Place the mixture, for example, in an empty tin can and, stirring thoroughly with a stick, heat it in a water bath until a homogeneous mass of liquid consistency is obtained. Then, heating an area of the skin with hot air from a hairdryer or sitting near an open stove so that the skin warms up to a temperature of 40-45 degrees, we successively treat the heated areas of the shoe with a hot compound, including the seams and the connection between the outsole and the upper, applying the compound with a brush. Warming up the skin is necessary to open the pores of the skin. After the mixture is absorbed by the skin, dry the shoes and repeat the procedure several more times (2-3 times at least). It depends on the leather of your boots. The remaining composition can be used as regular shoe polish in a cold form or heated again in a water bath and treated the shoes “hot”.
IMPORTANT! Don't overdo it! You cannot saturate the leather completely, the pores will become completely clogged and it will not breathe, it will become too elastic, and the boot will lose its rigidity. Do not overheat the skin too much, as this can damage it.
There are many options for the composition of the water-repellent mixture; you can search for it yourself on the Internet or in books.
IMPORTANT! Before the hike new shoes definitely need to be distributed. To do this, it is usually enough just to walk around the city in them several times for 2-5 km. As soon as you feel that there is no discomfort, the boots are completely ready for combat testing. If you want to check how well the shoes now hold water, test the “upgraded” boots by immersion in water, say, put them on and stand in them for several minutes in a bath filled with water somewhere at the level of the tongue. To enhance the water-repellent effect, you can additionally smear your boots with the remainder of the mixture you took with you (when cooled, it resembles regular shoe polish). The impregnation will need to be repeated before a new trip. You should not perform a similar hot soaking procedure with expensive trekking boots with a membrane (you will clog their pores); at most, you can spread them with a small layer of shoe wax and dry them with a hairdryer.
Advantages. The boots are quite suitable for use on a hike, with or without impregnation. The legs are quite comfortable, because Genuine Leather breathes well, thick sole absorbs shock. Even if moisture gets inside the boots, they are much easier to dry than multi-layer membrane shoes. Ankle boots are several times cheaper than trekking boots. In addition, with active use, the membrane lining inside the boot can wear out in a couple of seasons, and expensive shoes will begin to leak. In the case of ankle boots, even if they become worn out, it would not be a shame to write them off for other purposes (to the dacha, picking mushrooms in the forest, etc.).
Flaws. Berts, of course, are not as comfortable as trekking shoes; they take a long time to lace up, and they wear out much faster.
Conclusion: if funds allow, it is better to buy good trekking boots and care for them in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Who has their own impregnation recipes or others? useful tips on water protection and shoe care, write in the comments!
Write a comment
- Required fields are marked * .
Dimas
Posts: 9
Reply #10 on: Mon January 21, 2019, 00:20:29
For me, as a lazy person who has not gone on long hikes, the main advantage of budget boots is just their budget :)) I bought it and drove it when the slush was ankle-deep, I didn’t clean it, I didn’t lubricate it, I didn’t treat it with anything, it took a season or two or three - I threw it out and bought new ones. At a price of 2000-3000 tr. + discounts/bonuses, you can buy new ones every season :))
admin
Posts: 1
Re: Choosing shoes for hiking. A budget option hiking boot, or experience in improving ankle boots
Reply #9 on: Wed August 10, 2016, 19:51:38
It depends on what crosses and what route.
Anonymous
Posts: 9
Re: Choosing shoes for hiking. A budget option for hiking boots, or the experience of improving ankle boots
Reply #8 on: Tue August 09, 2016, 23:11:13
can you just put on sneakers and walk across the open spaces and mountains?? :-)1:-)
Artem
Posts: 9
Re: Choosing shoes for hiking. A budget option for hiking boots, or the experience of improving ankle boots
Reply #7 on: Sun August 12, 2012, 18:30:31
Regarding the ankle boots, I can add the following: not long ago we went hiking, I was wearing boots from Exstreem, my companion was wearing trekking boots (I don’t know the brand), I had to walk in the rain through a clearing with tall grass. After a couple of hours, his boots were completely wet...the boots were 1.5 hours later...But in the parking lot I dried the boots even without fire, but my companion continued to suffer in his damp boots. Draw your own conclusions...
Anonymous
Posts: 9
Re: Choosing shoes for hiking. A budget option for hiking boots, or the experience of improving ankle boots
Reply #6 on: Sat April 14, 2012, 17:14:00
Well, personally, I would like to mention not specific ankle boots, but rather army ointment for ankle boots. 3 years ago I was drafted into the army and given the usual authorized combat boots. At the KMB they had to be rubbed with regular army shoe polish. I suspect that because of him and the design of the boots, they did not get wet. I served in them for 5 months, 4 of which were at the summer training ground. They were not particularly exposed to moisture, but they lost their shape and came unglued a little, which was easily eliminated with a fair amount of Glue-moment :). Next is autumn. I splashed through puddles in them and didn’t think I’d get wet. Then I was given a second pair of shoes: boots. I walked away in them a little, until the spring training ground. The boots got wet, so almost the entire training ground was spent wearing ankle boots. That's when I really fell in love with them for their waterproofness. Because the shoes had to be kept clean (and at the spring training ground this is something of an impossibility), I stood up to the top in a puddle and cleaned them with a brush. Water did not seep in, and this is taking into account the fact that they were already after renovation. If it weren’t for the rapid loss of shape, I would have bought myself the same boots and covered them with something similar to army shoe polish. The main thing is not to overdo it - from large quantity Shoe boots begin to crack.
It is on a winter hike that you can test your strength and have a great time. And the impressions gained during the winter route will warm your soul for a long time. True, such a pastime should be taken with particular seriousness. To avoid getting into a difficult situation in winter forest, we want to offer you some recommendations. So, what do you need to know about winter hiking?
Dangers during winter hiking.
The main danger is, of course, low temperatures. At night and in the morning temperatures are sometimes much lower than during the day. Strong wind increases the impact low temperatures. High humidity promotes rapid heat loss.
In addition to the danger of hypothermia, the human factor is important. Lack of necessary equipment. Physical and mental unpreparedness can seriously complicate a winter hike.
Clothes for winter hiking.
You can't sweat while moving through the forest. When moisture is lost, the blood thickens, circulates worse and transfers heat to the extremities. When moving at temperatures not lower than -10, thermal underwear, a fleece jacket, and wind- and moisture-proof trousers and jacket will be enough. This set of clothes will keep you from sweating and freezing while you are moving. For overnight stay it is advisable to have sleeping bag with a comfortable temperature from -10. And of course, don’t forget a hat and gloves, preferably light and quick-drying. It is advisable to treat clothes and shoes with water-repellent agents. In winter, drying clothes is very problematic. During a winter hike, boots or a windbreaker sleeping bag damaged during drying can cause serious frostbite and severe colds. Therefore, you need to dry your shoes and clothes by the fire carefully and without haste. You should also not dry high-tech ammunition close to an open fire. Many modern materials quickly lose their properties when exposed to high temperatures.
Be sure to remember: clothes and shoes should not press and interfere with blood circulation. Clothes should not restrict movement, and shoes should be tight. It is very easy to get frostbite in an area of the body where blood circulation is poor.
Choosing a place to stay for the night.
A place to set up a camp in winter is usually chosen deep in the forest. This arrangement protects from the wind. Immediately pay attention to the presence of dry trees nearby. It is necessary to eliminate the threat of dead wood falling onto the camp. If there is a large amount of snow, the presence of a reservoir is not necessary. Melted snow is perfect as a source of water.
Setting up a tent in winter.
We thoroughly clear the tent site of snow. The snow at the tent site is leveled and compacted. You can’t put up a tent right away: you need to wait until the snow hardens. It’s better to remove shallow, loose snow under the tent; it won’t compact anyway. Clearing the site will not take much time, but there will be no bumps under the sides. Trees and bushes are used as much as possible for attaching guy ropes, and where they are not available, poles and skis are used.
An excellent solution would be to lay spruce feet under the bottom of the tent. This type of flooring provides good protection against heat loss through the ground. And sleep more softly. The walls of the tent can be sprinkled with snow or lined with snow bricks. We cover the bottom of the tent with rugs. preferably in two layers and overlapping.
Bonfire.
Each participant in the hike must have hermetically sealed matches. To quickly light a fire, you need to take several oblong pieces of plexiglass on a hike: it flares up well, and once it flares up, it does not go out even in strong winds and snowfall. The fire site must be well cleared of snow. It is good to use birch firewood. They flare up well and produce hot coals. For good combustion, large firewood needs to be split, and small ones need to be notched. We looked at ways to make a fire in ours.
Cooking food.
You need to eat on time and preferably something hot. It is good to eat porridge and cereals. They will provide enough energy and are easy to digest. Be sure to take a thermos to provide yourself with an extra portion of hot tea.
Traveling on a winter hike.
It is advisable to move through the snowy forest on skis or snowshoes. A regime of movement and rest is a must. It is optimal to take 5-10 minute breaks after every 30-40 minutes of movement. Avoid overwork and loss of strength. To ensure comfortable movement, pay attention to the weight of the backpack. It should not exceed 10-12 kg.
Travel more often. Come on in and you will learn a lot of new things.
Shoes. Legs are the only means of transportation in an extreme situation, not counting movement on a raft (where possible). Therefore, keeping your feet in good condition is one of the main tasks. That is why special requirements are placed on shoes. It should be worn in and not rub anywhere, be loose enough so that you can put an insole made of grass (or wrapped in grass) or dry moss in it.
Ventilation. Any item of clothing that has more than one layer will trap heat around the part of the body it covers to a much greater extent than a single layer, but for this to happen, the top layer must be looser than the inner layer.
Overheating of clothing leads to the release of sweat, and the clothing becomes damp and its insulating properties decrease. During prolonged physical activity in the tropics and desert, it is important to ventilate clothes. The combination of wet clothing and wind has a negative effect on the human body and can even lead to death.
Drying. Wet and damp clothes and shoes can be dried different ways. In summer, in sunny, hot weather, drying on sun-heated stones and sand is most effective. The clothes are attached to pegs driven into the ground or on tree branches so that they are well blown by the wind, and are periodically turned over so that both sides are evenly illuminated by the sun. Shoes are placed in such a way that the sun's rays enter, the insoles are removed and dried separately.
In cloudy weather, as well as in the evening, clothes and shoes are dried by the fire. All things should be illuminated by the flame, but not too close to the fire. To do this, a special dryer is built from poles, and for shoes, thick branches are stuck into the ground or a log (or stones) is placed. Shoes should not be placed with their soles near the fire, as they may become warped and cracked. After drying, the shoes should remain slightly damp and soft, as if they are over-dried, they will become hard and brittle. Such shoes will rub your feet, and in the worst case, they simply won’t fit your feet. Clothes and shoes should not be left unattended by the fire, and under no circumstances should they be dried directly over the fire. If there is not enough time, it is advisable to light a special fire for drying, so as not to wait until the food is cooked.
Never (especially in winter) dry your clothes and shoes by the fire; this method is not only ineffective, but can lead to burning of clothes, especially the soles of shoes, since you do not feel the heat. And if you are wearing synthetic clothing, this is doubly dangerous - from the heat it can melt on you and burn to your body.
Shoes can be dried by stuffing them with dry objects or materials that absorb moisture: straw, dry grass, hot sand. You can put hot, but not red-hot stones inside.
At sub-zero temperatures, clothes are dried in the cold, subsequently knocking out ice particles from them. If in winter your clothes get wet because you fell through the ice, then roll in the snow - it will absorb some of the moisture.
If in an extreme situation you find the strength to maintain personal hygiene, get food and water, get enough rest, create a shelter with comfort and coziness, orient yourself to the area - your chances of survival and return to people will increase dramatically.
The temperature in the drying area should not exceed 45-60°C, otherwise clothes may lose their original strength, and synthetic clothes may melt.
To dry clothes, it is advisable to provide special “hangers” consisting of 2-3 slingshot stakes driven into the ground with transverse poles placed in them or ropes stretched parallel to the fire pit. They should not be located above the flame, but at some distance from it. The temperature in the drying zone should not exceed 45-60°C, otherwise clothes may lose their original strength, and synthetic clothes may melt.
Strong heat does not so much dry things out as spoil them! Check temperature regime The easiest way is to place your face or hand in the drying area. If your skin is hot, it means that the heat is excessive and it is better to move the “dryer” further away from the fire.
At small rest stops, when there is no time to build permanent canopies-reflectors, they can be made from wet outerwear How to combine the pleasant thing - warming your own frozen bodies with the useful thing - drying clothes. To do this, a rope is passed through the sleeves of jackets, raincoats, etc., which is then stretched parallel to the fire pit behind the backs of the people sitting near the fire.
Instead of a rope, you can use a long pole laid on the branches of nearby trees, or “hangers” - stakes driven into the ground, to which transverse sticks are tied, inserted into the sleeves.
Before drying, shoes should be unlaced, straightened, and if they do not hold their shape, stretch the tops to the sides using small sticks inserted inside. Then the boots should be laid sideways on a dry stone placed under them, hung on branches stuck into the ground, or tied over a fire using ropes. Just be sure to make them cotton, which are not afraid of fire. And be sure to move it away from the fire.
Most inexperienced travelers do the opposite, i.e., wanting to get a quick result, they try to shove their wet boots almost into the fire. As a result, excessive spot overheating leads to the leather on shoes warping and cracking, felt boots “drying out,” and synthetic coatings can simply melt.
By the way, I once had to travel in boots that were “shrinked” in the fire and therefore lost their shape and shrank by three sizes. And I had to see how my artificial fabric socks turned into hot synthetic streams and drops flowing from the fire pit. The criterion for drying shoes should be the heating of the surface of the shoe, which should not exceed 40-45 ° C. That is, when touched, the skin of the fingers should not feel hot.
While hiking, your shoes may get wet. Tips on how to and should not dry shoes in natural conditions. The most effective and affordable drying methods. Things to remember if your boots get wet.
Anyone who has been hiking more or less often has experienced the fact that their shoes got seriously wet during the day. Boots or sneakers can get wet even in warm weather, from dew on the grass, or simply from sweat. What can we say when it rains, or you have to cross water obstacles. In a word, no one is safe from wet shoes. Therefore, a few tips on how to properly put your boots in order during a rest stop will be of interest to every tourist.
It would seem that the most obvious way is to dry your shoes by the fire. As a rule, inexperienced tourists resort to it, for which in the end they often have to pay. Placing wet shoes in close proximity to heat, sparks, smoke and fire, or even hanging them on pegs over a fire is an unforgivable mistake. Sneakers, boots or boots will at least dry out, which can cause them to crack or become completely worn out. It’s also not pleasant that the shoes will smell of smoke, the smell of which will never be removed. In the worst case, it will simply burn from the heat, and you risk being left barefoot in the middle of the hike.
Experienced tourists going on multi-day trips always try to take a spare pair of shoes with them. Let it be even ordinary sneakers. Such foresight will insure you against any unforeseen force majeure with boots, and it’s commonplace that while drying the main pair you won’t sit by the fire in your socks; this is where sneakers come in very handy.
If your shoes are not too wet, then it is best to leave them to dry for a while just under the sun, or at some distance from the fire, where the heat still reaches.
When your boots or sneakers are soaking wet, you will have to resort to little hiking tricks. First of all, you should remove the insoles and leave them to dry in a place protected from moisture.
Did someone take extra rice with them on a hike? Well, you're in luck. Rice perfectly absorbs moisture, and if you take one pair of socks, pour a couple of handfuls of rice into each, and place the resulting bags in your shoes, then by morning they will be perfectly dry.
There may not be enough rice in the required quantity, but toilet paper always take extra with you. You unwind a couple of five-meter lengths from the roll, crumple them and put them in your shoes. After some time, the paper will become completely wet, having absorbed some of the moisture. After this, repeat the procedure, and so on until the sneakers or boots are in a digestible state.
Dry hay absorbs moisture well. You can also use it as a kind of “blotter”. True, after drying, the shoes will have to be shaken out properly; a couple of remaining blades of grass inside can prick and rub your feet, which will ruin your entire hike.
You should never disregard common sense and continue hiking in wet boots, shoes or sneakers. Wet fabric and especially leather become very deformed and rub the feet. Within an hour or two, you may develop painful calluses. Not to mention possible colds and more serious diseases that wet feet lead to.
