figure it out.
Sleeve length We also look at the shirt
So, let's say a gentleman came to a clothing store. And he tries to choose the right outfit so that the sleeve length of a man's jacket meets all established standards. The shirt plays a big role in this matter. When the elbow is bent at a right angle, the cuff should be at the base of the hand. At the same time, she is obliged to cover the wrist bone. If the shirt is made to order, the cuff on the hand on which the man wears the watch should be larger in girth. The watch should be covered with it.
Ideal length
With the shirt, everything is clear - the rules are quite strict. Sleeve length has great variability. After choosing a suitable shirt, you should decide on a jacket. It becomes clear which sleeve to focus on - standard, short, long or extra-long. The latter was very fashionable in Soviet time. It reached to the bones on the phalanges of the fingers. This style, of course, is long outdated. Therefore, today such models are not in demand.
The most common length is the standard length (slightly shorter than the shirt sleeve). The cuff should protrude a centimeter and a half from under the jacket. But it’s popular among Italians short version. The cuff peeks out three to four centimeters from under the sleeve. And along with it you can see the monogram of the shirt and fashionable cufflinks.
Main rules
In general, we remember the main points regarding what the sleeve length of a men's jacket should be. The cuffs of the shirt protrude about one and a half centimeters. They cover their arms up to the hands. That is, the length of the jacket sleeve ends at the wrist bone, and the shirt sleeve ends at its line. When trying on a jacket, extend your arms along your body, bend your thumb ninety degrees. This is the ideal jacket length.
You can do it differently. Make sure the sleeve length ends twelve centimeters above the tip of your thumb. In addition, the jacket must smoothly fit the shoulder line. The seam at the junction with the sleeve should be smooth and not puffy when walking. Ideal if the armhole is quite high. Remember that it should fit under your arms and be comfortable. A low armhole is a sign of a cheap suit.
Full compliance
In a word, clothes should correspond to the figure in both volume and length. Although many consider the latter not so important. And in vain. The correct sleeve length for a man's jacket is one of the most serious issues in created image gentleman. You need to look perfect, as they say, “brand new.” That is, if your jacket fits perfectly in the chest, but the sleeve reaches the very fingers, its owner will look ridiculous and sloppy. It’s as if the item was taken from someone else’s shoulder.
Any guide for elegant men says that when the arm is down, the sleeve of the shirt should reach the root of the thumb. When the finger is raised up, the top of the angle between it and the wrist will be that very point. About one centimeter down from the thinnest area of the wrist. Next, the palm begins to expand, so the sleeve will not slide down. As a rule, one finger can be inserted between the cuff and the arm. As for the jacket sleeve, as mentioned above, its length depends on the length of the shirt sleeve. Pay close attention to their consistency with each other. Too long a sleeve, like too short one, is a big mistake. Folds on the hand are not allowed. This is a sign of complete bad taste.
Don't forget!
Thus, the correct sleeve length for a man's jacket with a shirt is one to one and a half centimeters of difference between them. However, two centimeters are allowed. But no more. That is, the jacket sleeve ends no more than two centimeters above the root of the thumb. This rule is relevant both for classic suit jackets and for club (sports) jackets. A conservative option is when the cuff peeks out a centimeter or a little less from under the jacket. Modern style- it is visible almost two centimeters.
If a man's hands are too large and long, it is best for him to go with the first option. The sleeve should be longer. Otherwise, the limbs look disproportionate. Even another option is allowed - the cuff can look out only half a centimeter. This will not be a crime against style. But if the cuff is completely hidden, this is already absurd. In short, if the jacket sleeve is longer than expected, the suit will look big. If the cuff is visible more than two centimeters, it will seem that the man has already grown out of this jacket.
Paired with a coat
The length of the sleeve is always visible to people around you. But what about the winter option hiding under outerwear? Of course, the sleeve of the coat is long enough, as it must protect its owner from the cold. It should overlap the shirt by approximately one centimeter, as well as the top edge of the gloves. Although if the cuff sticks out a little, this will not be considered an error. But let’s assume this point only in relation to the shirt. Under no circumstances should you wear a jacket! So, the sleeve of the coat should reach approximately the middle of the palm. Accordingly, the jacket should not peek out from under it. Only in this case will you look elegant and respectable. This applies, by the way, not only to coats, but also to sheepskin coats, jackets, raincoats and other outerwear.
We don't make mistakes
The sleeve length of a classic men's jacket must be respected by representatives of the stronger sex. And it doesn’t matter at all what your jacket will be - business or casual, classic black or bright, colorful, winter or summer. The main thing is not to make mistakes in choosing this wardrobe element. It is completely unacceptable for a sleeve to not meet generally accepted standards in the fashion world. Too long gives a sloppy effect. Too short - a certain effeminacy.
And this rule is an axiom for men with any body type. A correctly selected sleeve can even visually correct certain shortcomings. Don't try to hide too much thin hands under too wide and long sleeves. The effect will be the opposite. Thinness is only emphasized.
With a sweater
What is the correct sleeve length? men's clothing, if it is combined with a pullover or a jumper? If you just put it on, the cuff may peek out about one centimeter. In general, the principle is the same as with a jacket. Although men often violate it. But if a jacket is also worn over a sweater with a shirt, the sleeves can be in two positions. The first is sequential. A sweater ends higher than a shirt, and a jacket ends higher than a sweater. The second is two-layer. One thing peeks out from under the jacket. The second element is hidden.
In any case, do not forget to monitor the circumference of the cuff. The sleeve must not be allowed to slide down. It must be held on the wrist. If you pull it back, it should be no lower than the middle of your palm. Thus, you shouldn’t worry too much when choosing a jacket. The main thing is to remember the basic rules. You can easily choose the optimal sleeve length. As a last resort, an experienced sales consultant will definitely help you with this. True, for this it is, of course, recommended to visit branded, expensive stores.
Results
Let's summarize. Considering all of the above, rest assured that you already know that the sleeve length of your jacket will be chosen correctly. That is, you will be sure that the cuffs of the shirt should protrude from under the jacket by an average of one and a half centimeters. The beginning of the hands is covered with them. When purchasing a suit, you need to ensure that the sleeve length of the jacket reaches exactly to the wrist bone. Shirts - exactly to his line (where the brush begins). Determining the optimal sleeve length for your jacket will not be difficult. Stretch your arms along your body while trying on and bend your thumb ninety degrees. Or measure about twelve centimeters from its tip. This is where the sleeve will end.
In a word, there is absolutely nothing complicated in choosing a jacket. You can easily cope with this task if you remember a few basic axioms. Do not doubt that you will look very stylish, beautiful, elegant. But this is so important for any man. The ideal image will be appreciated by both employees, the woman you love, and just strangers around you. Accordingly, you will gain additional self-confidence and feel irresistible. That is, you will become an excellent role model. It is impossible to take your eyes off such a man. He always attracts attention and causes admiration. Therefore, take note of the rules described above and feel free to go to the store. Happy shopping!
The appearance of a business person is his business card. By the way you look, your partners and clients can conclude what kind of professional you are. After all, no matter how you look at it, you still meet people based on their clothes.
But buying a presentable business suit is half the battle. The most difficult thing is to choose a jacket, trousers, shirt and accessories so that they perfectly emphasize your style and status.
Below you will find several practical advice on this matter, as well as useful infographics that will help you choose a suit that fits your figure.
1. General view. After putting on the suit, take the most natural pose for yourself. You should not pull in your stomach and straighten your shoulders - you should see how the suit will fit in Everyday life, and not in front of the mirror in the fitting room. Then raise your arms up to the sides and walk a little. If trousers or a jacket hinder your movements, then you missed the model or size.
2. Shoulders. The shoulders of the jacket should not hang down or wrinkle. The sleeve seam should start exactly where the shoulder ends. If it hangs off the shoulder or, on the contrary, creates a “wave,” then the jacket is either too big or too small for you.
3. Pants. The fit of your pants should match the shape of your hips. There are several nuances here. First, your waistline should always be in place, regardless of whether you are sitting or standing. Secondly, the folds of the trousers should correspond to the shape of the body - when you are just standing, the trousers should not wrinkle either in front or in the back. Thirdly, the trousers should not “stick” too much (hipster style) to the hips - it will be uncomfortable to sit on, and those around you will know what kind of underwear you prefer. Fourthly, the step line should be high enough so that there is no sagging. Otherwise, a “sharovar effect” will be created. Trousers with a low armhole, of course, have a right to life, but not in a business suit.
4. Pants length. Pants are too long if the leg “lies” on the shoe, forming a large fold. Pants are too short if the leg does not touch the shoes and socks are visible. Pants are the right length if the cuff of the leg rests slightly on the boot, forming a barely noticeable elegant fold. Remember: if your size is not available, it is better to buy trousers a little longer - they can be hemmed in the studio.
5. Buttons. To check if your jacket is too small in girth, stand in front of a mirror and button one top button. A well-fitting single-breasted jacket has lapels and tails that fit neatly together, and the button fastens freely without tension. If the jacket is too small for you, then an ugly fold in the shape of the letter “X” will form on your stomach, from under which the shirt will peek out from above and below, and the button will puff up, as if it is about to come off. If the jacket is too big for you, then the floors will overlap, like a wraparound robe.
6. Sleeve length. Golden Rule The ratio between the length of the jacket sleeve and the length of the shirt sleeve is 1.5 cm. This is exactly how much the shirt cuff should “peek out” from under the jacket. If the cuff is completely hidden, the jacket sleeve is too long; if it is completely visible, the sleeve is too short. As for shirts with short sleeve, then to determine the ideal sleeve length, focus on the wrist joint. The jacket sleeve should be slightly longer than the bend of your wrist.
7. Jacket length. The jacket should be long enough to cover the curve of the buttocks and short enough to reveal as much of the leg line as possible. There are two ways to determine the ideal jacket length. First: measure the length along the back from the collar to the floor, and then divide the result by 2. Second: use your hands as a “ruler”. To do this, you need to lower them along the seams (without stretching or straining them on purpose) - the jacket should end approximately in the middle of the palm. However, this method has an “error” - the accuracy of the measurement greatly depends on the individual anatomical characteristics of the person.
8. Collar. The collar of the jacket should fit well to the collar of the shirt, which, in turn, should fit perfectly around the neck. Ideally, that is, not “choking” and not “hanging out”. Stand sideways to the mirror and look at the collar. If the collar is pulled back or wrinkles form underneath, then this jacket is not suitable for you. The reasons may be different - the wrong size, does not fit in the shoulders, etc.
The following infographic will help you visualize the tips described.
A men's jacket as a piece of clothing remains the most versatile and necessary element of our wardrobe. We can wear it in any weather: cold or hot - there are always a lot of fabric options that will be appropriate and comfortable for a certain temperature. For this reason, every man probably has at least one sports jacket in his closet. If not, we highly recommend adding it to your upcoming shopping list. For the first, dark blue is quite suitable because of its exceptional versatility. There was a separate article about that. Today we’ll give some advice on what requirements a well-fitted specimen should meet. Simply put, how should a jacket fit.
In most guides on how to find the right blazer or suit jacket size, you'll find strict recommendations about sleeve length, shoulder width, chest fullness, and the length of the jacket itself. A popular phrase is: “a jacket should fit like a glove” (that is, fit tightly to the figure). All these rules work in most cases, however there are nuances.
For example, talking about jacket length, the most common advice is that the bottom edge should be at the level of your knuckles. Can we blindly apply this rule? Probably not. There is a difference between the styles men's jackets and suits. This rule applies to the formal traditional:
But what about modern cropped jackets?
As we can see, this rule does not apply here.
Thus, the length of the jacket can vary depending on the style. Not to mention that everyone's arm length is different.
You can also find advice that the back of the jacket should completely cover the butt. Again, this is not always the case. It would be more accurate to say that the jacket should be long enough to cover the buttocks, while at the same time exposing as much of the leg line as possible.
Balance in body proportions is important here. And one of the tasks of clothing is to hide the flaws of our physique. As for the jacket, it is considered harmonious when the bottom edge of the jacket divides the distance from the collar to the floor approximately in half. Thus, be careful: a jacket that is too long will visually shorten your legs.
Next, when we talk about shoulder width, the basic rule is that the jacket's shoulders should end exactly where yours end. However, we must not forget about the individual characteristics of the figure. If your shoulders are too narrow and sloping, it would be wise to choose a jacket that is a little wider but still stiff in the shoulders.
Width at chest Usually it should be such that the palm can easily slide inside, but not the fist. And this is correct in most cases. But again, not always. Many people prefer a little more chest space. And at the same time they look elegant.
Concerning sleeve length, then there are quite reliable guidelines here. First, remember the point on your arm below which (with your arm down) the sleeve should not be. This is a very specific place, which has its own scientific biological name:
Most often, the length of the jacket sleeve reaches only the wrist bone, and then the shirt cuff peeks out:
So if we wonder, how should a jacket fit, then one cannot ignore the style and, accordingly, silhouette. It is these two concepts - the correct jacket size and silhouette - that are inextricably linked. Knowing clearly what you want from the silhouette - a narrow waist or not, wide or natural shoulders, a cropped jacket or a little longer - you can easily choose your correct size.
At the same time, there are details that do not depend on either the model or fashion, but are no less important. You need to remember them when choosing a jacket in a store or accepting work from a tailor.
How a jacket should fit: the most common problems
Sleeve base and collar.
This is perhaps the most difficult part and the most common fault with poorly tailored jackets. Ideally, there should be no indentations or bends at the top of the sleeve, and the collar should fit neatly to the neck. In the photo below you can see these flaws.
Place of a buttoned button.
This is often where the fabric is stretched excessively, creating an X-shaped fold. Sometimes this is done deliberately to suit trends. modern fashion, however, most often this is a sign that the jacket is too tight for you at the waist. Please note that the following example does not have this drawback.
Sloppy back.
In addition, the back can also be a problem area. Unsightly folds and tension in the waist, shoulders and under the collar. A well-fitting jacket should be free of these problems and should look crisp and straight.
Sleeves.
It is common to see wrinkles on the sleeves if it is not sewn properly. Here is an example of such a problem:
Splines.
A well-fitted jacket has vents that hug the body. Make sure the vents on your jacket are similar to those in the picture.
Balance.
This includes, first of all, the balance of the lengths of the front and back, as well as left and right. There are two schools, two views on the relationship between the front of the jacket and the back. Some tailors are of the opinion that the front should be slightly longer than the back of the jacket. Others believe that they should be equal. In our examples we are dealing with the second school. Another aspect is the balance between left and right. Here, fortunately, there are no two opinions: both the left and Right side must be aligned with each other.
When choosing a ready-made jacket or suit in the store, and having settled on the most suitable size, do not be lazy and try on one or two more copies of the same size. With a high degree of probability, they will sit slightly differently. Or have one or another disadvantage described above. Carefully inspect it from all sides and make sure that everything is in order, and only after that go to the cashier.
This was a short instruction on how the jacket should fit. Remember that the right size is alpha and omega men's style. Happy shopping!
Even more interesting materials in our groups.
does not fit normal size. Men's differ in height, collar volume and sleeve length. Moreover, most foreign manufacturers assign sizes based on the last two parameters. Secondly, before purchasing a shirt, you must take measurements. Even if you have recently made successful clothing purchases, it is worth updating your data. Thirdly, the ideal one should not bunch up in folds, bubble at the waist or get out from under the belt.Determine your collar size. To find out your shirt size by collar, you need to measure your neck circumference. This is done as follows. Wrap the measuring tape around the base of your neck. Add 1-2 cm to the resulting figure so that the collar lies freely and does not squeeze the throat. For example, if your neck circumference is 39 cm, then choose a shirt of size 40 or 41. There should be a free space equal to the thickness of your index finger between the top button of a buttoned collar and your neck. If the gap is larger, tightening the tie will ruin the collar. It will bunch up or slide under the jacket.
Measure the length of the sleeve. It is inconvenient to do this on your own, ask someone close to you to help you. Stand up straight, straighten your shoulders. Bend your elbow and raise your elbow to shoulder level. Place your hand horizontally, parallel to your waist. You should definitely measure your bent arm to get a length that allows you to move freely. Stretch the measuring tape from the vertebra at the base of the neck over the shoulder, then along the arm to the base of the thumb. You will get the ideal length, from the point of view of etiquette: the cuffs of the shirt will completely cover the wrist and will protrude from the sleeve of the jacket by 1.5-2 cm. The sleeve provides another criterion for choosing a shirt. The seam that connects this part to the main part of the shirt should be located exactly at the edge of the shoulder. If the seam goes lower, the shirt is too big; if it goes up, the shirt is too small.
Exactly according to height. This parameter does not change in adults. In addition, the height discrepancy between the shirt is easily determined during fitting. Therefore, it is enough to know it with an accuracy of 2-3 cm. A correctly selected shirt should be long enough. It needs to be tucked into your trousers by about 8-10 cm. In this case, you will be able to raise your arms freely, the shirt will not jump out.
Fitting. Look carefully at the packaging. Sizing tables are often printed on the back. Labels differ between domestic and foreign companies. If you find it difficult to choose, ask the seller to help you. Do not buy a shirt without trying it on. This procedure will not take you much time, but all the shortcomings will be immediately noticeable.
