What to do in Strasbourg at Christmas. France. Pre-Christmas Strasbourg - Evgeniy Kovalev - LJ. Strasbourg Cathedral and surroundings

The terrorist threat level in France has been raised to maximum. The country's authorities took this measure after the shooting in Strasbourg. Late on Tuesday evening, it was carried out by a man allegedly associated with radical Islamist circles. The incident has been classified as a terrorist attack. Three people were killed and at least 12 were injured. Wednesday was declared a day of mourning in the city. Why the capital of Christmas could not be saved from the tragedy and how Strasbourg is experiencing it - in the material of Izvestia.

From walks to the Marseillaise

One of the oldest Christmas markets in Europe, Strasbourg appeared in 1570, becoming the first for France. Largely thanks to this attraction, in 1992 the city was officially proclaimed the capital of Christmas. Every year, on the eve of the holiday, thousands of tourists and local residents flocked to the city.

On the evening of December 11, the Christmas idyll was grossly disrupted. At 20:00 local time, an armed man suddenly opened fire near the fair. About 15 minutes later, police arrived at the scene, but failed to capture the criminal: after two shootouts with law enforcement officers at about 9 pm, the criminal, wounded in the arm, got into a taxi and disappeared. Three people died at his hands, and 12 more were injured.

As soon as the first sounds of shooting were heard in the city, the security unit of the European Parliament currently sitting in Strasbourg hastily sent out an SMS to all MEPs with a recommendation to stay indoors and not go out. The parliament building itself was temporarily closed.

On that tragic evening, the Renus sports arena, located near the European Parliament, hosted a basketball match between the local team and athletes from Ljubljana. Due to reports of shooting, over 5 thousand spectators were not allowed out of the building until one o'clock in the morning. Trying to calm the panic that gripped the stands, the center of the local team, Ali Traore, began to sing the song Petit Papa Noël. Minutes later, the stands answered him with “La Marseillaise” - in memory of the victims.

A dark day for the capital of Christmas

Already on Wednesday night, authorities qualified the incident as a terrorist attack. After an emergency meeting between French President Emmanuel Macron and representatives of the Ministry of Internal Affairs, the country announced an increase in the level of terrorist threat to the maximum. Enhanced border controls were introduced on the border with Germany, and the border German state of Baden-Württemberg also introduced additional security measures. The tram running between the two countries has been temporarily cancelled.

In Strasbourg itself, Wednesday has been declared a day of mourning. The mayor's office opened a book of condolences. National flags are flown at half-mast and all cultural and entertainment events are cancelled. The Christmas market, which in one evening turned from a symbol of Christmas into a symbol of tragedy, also closed.

There are a lot of police in the city. The flags were at half-mast, and at 11 am there was a minute of silence... Today I stayed at home with my son - the municipality of Strasbourg issued a statement that schools and kindergartens will be open and children can be brought, but there will be no lessons, and they will work rather in " after-school programs.” The University of Strasbourg, as I understand it, is open, but some private institutions canceled classes in the morning,” Russian Oksana, who has been living with her family in Strasbourg for the last four years, told Izvestia. - Of course, all this came as a huge shock, for some reason I always thought that this would bypass us. Sad and bitter.

Conspiracy Theory and Fiche S

Meanwhile, another story appeared in the blogosphere. It is still not clear whether another protest of the “yellow vests” will take place next Saturday, whose protests have already resulted in the deaths of five and the injuries of 1,407 people. Against this background, a rather marginal but persistent conspiracy theory is heard on the Facebook pages of protest movement activists. “Macron and the government are deliberately attempting to introduce a state of emergency to prevent the “yellow vests” from making a revolution,” one user expresses the suspicions of a number of French people.

Meanwhile, information appeared in the media that the terrorist - 29-year-old Sharif Shekat, presumably of Algerian origin - was already known to the local police. According to Le Monde, this native of Strasbourg was convicted in France and Germany in the past, but it is not known for what. Since then, he has been listed in the database as Fiche S, a designation for people who pose a threat to national security. According to BFM TV, the suspect was involved in local radical Islamist circles. And, Paris prosecutor Remy Heitz said at a news conference on Wednesday, witnesses heard the gunman shout "Allahu Akbar" before the attack.

On the morning of the fateful day, the gendarmes even tried to arrest Sharif Shekat, raiding his apartment in the southeast of Strasbourg with a warrant. They did not find the criminal himself at home, but they did find a number of grenades. After the terrorist attack he committed, the French police detained four relatives of the shooter.

It is extremely difficult to prevent such single terrorist attacks, even in countries with powerful anti-terrorism structures, if there is no advance information, Joseph Linder, president of the International Counter-Terrorism Association, told Izvestia.

For France, which experienced large-scale terrorist attacks in Nice and Paris, the tragedy in Strasbourg was the second such incident in 2018. In May, 20-year-old Khamzat Azimov, who has French citizenship, attacked passers-by with a knife in central Paris, killing one and injuring four before being shot dead by police.

In addition, following the events in Strasbourg, many remembered another “Christmas attack”: in 2016, a Tunisian, who was denied asylum in Germany, drove a truck into a crowd at a Christmas market in Berlin, killing 12 and injuring 56 people.

Then the Strasbourg authorities announced that they would not follow Berlin in closing their famous Christmas market: increased security measures around the fair were introduced two years before the incident in Berlin and will continue to be observed every Christmas season, the authorities promised in 2016. But, alas, it was not possible to save the capital of Christmas in 2018.

Hello, dear blog readers! Well, here I am at home. I still don’t understand what it was. It was as if I was pulled out of ordinary life, swirled in a whirlpool, and then brought back. Some kind of waking dream, by God. And this is how it all started.

On Thursday, November 22, I woke up with the thought that I wanted to see Atlantic Ocean. I really want it. I began to sort through my memory of the countries where I could go to look at the Atlantic. ... Brazil, Argentina... No, too early. I don't want to yet. Where, where, where?

Okay, stop! I firmly decided and forbade myself leave beyond the Moscow Ring Road in the next month or two! Work, work and work!!! Then “Portugal” flashed into my head. Either because B. was hanging around somewhere in that area, or because in the summer I constantly came across photos and reports from friends about their holidays in Portugal. Don't know. She forgot this thought and went about her business, planning to go to Vika in the evening.

Suddenly a few hours later the phone rang. Or rather, the call did not come suddenly; it was quite expected. “Suddenly” was a sentence voiced within a couple of minutes of conversation... -Madeira... -Is this Spain? -No, Portugal...-When? -In 2 days Hmmm... Atlantic Ocean at the end of November. Funny company... An island washed by waves on all sides... *(The most interesting thing is that the call came only because exactly a week before I had not received another call, I was even worried about it. Truly!)*

On Saturday evening I was already leaving home. Sleepy, with a suitcase beautiful dresses and in complete bewilderment, not fully realizing that all this was happening to me. It’s a pity that the dresses remained untouched due to the weather, but oh well.

So, as I already wrote in the last post, it snowed in Minsk at night, and we left for spring. First we flew to Germany, checked in, walked around, drank German beer, ate delicious food, and the next day we had to decide what to do, because the flight to Portugal was late at night.

It so happened that on the day of arrival, unbeknownst to me, we drove 200 km from Frankfurt and ended up on the border with France. No one had ever been to France before, so we decided to go to the young wine festival in Strasbourg.

All my adult life I was sure that Strasbourg was a German city, but no, France, as it turned out. There is no smell of a wine festival there, but preparations for Christmas are in full swing and Christmas markets.

Still, we tasted the wine. Real, French dry.

The Christmas trees at the Christmas market are fluffier than they sell here.

All over the city they sell various cool Santas, Christmas tree decorations and other cool trinkets for Christmas.

A few weeks ago I was walking through a park in Minsk and realized that I had never tried roasted chestnuts, but life was passing by. Then she picked several fruits from the trees, brought them home, and set them to ripen. True, it never came to frying. I can’t even fry potatoes, but here are chestnuts! And my friends said that nothing would work out - the chestnuts, you see, are not the same! And in France I finally tried roasted chestnuts. Fresh from the coals, everything is as it should be.

Since chestnuts were almost the only food that day, I can say that they are very nutritious. They fit perfectly under the screw.

Yes, even in Strasbourg at the Christmas markets they sell delicious mulled white wine with oranges for 2.5 euros. Glasses are deposited for 1 euro, then you can return the glass anywhere and take the money, but I kept it for myself as a souvenir.

Strasbourg is remembered for its conversations about fate and rain. I also learned that you don’t have to pay for parking, and nothing will happen for it, the main thing is to have a positive attitude. If I heard this B., I would probably faint. Strasbourg is very cozy. There are students everywhere, sitting on wet steps and munching on fast food. Multi-colored houses, cafes. Everything is exactly as it should be in France

Traditional French bakery

If real winter with snow has already arrived in Minsk, then in Strasbourg autumn is in full swing with yellow leaves and +13C.

Some French people still dress like it's freezing outside

Many houses in the center are decorated with toys, Christmas tree branches, gift boxes and other things. Almost every balcony has a Teddy bear or a happy Santa hanging on it. You can feel Christmas approaching everywhere.

In the center of Strasbourg, Santa Clauses with Arabic features play catchy music

All this time, of course, I was laughing. Loud and cheerful. It’s simply impossible not to laugh with the guys. I was afraid that by the end of the trip I would tear my stomach. There is still a lot I want to write and tell, but I can’t, because it would be too personal. I felt incredibly comfortable that day.

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It all started as usual - once I saw photos of summer Strasbourg on the Internet, and since then these stone pavements, half-timbered houses, small streets and flowers on the railings of embankments and bridges have haunted me. I wanted to go to this French town in the summer, so when ideas were generated for where to celebrate my birthday in early December, Strasbourg was initially rejected. Fortunately, knowledgeable people convinced that the capital of Alsace is no worse in winter - it’s not for nothing that this region in the north-east of France is rightly called “Capitale de Noël” - the Capital of Christmas. And, as it turned out, that’s exactly what it is!! A month before Christmas, the streets of Strasbourg are transformed.
The street Grand Rue, where our small hotel was located, leads to the main architectural miracle of the city - Strasbourg Cathedral (Straßburger Münster). Meanwhile, the guy on the train is counting his profits
At this magical time the city fills up festive garlands, lighting and decorations.
Numerous Christmas sales open in the central squares of the city, where large quantities products with holiday symbols are presented, and you can buy toys for yourself or as a gift. Or just wander around and gawk.
Stands with garlands, candles and glowing decorations
I wanted to buy myself a Christmas shovel, but I realized that they were unlikely to be allowed on the plane.
The streets are illuminated with numerous garlands, and the houses are illuminated with external lighting.
Another train with something obviously tasty
Rue des Orfèvres. Some streets make you walk with your mouth open in admiration.
And at Place Kléber, during this pre-holiday time, a tall Christmas tree grows, and every hour, from 17 to 21 pm (the time when it is already quite dark), a beautiful 15-minute light installation is held on the building located here.
I wonder how much the rooms cost in this hotel on Cathedral Square, overlooking the famous cathedral? Perhaps the price tag is high, although the place is noisy and very crowded.
And of course, in every square with Christmas sales you can taste delicious mulled wine, which is brewed right there on the spot. A hot mug of wine on a December evening is exactly what you need to warm up and restore strength during walks.
I must say that while walking around the city, mulled wine was consumed everywhere and constantly: here it turned out to be much tastier than in German Stuttgart. My French is very bad, remember the magic words: vin chaud - hot wine. Rouge - red. Blanc - white. You won't get lost. For a 0.2l mug they ask for about 2 euros, a large 0.4l mug - respectively 4 euros. When purchasing mulled wine, you must also leave a deposit of 2 euros per mug, which is refunded when the mug is returned. The mugs in Strasbourg are ceramic and very beautiful, I decided to keep one for myself and took it home. Give “Nothing Else Matters” in French!
Half-timbered houses are the subject of my constant admiration
In the markets you can choose Christmas decorations for every taste. These Christmas decorations, for example, occupied by owls
There are also extravagant Christmas tree decorations
But I'm a stickler for classic Christmas toys.
Well, here are these half-timbered houses again... I would walk and walk here
And on this street the houses changed color every minute. Now they are multi-colored, in a minute they will turn completely red, then blue, then purple and green.
Let's bring some positivity to this gloomy and gloomy post.
Mercier Street, leading to the Cathedral, is always crowded. But somehow I was returning home late at night and managed to photograph it almost empty. Strasbourg Cathedral, the world's tallest building for more than 200 years, is partially obscured by fog.
I am a stern, unshaven man, but I confess to you that these cute little cuties in the house captivate me and take me with their bare hands!! Just don’t tell the boys in the yard.
Book
The famous Vauban Dam glows ominously red at night.
Galeries Lafayette is also in festive attire.
Restaurants in Strasbourg. You can also sit outside - the evening temperature did not drop below plus five.
A month before Christmas, the city is filled with beauty.
December in Strasbourg is a magical time. And a place that seems to have stepped out of a fairy tale.

“He came in: and there was a cork in the ceiling,
The comet's fault flowed with current;
Before him roast-beef is bloody,
And truffles, the luxury of youth,
French cuisine has the best color,
And Strasbourg's pie is imperishable
Between live Limburg cheese
And golden pineapple"

A.S. Pushkin

Christmas markets are very popular in France and are almost mandatory for every resident of the country to visit. For a French person, not going to the Marché de Noël is like not watching “The Irony of Fate” again for a Russian.

And the most beautiful, recognized No. 1 in the country and the richest marché de Noël in France is Strasbourg.

Strasbourg Christmas Market attracts tourists on holidays no worse than Residents of all regions of the country, as well as near and far abroad, flock to the capital of Alsace to gawk at the variety of goods, the beauty of city decorations and festive illuminations, spend money and mill around in the crowd, scooping up handfuls of Have a good mood for the upcoming holidays.

Traditionally, the Strasbourg fair opens on the last weekend of November and closes on January 1.

What is the Strasbourg Christmas Market like?

Strasbourg fair is the oldest - these are traditions and history that began in 1570! These are more than 300 variously decorated and decorated shopping chalets located in 11 city squares.

These are tens of kilometers of garlands and tons of gingerbreads, cookies and sweets. That's 2 million tourists who leave 250 million euros in the city! This is, after all, the Christmas capital of France!

These are local gastronomic delights - choucroute, pork shank, dozens of types of sausages and sausages, meat dishes, a variety of pies and pies, pastries, pretzels and buns. In addition, throughout the Christmas market, you can taste local wines - Riesling, Pinot, Hurwitztraminer, as well as an indispensable winter drink vin chaud (hot wine).

Don't want to drink and snack in the fresh air? No problem - the city has a huge number of restaurants, cafes and bistros for every taste. But the most interesting ones are naturally those that serve typically Alsatian dishes. For example, l'Auberge de l'Ill, le Buerehiesel or le Crocodile. Just don’t forget to order the indispensable schnapps for the digestif, which can have dozens of flavor varieties and degrees of sweetness.

What about beer? Even the most notorious teetotalers will not be able to resist the pleasure of going to one of the many beer bars in the city and tasting a glass of the local foamy drink.

And now you are already full and slightly tipsy , it's time to take a walk along the city streets. Here, in many unexpected places, city guests are entertained by street orchestras and costumed performers; skits are performed in the squares or Christmas carols are performed. Spin me around, spin me around! But, be careful - the fair is just that: it is designed primarily to legally extract money from the wallets of tourists. Fortunately, such a variety of gifts, souvenirs and other beautiful and “much needed” things, trinkets and little things cannot be found anywhere else in France.

You should also not yawn for another reason - such fair events also attract unwanted, criminal elements to the city who want to collect their share from tourists, and therefore you should keep your pockets closed, do not carry a lot of cash with you and do not go through schnapps. And then, you know, anything can happen.

And finally, my helpful advice– try to avoid visiting Strasbourg on December weekends, since these are the days when Christmas markets are at their peak and there is nowhere for apples to fall in the city.

This year’s trip began to take shape in October and we did not consider other options besides Strasbourg, although we were there relatively recently - in the summer of 2015. But here I will not talk about the city itself (about it in another review), but will show the festive atmosphere that attracts millions of tourists to Alsace in general and to Strasbourg in particular every year.

We felt this when we started looking for accommodation options. I opened Booking and was horrified - on the 10th-20th of December the prices were simply astronomical - from 150 euros per night plus breakfast. Therefore, I had to move away from the holiday closer to November, and in the end I found an acceptable option for the period from November 30 to December 5 at the Adagio Access Strasbourg Petite France apart-hotel, which I had already checked on a previous trip - I will write about it separately. As a result, for 5 nights it turned out to be 740 euros with taxes. And the savings on breakfast are simply amazing. We cooked the same omelet with sausages in the room, and we bought cheese, ham, wine and sweets for tea, as well as excellent dishes for heating in the microwave “for pennies” at the nearest Carrefour store. In short - a great option. The hotel itself didn’t offer anything new, but it didn’t get any worse either. True, the room was on the “zero” floor with direct access to the courtyard, but this did not bother me at all.

Therefore, the first life hack of this story is to start preparing for your trip in December much in advance. Otherwise you will have to overpay. So we were lucky with the hotel.

But he still had to get to him. I again chose the option of flying with Lufthansa to Frankfurt and then by bus. In the summer, the period between the landing of the plane and the departure of the bus was almost an hour and a half, but in winter the schedule changed and I was offered 2 options - the bus would depart in 1 or 3.5 hours. I thought for a long time, even called the Lufthansa office with the question - will we make it in time? I was convinced that these options had been tested and tested many times, so there was nothing to be afraid of. And I, a fool, believed... Although, the weather intervened - it was on the night of November 30 that it snowed heavily in St. Petersburg and although we got to the airport easily (I ordered a taxi 6,000,000 for 4 in the morning and along the WHSD in 40 minutes and 1,120 rubles, everything went fine), but before the plane took off, we were sent for de-icing treatment and instead of 6.15 we took off only at 7 o’clock. True, in the air we almost compensated for this delay, but we still boarded 10 minutes later, then taxied around the airfield for a long time and went to the terminal by bus. Having jumped out first to passport control, we saw there a group of aggressive black women with children who were proving to the German border guards their right to enter the country, and they unanimously resisted. After wasting some more time waiting, we jumped out and headed, based on the experience of the previous trip, to get our luggage. We quickly saw a tape indicating our flight and were very happy when at 8.05 it started working and threw out several suitcases - but ours was not there. There were still 25 minutes left before the bus departed and I wasn’t too worried. But another 10 minutes passed, and our suitcase still did not appear. My wife began to worry and we decided that I should run to the bus and persuade the driver to wait for us, since we were registered for a specific flight. I ran to the bus and, together with another lady from our flight, persuaded the driver to wait for our luggage for at least 5 minutes, after which I rushed back (and this is a completely different terminal), but I couldn’t just get into the baggage claim hall - I had to run to bypass. The wife was close to hysterics, because the tape stopped, the luggage was taken away, and there was no prospect of our suitcase appearing. I found the employee in charge of luggage and said - where is our suitcase? He looked at the boarding pass and said: “Oh, are you going to Strasbourg? Your luggage must be collected in the railway station hall!”

Yoly-paly, this is next to the bus boarding point! I run there again and, indeed, I see - in the center of the hall there is a certain area fenced off with ribbons and our suitcase is just standing there! This is the place.