Ready pattern." class="img_anons" title="Pattern for a pencil skirt with reliefs and small slits in the seams.
Finished pattern.">!} Pattern an elegant narrow pencil skirt with small slits in the seams on the sides, back and middle front. Skirt length just below the knees looks best.
Style="float: right; margin: 0px 10px 10px;" title="Pattern for a pencil skirt with reliefs and small slits in the seams.
Finished pattern.">!}
There are two figured reliefs on the front and back panels of the skirt. This division of the skirt panels allows you, if desired, to combine fabrics of different colors and (or) textures. The zipper can be located as standard: at the top of the left side seam, or at the back in the middle seam. A skirt with a through fastener with a metal zipper in the side seam (you can even do it in both) or in the middle seam of the back panel of the skirt looks interesting. Experiment!
The skirt pattern is suitable for women with waist circumference 80cm and hip circumference 104cm. Skirt length 63 cm.
The skirt pattern is given without seam allowances.
Print out the pattern sheets and connect them according to the diagram. The pattern is the order in which the pattern sheets are connected. It is printed on the first sheet.
Be sure to check the scale for consistency. On a printed sheet with a 10x10 cm square depicted, sides of 10 cm should correspond to exactly 10 centimeters. To do this, in the printer settings, set the document print scale to 100% (no scaling).
Before cutting, double-check that your measurements match the pattern parameters.
Ready-made patterns are given for a conventionally typical figure. If your figure differs from the conventionally typical one, you should adjust the pattern taking into account the characteristics of your physique and only then start cutting.
Don't forget to give seam allowances, as well as additional allowances in those places where clarification is possible during fitting.
Having swept away the parts, try on the product, make all the necessary adjustments and start sewing.
The skirt can be either lined or unlined. The lining is cut according to the main parts.
For those who want to create a pattern for a specific figure based on the measurements taken, we have a detailed one. Having such a basic pattern, you can create a wide variety of skirt styles.
The relief starts from the side seam on the back panel of the skirt, goes to the most protruding part of the buttocks, and then takes a vertical direction (Fig. 196).
Rice. 196
On a copy of the base pattern for the back panel of the skirt, draw a relief line according to the model (Fig. 197).
Rice. 197
If desired, the relief can be positioned slightly higher or lower, to the right or to the left of the base dart. In this case, you need to draw a relief line, then move the base dart so that its end is on the vertical relief line (the dashed horizontal line shows how much shorter the dart is made).
Cut the pattern along the inclined line of the relief to notch A and, having closed the base dart, continue the cut to the bottom line (Fig. 198).
Rice. 198
Skirt with front yoke
The yoke line on the front of the skirt runs through the ends of the darts (Fig. 199). Transfer the front of the skirt from the base pattern without darts and draw a yoke in accordance with the model: 4 cm below the waist line along the side cut line and 15 cm along the middle front line.
Rice. 199
Transfer two or three darts from the base pattern to the new pattern, placing them closer to the side cut line (Fig. 200). Then change their length so that they end at the yoke line (the ends of the warp dart lines are marked with horizontal dashed lines).
Rice. 200
Cut off the yoke and close the darts, bringing their sides closer together, but not overlapping each other (Fig. 201). The reduced length of the darts does not spoil the appearance of the yoke and provides the necessary convexity of the skirt in this place.
Rice. 201
If the lines of the darts are straight, then they are completely closed (Fig. 202). Such darts are used on very soft fabrics or knitwear.
Rice. 202
Skirt with tails from the waistline
The model of this skirt is shown in Fig. 203. Let's look at their construction on the front panel of the skirt (the construction on the back panel is similar).
Rice. 203
On the drawing of the front of the skirt, which does not indicate darts, draw lines parallel to the middle of the front, dividing the pattern into equal stripes, and number them (Fig. 204).
Rice. 204
Distribute the depth of the main dart between all the slits and the mid-front line and draw slightly convex dart lines approximately 8 cm long.
Cut the copy of the pattern into strips and cut out the darts. Extend the skirt as indicated below.
There may be three options for expanding the skirt. The amount of expansion depends on the type of fabric, silhouette and fashion.
Once the darts are closed, continue spreading the stripes until you get the desired extension of the skirt at the bottom. Along the lines of the middle front and side cut, also add half a tail.
On the patterns of the skirt drawings, mark the direction of the longitudinal (or oblique) thread. In addition, if the model does not have a seam along the middle line, you must indicate the fold of the fabric (the middle of the front is solid lobar or oblique).
Skirt with two seams at the front
The shape of the skirt shown in Fig. 207, the same as the previous one, but its pattern construction is different.
Rice. 207
Determine on the figure at what distance from the middle of the front the seams should be located, and draw the seam lines parallel to the middle of the front (Fig. 208). The position and direction of the seam in a flared skirt should be consistent with the location and shape of the dart.
Rice. 208
On both sides of the cut line, draw dart lines for the base if its opening is not too large. For some figures, a dart 3-3.5 cm deep is required in this place on the front of the skirt, but this is extremely rare.
Therefore, it is better to limit the tuck depth to approximately 2 cm. In this case, transfer the remainder of the tuck opening to the middle of the side wedge, as shown in Fig. 208.
Cut the pattern along the marked line, transfer both parts of the front of the skirt to another sheet of paper and widen the skirt (Fig. 209).
Rice. 209
Set aside half of the extension (8 cm for example) from the cut line. Draw a straight line through the resulting point, tangent to the cut line. Correct the bottom line of the skirt as shown in Fig. 209.
The grain of the fabric should run through the middle of the wedge.
The back panel of the skirt is cut out in the same way as the front panel, in the form of a wide wedge without a seam in the middle (as for a six-seam skirt).
The dart on the back panel can, if necessary, be placed entirely in the cut line, but you can also transfer part of the solution to the middle of the side wedge, as shown in Fig. 210.
Rice. 210
If the expansion is given on each wedge of the model, you can connect the side sections of the back and front panels of the skirt. In this case, the side seam is excluded.
You can also connect the side sections of the back and front panels of the skirt without expanding them.
If the back panel of the skirt has a seam in the middle, make a small dart in it along the waistline and make an extension equal to one-third of the tail. The reduction is made because the coattails always seem larger here (Fig. 211).
Rice. 211
Bell-shaped skirt
The expansion of the skirt at the seams begins low (Fig. 212). A skirt of this shape can be obtained by making it from at least four wedges.
Rice. 212
Transfer the drawing of the skirt from Fig. onto a sheet of paper. 208.
Slightly below the middle of the length, indicate the beginning of the expansion of the skirt (Fig. 213).
Rice. 213
Cut the pattern along the dashed line and transfer it to another sheet of paper.
Add half an extension to each part along the bottom line (for example, 4 cm).
Connect the resulting points with inclined solid lines with the existing notches (Fig. 214).
Rice. 214
Skirt made of narrow stripes, widened at the bottom
Using the same principle, you can make patterns for the model shown in Fig. 215. A group of strips is usually placed in the area between the warp darts on both the back and front panels of the skirt.
Rice. 215
On the pattern of the front panel, draw two parallel lines at a distance of 5 cm from one another and draw two small concave darts (Fig. 216).
Rice. 216
Draw one strip separately, indicate the direction of the grain thread and add half a fold of the required size on each side at the required height. Draw a bottom line as indicated above (solid line). The dashed line indicates that the half-tail can be the size of a quarter circle. The second strip is drawn in exactly the same way.
On the back panel of the skirt, the stripes appear wider at the waist than at the hip line. This visual distortion is caused by the convexity of the figure in the buttock area. Therefore, in order to maintain the appearance of parallelism of the stripes, they need to be slightly narrowed along the waist line.
Draw two lines at a distance of 5 cm from one another on the pattern of the back panel of the skirt, as shown in Fig. 217. On each line, mark the level of the end of the base dart and build darts with a solution equal to 0.6 cm. This value is sufficient for the normal convexity of the hips. The size of the dart opening can be determined by fitting.
Rice. 217
Measure on the pattern how much the length of the waistline has decreased (in the example by 1-2 cm), subtract this value from the size of the base dart solution and add the remainder to the side strip.
Flared skirt with patches
The model of this skirt is shown in Fig. 218.
Rice. 218
On the straight skirt pattern, draw a pata line and an expansion line parallel to the middle of the front (Fig. 219).
Rice. 219
Transfer both parts of the skirt to separate sheets of paper and widen it, starting from the bottom edge of the pata (Fig. 220, the width of the half-fold is 5 cm).
Rice. 220
To make fitting easier, mark the location of the patch on the side of the skirt. Also draw the slightly concave lines of the skirt dart. Notches marked with a cross are needed to accurately connect the parts of the skirt.
On the patch, mark the location of the button and loop. Use dashes to mark the finishing stitch to position the button correctly.
To make the expansion more significant, you should make a pattern for a flared skirt (see Fig. 205), attach the resulting pattern to the figure and mark the pattern and cut line.
Skirt with spiral relief
In this skirt (Fig. 221), the asymmetrical hem continues continuously from the front to the back panel of a straight or flared skirt.
Rice. 221
First, determine the shape of the main lines of the skirt: curved, semi-curved, straight.
Select the appropriate base pattern. If the dress with such a skirt has a fitted silhouette, choose darts or relief that better suit the model.
If the skirt is loose, cut the auxiliary pattern along the waistline to make it easier to convert the straight skirt into a loose skirt, and then match both pieces.
If the texture of the skirt must match the relief of the bodice, match both parts along the waistline after closing the darts (thin dashed lines) on them.
To draw an asymmetrical relief, you need to complete the left and right parts of the skirt pattern and the back, if the relief continues on the back.
Move the left and right parts of the front panel of the skirt (see Fig. 205).
Make a pattern for the back panel of the skirt, forming the same extension on it.
Close the darts and connect both parts of the skirt along the side lines.
Draw the relief as shown in Fig. 222 (or vice versa). Lay the pattern on a plane and refine the drawing.
Rice. 222
In the example, the terrain is inclined from left to top and to the right. But it can also be the other way around.
Skirt with undercut and gathers
The back panel of the skirt is trimmed with a flared detail, which is slightly gathered along the hem (Fig. 223). This is one of the ways that gives freedom of movement with a long straight skirt.
Rice. 223
Sometimes such a detail is cut out in the form of a train. On the pattern of the back panel of the skirt (with one or two darts), draw an inclined and then a vertical cutting line. Divide the part into strips 1, 2 and 3 (Fig. 224).
Rice. 224
Before cutting the numbered strips, you need to draw a line perpendicular to the direction in which the gathers fall. For a part of small height, as in the example, such a line is the bottom line.
Cut the numbered strips. Place them on another sheet of paper and, focusing on the horizontal line, move the strips apart so as to obtain the necessary expansion for the assemblies (Fig. 225, a). Mark clearly the middle of each strip at the top with small vertical lines and mark the height of the strips with the letters A and O.
Rice. 225
Draw a new top line, connecting points A and O with a straight line passing through the marked midpoints of the strips (Fig. 225, b).
It is easier to draw an upper inclined line by connecting two vertical lines marking the different heights of the part.
Divide this part into strips of the same width (Fig. 225, c), cut along the marked lines and expand the lower part, as shown in Fig. 225, g.
Skirt extended below the waistline
The expansion of the skirt at a distance of 8-10 cm below the waist (Fig. 226) is achieved by performing gatherings.
Rice. 226
These types of skirts are complemented by petticoats specially designed for each skirt.
On a piece of fabric, determine the required size of the dart opening (for this model, 7-8 cm x 2 + 2-3 cm for the bulge along the side seam is enough).
From the overall result obtained, subtract the size of the main dart opening and expand the base pattern by the missing amount (Fig. 227, a), guided by the technique for obtaining folds.
Rice. 227
Determine the desired width of the skirt at the bottom and make appropriate changes to the pattern (Fig. 227, b).
Mark the darts and relief in accordance with the model. Close the resulting darts, attach the pattern to the figure and refine it.
Semi-sun skirt
The pattern of such a skirt is a semicircle. Make a quarter circle for the front and back panels of the skirt (Fig. 228).
Rice. 228
Using the base pattern, measure the length of the waistline of the front and back panels and subtract the size of the base dart opening. Multiply each of the resulting measurements by two to obtain the width of each panel (the pattern is constructed using the entire figure).
If both panels of the skirt are the same, then it is enough to divide the waist circumference measurement in half (for a dress - the pattern measurement, for a separate skirt - the measurement taken from the figure).
Start with the back panel. Using the measurement taken, draw a quarter of a circle (Fig. 229).
Rice. 229
Let the width of the back panel of the skirt along the waist line be 15, and the front panel - 17.5 cm. Divide 15 by 3.1 and multiply the resulting number by two to get the radius of the quarter circle (for example, 4.8 x 2 = 9.6 cm ).
Use a rectangle to construct a right angle. From the top of the right angle, mark a quarter of a circle with a compass, the arc of which will be the waist line (see Fig. 228).
As an extension of the radius, set aside a segment equal to the length of the skirt (for example, 25 cm). With a radius of 9.6 + 15 cm, draw a line for the bottom of the skirt.
For the front panel (front) of the skirt, do the same calculations (17.5: 3.1 = 5.6 cm; 5.6 x 2 = 11.2 cm). In Fig. 229 dashed lines show the pattern for the front of the skirt.
When constructing both parts of the pattern on one sheet of paper, as in Fig. 229, use a colored pencil for one of the panels of the skirt.
Sun cut skirts
For a sun-cut skirt, draw a full circle (half a circle for the front panel of the skirt and half a circle for the back panel).
Follow the drawing as for a half-sun skirt.
To draw the waist line using the measurements taken, you need to determine the radius. To do this, just divide the required waist measurement by 3.1 (for example, for the back panel of a skirt 15: 3.1 = 4.8 cm).
Draw a straight line and mark the length of the skirt on it (Fig. 230). From the end of the side cut line, set aside a radius and draw a waist line for the back panel of the skirt (solid line).
Rice. 230
Then, taking into account the length of the skirt, draw a line for the bottom of the back panel (solid line).
The front lines are drawn with strokes.
Skirt cut “sun” from several semicircles. To get a skirt wider than a full circle, it is enough to divide the waist circumference by the number of semicircles that the fashion requires, and draw a drawing according to the resulting measurement. For example, for a skirt of four semicircles with a waist circumference of 64 cm, you need to first divide 64 by four, and then the resulting value by 3.1 (to determine the radius).
Gathered sun-cut skirt. The width of such a skirt at the waist is greater than the waist circumference, by the amount necessary for gathering. For a tulle skirt, the width of the skirt along the waist lines is 2-4 times greater than the waist circumference.
Divide the waist measurement (including gathering allowance) by the number of half-circles you want and draw as explained earlier.
The shape and large surface of the resulting pattern cause some difficulties in cutting the skirt.
In Fig. 231 shows three options for the arrangement of pattern parts on striped fabric. Method of cutting a skirt according to fig. 231,b is the most economical. For striped fabrics, cutting according to Fig. 231, v.
Rice. 231
The location of the seams depends on the model. To imagine the placement of the strips along the seams, transfer the strips of fabric onto the pattern and connect the parts of the pattern. If the fabric is significantly narrower than the skirt, separate the part of the pattern that does not decrease in width of the fabric (take into account the width of the edge), and move it along the length of the fabric, maintaining the same direction of the warp threads (Fig. 232).
Rice. 232
Cut out the part of the pattern that does not fit, leaving a margin for the seam along a straight line, and coordinate this part along the seam with the second part of the pattern. The location of this seam greatly affects the appearance of the skirt. You can make either vertical seams in the middle of the part (see Fig. 231, b), or extension parts (see Fig. 231, c).
The purpose of the lesson: familiarize students with methods of modeling straight skirts; teach how to model a skirt of the chosen style.
Tools and accessories: scissors, ruler, pencil, glue, album sheets, straight skirt templates in 1:4 m.
Visual aids: posters with models of various skirts, samples of various skirts.
During the classes
I. Organizational moment.
- Checking student attendance.
- Checking readiness for the lesson.
- Organization of the workplace.
- Distributing task cards.
- Conducting induction training.
II. Repetition of covered material.
1. Mark the correct answers with a “+” sign.
On which side of a person's figure are measurements taken?
on the left
on the right
How are measurements taken?
ruler
compass
measuring tape
How should you stand when taking measurements?
leaning forward slightly
straight (at attention)
bending one leg at the knee
sucking in my stomach
Why is a belt tied at the waist when taking measurements?
to clarify the position of the hip line
to divide the figure into “top” and “bottom”
to clarify the position of the waist line
Write down the name of the measurements according to the conventions.
1) St_________________________________________________
2) Dst________________________________________________
3) Sat_________________________________________________
4) Di_________________________________________________
Which of these measurements are needed to determine the length of the product?
Dst
St
Di
Sat
Which of these measurements are needed to determine the width of the product?
Dst
St
Di
Sat
III. Main part.
In order to sew a skirt of various styles, it is necessary to make changes to the finished pattern, i.e. perform simulation. In this case, the drawing of the base of the skirt can be cut anywhere, but be sure to maintain the width of the product along the waist line and the length.
Modeling is the creative process of creating new models.
Modeling is divided into artistic and technical. Artistic modeling is carried out by fashion designers, creating sketches of models. Technical modeling is carried out by design artists, creating models from sketches based on the basic design.
The main modeling techniques are:
- Translation of darts
- Changing the position of the main structural lines.
- Separating parts of a garment to change the degree of fit.
- Formation of a new cut by composing parts of the structural foundations.
Based on the drawing of a straight skirt, you can model a huge number of skirt styles: narrow and wide, long and short, with yokes in the back and front, with slits and folds of various shapes. The construction of the drawing of the straight skirt was carried out in such a way that drawings of two parts were obtained at once: the front and rear panels. For modeling, these parts need to be separated (cut), since each part is modeled separately.
Extension of the skirt along the bottom line.
On the drawing of the front and rear panels, from the side cut line, mark the required expansion along the bottom line (5-7 cm). Then connect the resulting points H 1 and H 2 with the lines of the side dart.
Tapering of the skirt along the hemline.
In the drawing of the front and rear panels from the side cut side, reduce the width of the skirt along the bottom line by the desired amount (H 3 and H 4). Then connect points H 3 and H 4 with points B 2 and B 2 on the hip line. Cut off excess parts of the pattern.
Changing the length of the skirt.
Most often, the length of a skirt from maxi to mini is determined by fashion. For freedom of movement, women's long skirts are made with slits, slots, and fasteners.
Extensions of a straight skirt using the method of closing darts.
Very comfortable to wear slightly widened straight skirt. This expansion can be easily achieved by closing the darts on the base of the straight skirt.
Draw vertical lines along the center lines of the front and back panels of the skirt until they intersect with the bottom line and cut the patterns along these lines.
Pull apart the patterns at the bottom until the dart is completely closed.
Extension of a straight skirt using partial closure of the dart and an additional slit.
If the skirt expands significantly, you can make additional vertical cuts on the panels, which will make the expansion more uniform.
Along the axial lines of the darts of the front and rear panels, as well as through the middles of segments B 6 B 2 and B 2 B 7, draw vertical straight lines until they intersect with the bottom line.
Cut the patterns along the marked lines and unfold the resulting parts to the desired width.
Create a smooth curve for the bottom line.
Modeling a skirt with a yoke.
Coquettes in skirts are widely used. They ensure a more precise fit of the skirt on the figure, especially when making a skirt made of thick fabric. The constructive lines of the yoke make the skirt more elegant.
Visually lengthens the figure. The yoke can be on both the front and back panels, or on both panels at once.
When modeling, the yoke line can be a straight, curved or broken line, which, as a rule, passes through the end of the dart. If the yoke line is located above the end of the dart, then its upper part is closed, and the part of the dart remaining on the panel is included in reliefs, folds and other design lines. If the yoke line is located below the end of the dart, then it is either kept or extended to the yoke line and then closed.
Through the end of the dart of the front (or back) panel, draw a straight line for the yoke A B.
Cut the pattern along this line and fold the yoke from the cut off upper parts, closing the dart. Decorate the upper and lower sections of the yoke with a smooth line.
Now let's look at how these and some other methods of modeling skirts are used on specific styles.
Model 1. Skirt, widened at the bottom, with a yoke in the front.
Model 2. Skirt with a yoke and a counter pleat at the front.
- Draw a straight yoke line through the end of the dart.
- Cut off the yoke and close the dart. Decorate the upper and lower sections of the yoke with smooth lines.
- Draw straight lines parallel to the line in the middle of the front panel, indicating the depth of the opposite fold. Complete the pattern at the top of the fold, as shown in the figure.
Counter folds are those in which on the front side the folds of the fabric are directed towards each other, and on the back side - in different directions.
The counter fold is marked on the wrong side of the fabric with three lines:
a) midline – inflection line,
b) lateral line;
c) a line that defines the end of the stitching.
The fold allowance is equal to the depth of one fold multiplied by 4.
Model 3. Skirt with pockets and pleats at the front.
- On the drawing of the front panel, draw a line for entering the pocket (K 1 K 2), a line for the depth of the pocket (K 3 K 4) and a line for the beginning of the folds (ab).
- Cut the drawing along the line of entry into the pocket (K 3 K 4), the line of the beginning of the folds (ab) and along the vertical line of the axis of the dart.
- Construct a drawing of the burlap pocket (K 1 K 2 K 3 K 4). Complete the side part of the front panel of the skirt with a section (K 1 K 2 K 3 K 4).
- Construct part of the pattern with folds, having previously made a layout from paper.
IV. The final part of the lesson.
- Control over the quality of assimilation of new material.
- Evaluation of the test task.
V. Homework.
- Draw sketches of the styles of the skirt you would like to sew.
- Bring to the next lesson: paper, ruler, pencils, textbook, workbook.
The ability to model allows you to sew several completely different skirts using one pattern option. If you love to dance, then the patterns of gypsy and Spanish skirts will allow you to sew your own outfit for performances. And if you just follow fashion, or prefer your own, purely individual style, then this section will help you always look fashionable and stylish. Moreover, using this skill, you can sew an exclusive dress. There are many styles of skirts: godet, flared, sun, pleated, pleated, Scottish, spiral, mini, midi, maxi, and skirt patterns will allow you to realize any designer's fantasies. Below are very interesting and practical options for skirt patterns: straight skirt patterns, “Godet” skirt patterns, “Sun” skirt patterns, straight skirt patterns with a flyaway cape, wrap skirt patterns, skirt patterns with a frilled mould, skirt patterns with an undercut and drapery etc. which are easy to sew and pleasant to wear.
Taking measurements
In mass sewing production, ready-made tables are used to create pattern drawings, which contain measurements of the necessary parameters of typical figures. For individual tailoring, the use of such tables is inappropriate, since more accurate and detailed data is required: Another system is used here - calculation and measurement, which is based on measuring distances between certain points of the human body. These distances are called measures.
To take measurements, you must have a measuring tape, a pencil and a notebook. In this case, it is necessary to comply with certain requirements: the person from whom measurements are taken must stand relaxed, with a straight posture and arms down along the body; the legs should be brought together at the heels, and the toes should be slightly turned outward (with the slightest deviation to the sides, the measurements may turn out to be inaccurate); When measuring measurements, the centimeter tape should not be tightened or, conversely, loosened; In order to eliminate distortion of readings, it is advisable to take measurements using underwear.
Remember! The accuracy of the pattern drawing and, consequently, the appearance of the product you sew depends on the correctness and accuracy of the measurements you take.
However, that's not all.
To draw a skirt drawing, you need to take into account what type of physique your figure belongs to. If you have a standardly built figure (smoothly wavy back, position of the protruding points of the shoulder blades and buttocks at the same level relative to the vertical, moderate notch of the waist and protrusion of the buttocks, normal hip width), then to draw a drawing of the skirt you need the following measurements
Straight two-seam skirt
Despite the variety of this or that skirt, the straight two-seam one is the basis for constructing many models. This skirt exists perfectly as an independent product and as an integral part of many costumes. It is not without reason that it is one of the classic models and therefore has rightfully been at the peak of fashion for several decades. It is suitable for women of any age category, and will also be appropriate for both special occasions and everyday wear. This skirt can be sewn from almost any type of fabric. However, it is not recommended to sew it from checkered fabrics, since adjusting such a pattern is quite difficult. If you decide to sew a skirt made of striped fabric, then when cutting it is necessary to maintain the symmetry of the pattern on the front and back panels. A straight two-seam skirt without widening at the bottom will look a little narrowed. Therefore, it is not recommended for women with low hips.
BUILDING A DRAWING OF THE CONSTRUCTION OF A STRAIGHT DOUBLE-SEAM SKIRT
To construct a drawing (Fig. 14), the following measurements of the figure are necessary: waist circumference (Wt), hip circumference (C6) and product length (L) - And you also need to know the amount of increase for a loose fit along the waist line (Wt) and line hips (P6). For all sizes they are equal:
Fri = 0.7-1.0 cm, Pb = 1.5-2.0 cm.
In what follows, we will call the necessary measurements and additions “initial data.”
For convenience of construction and calculations, we will take the measurements of a typical figure; St = 38 cm, Se = 52 cm, Dt = 75 cm.
We construct a right angle with the vertex at point T. The segment TN corresponds to the length of the skirt and is the middle of the front panel. The segment TB determines the position of the hip line and is equal to 13.5-19.5 cm. We draw lines through the obtained points B and H perpendicular to the straight line TN. From point B along the hip line we lay off a segment equal to the measurement of the half-circumference of the hips (C6) plus an increase for a loose fit along the hips (Pb), and place point B1
BB 1 = C6 + Pb = 52 + 2 = 54 cm.
Through point B 1, draw a vertical line until it intersects with the waist line at point T1 and the bottom line at point H1. This straight line is the middle of the rear panel. From point B to the right along the hip line we put BB2
BB 2 = BB1/2 - 1 = TT2 = NN2
Through point B 2 we draw a vertical line until it intersects with the waist line at point T2 and the bottom line at point H2.
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